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View Full Version : Any suggestions on YJ full skidplates



jeep-freak92
06-03-2009, 09:40 PM
i really wanna armor the bottem of my 92 yj and and not really sure of what all i can cover with out it rubbing if anyone has pictures or anything they would be greatly apreciated or even just advice of what to avoid

mxracer513
06-03-2009, 10:12 PM
Here's some to start you thinkin


http://i197.photobucket.com/albums/aa311/mxer513/skid%20plates/img0310ja9.jpg

http://i197.photobucket.com/albums/aa311/mxer513/skid%20plates/img0314uv6.jpg

http://i197.photobucket.com/albums/aa311/mxer513/skid%20plates/img0431hp2.jpg

http://i197.photobucket.com/albums/aa311/mxer513/skid%20plates/img0728cu5.jpg

http://i197.photobucket.com/albums/aa311/mxer513/skid%20plates/rool4lt6.jpg

gonecheenin
06-04-2009, 04:43 AM
No production flat belly or high clearance engine skids available from what I've seen

My plan is to build a tubular trans x-member, then build my own high clearance skids to attach to that with zero bolt heads hanging down to hang anything up in the rocks. (I'll make all the bols run horizontally off of vertical tabs or vertically from top down to weld nuts)

dan58
06-04-2009, 07:00 AM
Teraflex makes a bellyup:
http://www.quadratec.com/products/16192_000.htm

So does AEV:
http://www.quadratec.com/products/16500_108_07.htm

Then add a Skid Row engine skid:
http://www.quadratec.com/products/12529_102.htm

Top off with a Kilby gas tank skid or their belly and engine skid:
http://www.kilbyenterprises.com/tb-jeep-yj.htm

And then get some AtoZFabrication rocker guards (made here in PA, by a fellow wheeler and great guy).

I'm sure prices can be had cheaper though.

gonecheenin
06-04-2009, 08:41 AM
Teraflex makes a bellyup:
http://www.quadratec.com/products/16192_000.htm

So does AEV:
http://www.quadratec.com/products/16500_108_07.htm



huh, must have ignored those since they still used the rock snagging lower frame rail bolts

dan58
06-04-2009, 01:35 PM
huh, must have ignored those since they still used the rock snagging lower frame rail bolts

If you get stopped by a bolt head on a belly up skid, it may be time to re-evaluate your tire choice and driving skills.

They sure are a heck of a lot better than the stock skid, which the OP asked to do.

gonecheenin
06-04-2009, 01:38 PM
If you get stopped by a bolt head on a belly up skid, it may be time to re-evaluate your tire choice and driving skills.

Before I over react to your statement, are you taking another Dan58 style shot at me, or are you referring to a change in hardware on the belly up setups?

All I know is that all the hardware utilized on the bottom of the frame or skids, on any of the rigs I've had past or present, were all seriously mangled up by the end of a wheeling season.

And if competition guys think that using super slick coatings on their skids help them keep from getting hung up on rocks, I'm sure that not having bolt heads or high/low spots integrated into your skid design will help do the same.

dan58
06-04-2009, 03:07 PM
Before I over react to your statement, are you taking another Dan58 style shot at me, or are you referring to a change in hardware on the belly up setups?

All I know is that all the hardware utilized on the bottom of the frame or skids, on any of the rigs I've had past or present, were all seriously mangled up by the end of a wheeling season.

And if competition guys think that using super slick coatings on their skids help them keep from getting hung up on rocks, I'm sure that not having bolt heads or high/low spots integrated into your skid design will help do the same.

That. Bold above.

A person can easily change out the hardware on those skids if they felt it was a problem, but I don't think it is a problem for 99.99% of wheelers. I had a BU on my TJ, similar to the ones above. The bolts were in decent shape after 4 years of trail work. I never once got stuck on an exposed bolt head, but I sure did find where the belly would high center. If you look at the two above, neither one are completely flat. The lowest point is not the bolt heads on them, but the skid itself.
Running a totally flat skid on a highway legal vehicle is incredibly difficult due to driveshaft angle (and stuffing everything against the floor). Judging by the question by the OP, I would say he/she is looking for some upgraded protection/clearance on a DD-type wheeler. Both skids I posted would fit the bill quite nicely for the intended purpose.

The UHMW plastic used in comp trucks is not only used because it's slick, but because it's easily replaced, with no welding required.

trailerrails
06-04-2009, 03:22 PM
I have a hard time believing that you can get hung up on a bolt head. I am sure it can happen but you are talking about a 1/4". My bolts got pretty mangled but never caused any problems.

limegreentj
06-04-2009, 03:47 PM
No production flat belly or high clearance engine skids available from what I've seen

My plan is to build a tubular trans x-member, then build my own high clearance skids to attach to that with zero bolt heads hanging down to hang anything up in the rocks. (I'll make all the bols run horizontally off of vertical tabs or vertically from top down to weld nuts)


even if you built something with bolt heads hanging down couldnt you just recess the bolt heads (maybe allen or something) into the skid?

gonecheenin
06-04-2009, 04:13 PM
even if you built something with bolt heads hanging down couldnt you just recess the bolt heads (maybe allen or something) into the skid?


That must be the approach that the skid's Dan noted above take.


Makes em a bitch to get out sometimes though, ever look at what happens to non-recessed diff cover bolts on a rock crawler :042:

gonecheenin
06-04-2009, 04:17 PM
I have a hard time believing that you can get hung up on a bolt head. I am sure it can happen but you are talking about a 1/4". My bolts got pretty mangled but never caused any problems.

Minor sure, possible also sure. If you were a 1/4 inch from getting free, then that 1/4 inch would have done the trick.


When I was gonna redo the Bluggy my intent was to make everything on the bottom of the frame & skids like runners, that way even that slight chance of getting hung up was reduced.


But for a DD, I'm sure we are talking over kill since the simple fact that we're discussing placing all your vehicles weight via the skids against a rock probably means your not planning on taking it to work the next day :042:

jeep-freak92
06-04-2009, 08:34 PM
the yj is my daily driver so i dont intend to smash it up too much i just wanna fab up some skid plates so it doesnt get destroyed

ex. last summer i tore off my exaust manifold by being stupid

i would just like to make it so that that is not even a problem

thanks for the links and stuff guys ima check em out

and thanks alot mxracer yer pics are prob. gunna be the route i end up taking because of my budget =P this stuffs not cheap

jeep-freak92
06-04-2009, 08:36 PM
oh and mx racer was that your rig up there or picture you just came across if thats yers and you did it yerself how much time do you think were talkin to make these

mxracer513
06-04-2009, 10:51 PM
no not my rig but i had the pics on my computer cuz i'm planning on doing it myself.

jeep-freak92
06-05-2009, 01:57 PM
o alright well thx for sharing then =D

jeep-freak92
07-24-2009, 10:18 AM
we had a military issue hummer at work the other day and it didnt really have any skid plates it just had bars running underneith like in a criss cross pattern

would this work better for an all purpose vehicle
-Flexwise?
-weight wise
-cleaning wise (mud wouldnt sit on top)

95yj40
08-30-2009, 08:28 AM
The problem with criss crossing bars is that your making places for things to get lodged into and hold you up.