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View Full Version : Help on 4 Linking a YJ



DiGGeR
05-11-2009, 12:30 PM
I'm in the process of building my YJ, I was going to do a SOA, but after careful consideration, I decided just to link it up. I have a set of '86 waggy D44's sitting in my garage, 5.38's, Flattop steering knuckles, Now I need to start buying my rodends, inserts, brackets, and DOM tubing. Money is the slowing factor in this build, so I'll have to buy it as i can afford it! What size of rodend do I need for a link bar for a YJ? I was thinking 7/8" (threaded end) but 3/4" is half the price?
I will also be needing anybodys advice or opinion on the setup. I have my idea of how I want to do the back, and have absolutley no idea how to do the front.
Please post away with all suggestions!

dan58
05-11-2009, 12:43 PM
Leave the front SOA. It's a great combo. Ask the guys who finished #1 and #2 in Class 3 of the first RCRocs. ;)

www.claytonoffroad.com (http://www.claytonoffroad.com) and www.polyperformance.com (http://www.polyperformance.com) both have nice kits. If you want to pick and chose, www.ballisticfabrication.com (http://www.ballisticfabrication.com) has everything you'll need. I would highly suggest going with 1" heims like these for lowers. Use 7/8 on the uppers.

http://www.ballisticfabrication.com/QA1-_c_125.html

And here is a finished product using those joints (he used 1.25" shank for the lowers):

http://mdcreepers.com/mcforums/showthread.php?t=157

2002wranglerX
05-11-2009, 03:26 PM
Leave the front SOA. It's a great combo. Ask the guys who finished #1 and #2 in Class 3 of the first RCRocs. ;)

www.claytonoffroad.com (http://www.claytonoffroad.com) and www.polyperformance.com (http://www.polyperformance.com) both have nice kits. If you want to pick and chose, www.ballisticfabrication.com (http://www.ballisticfabrication.com) has everything you'll need. I would highly suggest going with 1" heims like these for lowers. Use 7/8 on the uppers.

http://www.ballisticfabrication.com/QA1-_c_125.html

And here is a finished product using those joints (he used 1.25" shank for the lowers):

http://mdcreepers.com/mcforums/showthread.php?t=157

that's how my TJ is. SOA front and 4 link rear.

extremely stable.

MF Steve!
05-11-2009, 03:58 PM
Don't cheap out on the joints. Piss on Heims, especially if you plan on any steet driving in PA. Salt will kill them. Johnny Joints are rebuildable and very street friendly.

Go Johnny Joints of the 2.5" variety with the forged 1 1/4" diameter stud. 2" x 2" x 1/4" wall square tubing for the lower link material.

2" Johnny Joints for the upper arms w/ 1.5" square tube for the link material.

That'd be my suggestion.

dan58
05-11-2009, 04:48 PM
Don't cheap out on the joints. Piss on Heims, especially if you plan on any steet driving in PA. Salt will kill them. Johnny Joints are rebuildable and very street friendly.

Go Johnny Joints of the 2.5" variety with the forged 1 1/4" diameter stud. 2" x 2" x 1/4" wall square tubing for the lower link material.

2" Johnny Joints for the upper arms w/ 1.5" square tube for the link material.

That'd be my suggestion.

The man has good advice. A broken link can make for some serious extraction work too. If you are going to a decent street ride, Clayton's stuff will serve you well because he runs a JJ on the axle end and bushings on the frame side. The new Ballistic joint is pretty pimp if you want to go with them.

I'm a fan of 7075 links, but the square stock will serve you well (and probably save some green in your wallet).

DiGGeR
05-17-2009, 09:02 PM
Thanks for all the help on this guys!

I've noticed that its popular to entend the wheelbase in the rear a few inches, since I'm already replacing everthing in the back, should I consider doing an extension aswell?

trailerrails
05-18-2009, 08:37 AM
Thanks for all the help on this guys!

I've noticed that its popular to entend the wheelbase in the rear a few inches, since I'm already replacing everthing in the back, should I consider doing an extension aswell?

Depending on how far back you go, you will run into issues with the fuel tank. That is one of the reasons mine is behind my front seats now.

dan58
05-18-2009, 02:13 PM
Thanks for all the help on this guys!

