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Sloth_Fratelli
11-05-2009, 08:05 PM
so i was on my way back to my apartment on monday and my XJ started making a rumbling noise like nobodys business on the highway. i pulled over to look at it and saw that one of my rear leaf springs bends two ways-one end curvs up and the other curvs down- and the whole leaf on the other side looks like it was put on upside down. thats when i remembered right before i bought the jeep the guy said id need new leafs... damnit i forgot haha. anybody know if i can fix this easy or if not where i can get some good cheap ones? im thinkin about just not wheeling and just deal with it till i can just buy a lift since im gonna be changing them anyway. any opinions? and is this something i can fix in the parking lot? the haynes manual made it sound easy but it makes a total teardown and rebuild sound easy too:disgust:

limegreentj
11-05-2009, 08:10 PM
if you know a guy with a press you can re arch them...my dad did it to his 54 chevy...ill see if i can find a link

ridgerunner97
11-05-2009, 08:19 PM
Greensburg Machine and Driveline can do the rearch, price isn't bad either, I forget what mine cost. I know they were cheaper than new leaf springs :) too bad it isn't spring time id sell ya mine but i don't have my new packs yet out back.

Do any of the springs look broken? If so you will get into a lil bit more cost replacing the broken leaf. try to get a pic of how bad they are.

Sloth_Fratelli
11-05-2009, 08:22 PM
ill try to get one up tomorrow but its makin the jeep sag so its hidden behind the tire. is there a good place to lift the body for a pic? my drivers manual says to put the jack under the axle which i still dont get

limegreentj
11-05-2009, 08:26 PM
here is the link to how my dad re arched his...his post is post #12

http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?p=4462781#post4462781

ridgerunner97
11-05-2009, 08:27 PM
ah just shove the cam up under there sumwhere's and snap a few :) and the question about doing it in a parking lot, are you askin pullin the leafs out? If so you can do it with handtools, but you will need a decent length breaker bar and probably sum pipe to extend it with, the nuts inside the front spring hangers that are welded to the inside of the unirail will break off, when they do you have two options, a torch or an angle grinder, i prefer angle grinder to grind we access holes in the bottom of the unirail so that you can get a wrench up in there and get the bolts out. Its definately a BITCH but it could be done in a parking lot without to much of a problem, I did mine in a gravel driveway, id have killed for a piece of blacktop :thumbsup:

Dragonslayer
11-05-2009, 08:29 PM
one of my rear leaf springs bends two ways-one end curvs up and the other curvs down


Chances are that this one is broken, tread lightly young jedi.

village_idiot
11-05-2009, 08:41 PM
if you want to lift it cheaply, i got some s10 leaf springs sittin around, you can have em for 25 bucks

Sloth_Fratelli
11-05-2009, 08:45 PM
will they fit without alot of dicking around? i dont have like any of my tools at my apartment

ridgerunner97
11-05-2009, 08:46 PM
Before you ask, the s10 lift should net ya around 4in depending. leave xj main leaf on cherokee, use the rest of the s10 leaves including the main with the eyes cut off, ditch number of leaves to get it to ride and sit where you want it all depends how you want it. Ive read alot about it and almost went that way with my XJ, you can also use dakota leafs. You'd need a longer rear brakeline, one from a dakota works, front lift coils, front brake lines, straighten the hard lines and that should do it, and get an alignment, if you want to do it right get an adjustable trackbar and longer swaybar end links or make spacers to lower the swaybar mounts down to keep the swaybar in the proper geometry. If anyone else has anything to add feel free, i'm probably forgetting something.

Sloth_Fratelli
11-05-2009, 08:48 PM
damnit im just learning still, which is the main leaf? the PBR ainthelping this

ridgerunner97
11-05-2009, 08:59 PM
LOL PBR nice! the main leaf is the one with the little rubber things called bushings in the ends of it :overkill: they attach to the jeep at the shackle the attachment point towards the rear of the vehicle and towards the front of the vehicle at the spring hanger. PM mykal he knows exactly what ya need to do to do this s10 bastard lift, tell him I sent ya :)

Sloth_Fratelli
11-05-2009, 09:05 PM
haha okay thanks the simple talk is what i needed

Krod
11-05-2009, 09:08 PM
Ok before you get too deep into this, lets go over a few things that no one has mentioned.

