OverDrive - YJ

[Krod]

Ok I'm starting an actual thread in here since this is going to be a long project and I need a place to keep track of it all. Figured some of you would be interested in the process.

Some of you know my YJ was in need of a rebuild, so rather than trying to piece together something from the remains, I decided to start from the ground up (literally).

In the works


YJ Frame & 4wd Hardware glass tub
GM 3.8 litre L67 supercharged v6
Aisin-Warner AW4, manual shift conversion w/OD
Atlas 4 speed
78 HP Dana 60 Detroit 4.88 and other goodies
14bFF Detroit & 4.88's
Double triangulated 4 link rear, 3 link front w/panhard
40's
14" FOA coilovers F/R


I'm going to try to keep it somewhat drivable on the street, but I'm sure I'll have to make concessions to make everything work together (mainly the steering). We'll see where we're at when that bridge arrives...


The remains of the old YJ were sold or traded off....sad to see her go, but I know the parts got a good home and will be abused accordingly :112:

What it was:...
http://i271.photobucket.com/albums/jj136/satnav9r20/Jeep%20YJ%20Rebuild/5.jpg

Stripping the old Jeep for parts...(no comments about it looking like a rollerskate please... :082::082: )
http://i271.photobucket.com/albums/jj136/satnav9r20/Jeep%20YJ%20Rebuild/0920081132.jpg
http://i271.photobucket.com/albums/jj136/satnav9r20/Jeep%20YJ%20Rebuild/0927081511a.jpg

For now its all mock-up...


Deliveries from Brown, er...White Santa (...it was FedEx, I'm not racist :033:)

Ballistic came through with some goodies
http://i271.photobucket.com/albums/jj136/satnav9r20/Jeep%20YJ%20Rebuild/IMG_0006.jpg

They're sitting in the new tub, on a MUCH better frame (the picture here doesn't do it justice...stripped pictures coming soon)

The Engine and transmission are bolted together for mock-up and motor mount fab. Headers fit like a glove, so I just need to get moving on building the links and mocking up the 60/14bFF.
http://i271.photobucket.com/albums/jj136/satnav9r20/Jeep%20YJ%20Rebuild/IMG_0001.jpg


Plasma cutter gets shit done mo-fasta! Should have bought that thing a LONG time ago.

More pics to come as I get shit done. :lastweek:

[XJchris98]

http://i271.photobucket.com/albums/jj136/satnav9r20/Jeep%20YJ%20Rebuild/0927081511a.jpg



Whats that sexy blue car in the garage behind the jeep?
:flipoff2:

[limegreentj]

looks like a good build...but i would be weary of using fiberglass for a trail jeep. when you roll it it blows up....but the nice thing is you can tiger hair repair it

[Krod]

Whats that sexy blue car in the garage behind the jeep?
:flipoff2:

Some POS we should have swapped the Starion motor into a long time ago...but SOMEONE had to buy a Jeep :037:



looks like a good build...but i would be weary of using fiberglass for a trail jeep. when you roll it it blows up....but the nice thing is you can tiger hair repair it

trail jeep? Oh I get it...you think I'm going to wheel this one..:flipoff2: lol



Seriously, the cage, sliders, and corners will all be tied into the frame as an assembly. The glass is pretty much there for looks, and to keep it rust free. I have seen the glass tubs take some pretty hard hits and rather than cracking, simply flex and pop back. I guess it depends on what you hit. Stop down some weekend and help, and I'll explain better.

[limegreentj]

if i ever get my shit on the road i'd be more than happy to help you out man...that jeeps gonna be nice anyway (fiberglass or no)

[Krod]

Did some more prep and mockup this weekend in between head work on Chris' XJ. :flipoff2:


Started stripping the frame of the old powder coat and what little rust was on it.

It's in really nice shape under all the old faded black
http://i271.photobucket.com/albums/jj136/satnav9r20/Jeep%20YJ%20Rebuild/IMG_0141.jpg

Aircraft stripper takes powder coat, paint, and anything else thats attached to your frame and makes it go away. We WIPED it off with rags for 90% of the rails, and it looked like it just came back from media blasting....unfreakinbeleavable stuff!!!
http://i271.photobucket.com/albums/jj136/satnav9r20/Jeep%20YJ%20Rebuild/IMG_0143.jpg

http://i271.photobucket.com/albums/jj136/satnav9r20/Jeep%20YJ%20Rebuild/IMG_0142.jpg

http://i271.photobucket.com/albums/jj136/satnav9r20/Jeep%20YJ%20Rebuild/IMG_0144.jpg


Made in CANADA EH!
http://i271.photobucket.com/albums/jj136/satnav9r20/Jeep%20YJ%20Rebuild/IMG_0154.jpg


Still have some random YJ brackets to remove, but the plasma is paying for itself...and the neighbors are liking the lack of grinding we have to do because of it.
http://i271.photobucket.com/albums/jj136/satnav9r20/Jeep%20YJ%20Rebuild/IMG_0151.jpg



And I'm finally getting the headers set on the engine. Its going to be tight getting all of this plus a driveshaft in there, but we'll see next week how the 60 fits under all of it.
http://i271.photobucket.com/albums/jj136/satnav9r20/Jeep%20YJ%20Rebuild/IMG_0161.jpg





More next week after we finish the XJ long arm project! :icon_weed:

[gonecheenin]

That thing is already sexy! :023:


Where'd you get that fancy frame? :gear_evil:

[Krod]

Front 3 Link is coming together. I'm trying to keep it as low as I can without hacking the frame to bits. Should end up with a belly height around 26-27" with 20" rolling radius tires. I can live with that for what we wheel around here.

Everything clears, full bump shitty cameraphone teaser pic...
http://i271.photobucket.com/albums/jj136/satnav9r20/Jeep%20YJ%20Rebuild/0830091723.jpg

I'm using .750" SHC shoulder bolts for the trac bar, since I don't like loading bolts in shear (even double shear) for something like that. The pin in the pic is for mockup/welding.

[gonecheenin]

dang man, that looks like some hardware you got going together there!

I'm gonna have to stop & check it out sometime.

[Krod]

dang man, that looks like some hardware you got going together there!

I'm gonna have to stop & check it out sometime.

Give me a call. I'm there most weekends and I need to get a steering box from you for mockup! :023:

[gonecheenin]

I need to get a steering box from you for mockup! :023:

No sweat, you need pitman arm & steering coupler too?

[Krod]

Yes.

I think I'm going to have to use an astro van box & a waggy arm eventually, but a stocker will let me see how it should all fit for the time being. I've got a feeling I'm going to have to relocate it anyway :045:

[Krod]

little update since I've been sitting on these pics for a while.

The front is all tacked together, but the 60 will need pulled to finish welding the truss/brackets. Still have some work to do like chopping the front once I figure out where the steering box needs to go, and welding the gussets on the trac-bar frame side mount.

http://i271.photobucket.com/albums/jj136/satnav9r20/Jeep%20YJ%20Rebuild/IMG_0175.jpg



1st pass welds on the LCA frame brackets
http://i271.photobucket.com/albums/jj136/satnav9r20/Jeep%20YJ%20Rebuild/IMG_0179.jpg


Transfered the AW4 tail-housing pattern (using the paper and pencil method)...

http://i271.photobucket.com/albums/jj136/satnav9r20/Jeep%20YJ%20Rebuild/IMG_0173.jpg

...so I could start work on the transmission crossmember.

http://i271.photobucket.com/albums/jj136/satnav9r20/Jeep%20YJ%20Rebuild/IMG_0180.jpg

I did the crossmember this way to help resolve the torque developed in the transfer case rather than relying on the tail-housing of the AW4 to take that load.

I still have a good bit of cutting and bracing to do to make it solid enough for my liking to hold the Atlas, but it should help with the problems commonly seen when running a heavy case and deep TC gears...like broken transmission tail-housings...

Rear 4 link crossmember is almost done, and I'm working to get the rear truss and links done this weekend. Updated pics coming Sunday night.

[Krod]

Rear 4 link is coming together. I still need to tie the rear truss together and add the bracing to the center crossmembers, and A LOT of final welding...but its finally starting to look like a chassis.

http://i271.photobucket.com/albums/jj136/satnav9r20/Jeep%20YJ%20Rebuild/IMG_0186.jpg



Anyone want to bend some tube? I need coil-over hoops in the near future

[guy]

Nice lookin build man i like what your doing. did you use a link calculator on your 3 and 4 link?

[cityslicker]

goddamn thats some kinda long arm there...

[Krod]

Nice lookin build man i like what your doing. did you use a link calculator on your 3 and 4 link?

For the rear, yes. The front was put together to fit around the engine and frame. Kept the ~25% of tire diameter and 8" minimum vertical separation rules on my mind as I set everything up in the front though.

Rear numbers
http://i271.photobucket.com/albums/jj136/satnav9r20/Jeep%20YJ%20Rebuild/FinalRear4-linkNumbers.jpg

I don't put much faith into the link calculator numbers, since its SO dependent on the final weight distribution and COG height. Build what works and put it where it fits, but keep the separation rules in mind since ignoring those can actually cause the forces in the links/brackets to really jump up.

[Krod]

goddamn thats some kinda long arm there...

really no longer than most LA setups.... ~37" links all around with the exception of the front upper.

[guy]

Rear numbers
http://i271.photobucket.com/albums/jj136/satnav9r20/Jeep%20YJ%20Rebuild/FinalRear4-linkNumbers.jpg

I don't put much faith into the link calculator numbers,


heard that its a good starting point then tweak to ur needs. Keep taking ur time it'll payoff in the end.

[jeepxj3]

OH my! I cant believe I missed this thread Matt! Your YJ is realling taking on quite the transformation! Ill have to swing by to take a look at this!

[gonecheenin]

Matt, you sure you want your lower links that heavily triangulated?

If I remember my link theory right, going that route will allow for alot of body roll in corners & on off cambers. If you were to make the lowers closer to parrallell if would kinda act like its own sway bar.

Basically, a little bit of flex steer in the rear will actually cause enough natural bind in the chassis that it won't lean like a drunkin bum on a sidehill (I think)

[Krod]

Matt, you sure you want your lower links that heavily triangulated?

If I remember my link theory right, going that route will allow for alot of body roll in corners & on off cambers. If you were to make the lowers closer to parrallell if would kinda act like its own sway bar.

Basically, a little bit of flex steer in the rear will actually cause enough natural bind in the chassis that it won't lean like a drunkin bum on a sidehill (I think)

You're right.

I would have loved to have the lowers more parallel to the frame for an easier to package 4-link. But doing that brings the roll axis angle up significantly = more rear steer. Sway is easier to handle than rear steer IMO (spring rates, shock angle, and swaybars).

Its a compromise for sure, so I have a feeling a swaybar in the rear is going to be a necessity.


The big floppy donkey dick syndrome should be more dependent on roll center height in relation to my COG. If the calculator numbers mean anything (at least at ride height on level ground), then my roll axis is at ~27", which is just above the belly height. If I do anything with the rear geometry, its going to involve getting that number closer to the COG height to help minimize the need for a stiff swaybar to counteract the lean.