I've noticed that its popular to entend the wheelbase in the rear a few inches, since I'm already replacing everthing in the back, should I consider doing an extension aswell?

Absolutely. Stretch it at least 5" in the back. Do some research on the legality of a fuel cell, or just get the GenRight tank.

FYI, Ballistic Fab now has a sweet rebuildable heim joint.

CESCO
05-18-2009, 02:43 PM
I just got some of Ballastic Fab joints in about a month ago.. they are pretty sweet, I was a little disappointed with the customer service but it worked out. I am going to using them in a triangulated rear set up.

gonecheenin
05-19-2009, 06:34 PM
I pushed my front axle forward 5"s & the rear back 1.5 (basically just installed 48" springs to maximize my shackle angle)

Works VERY well at it's now 101" WB & doesn't have any issues with tank location or hacking out the wheel wells

Mac5005
05-27-2009, 06:31 PM
Don't Buy Currie johnnie Joints, they are cheap junk made in China. Buy something made in the USA, for example Ballistic Joints or something of that nature.

What engine are you running? What tire size are you going to run?

I would stay away from heim joints on the road, but If you are staying fairly mild, (for instace, not going to tons) you can save money with heims, and if you aren't running much horsepower and less than 39" tall tires you can definitely get away with 3/4 heims.

I'm still SOA all the way around with tons, but I'm linking the rear soon. I have all the parts already. I'm running a mix of Trail Gear joints, and ballistic Joints. 2.375" OD, .375 wall DOM lowers, sleeved with 2.5" 1.20" wall toob. I'm going to run 1.75 .250 wall uppers. But I'm also running 42"s with a 300hp stroker. I'm running 1.25" shank lower joints, and the upper joints are getting welded to the toob.

DiGGeR
06-03-2009, 12:54 PM
What engine are you running? What tire size are you going to run?

2.5L, most likely 35's. I truely would like 37's but 5.38's aren't low enough for my taste to pull them. I enjoy being able to use all 5 gears! Also D44's aren't really strong enough to handle the 37's without worry, and to top it off I am going to run Nitto Mud Graplpers and they don't come in 37's they due make 38's but thats just more problems going bigger with a 2.5L! I'm sure some of you will disagree my opinion. I'm just trying to make a rig thats driveable after a day of wheel'n.
http://i607.photobucket.com/albums/tt154/DiGGeR77/Nittotire.jpg
I've been considering keeping leafs in the back and stretching it 5" using SUA. Its the whole track arm for state inspection that makes me wanta go to linking it up.

trailerrails
06-03-2009, 04:34 PM
2.5L, most likely 35's. I truely would like 37's but 5.38's aren't low enough for my taste to pull them. I enjoy being able to use all 5 gears! Also D44's aren't really strong enough to handle the 37's without worry, and to top it off I am going to run Nitto Mud Graplpers and they don't come in 37's they due make 38's but thats just more problems going bigger with a 2.5L! I'm sure some of you will disagree my opinion. I'm just trying to make a rig thats driveable after a day of wheel'n.
http://www.pgh-offroad.com/forum/%5BIMG%5Dhttp://i607.photobucket.com/albums/tt154/DiGGeR77/Nittotire.jpg%5B/IMG%5Dhttp://www.pgh-offroad.com/forum/%3Ca%20href=%22http://s607.photobucket.com/albums/tt154/DiGGeR77/?action=view&current=Nittotire.jpg%22%20target=%22_blank%22%3E% 3Cimg%20src=%22http://i607.photobucket.com/albums/tt154/DiGGeR77/Nittotire.jpg%22%20border=%220%22%20alt=%22Nitto%2 0Mud%20Grappler%22%3E%3C/a%3Ehttp://i607.photobucket.com/albums/tt154/DiGGeR77/Nittotire.jpg
I've been considering keeping leafs in the back and stretching it 5" using SUA. Its the whole track arm for state inspection that makes me wanta go to linking it up.

I run dana 44's with 37" boggers and don't worry. I never broke any axles. I did break a couple u-joints that in turn ruined axles. I have since went to alloys all the way around. With the 2.5 you don't have enough power to do much damage. I am also running 4.88 grears.