We'll see how well it does in about 4 more years :042:



Ill have to swing by to take a look at this!

You've got my number.

[CESCO]

nice looking build man..

I think you will be happy running a fiberglass body. I run one and it does have some cracks in it, but even with those it still bounces back. I have heard the crunch of fiberglass many times, you will get used to it.

[Krod]

Thanks.

I'm looking forward to the no-rust factor :D
The body will be sandwiched in between corners and rockers that tie into the frame/cage, so hopefully that will eliminate the typical splintered fiberglass that I see on some glass bodies that get wheeled. I'll let the metal armor take the hits as its easier to replace/fix when it gets beat than major body panels.

Anyone have a Waggy pitman arm laying around by the way???

[CESCO]

Thanks.

I'm looking forward to the no-rust factor :D
The body will be sandwiched in between corners and rockers that tie into the frame/cage, so hopefully that will eliminate the typical splintered fiberglass that I see on some glass bodies that get wheeled. I'll let the metal armor take the hits as its easier to replace/fix when it gets beat than major body panels.

Anyone have a Waggy pitman arm laying around by the way???

I have my body sandwiched where the roll cage mounts to the frame. I am not running any metal armor, so the fenders are broken along with some corners and the doors. even with all of the damage that I have done to the body I will stay with the fiberglass. it has a memory and bounces back. as far as the rust factor, i used to think that to but really never ran it on the winter roads after all the mods so now it is not even a factor for me.

[dan58]

Is that Clayton's kit (or parts)? Looks a whole lot like his stuff. Can't go wrong with the service or price.


Rear 4 link is coming together. I still need to tie the rear truss together and add the bracing to the center crossmembers, and A LOT of final welding...but its finally starting to look like a chassis.

http://i271.photobucket.com/albums/jj136/satnav9r20/Jeep%20YJ%20Rebuild/IMG_0186.jpg



Anyone want to bend some tube? I need coil-over hoops in the near future

[Krod]

All of the links are fabbed with ballistic forged joints and a mix of brackets from them, dan @ ruffstuff, and my own.

[dan58]

All of the links are fabbed with ballistic forged joints and a mix of brackets from them, dan @ ruffstuff, and my own.

Ah. You just don't see many people running square stuff, and the crossmember reminds me of his. I have Ballistic 2.63s on a UPS truck...somewhere. They're supposed to be delivered on Friday.

[Krod]

Ah. You just don't see many people running square stuff, and the crossmember reminds me of his.

I'll take that as a compliment! Clayton's kits are nice and a great value for strength vs. overall cost. The 2x2x0.25 wall square is OVERKILL to the max for uppers, but I only have to carry one spare this way. And the strength is there without the expense of DOM. If it were a racer, I can see why chromo or DOM would be the way to go.


I have Ballistic 2.63s on a UPS truck...somewhere. They're supposed to be delivered on Friday.

We waited over a month for the orders from Ballistic for mine and Chris' rigs. Several calls, and finally a PM to their sales rep on Pirate got the shit on the truck. No big deal on my parts since this is a long project, but we were trying to get Chris' long arms built on a deadline, and a month is plenty of lead time to get some Joints and adapters out.

Its all quality parts through and through, but there is NO excuse for a company with such large growth to be lacking on things like shipping delays. Its called production management, and it seems they haven't learned the meaning of it.

As always, Dan (ruffstuff) got my shit here next day and correctly on the first call. I just wish they offered a larger line of brackets etc...

[dan58]

I've heard Ballistic was having trouble keeping up with demand. I ordered when they had the 15% off sale two weeks ago, and they shipped a week later. For some reason, they don't assemble them until they're ordered. Seems odd to me.......
I will probably get my brackets from Poly Perf and RSS. I have RSS's diff covers and can't complain a bit about them. I couldn't damage my square Clayton LA on my TJ, but I'm going bling this time around. Branik sells the 2" 7075 already machined for less than I can buy it in 12' sticks. I'm planning FOA COs in the back too.

[Wrecker]

I had that motor in the wifes old Park Ave. It was sweet. Nice and fast and godd mileage. The intake has a plastic nipple the will crack over time. It is for the heater hose. Help makes a metal one that is the exact replacement. You might want to do that now.

[Krod]

I couldn't damage my square Clayton LA on my TJ, but I'm going bling this time around. Branik sells the 2" 7075 already machined for less than I can buy it in 12' sticks. I'm planning FOA COs in the back too.

Sweet.
Branik's links are the definition of bling. And 7075 Al is going to be great on the rocks! Lots of give and plenty strong without the weight!!

I'm also doing the FOA CO's. probably 14"ers F/R. Let me know if you happen to get them before I do, since this will be my first setup and it never hurts to have someone who has set them up before for reference.




I had that motor in the wifes old Park Ave. It was sweet. Nice and fast and godd mileage. The intake has a plastic nipple the will crack over time. It is for the heater hose. Help makes a metal one that is the exact replacement. You might want to do that now.

Are you talking about the elbow under the blower that makes a 90 to the coolant manifold for the heater hoses? I'll have to check that out when I pull it apart this winter. Thanks for the heads-up!!

This one should be plenty fast. I've got some goodies coming that should bump me to ~ 350 hp/tq and MIGHT consider a medium shot of spray just for shits-n-giggles :033:

[Wrecker]

It was under the blower but it was a straight nipple. I cant remember what the hose looked like. But it was the 3/4 or 5/8 size bypass hose.

[SirFuego]

Nice build!

Any plans for air bumps, limit straps and sway bars?

[Krod]

Planning on center limit straps and timbrens on all 4 corners. Air bumps are probably worth it, but I'd like to finish this thing in time to wheel it before Obama makes us give up gasoline.

[OverkillZJ]

I'd like to finish this thing in time to wheel it before Obama makes us give up gasoline.

Quoted for funny truth!

[Mykal]

hahahahahahah

[gonecheenin]

I'd like to finish this thing in time to wheel it before Obama makes us give up gasoline.


:036: :036: :036: :068: :100: :icon_oak: :lame: :036: :036: (I'm awash with emotions :flipoff2: )

[Krod]

I ordered some go-fast parts for the engine, and they showed up this week.

Intense Racing s1X Cam
Manley Ti Retainers
Crow Cams 105# valve springs
Intense Racing 3.3" Charger Pulley
ARP head studs
JP Single roller timing set
Various gaskets, breathers, etc for the rebuild
Pacesetter Ceramic coated headers/Y-pipe (already on the engine for mockup)
http://i271.photobucket.com/albums/jj136/satnav9r20/Jeep%20YJ%20Rebuild/1115091009.jpg

HP-Tuners VCM suite so I can tune the L67 for those power adders
http://i271.photobucket.com/albums/jj136/satnav9r20/Jeep%20YJ%20Rebuild/1115091017a.jpg

With all of these parts, I'm hoping to put together a reliable ~350 hp/tq injected engine. Add alchy injection, more boost, or nitrous and I'm sure I can get more into the 400's, but you start to take the reliability out of it (not good for wheeling, but damn fun on the street :unibrow: ) Stock bottom end on these engines are good for 600 hp/tq and have cross-bolted mains. Strong little bastards for a granny car engine!

And I finally made sense of the factory engine harness. What a mess, but it cleaned up nicely after I removed a ton of circuits and loom held together by the worlds strongest factory electrical tape known to man :037:
:frocket:
http://i271.photobucket.com/albums/jj136/satnav9r20/Jeep%20YJ%20Rebuild/1023091238.jpg


For anyone looking, I was interested in the Painless power-braid loom, rather than the traditional black plastic corrugated loom shit. I found it through McMaster for less than you can get it under the "Power-Braid" label, and its exactly the same.

McMaster-Carr
http://www.mcmaster.com/#1459t15/=4jsvz4
http://www.mcmaster.com/param/images/sleeving/1459tfam.gif

Painless "power-braid"
http://i271.photobucket.com/albums/jj136/satnav9r20/Jeep%20YJ%20Rebuild/PowerBraid.jpg



I did the entire harness using 1/4, 1/2, and 1" sections, using liquid and traditional electrical tape to seal it all up. I'll grab a pic of the completed harness asap.

[dan58]

I'm also doing the FOA CO's. probably 14"ers F/R. Let me know if you happen to get them before I do, since this will be my first setup and it never hurts to have someone who has set them up before for reference.

I forgot an update for you. I'll be picking up some 2.5" remote reservoir 12s for mine (scored a nice deal on used ones). I plan to run 200/300 front, 200/250 rear springs to start. 10" top, 14" bottom. Have you priced springs? OUCH. I'm also shooting for AS numbers in the 100 range. In talking with some old pros, the rear winch makes anyone's numbers look good though. :biggrin:

In looking at the rear of your frame, you'll need to either notch the frame or lop it off and tube it. Coilovers just don't fit if you don't, unfortunately. I like the Poly/Gen Right if you want to keep the frame. Mine is getting hacked off, then tubed. I have propane tanks in the rear, so I can't get as creative as I'd like to be.

[Dozer45]

Unbelievable! That is a sick build, someday when i grow up and get a real job i want to be able to do this. Many props to you, it is definetly sweet.

[Krod]

I forgot an update for you. I'll be picking up some 2.5" remote reservoir 12s for mine (scored a nice deal on used ones). I plan to run 200/300 front, 200/250 rear springs to start. 10" top, 14" bottom. Have you priced springs? OUCH. I'm also shooting for AS numbers in the 100 range. In talking with some old pros, the rear winch makes anyone's numbers look good though. :biggrin:

In looking at the rear of your frame, you'll need to either notch the frame or lop it off and tube it. Coilovers just don't fit if you don't, unfortunately. I like the Poly/Gen Right if you want to keep the frame. Mine is getting hacked off, then tubed. I have propane tanks in the rear, so I can't get as creative as I'd like to be.

If you look carefully at the pic showing the chassis from the rear, you can see the back 1/4 of the chassis isn't stripped of the original coating. I'm still up in the air how I want to narrow it (or if I want to at all since its in such good shape).

I really like the fabbed rails (ie BTF and Sniper Fab), but refuse to pay that much for some plate with a few bends in it when I have a plasma and access to a brake. I have a few Ideas bouncing around my head, but I'm not able to do anything there until the weather breaks in the springtime...so i'm going to see where it leads once I have the body on the frame, and the coilovers in hand.

If anyone is reading this that has a bender, I still need some coil-over hoops bent up. Nothing crazy, just a few ~180* bends 1.75" OD toob. PM ME!!! I'd rather give my business to someone local rather than some company.






Unbelievable! That is a sick build, someday when i grow up and get a real job i want to be able to do this. Many props to you, it is definetly sweet.

Thanks bud. I'm taking my time to afford/fab the things I want with this build. I'm in no rush, and its feels nice to take your time on a project. Getting married this coming year, so the project will slow down as that approaches.

[dan58]

Don't be afraid to cut it. Performance first. :D

Miller talked me into this cut. Simple and effective.
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=774021&highlight=poly+performance

[Krod]

Don't be afraid to cut it. Performance first. :D

Miller talked me into this cut. Simple and effective.
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=774021&highlight=poly+performance



Hell yes! The Miller Motorsports YJ is a sweet rig.

I have no fear of cutting it, but I still have to retain a rear bumper (for driving on the roads). It will probably get cut and narrowed, but in a way I haven't seen done before on a Jeep. Lots of straight cuts I see look pretty hack, and although I personally think the round tubing looks better than rectangle, It won't work for me. As long as I get the clearance I need, and it looks like it belongs there, I'm happy.

Let me know when you get those FOA's. I'm waiting until I can see what clearance I'll have with the body on the frame before I make the decision on travel, but its looking like the 14" 2.0 body emulsions should fit.

[dan58]

With your tools, just go 3/16" box. Run it right along the square part of the tub like the BTF (holy hell are they expensive for a box). There's just no way to fit even a 2" air shock in there because you need to angle them in to reduce body roll. With a 2.5" CO, I'm happy to leave some sheetmetal. I almost tubed out the whole rear end. It would have been easier and cheaper. I think a square tube back frame looks pretty good, and no one really sees it in all reality.
Erik is a pretty cool dude. He's always willing to lend a hand or give out advice on what he's used. It's scary to think he had a JP Mag cover truck before he was 21. I don't think he's even 25 yet. :lol: His new Twisted truck is ungodly hot.

Did you buy an Atlas yet? What adapter are you using to mate an AW4 to the 3.8?

[XJchris98]

What adapter are you using to mate an AW4 to the 3.8?


If I remember correctly its a stock isuzu rodeo bellhousing.




BASTARD! lol :finger:

[Krod]

With your tools, just go 3/16" box. Run it right along the square part of the tub like the BTF (holy hell are they expensive for a box).

My thoughts exactly. $600 for 8 feet of 3/16" plate with a few small angle bends in it is ridiculous. If it were more reasonable, I'd definitely go that route since it gives me everything I want and clearance to spare.




Did you buy an Atlas yet? What adapter are you using to mate an AW4 to the 3.8?

Didn't buy the atlas yet, planning on the 4spd (suspension and crossmembers are built around its dimensions). With the wedding coming up I'm watching what I spend on the Jeep projects until after I'm hitched. I've got enough stuff to keep me busy on this thing until then.

The bellhousing is a factory Isuzu part. Because GM and Isuzu are in bed with each other, the 3.5L v6 in the late model rodeos shares the gm 60 deg pattern with the 3.1, 3.4, and 3.8L Chevy Engines (even though the 3.8L L67 is a 90 deg engine). AND because Aisin Warner made the trans for the rodeo (essentially an AW4), it all bolts together with only a few spacers for the torque converter. I have a PN if you need it. The AW4 has proven itself behind a few turbo 4.0L's and is a variant of the trans in the turbo supra (big power). Lots of good stuff in there, it just hates heat. Keep it cool and you've got a bulletproof trans.

I'm honestly surprised the XJ guys haven't caught on to the GM 3.8L family yet...

[dan58]

Interesting swap. Who is making a manual control for the AW4? The guy on pbb (IIRC) is done with making them. I'm a fan of the 3.5 shortstar/904/D300. 904s were found behind the 2.8L in XJs, so they aren't all that common. The power/weight is amazing. I'm debating a Gen III/IV swap/Turbo350 for next year. The budget for this year....gone. lol

[Krod]

Interesting swap. Who is making a manual control for the AW4? The guy on pbb (IIRC) is done with making them. I'm a fan of the 3.5 shortstar/904/D300. 904s were found behind the 2.8L in XJs, so they aren't all that common. The power/weight is amazing. I'm debating a Gen III/IV swap/Turbo350 for next year. The budget for this year....gone. lol

I'm making the manual control, but not like the tap-shift that Brett's controller was. This will be full manual with compression braking and manual TC lockup. All shifted through an Art-carr. But I'm not letting the details of that idea out of the bag until I prove it out myself. :flipoff2:

There is a 700r4 from the 2.8L S-10's that also has the 60 deg pattern, if you can find one. The shortstar has the same patten (60 deg), so you have options other than the 904 if you want the caddy engine.

[dan58]

I'm making the manual control, but not like the tap-shift that Brett's controller was. This will be full manual with compression braking and manual TC lockup. All shifted through an Art-carr. But I'm not letting the details of that idea out of the bag until I prove it out myself. :flipoff2:

There is a 700r4 from the 2.8L S-10's that also has the 60 deg pattern, if you can find one. The shortstar has the same patten (60 deg), so you have options other than the 904 if you want the caddy engine.

The 904 is the ticket....no adapters to run a D300. :p: They hold up to 300hp pretty well. The shortstar 3.5 was out of the Aurora. The 4.6 is the granddaddy northstar. Woot. :D

[Krod]

Some not-so-recent updates. I'm trying to keep working on the little projects through the winter, so that come nicer weather I can get the suspension finish welded and the body on. Then paint all of the rolling chassis/axles and get the engine fired up. HOPEFULLY before the wedding :120:

working on finalizing the Engine Harness.
http://i271.photobucket.com/albums/jj136/satnav9r20/Jeep%20YJ%20Rebuild/IMG_0195.jpg



Then I tore the engine down to put in the go-fast bits and replace all the gaskets.
You can see the "power braid" conduit on the harness in the background. I really like how this stuff came out. With some liquid electrical tape on the joints, it really cleans up the wiring. Recommended! :045:
http://i271.photobucket.com/albums/jj136/satnav9r20/Jeep%20YJ%20Rebuild/IMG_0198.jpg


Parts cart holding all the bs parts that need to be cleaned or painted.
http://i271.photobucket.com/albums/jj136/satnav9r20/Jeep%20YJ%20Rebuild/IMG_0200.jpg


Torquing the ARP head stud nuts, and getting the rest of the long block put back together. Almost ready for paint when I get some good weather. Everything inside was within spec, and the cylinders all had great compression and were still showing the original cross-hatching from the factory hone. Thank you grandparents everywhere for taking such good care of the cars these engines came in! LOL
http://i271.photobucket.com/albums/jj136/satnav9r20/Jeep%20YJ%20Rebuild/IMG_0201.jpg

I'm up in the air about putting DEX back into this engine, some hardcore 3800 guys say no, some say yes. Bottom line is I do not want to have "regular" 50/50 mixing with any leftover DEX that might be hiding in the coolant passages, so it looks like DEX is it.

I'll have some more pics after we get the rest of the parts painted and put back together.

[anodyne33]

http://i271.photobucket.com/albums/jj136/satnav9r20/Jeep%20YJ%20Rebuild/IMG_0198.jpg



I'm totally unfamiliar with that motor. What is running through the lifter galley on a gear drive? Some sort of balancer?

[Krod]

I'm totally unfamiliar with that motor. What is running through the lifter galley on a gear drive? Some sort of balancer?

Yep, balance shaft.

The L67 is a 90 degree V6 which was based on a typical 90 deg v8 Buick block (most other GM v6's are 60 deg with the exception of the 4.3, which is also based off of a v8 350 casting). During each rotation of the crankshaft in the 90-degree six cylinders, three cylinders fire at 90 degree intervals, followed by a gap of 90 degrees with no power input. That makes the engine shake (grandpa would bring it back to the dealer if his Buick did that :037:) The balance shaft provides a vibration which cancels out the shake inherent in a 90 degree V6.

Some guys lose them when going to double roller timing sets, but it doesn't bother me since I'm not trying to squeeze another 500-1000 rpm's out of it. The extra rotating mass is negligible in my case. Good eye!

[Krod]

starting to look like an engine again :033:

http://i271.photobucket.com/albums/jj136/satnav9r20/Jeep%20YJ%20Rebuild/IMG_0006-1.jpg

I still have a lot of little details to button up, but the nice weather got me working again on this. Big thanks to Wes for the awesome paint work.


More to come hopefully in the next few weeks as I get it outside. Need a few nice days to get the axles back together and roll it out of the garage to paint the chassis/axles/suspension.

[95TacoKid]

Lookin good man, glad you are happy with the paint. I really need to find a job upon graduation and get a garage where I can tear something apart in for a while...

Let me know if u ever need help with anything, im also more than willing to sit around drink beer and supervise haha

[mrdylanr]

Is that a smaller pulley on the blower? and how much boost will you be running?

[Krod]

Lookin good man, glad you are happy with the paint. I really need to find a job upon graduation and get a garage where I can tear something apart in for a while...

Let me know if u ever need help with anything, im also more than willing to sit around drink beer and supervise haha

It came out great. Now I just have to keep 'em clean while I finish the rest of the Jeep! :042:

You're welcome to come by anytime, but we drink real beer here, so no more college brews for you. :flipoff2:
Once the weather gets more consistently nice, I've got some moving to do if I want to get it rolling before the wedding.


Is that a smaller pulley on the blower? and how much boost will you be running?

Yes. That pulley will be close to 10psi on paper. But it will depend on how the heads/cam/headers work with the added boost. Some see less with the restrictive manifolds removed...but I promise it will make more power than 10psi on a stock engine :047:

Intercooling (possibly chemically) is the next addition once I get it running and moving around. That blower makes a metric-ass-ton of heat even stock.

[gonecheenin]

Looking down right sexy!!!!! :047:

[Krod]

Not too much new happening, since I'm still getting all the parts cleaned up and that makes for boring updates :flipoff2:

Had a chance to tear the hubs and brake brackets off of the 60 and 14 bolt, tore them down and had them blasted to get rid of the years of dirt, grease, and rust that covered 'em.

Time for new bearings, seals, and some paint. I'm hoping to get them on the axles next weekend and bring me that much closer to getting it all rolling.

http://i271.photobucket.com/albums/jj136/satnav9r20/Jeep%20YJ%20Rebuild/0402001651.jpg



Steering parts should get here this week, and I'm hoping to get moving on getting the axles rolling so I can move it outside and get body mounts built. The garage is a total mess from working all winter on a Jeep in a one car garage...definitely time to clean up in there and get everything back to organized for nice-weather work!

[dan58]

Now that you have the knuckles cleaned up, put them on pbb or ebay and invest in a set of Reid's. It's a minimal investment, and you will need them eventually. Might as well sell the stockers while you can still get money out of them.

[Krod]

I agree, but WTF are stock Ford knuckles even worth? LOL

Time to bite the bullet. If I'm going to do 'em, this really is the time...I just painted the stock set with KBS and they're CLEAN.

[dan58]

I agree, but WTF are stock Ford knuckles even worth? LOL

Time to bite the bullet. If I'm going to do 'em, this really is the time...I just painted the stock set with KBS and they're CLEAN.

They're worth a lot more than broken knuckles! :043:

I bet you could get $150 or more for a pair. Maybe even $250. But, that's money you won't get for selling broken ones. Ford knuckles aren't an "if" breakage, but a "when" breakage. With all of the killer work you've done now, you might as well do it right the first time.

[Krod]

They're worth a lot more than broken knuckles! :043:

I bet you could get $150 or more for a pair. Maybe even $250. But, that's money you won't get for selling broken ones. Ford knuckles aren't an "if" breakage, but a "when" breakage. With all of the killer work you've done now, you might as well do it right the first time.


haha I agree. I'll get 'em on Pirate and see what kind of interest there is. Do you guys have any connections for the Reid Knuckles? I like to support vendors that support local guys.

[dan58]

I'd suggest calling Randy Wood at www.adventurous4x4.com (301-791-6869). He's a HUGE supporter of wheeling in PA and works with Reid a lot. They have the knuckles in stock, along with the correct studs (I got ARP spindle studs and high steer arm studs directly from them).
The Reid knuckles are BUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUULING stuff.

[Deadman 94 xj]

Everything looks pretty bad ass krod. Nice build for sure. I'd like to start one from the ground up one day. A lot less shit to re-do when you know it's right the first time!

[red6rubicon]

not sure how I missed this but all I gotta say is Damn Nice Build!

[Krod]

not sure how I missed this but all I gotta say is Damn Nice Build!

For some reason, this forum doesn't show up on the "new posts" or under the recent threads on the home page. Its easy to miss.


Everything looks pretty bad ass krod. Nice build for sure. I'd like to start one from the ground up one day. A lot less shit to re-do when you know it's right the first time!

Thanks! Its cheaper/faster to buy a built roller from someone if you're just hells bent on getting on bigger trails on a decent budget RIGHT NOW. But I'm not. I enjoy a longer project that I can take my time on some of the details and really dig into it. The little parts take more time and money than you can ever anticipate. Someone told me take your budget and multiply it by 3 to get your finished cost....I'll be damned if they weren't really close!

CHEAP - FAST - RIGHT
You can describe any project with two out of the three...





Dan, thanks for the contact. I'll call 'em tomorrow and see what they can do for me. :unibrow:

[Deadman 94 xj]

Either way, it's very cool. To watch too! I'll be following along.

(The wife just read your reply to mine and said, NO!) haha

[mxg342]

They're worth a lot more than broken knuckles! :043:

I bet you could get $150 or more for a pair. Maybe even $250. But, that's money you won't get for selling broken ones. Ford knuckles aren't an "if" breakage, but a "when" breakage. With all of the killer work you've done now, you might as well do it right the first time.


I have to say that broken Ford knuckles have ruined at least one day of wheeling in my life. Not to mention an air grinder and an on board welder...... Dan, I think you remember that day!

[dan58]

I have to say that broken Ford knuckles have ruined at least one day of wheeling in my life. Not to mention an air grinder and an on board welder...... Dan, I think you remember that day!

Yep. Sure did. And I can say that Jeff bought a set of Reid's the following Monday. :lol:

http://i203.photobucket.com/albums/aa319/dan58jeeptj/RockRunDec09/IMG_0488.jpg

[Krod]

Yep. Sure did. And I can say that Jeff bought a set of Reid's the following Monday. :lol:

http://i203.photobucket.com/albums/aa319/dan58jeeptj/RockRunDec09/IMG_0488.jpg

http://www.bored383.com/gallery/albums/crap/vw_oh_snap.gif


No longer a problem ;)
Thanks Dan, Randy got me setup.

[Krod]

(The wife just read your reply to mine and said, NO!) haha


LOL

My fiancee has been GREAT about the Jeep projects, and was the same when it was still a functioning vehicle. She gets her dream wedding, and I get a pile of parts :085: :042::042: Gotta keep those ones :003:

I even compromised and set this thing up with a (semi) automatic so she can drive it around sometimes.

[Deadman 94 xj]

LOL

My fiancee has been GREAT about the Jeep projects, and was the same when it was still a functioning vehicle. She gets her dream wedding, and I get a pile of parts :085: :042::042: Gotta keep those ones :003:

I even compromised and set this thing up with a (semi) automatic so she can drive it around sometimes.

LOL,
It's all about the compromise! I'm still learning that one. She's becoming a little more educated regarding our hobby here. The more she know's the more she "questions"! :042:

[dan58]

No longer a problem ;)
Thanks Dan, Randy got me setup.

Cool. Randy is a helluva nice dude. Did ya name drop? lol

[Krod]

Cool. Randy is a helluva nice dude. Did ya name drop? lol

Hell yes. lol :flipoff2:

He seems great to work with. I'll likely be back for other parts if this all goes through that easily. I like supporting the guys that support our local groups.

Thanks


BTW, out of curiosity, in that picture of the snapped knuckle....were his tires always able to get into those links? It looks like it. I've seen several failures because of that, just wondering if that didn't help his situation. Tires bound into the links, and steering going hard lock....somethings going pop

[mxg342]

Dan,

Do you have the picture of it welded up? The trail we were on wasn't that tough but I guess it was stressed in a rollover the week before. If I remember right anyway.

I really thought we were f'ed that day.

[dan58]

I only have a picture of Otter holding the stick welder at that point. You point out the problem with the stock Ford knuckles. A rollover actually cracked the kingpin (and the owner didn't know it), and the hydro steering was enough to break it off clean. The recovery could have been a LOT worse. Thank God we had a stick welder and a guy who could use it.

[Christopher]

I only have a picture of Otter holding the stick welder at that point. You point out the problem with the stock Ford knuckles. A rollover actually cracked the kingpin (and the owner didn't know it), and the hydro steering was enough to break it off clean. The recovery could have been a LOT worse. Thank God we had a stick welder and a guy who could use it.

I think I was there when that happened. Up until that point I was not aware of that problem
Question
Is it only the full hydro's breaking them? I'm wondering if I should put gm knuckles on for conventional steering. (reids are not an option for me yet)

[dan58]

I think I was there when that happened. Up until that point I was not aware of that problem
Question
Is it only the full hydro's breaking them? I'm wondering if I should put gm knuckles on for conventional steering. (reids are not an option for me yet)

Save for the Reid (like Krod :D ). If you use Chevy knuckles, you need new spindles, brakes, etc. Sell the Fords (Krod, how much are they going for?).

[Christopher]

Save for the Reid (like Krod :D ). If you use Chevy knuckles, you need new spindles, brakes, etc. Sell the Fords (Krod, how much are they going for?).

I have dodge and gm 60's also.
.

[Krod]

Sell the Fords (Krod, how much are they going for?).

Seems like $200 for a pair in average shape. I listed mine for 225 shipped with
New kingpin bushings, springs, and caps.

No rush to sell 'em but they are out there at least. If they don't get any hits, I'll be more negotiable on the price once my reids show up.

[Krod]

Ok back to this. New Reid Racing knuckles are here, and I'm chasing the right seals down for the hubs, apparently finding parts for one of the most common front axles is harder than I thought lol.

Got the wheel stud situation figured out too. I made a mistake that turned out to be a blessing in disguise. I ordered all new studs/nuts to replace the originals F/R, but made a mistake on the front stud size. I ended up with studs that had a knurl OD that was just too large to work with, and would have required all kinds of BS to get to work. Those got returned, and I started looking for alternatives. It turns out that the new Dorman 610-301 studs I had for the 14 bolt rear are PERFECT for the 78-79 D60's without having to drill the hubs out to accommodate the later model Ford 60 studs. These match the rears, I now have 9/16 studs all around instead of the factory 1/2-20's in the front, and they'll work with any of the aluminum wheels (including my H2's). Much better.

The stock 1979 D60 studs are 1/2-20 thread and have a knurl OD of .6205"
http://i271.photobucket.com/albums/jj136/satnav9r20/Jeep%20YJ%20Rebuild/IMG_0020.jpg

and sit in the rotor like this...You can see where the knurl sits in relation to the front of the rotor hat, where the hub surface meets it.
http://i271.photobucket.com/albums/jj136/satnav9r20/Jeep%20YJ%20Rebuild/IMG_0012.jpg

http://i271.photobucket.com/albums/jj136/satnav9r20/Jeep%20YJ%20Rebuild/IMG_0422.jpg

The 610-301's have a knurl OD of .6220", a +.0015" Difference. Perfect, that means they should be a nice fit into the D60 hubs. Just have to check the shoulder lengths and OD's to make sure it will seat right in the rotor.
http://i271.photobucket.com/albums/jj136/satnav9r20/Jeep%20YJ%20Rebuild/IMG_0018.jpg

PERFECT FIT!!! Honestly even nicer than the stock studs in the new rotors.
http://i271.photobucket.com/albums/jj136/satnav9r20/Jeep%20YJ%20Rebuild/IMG_0011.jpg

Side by side with the stock studs. The knurl is further back on the shoulder, but still seats fully in the hub.
http://i271.photobucket.com/albums/jj136/satnav9r20/Jeep%20YJ%20Rebuild/IMG_0016.jpg

If you don't need the extra length on the studs, you can always use the 610-228's for a shorter length if you're using steel wheels. They're installed and the 60 is pretty much buttoned up. Hoping to finish the 14B next weekend and get it on the rollers.

[highlandercj-7]

This is going to be one swett mo-chine! Very nice work. Run away from dex that stuff is the devil. It's fluxed up a lot of GM engines wether they will admit it or not. This is the only time you'll hear me say "Go Green" lol. Don't worry on the fiberglass tub, 4wd Hardware tubs hold up extremely well to abuse. When properly protected it's even better.

[CESCO]

good to know... I guess I am just to damn lazy to do the research so I just left the factory studs in mine.. so yes, i have 2 different size lug nuts.

[Krod]

good to know... I guess I am just to damn lazy to do the research so I just left the factory studs in mine.. so yes, i have 2 different size lug nuts.

My wheels wouldn't have worked with the factory ones, and it was all apart anyway. I got lucky with these. Hope it saves someone else the time searching.

[Krod]

Well, its out of the garage for the first time in a year! Tossed on the grill and hood just to see how it sits. Dan told me Harbor freight had a sale on some D60 knuckles :icon_winkle:, so those went on too (color is going to change REAL soon since I can't stand orange)

http://i271.photobucket.com/albums/jj136/satnav9r20/Jeep%20YJ%20Rebuild/IMG_0065_6_7.jpg

I don't know why everyone isn't rolling on 30" tires...all the cool kids are doing it LOL



...and since you can't even SEE it in that photo (which was the idea), Justin did some great work bending me a radiator hoop that matches the YJ grill lines perfectly! :045:

Still needs the rest of the engine cage finished up, cross braces and the like...
http://i271.photobucket.com/albums/jj136/satnav9r20/Jeep%20YJ%20Rebuild/IMG_0025.jpg


Bachelor party next weekend, so don't expect any updates for a bit! :icon_jook: :overkill:

[Deadman 94 xj]

Looks good! I'm starting to picture this beast. Did you make a decision as far as tire brand yet?

[dan58]

It's about time. Mine already hit the trail. :overkill: Get that thing done already!

[Krod]

It's about time. Mine already hit the trail. :overkill: Get that thing done already!

I'll see you guys in about 2 more years lol

Pics??



Looks good! I'm starting to picture this beast. Did you make a decision as far as tire brand yet?

40"x17 MTR's with Kevlar, but I've been keeping my eye out for other deals in that size.

[dan58]

I'll see you guys in about 2 more years lol

Pics??

40"x17 MTR's with Kevlar, but I've been keeping my eye out for other deals in that size.

Here ya go. Not complete, and needs the roof finished. Also need to go to a softer rear spring. Don't mess with kevlars. BFG has a new 40" blue label crawler.

http://i203.photobucket.com/albums/aa319/dan58jeeptj/pile%20rebuild%202010/STB_1111.jpg
http://i203.photobucket.com/albums/aa319/dan58jeeptj/pile%20rebuild%202010/STA_1099.jpg

[red6rubicon]

that looks pimp! (Krods jeep not Dans)

[Krod]

We fired the L67 up this weekend after chasing out the VATS from the ECU. Apologies for the poor quality video/audio, all I had was my phone at the time.

<object width="480" height="385"><param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/zYZ9O8qYXi4?fs=1&amp;hl=en_US"></param><param name="allowFullScreen" value="true"></param><param name="allowscriptaccess" value="always"></param><embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/zYZ9O8qYXi4?fs=1&amp;hl=en_US" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowscriptaccess="always" allowfullscreen="true" width="480" height="385"></embed></object>

[Dick.Breakey]

that sounds great with open headers. sounded like it was idling good too. good job

[Krod]

Its not an LS, but its going to surprise a few people for sure.

With the 180* thermostat and that radiator, it idled for over 20 minutes without breaking 200 degrees with no assistance from the fan. I was happy with that, and am confident that I can keep it cool with the front clip on and the fan running when needed.

[Dick.Breakey]

thats very good. sounds like you wont have the normal problems most do. reliability is always a concern with projects like this. glad to see you have it under control...... for now haha

[highlandercj-7]

Sounds like an old airplane engine, lol. Can't wait to see it done.

[warwagon98xj]

it does sound kinda like an old merlin v12 when its idling

[justin'sbig7]

wow! i cant believe i missed the posts with the hoop and coil mounts on. its all turning out really nice! keep up the good work!

[Krod]

Sounds like an old airplane engine, lol. Can't wait to see it done.

I was going for fire-truck-whistle with the blower whine :unibrow:
but a cool vintage airplane engine is a complement!



wow! i cant believe i missed the posts with the hoop and coil mounts on. its all turning out really nice! keep up the good work!

Thanks Justin, you wouldn't believe how perfect that hoop fits the fenders/grill/hood. Its coming your way for a cage in the spring time if I can get the wiring and the interior done this winter, so lets discuss and start brainstorming for that project. :029:

[PatF10]

Interior shouldnt be hard, seats, dash bedliner, thats about all that fits in a jeep

[Krod]

^ Spammer. Time for the ban hammer! lol

[gonecheenin]

Soooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooo;

Where's the updates man - I wanna see how the Mo-Cheen is coming along?!?!?!?!?!

:popcorn2:

[Krod]

Hahah Where the hell have you been!?

Wiring and plumbing engine and every other electrical item in a rig takes too much time, and makes for boring pictures.

I'll grab a few pictures tomorrow to bring this back up. Waiting on AA to get the 4-speed to me, but like everyone else I'm in the post KOH build queue for those. Cage work starts once the weather gets warmer, but I'm busy now getting too involved in a 74 BMW Tii LeMons track car build for the summit point race in June, so the Jeep hasn't seen much loving.

http://i271.photobucket.com/albums/jj136/satnav9r20/5216682398_d9f2e127c6_b.jpg

http://i271.photobucket.com/albums/jj136/satnav9r20/5484797770_1876566ecc_b.jpg

[gonecheenin]

Hahah Where the hell have you been!?
Floating about as usual - keeping up with internet goings ons everyday just burns up too much time!!!!




Wiring and plumbing engine and every other electrical item in a rig takes too much time, and makes for boring pictures.


Yeah - no kidding!!! You can always tell the person who never built/rebuilt a rig from scratch when they think it's almost done just cause it looks like a vehicle again and runs & moves.


I'll grab a few pictures tomorrow to bring this back up. Waiting on AA to get the 4-speed to me, but like everyone else I'm in the post KOH build queue for those. Cage work starts once the weather gets warmer, but I'm busy now getting too involved in a 74 BMW Tii LeMons track car build for the summit point race in June, so the Jeep hasn't seen much loving.


That is one wild looking contraption - what's it powered/gonna be powered by?

[Krod]

Yup. Its an ugly mofo for sure, but that is the point of LeMons. Plus we get to piss off all the purists that can't belive we're tearing into a 2002 Tii to make a LeMons car.

It has a 2.2L Metric Mechanic engine backed up by the stock 4 speed stick, RWD. Plan is to get it into this race and feel out how crazy we want/need to get with it. We have supercharger plans for next year if we keep it shiny(ish) side up for the remaining 2011 races.

[Krod]

Dash is coming together...

http://i271.photobucket.com/albums/jj136/satnav9r20/Jeep%20YJ%20Rebuild/IMG_0626.jpg

http://i271.photobucket.com/albums/jj136/satnav9r20/Jeep%20YJ%20Rebuild/IMG_0625.jpg

I'm almost finished cleaning up the remaining wires still showing in the pics above. The ECU is mounted and it all works. Next is the rest of the chassis harness, lights, transmission controller etc...

[justin'sbig7]

That dash is beautiful! Nice work, you definitely do everything over top notch

[highlandercj-7]

Nice clean work. I can't wait to see the finished product. That old bmw would be sweet with the buick mill too.

[ezman]

damn man! that's pretty bad ass... seeing the old red yj brought back some memories of you hydrolocking your engine at the gravel pits. now look at you all growed up building a sweet ass one tonner.

[Sycotik Skier]

Very nice work. reminds me how bad my stuff is.

[Krod]

Thanks guys.


damn man! that's pretty bad ass... seeing the old red yj brought back some memories of you hydrolocking your engine at the gravel pits. now look at you all growed up building a sweet ass one tonner.

haha I miss wheeling with the EJP crew. I need to come back up to Tom's when this is done and take back the Trophy for the comp run....I don't think Jason will mind if I only run Mod right?? LOL

[ezman]

hahaha... maybe he does get a little protective of it.... this years comp run should be sometime in oct. well that's when it usually is anyway. i may be done with mine by then. don't know yet.

[Krod]

hahaha... maybe he does get a little protective of it.... this years comp run should be sometime in oct. well that's when it usually is anyway. i may be done with mine by then. don't know yet.

He does...but he forgets how easily the PSU Jeep guys stole #1 and #2 from him a few years ago!

Yours has a better chance than mine of making this year's run, but I will get back up there eventually.

[PatF10]

ahh i remember when my jeep was fresh, rust free and the wiring was neat.....

[Deadman 94 xj]

Looks great! Is that center piece a switch bezel? Just wondering what it is.

Awesome job.

[red6rubicon]

very sweet build!

[XJchris98]

Looks great! Is that center piece a switch bezel? Just wondering what it is.

Awesome job.

Yep, thats a switch panel...made for a boat/marine applications if I remember correctly. As with everything else on this project, its definitely over the top.

Believe it or not, that panel is home to like 2 of the 6 ignition swithes for this damn thing. I think hes worried about someone stealing it, that is if it's ever done for someone to steal.:overkill:

[Deadman 94 xj]

lol, thanks. Defiinitely cool.

[Krod]

Looks great! Is that center piece a switch bezel? Just wondering what it is.

Yep. Its a 6 position fused BlueSea panel.

http://i271.photobucket.com/albums/jj136/satnav9r20/Bluesea4306.jpg

Labeled for everything a Jeep needs...
Bait Pump
Fish Finder :037:
Radar...

You know...just the basics lol

Actually those labels are completely customizable and are printed on a heavy plastic-type material. So you can get them to say anything you want. There are two LED's behind the labels, red and green. Red's are on when the panel has power, Green when the circuit is switched on. Made it very easy to get all the switches I could need, labeled, and indicator lights on each without having to wire and place all those components individually. Its waterproof, each circuit has a built in 15 amp fuse (perfect for activating relays for the things you're switching on), and the bezel is paintable, so It will be sprayed black to match the rest of the dash hardware. It can be installed in either direction (horizontal or vertical like mine), so it works well in just about every dash layout and you can get them in 2-8 switches if you don't need all the extra circuits. Not that much more than the same number of set-up carling switches.

[limegreentj]

ha! bait pump....

[Krod]

That old bmw would be sweet with the buick mill too.

It was suggested.... :077:

[Deadman 94 xj]

Yep. Its a 6 position fused BlueSea panel.

Labeled for everything a Jeep needs...
Bait Pump
Fish Finder :037:
Radar...

You know...just the basics lol

Actually those labels are completely customizable and are printed on a heavy plastic-type material. So you can get them to say anything you want. There are two LED's behind the labels, red and green. Red's are on when the panel has power, Green when the circuit is switched on. Made it very easy to get all the switches I could need, labeled, and indicator lights on each without having to wire and place all those components individually. Its waterproof, each circuit has a built in 15 amp fuse (perfect for activating relays for the things you're switching on), and the bezel is paintable, so It will be sprayed black to match the rest of the dash hardware. It can be installed in either direction (horizontal or vertical like mine), so it works well in just about every dash layout and you can get them in 2-8 switches if you don't need all the extra circuits. Not that much more than the same number of set-up carling switches.


That's pretty freakin cool man. You really do do top notch work.

I still have a thing for my cj knobs (lol) but if I ever get tired of breaking them off with my knee, I might just do something like that.

[cityslicker]

Hahah Where the hell have you been!?

Wiring and plumbing engine and every other electrical item in a rig takes too much time, and makes for boring pictures.

I'll grab a few pictures tomorrow to bring this back up. Waiting on AA to get the 4-speed to me, but like everyone else I'm in the post KOH build queue for those. Cage work starts once the weather gets warmer, but I'm busy now getting too involved in a 74 BMW Tii LeMons track car build for the summit point race in June, so the Jeep hasn't seen much loving.

http://i271.photobucket.com/albums/jj136/satnav9r20/5216682398_d9f2e127c6_b.jpg

http://i271.photobucket.com/albums/jj136/satnav9r20/5484797770_1876566ecc_b.jpg


This Jeep build is great man... i really enjoy following it.. BUT I WANT TO SEE WHAT YOUR DOING TO THIS COCKSUCKER HERE /\
|

[Krod]

lol it is a bastardmobile

Maybe I'll give it its own thread. Can you say spatter-paint???

http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5029/5656694630_a002a66337_z.jpg

[cityslicker]

can I splatter paint?
Anyone can. just splatter whatever in paint..

[ezman]

i think he's saying the paint scheme of the car is going to be spatter paint? if so i vote twice for awesome ugliness. just as long as mr. hanky is somewhere on the vehicle

[Krod]

i think he's saying the paint scheme of the car is going to be spatter paint? if so i vote twice for awesome ugliness.

Yup.

[cityslicker]

oh.. dear god sir, why..... it'll look like a Kandinsky.
and that's not a good thing. well at least you go that bad ass Jeep.

[ezman]

for the lemons race, i think that would be perfect. just remember the mr. hanky decal. it'll make it more aerodynamic.

[Krod]

Spent the last few days going over the design, and then bending the cage and tacking it together. It still needs seat mounts and a harness bar, but I'll add those after I get some better seats. For now, I'm going to get it moving with the Bestop Trailmax seats I have from the old YJ. I'm Planning on pulling the cage to finish weld and paint in the next few weeks.

http://i271.photobucket.com/albums/jj136/satnav9r20/Jeep%20YJ%20Rebuild/IMG-20110805-00098.jpg

...complete with vice grip windshield hinge mounts for the lazy man! :flipoff2: (I still have to drill the mounting holes out and build reinforcement backing plates for the hinges)




...and the Atlas 4 speed showed up to complete the powertrain :029:


http://i271.photobucket.com/albums/jj136/satnav9r20/Jeep%20YJ%20Rebuild/IMG-20110731-00086.jpg

It will be getting set up with 1350 CV companion flanges for the drive shafts. I still need to order those, and finish building/gearing the axles, but those will be winter projects.

[Deadman 94 xj]

Lookin good! The cage turned out sweet!

[tjblair]

Looking damn good!

[gonecheenin]

Damn dude. Just Damn.


I am SOooooooooooooooooooooo jealous of this rig!

[JLITTY]

Very nice!

[highlandercj-7]

Sweet! Love that t case!

[gonecheenin]

Krod - did I miss the explanation of how your mounting & covering that fuel cell for highway use?

[Krod]

Thanks guys! I take a lot of pride in the build, but honestly I can't wait to flog the shit out of this thing. :042: Sucks being on the sideline for this long...

J, I have a mount that is not pictured. The mount will bolt it into the tub, and I'll likely build a subframe/false floor over the rear fender wells to cover and protect it. That should also give me room to mount a box for tools and trail spares. The battery is also mounted back behind the fuel cell to make room in the engine bay for the trans cooler that will vent out the passenger side fender perforations (same Genright fenders as yours). The fuel cell will have the F.A.T.S. (fuel-air-trap-system http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?p=2712471 ) built that will vent outside the tub to keep fuel from venting or leaking out if (when) I put this thing on it's side.

I debated putting the cell below the tub floor, but couldn't make it fit and still clear the suspension and rear axle without coming into the tub at some point. So we said the heck with all that messing around, and planned to mount it right in the tub itself. I've been able to keep the floor surprisingly intact, and I intend to keep it that way as much as possible.

[ezman]

cage looks good man. simple and effective. i can't see in the pic but do you have any spreader bars over the seats up top?

[Krod]

Thanks!

There are two parallel tubes that run the width of the windshield (top and bottom of the glass). There is a center spreader bar that runs from the B-pillar hoop to the top windshield bar. I'll probably tie that into the lower windshield bar with a piece of 1.50", rather than the 1.75" I used everywhere else. Still needs some gussets at the corners, or some diagonals, but I hate to cut into head room anymore than necessary.

[gonecheenin]

Still needs some gussets at the corners, or some diagonals, but I hate to cut into head room anymore than necessary.


Agreed - all the crazy strong cage building techniques don't mean a thing if you smash your skull during a roll over against a poorly placed tube!

[Krod]

We finished up the exhaust and have the seat mounts almost done and tied into the cage. Picked up a pair of Corbeau JP seats and lined the tub with Monsta-Liner to finish off the interior. I'll be reusing my old Tuffy, but adding on to it so I can incorporate mounts for the shifters. I'll have some pics of all that this weekend when I get back into the garage again. But a teaser for now...

























http://i271.photobucket.com/albums/jj136/satnav9r20/Jeep YJ Rebuild/IMG_0106.jpg

Time to build some axles :045:



Rear is getting the Grizzly locker and 4.88 gears with a new 1350 yoke
Front is getting the TenFactory 35 spline chromoly shafts and ECGS drive slugs with matching 4.88's and an EATON Elocker

I also picked up a 2x8" ram and hoses to plumb in the hydro assist.

If anyone is building axles, I highly recommend you talk to East Coast Gear Supply. They were really great to deal with. Looking forward to giving another east coast vendor our business in the future.

Time to get back to work and get the transmission back out for a rebuild, then its all small details and re-assembly. Still shooting for completion early this summer.

[cityslicker]

****ing awesome...

[Krod]

Grabbed a few quick shots while we were working today.


Starting the center console additions to accommodate the shifters.
http://i271.photobucket.com/albums/jj136/satnav9r20/Jeep YJ Rebuild/IMG_0277-2.jpg

Quick shot of how well the exhaust came out (IMHO). Really happy with this piece, and the fact that it clears all the links and body is a huge plus.
http://i271.photobucket.com/albums/jj136/satnav9r20/Jeep YJ Rebuild/IMG_0288-1.jpg




And finally a question for the inspection tech's on here....

What do I need to make this fuel cell setup legal by the book? I assume a firewall of some sort, and the proper venting obviously. Does it need a separate gas cap? The jeep is still technically a 94 YJ, so I need to get some clarification about a few things regarding the emissions inspection with the fuel cell and engine swap. Any help is appreciated.
http://i271.photobucket.com/albums/jj136/satnav9r20/Jeep YJ Rebuild/IMG_0281.jpg

[Krod]

and for the Tii build fans....

It raced at Charlotte :082:
http://i271.photobucket.com/albums/jj136/satnav9r20/2002Tii/6184008001_58ffa51904_o.jpg


I didn't get to make that race, but it looked like the rest of the team had a blast in the rain.

[tjblair]

looks really good!

[highlandercj-7]

That is shaping up to be one wicked Jeep. If you are worried on the registraition and emissions, You may consider getting a title for a old CJ, since the rig is custom built and the interior is more CJ than YJ. A 70's CJ title will help in the emissions and registration.

[justin'sbig7]

Wow!!!! You never cease to amaze me. That interior layout and execution is.... Im speechless. Just wow.

[Yarz]

Very nice work!

[Krod]

looks really good!


Thanks Jeff. If I remember right, you built a firewall around your tank when you moved it into the tub, was that required for inspection? I like the extra layer of protection, but don't want to over-do it if I don't need to.


That is shaping up to be one wicked Jeep. If you are worried on the registraition and emissions, You may consider getting a title for a old CJ, since the rig is custom built and the interior is more CJ than YJ. A 70's CJ title will help in the emissions and registration.


I've considered that, or possibly a modified title to the original YJ one. If I could find one for cheap, I'd be more open to it, but everyone with the 70's CJ titles wants more than what it's worth (IMHO)

It should pass emmissions without any trouble as it sits (full working cat and O2's, and engine is a newer vintage than the vehicle it is in.) If I read the inspection manual right, it should only need the sniffer test based on the year of the chassis (plus it was all OBD-I), and possibly a gas cap pressure test??? Need to get those questions answered. The fuel system (cell in the bed) is a big grey area for me right now, and again...need to get some clarification there before I go any further to finish it off.




Wow!!!! You never cease to amaze me. That interior layout and execution is.... Im speechless. Just wow.
That is a huge complement Justin. Thanks buddy, it is FAR from done. Your tube work makes me jealous of the layouts you can accomplish. I still can't belive how perfect that grill hoop you bent came out to match the stock grill lines!!

[tjblair]

Haha, mine is not inspected. I used the stock tank and just built the enclosure around it to keep things like my chainsaw and other sharp objects from poking the tank

[Krod]

Never thought about chainsaw damage! Good one.

After some reading on the DOT website, I'm going to enclose it completely and route the vent lines elsewhere. The language about "any part of the system entering the passenger compartment" is what I was questioning. But it seems pretty clear cut...build a firewall and remove it from the passenger "compartment".

[Sloth_Fratelli]

What do I need to make this fuel cell setup legal by the book? I assume a firewall of some sort, and the proper venting obviously. Does it need a separate gas cap? The jeep is still technically a 94 YJ, so I need to get some clarification about a few things regarding the emissions inspection with the fuel cell and engine swap. Any help is appreciated.


diddnt look all the way thru to the beginning, but youll need all evap controls that came stock to make it street legal.

also, engine has to be same model year or newer and retain all emissions controls, and you have to have a check engine light that works assuming you live in an emissions county (key on, lights up for a sec then turns off, stays on when a code is thrown.)

engine swaps are a tricky thing to get into when you talk about inspection. if you dont live in an emissions county ( hope you dont lol) you dont need a cat but still need visible emissions controls (wether they work or not is up to you, its only a visual for emission systems :slywink:) and it needs to be same model year or newer. i doubt theyll look too far into it, just dont throw a crabeurated SBC under the hood lol.

my advice is if you live in an emissions county move, and get to be best friends with an inspection mechanic.:082:

[Krod]

diddnt look all the way thru to the beginning, but you'll need all evap controls that came stock to make it street legal.

also, engine has to be same model year or newer and retain all emissions controls, and you have to have a check engine light that works assuming you live in an emissions county (key on, lights up for a sec then turns off, stays on when a code is thrown.)

engine swaps are a tricky thing to get into when you talk about inspection. if you dont live in an emissions county ( hope you dont lol) you dont need a cat but still need visible emissions controls (wether they work or not is up to you, its only a visual for emission systems :slywink:) and it needs to be same model year or newer. i doubt theyll look too far into it, just dont throw a crabeurated SBC under the hood lol.

my advice is if you live in an emissions county move, and get to be best friends with an inspection mechanic.:082:

I unfortunately do live in an emissions county, but its not the end of the world. I don't have a problem working to pass emissions, just want a clear-cut guideline as to what is legal.

I have a check engine light that is functional, and technically have a fully functional OBDII port if we need to have it scanned. However, it was my impression from the DOT guidelines, that I would not have to be tested via the OBDII scan because the engine model is newer (1999) than the vehicle it is in (1994), and it only has to pass the test for the existing chassis model year, not the engine model year.

I Need to check on what the stock evap controls (charcoal canister??) were from the 94 YJ...

Anyone have an idea about the gas cap test? I haven't put in a stock cap/neck setup, and don't want to if it is not required.

[Sloth_Fratelli]

Anyone have an idea about the gas cap test? I haven't put in a stock cap/neck setup, and don't want to if it is not required.

gas cap test is super literal-they just test the cap. you dont need an oe cap, but you do need one for a regular a$$ car to be checked for leaks.

on the emissions thing i cant really tell ya, but the fully functional obd port i know is required. engine swaps bring up the most brain-meltingly confusing parts of any govt legislation in any state/country/planet ever, i swear

[justin'sbig7]

Could you possibly get a few pics of how you mounted the radiator? trying to get a few ideas

[Krod]

No problem. I've got some rework to do to the plumbing for the upper radiator hose, and the lower mounts. I'll take some closer shots this weekend to show you what I have so far, but it's going to change before we're done with it for good.

[justin'sbig7]

Thanks!

[gonecheenin]

Coming along fantastic brother!


If anyone is building axles, I highly recommend you talk to East Coast Gear Supply. They were really great to deal with. Looking forward to giving another east coast vendor our business in the future.

Ditto, nothing but good things to say about them - honest, fair priced, patient, and top shelf quality in my experience (as far as what I purchased anyways - I'm honestly not sure if they have lower quality "cheap" stuff available or not?)

[Krod]

Justin,

Here is a shot of the upper mounts. Used the aluminum wedges to keep the bolts perpendicular to the radiator brackets. That will be eliminated in V2.
http://i271.photobucket.com/albums/jj136/satnav9r20/Jeep%20YJ%20Rebuild/0107021829b.jpg

The reason I need to redo them is to move the entire radiator back about 1/2" (sucks) to clear the headlight housings.

When I skinned the grill, I cut out the housings and never realized how much space they take up, so I need to build those into the hoop. A mistake that is going to cost me some time, but nothing a little cut and weld can't fix. I have new upper and lower brackets to replace the ones welded to the hoop that need the shims. Those new brackets will push the rad back to give me the clearance I need for the lights.

[justin'sbig7]

thanks!

[Krod]

I started the tear down and rebuild on the AW4 this week. Going to bump the line pressure and do a few small mods internally to help with shift timing and firmness. My first slushbox rebuild, but it is fairly straight forward. This one (from a 2001 XJ) is in really nice condition inside, no burnt fluid, no discolored steels. Clutches are only slightly worn out of spec (0.0825" v spec of 0.084"). Looking forward to putting it into gear for the first time.

Parts-o-rama
http://i271.photobucket.com/albums/jj136/satnav9r20/Jeep YJ Rebuild/IMG_0235.jpg

Staring down the belly of this thing.
http://i271.photobucket.com/albums/jj136/satnav9r20/Jeep YJ Rebuild/IMG_0229.jpg

[Deadman 94 xj]

You're a better man than me...no way I'd touch the inside of one of those!

Good stuff!

[Krod]

It wasn't all that bad to get into. I have the ATSG manual and some good exploded views that really help. The real test is once its back together!

[Krod]

Still kicking on this thing.

Finished the rebuild on the AW4, adding a few touches internally to make it shift a bit firmer and shorten the duration between gears. Not a bad job at all! Just had to keep everything in order and CLEAN. It was actually in great shape, and probably would have been fine as-is, but I wanted to make sure It was solid before buttoning everything up.

http://i271.photobucket.com/albums/jj136/satnav9r20/Jeep YJ Rebuild/IMAG0051.jpg

The trans is back in for the last time and we're working on getting the crossmembers (suspension and transmission) finished up.

Getting ready to order some drive shafts and tires soon.

[justin'sbig7]

sweet! so when is the shakedown run?

[Krod]

August. Still have a lot to finish before paint.

[PatF10]

woohoo progress!

[gonecheenin]

Man I can't wait to see this thing on the trail!

[dan58]

Ge this thing done, mang! I already have two full seasons of racing and am in the start of the third already! I'm almost ready for a new chassis. lol

[Krod]

Haha. I know I'm behind, only able to work on this one or two days a week right now.


It will feel good to open up on that engine when its done!

[PatF10]

well you are getting more done on yours one or two days at time than i am. I am single living at home and have plenty of time to work on it too.

[Krod]

You still need a cage! We can work on that !

[PatF10]

ok i know there are updates....lets see em!

[Krod]

Getting closer! (to the roof too)

http://i271.photobucket.com/albums/jj136/satnav9r20/Jeep%20YJ%20Rebuild/IMAG0060.jpg

[justin'sbig7]

niiiiice!!!

[Deadman 94 xj]

Bad arse!

[PatF10]

looks great, but the worst part is i know its about to end up a red YJ ! :flipoff2:

[Krod]

That is a sure thing! How else can we explain gremlins on the trail if there isn't a red YJ there?

[highlandercj-7]

I can't wait to see this thing, looking sweet!

[gonecheenin]

Farkin awesome!


How you digging the tube fenders? Did you tie them into the frame to keep from damaging the tub if you tag something with the flare? (Or are those fiberglass tubs WAY stronger than I give them credit for?)

[highlandercj-7]

The 4wd glass tub is way stronger than you give them credit for.

[PatF10]

ill second that, ive had mine twisted and bent but it hasnt cracked...yet

[Krod]

The front of each fender is actually tied into the grill hoop with a support. The body-side is just mounted to the tub. With the way these Gen-rights taper in over the tires, I'll have to really lay it over to get something into the tube that would push the fender into the body.

Its not a buggy, and it won't be driven like one so I think the tub will survive. :flipoff2:

[gonecheenin]

I actually bent the pass fender on mine - TWICE!!! Course, I probably could be described as driving my red YJ like it's a buggy. :017: :042:

Smacked the widest part of the tube flare on a tree @ the top of a hillclimb & it stretched the metal right where it gets thinner on the inside behind the flare. I actually just got done heating & "massaging" it somewhat back in shape since I'm as we speak swapping them over to my white YJ. (Gave up on the red YJ being/looking street legal-ish)


The front of each fender is actually tied into the grill hoop with a support. The body-side is just mounted to the tub. With the way these Gen-rights taper in over the tires, I'll have to really lay it over to get something into the tube that would push the fender into the body.

Its not a buggy, and it won't be driven like one so I think the tub will survive. :flipoff2:

[Krod]

Nice. LOL

[Barillms]

Great build, hope to see you on the trail one day

[Krod]

Thanks. There is another month worth of weekends to get it anywhere near a trail!!

I have been making some progress over the past few weeks:


D60 is buttoned up, 14B gets the treatment next weekend
Cage tie-ins are done
Seats are now integrally mounted to the cage
Rear flares and LED tails are done and installed
Front bumper and winch plate are mostly done
Hydro assist is set up. Box is tapped and the new endcap is installed. Hoses are routed and the cooler is ready to go in.


The awesome axle/welding table we put together from some scraps. Saves my back doing the gears, and the jack-stands can be removed to lay sheet over the top for welding/fab etc...

Getting ready to load the 60 on it for gear/locker install...

Move the table under the engine crane
http://i271.photobucket.com/albums/jj136/satnav9r20/Jeep YJ Rebuild/IMAG0086-1.jpg

Roll the axle over to the crane, rig it, use 1 roller as counterbalance lol
http://i271.photobucket.com/albums/jj136/satnav9r20/Jeep YJ Rebuild/IMAG0087.jpg

pick up the axle and set it on the stands
http://i271.photobucket.com/albums/jj136/satnav9r20/Jeep YJ Rebuild/IMAG0088.jpg

This thing might just be the best tool I've had since the plasma.


60 almost done!
http://i271.photobucket.com/albums/jj136/satnav9r20/Jeep YJ Rebuild/IMAG0100.jpg

front bumper/winch plate coming together
http://i271.photobucket.com/albums/jj136/satnav9r20/Jeep YJ Rebuild/IMAG0068-1.jpg

cage tie-in (bolt is just in there for mock up)
http://i271.photobucket.com/albums/jj136/satnav9r20/Jeep YJ Rebuild/IMAG0078-1.jpg

[Deadman 94 xj]

Lookin :icon_super:

That axle stand is nice. I'm working on my rear 14bolt regear and something like that would've saved me a few discs. :042:

What are the little tabs/plates below the D-ring shackle mounts? Are they there to spread the load when you hit something?

[Krod]

Lookin :icon_super:

That axle stand is nice. I'm working on my rear 14bolt regear and something like that would've saved me a few discs. :042:

What are the little tabs/plates below the D-ring shackle mounts? Are they there to spread the load when you hit something?

That stand is really useful.

The little tabs are gone now. They were the excess length on the tabs that tie into the lower bolt holes on the frame.




Made great progress this week. The brakes lines are fully run and mounted, regeared and locked the 14B, steering cooler and hydro assist are plumbed in. Time to get the atlas in for good and get the driveshafts installed.

I have a little more wiring to clean up, and some odds and ends that need mounted for good but its still looking promising for paint around the end of the month!

[Krod]

Well it made its first trip around the block to test the brakes and transmission shifting. Everything seems to function very smoothly. We hit a few snags with the brakes, found a reman caliper on the 60 that had a leak that ended up being a bleeder that had been repaired (shitty) with what looked like a helicoil....WTF...

Needed to make a new pushrod for the booster, and adjust the length to get the pedal where I wanted it. After those fixes it came together well and I'm getting closer to paint.

I wanted to show how we did the lines for the hydro assist since I promised Tom an explanation about the modified caps.
A new front cap that has a npt hole for adding a fitting was installed, and I tapped the top cap at the thickest portion. Pics below:

http://i271.photobucket.com/albums/jj136/satnav9r20/Jeep%20YJ%20Rebuild/IMAG0142.jpg

http://i271.photobucket.com/albums/jj136/satnav9r20/Jeep%20YJ%20Rebuild/IMAG0143.jpg

http://i271.photobucket.com/albums/jj136/satnav9r20/Jeep%20YJ%20Rebuild/IMAG0074.jpg

[Deadman 94 xj]

Wow, thanks. Thats much cleaner than I had imagined but then again, I don't know why I thought it would be any other way with this build.

Very cool.

[Azzy]

That thing is looking sweet! You go with a homebrew solution for the AW4, of off the shelf manual control kit?

[Krod]

Thanks! I think the steering came out well for as tight as everything is packaged.



For the trans, I made a box that ties the NSS and the trans solenoid harness together. A few 3A diodes in the right place and you have a full manual control (with compression braking) AW4. I'll draw up a diagram and post it when I get a chance.

[gonecheenin]

Nice!


Where'd you get the new cap for the box?

[PatF10]

come on i know you have more pics or a video of this thing moving on its own

[Krod]

None yet. Chris might have shot a few pics as I was moving it around. I'll try to make a quick video next weekend.

[Krod]

Where'd you get the new cap for the box?

http://jkwoffroad.com/offroadproducts.php

[Krod]

http://i271.photobucket.com/albums/jj136/satnav9r20/4KHcGYcOYl2_-eRbMoLIEB0Pc0lqBw4zxnbtC1fHcGY_zps45efcb56.jpg

Off to paint!

[justin'sbig7]

Looks good!

[HeepH8erTy]

looks fuggin sweet! You gonna paint it red?

[Krod]

Of course!

[highlandercj-7]

Sweet!

[Krod]

Unlike Ryan, I am not sick of red! :112:

http://i271.photobucket.com/albums/jj136/satnav9r20/Jeep%20YJ%20Rebuild/IMAG0169.jpg

http://i271.photobucket.com/albums/jj136/satnav9r20/Jeep%20YJ%20Rebuild/IMAG0167.jpg

[2002wranglerX]

If my red looked that shiny I would have left it.

Looks good.

[Krod]

No worries...ill find a good trail to fix that problem in no time!

[highlandercj-7]

Damns that's sweet! I love red too.

[justin'sbig7]

that turned out very, very nice!

[JeepGeneral]

Looks great! All your attention to detail paid off!

[Krod]

Thanks guys! There is still quite a bit of things to finish up. Need to finalize the trans/engine skidplate and wire the front locker. I have a sticking front brake issue that could be the 2500 master cylinder, a bad caliper, or brake fluid heating up in the line where it travels down the upper link past the exhaust.

Lots of help getting it where it is today, and I couldn't have built this thing without their help.

[HeepH8erTy]

damn matt, lookin real good!

[oldschoolyotaguy]

Pretty sad that I just found this thread, Wes has been showing me pics since it began, never knew you went this far with it, awesome work man. Glad you went with ECGS for all your axle parts :thumbsup:, Chase doesn't **** around when it comes to going out of his way for the customer, hardest working person I've ever been around. But if all goes to plan this week, I may be picking up an L67 myself, for my Truggy, may be PM'ing you with wiring questions. Maybe spring/summer time, get that thing down to Harlan with us!

[Krod]

Hell yes! I've been following your truggy on Pirate4x4.

I've got all of the pinouts and did my own harness so I can help get you running. I have HPTuners and can flash your ecm with a working .bin that will let you run without all the factory emmissions, trans, VCM, etc...

My build is fairly mild with the S1X cam and some head work, but you can go all out with these engines all the way up to nasty turbo builds.
What transmission do you want to run?

Let Wes know if you're going to be back up in pgh anytime and give me a call.

[oldschoolyotaguy]

Gotcha, I'm pretty much looking to snag the motor and put it on a pallet under a shelf. Acquire a th350 and nestle it with it for a while, or even a 904 if I can find one. Friend of mine has 2 727's he'll give me, one has a FMVB ad one had good guts, then bolt a 300 or atlas to the back of it. My truck works fine now, so I'm going to let it ride, when the motor swap happens, the front will get stretched, linked, Yada, Yada, Yada... haha

The motor will remain mostly stock, at least I say that now, who knows though once I open it up, got 150k on it. The wiring will be where I'll be sketched out the most, but when it gets down to it, I'll be picking your brain haha

Not sure when we'll be back home again, but we'll have to get together

[Krod]

So there are no surprises, you know the L67 does not have the bop pattern common to the th350....it has the GM metric pattern (same as the 60 degree 3.4v6). You can adapt if you want though.

Read the 3800 bible on PBB for some good tech if you haven't already.

[jeepxj3]

So has this thing hit the trail yet?

[PatF10]

So has this thing hit the trail yet?
We got a comedian in the house! haha

[Krod]

Mall car shows only!

Everything in time. We've been busy finishing Chris' XJ and planning how to legally tow all this awesome behind a Dodge.

Rumor has it Wes has a new rig and its ready for the car show scene too. Going to be a fun summer!

[PatF10]

meanwhile in a barn in green county my jeep sleeps. at least its dirty though.

[Krod]

True!

when are we doing a cage extension on the 5??

[PatF10]

lets measure it up!

[XJchris98]

I'm game! After doing the cage in my XJ I bet we could knock out yours in a day or two.

[jeepxj3]

Chris, where's your build?

[Krod]

In the garage! Test run this weekend. Stay tuned for pics.

[Deadman 94 xj]

I was wondering the same thing!

[HeepH8erTy]

In the garage! Test run this weekend. Stay tuned for pics.

where the pics at homie?

[XJchris98]

This just about sums up the weekend...
:116:

https://scontent-a-lga.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash3/t1.0-9/10421129_10106517414615754_2744341959828318675_n.j pg




On the flip side though, all of that ^^^ led to me finally getting mine out of the garage. sooooooooo....who wants to update my inspection? :082:
https://fbcdn-sphotos-c-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-prn1/t1.0-9/10300709_10106518075311714_7890347731250059151_n.j pg


I just realized Matt's 60 and the neighbors garage have something in common :flipoff2:

[PatF10]

But where is the story of HOW it broke. Must have been a nasty trail or something right?

[Krod]

Careful with that double low kids.

[tjblair]

Broke the three link mount? Double low can be a killer.

[Krod]

Yep. Double low is going to demand some more respect. The welds held but it sheared the truss allowing the axle to rotate forward. Bent both coilover shafts, but that appears to be the extent of the damage other than the truss itself....thankfully.

Some Artec and Fox goodies are on their way to replace the broken parts and get it back together. Trying to make Bantam if the parts get here in time. Its already on stands with the 60 stripped and ready.

Bad day for sure.

[tjblair]

Wasnt it you that saw me almost do the same thing to a t&t truss at charapp?

[XJchris98]

Jeff did you end up keeping your TnT truss or replacing it with something else? IIRC yours snapped around the TnT welds, Matts blew straight through the 2" rec. tube, lol. I was surprised it sheared the way that it did.

[tjblair]

Replaced with an Artec.

[justin'sbig7]

What the??? Ho-ly crap, That takes some talent man!

[Krod]

Replaced with an Artec.

You guys don't have one in stock for the 78-79 ford do you? Drop shipping from Artec is going to put it close on my deadline. I guess they build to order?????

[tjblair]

Sorry, wish we did.

[tjblair]

Maybe try an give ECGS a shout.

[Deadman 94 xj]

Damn....See? Leaf springs are where its's at!!! :icon_butt:

Chris, the XJ looks killer.

[PatF10]

Damn....See? Leaf springs are where its's at!!! :icon_butt:

Chris, the XJ looks killer.


agreed if I ever find another jeep to build I think ill keep it leaf. at least for a while

[Krod]

Maybe try an give ECGS a shout.

Already did. They've always done me right before.

I have one on order through poly but everyone seems to Drop ship unless it's a dana 30/35 part lol.

No worries. If it shows up we'll get it together and try to make it, if not I'll see you guys on a later run. I'm going to the invasion either way to check everyone else's junk out. Think they'll notice if I being the wrx? lol

[tjblair]

Was this t&t truss that you broke as well?

[Krod]

No this was my design. 2x4x.187 rectangle cut to the profile and welded. It was just too thin and broke right where I would expect, even with a fish plate to double up the thickness on the bridge.

I think Chris was asking because we did a TnT on his HP44 and we started second guessing the strength of that design after seeing how mine broke and remembering your issue.

[tjblair]

If you haven't seen the artec truss in person they are stout. Did you order the over axle truss of the huge ram mount truss. Both are nice. I just went with the simple over axle truss. It is all 3/8 and 1/4. Beefey stuff.

[Krod]

Just the bridge for now. I'm still on a 2" ram assist and box. Might go full hydro later, but I can always add the ram mount at that point.

[jopickens]

Wild... post detailed carnage pics when you get a chance!
Josh

[jeepxj3]

Damn... Makes me almost wish I never bought a house! LOL

[Krod]

Finally getting around to going through my pics from this year...



My driveshafts hate me LOL
http://i271.photobucket.com/albums/jj136/satnav9r20/Jeep%20YJ%20Rebuild/2014-06-13102131_zps057b6ebf.jpg (http://s271.photobucket.com/user/satnav9r20/media/Jeep%20YJ%20Rebuild/2014-06-13102131_zps057b6ebf.jpg.html)




...After that fiasco, I got it back together with an ARTEC truss and some new FOX coil-overs for the front. Made it to the Jeep invasion for the Bantam Heritage Festival. Road tires HA!

http://i271.photobucket.com/albums/jj136/satnav9r20/Jeep%20YJ%20Rebuild/2014-06-13203034-2_zpsa4a36b6c.jpg (http://s271.photobucket.com/user/satnav9r20/media/Jeep%20YJ%20Rebuild/2014-06-13203034-2_zpsa4a36b6c.jpg.html)


Added some LED rock lights to make it nicer getting on/off the trailer at night.
http://i271.photobucket.com/albums/jj136/satnav9r20/Jeep%20YJ%20Rebuild/2014-09-19204413_zps8791cf06.jpg (http://s271.photobucket.com/user/satnav9r20/media/Jeep%20YJ%20Rebuild/2014-09-19204413_zps8791cf06.jpg.html)


Trailer Queens
http://i271.photobucket.com/albums/jj136/satnav9r20/Jeep%20YJ%20Rebuild/20140927_145710_zpse62d8edd.jpg (http://s271.photobucket.com/user/satnav9r20/media/Jeep%20YJ%20Rebuild/20140927_145710_zpse62d8edd.jpg.html)






We did some wheeling this fall out at Rock Run for a few shakedown runs. Nothing finds gremlins like blasting down rocky coal haul roads that have been washed out over the years. A few loose connections and one lost brake caliper retaining clip set me back the first trip. These pics are from the second trip we took towards the end of the season with PatF10 and XJChris98.


http://i271.photobucket.com/albums/jj136/satnav9r20/Jeep%20YJ%20Rebuild/2014-10-25160821_zpsb2c46a73.jpg (http://s271.photobucket.com/user/satnav9r20/media/Jeep%20YJ%20Rebuild/2014-10-25160821_zpsb2c46a73.jpg.html)


Good to have Chris' XJ back on the trails. This thing is sweet. True 3-link front, ORI's, RCV's in the Ford D44 locked F/R. Good balanced setup on 36's and should be bulletproof. While I'm not a big fan of exo-cages, this one is tight to the body and already saved the roof once.
http://i271.photobucket.com/albums/jj136/satnav9r20/Jeep%20YJ%20Rebuild/2014-10-25140911_zpsd0174d5d.jpg (http://s271.photobucket.com/user/satnav9r20/media/Jeep%20YJ%20Rebuild/2014-10-25140911_zpsd0174d5d.jpg.html)


Pat's new YJ works awesome. Typical Pat, point and shoot.
http://i271.photobucket.com/albums/jj136/satnav9r20/Jeep%20YJ%20Rebuild/2014-10-25142106_zpse5d6090c.jpg (http://s271.photobucket.com/user/satnav9r20/media/Jeep%20YJ%20Rebuild/2014-10-25142106_zpse5d6090c.jpg.html)


SERIOUS FACE!!! :042:
http://i271.photobucket.com/albums/jj136/satnav9r20/Jeep%20YJ%20Rebuild/2014-10-25155819-1_zpsf7c0c0d2.jpg (http://s271.photobucket.com/user/satnav9r20/media/Jeep%20YJ%20Rebuild/2014-10-25155819-1_zpsf7c0c0d2.jpg.html)

[Deadman 94 xj]

Great pics and absolutely love the YJ man. That thing is bad ass. I cant wait to finally get mine out on the trails.

[justin'sbig7]

Looking good!

[Krod]

Great pics and absolutely love the YJ man. That thing is bad ass. I cant wait to finally get mine out on the trails.

You definitely need to bring the cj when we go out next time.