1. You'll need some tall jack stands to swap/replace the springs. The stands will have to sit on the uni-frame, while the rear axle is unloaded to remove the springs from the hangers/shackles.

2. Find a pair of Junkyard springs. no reason not to go with those (or other peoples non-abused stockers) until you get your spring packs. Thats only if you KNOW you're going to get some new ones soon.

3. You'll need new U-bolts and nuts

its not a terrible impossible job, just takes time and some buddies to help move things around.

Sloth_Fratelli
11-05-2009, 09:12 PM
i have a friend that can help me and i plan on getting the lift in the spring or summer, im working on bumpers/tow points first. im at 99.9% stock right now, with the .1% being my bumper sticker.

ridgerunner97
11-05-2009, 09:23 PM
Thanks for that input Krod, slipped my mind to remember the basic stuff needed, i'm gettin excited and its not even mine, love when someone is talking about building an XJ :)

Krod
11-05-2009, 09:37 PM
Thanks for that input Krod, slipped my mind to remember the basic stuff needed, i'm gettin excited and its not even mine, love when someone is talking about building an XJ :)

lol

Just want the guy to know what he's getting into. The Haynes manual is not the place to learn that Gravity is a bitch.

ridgerunner97
11-05-2009, 10:03 PM
LMAO that is for damn sure.

Sycotik Skier
11-05-2009, 10:29 PM
gravity is always holding me down. replacing leaves isn't too god awful bad. JUST MAKE SURE TO REPLACE YOUR U BOLTS!!!!!!!!!!!!! Do not reuse the old ones.

Mykal
11-05-2009, 10:40 PM
Being pre '97 you can go up to about 4" and more then likely not need a SYE. Stay under 3.5" and you wont.

Get some mid 90's dakota packs. Use your XJ main and the entire dakota pack under that. Cut the Eyes off the Dakota main to leave a little overlap to prevent your XJ main from wrapping it. Cut the dakota overload leaf to about an inch longer on both sides of the spring perch. The overload leaf will prevent flex. Cutting it down acts as a very small block and prevents axle wrap.
$50 for dakota packs

You can use S10 packs as well for more lift and a stiffer ride. Same years.

Use a Dakota rear brake line. Ill give ya the NAPA part number I used if you want. Its good for up to 6" of lift.
$15

That will sit you at about 4" in the back with a flat XJ main leaf.

In front.
Straighten your hard lines out and remount them.
You can use V8 ZJ coils for a 1" lift and then 2" pucks on that.
or you can use f150 springs, (Ill get the years later). They give you 3" but they are VERY stiff from everything I have read.

OR just get some Rustys Heavy Duty 3" coils. I think I got 4" out of mine and they are not sagging at all, flex great, and ride pretty good in my opinion.
New - $120ish I think
Old Man Emu springs are some of the best flexing/riding springs you can get.

Trac bar. Up to 3" you dont need one.
After that, you can deal with it being a hair off
Or you can redrill the hole on the axle mount and reinforce it with welded washers and use your stock one.
Or you can get an adjustable. I went with Iron Rock Offroad. $170 shipped I think. Pure beef. Double shear will allow more flex and costs about $40 or so more.

Shocks.
Black Diamond are cheap and are supposed to ride really well.
I wouldnt cheap out on shocks if you want a decent ride though. I love my Rubicon Express shocks.
Old Man Emu and Bilstein are top of the line and not that badly priced.
You can also use stock JK Rubicon shocks for up to 3"
If you make bar pin eliminators out of angle iron then you can use them for up to 4"-4.5" I can provide a how to link if you want. Its simple.

Of course with all of this if you want to run a 33" you will need to trim your front fender and cut and fold you rears and get some wheels with around 4" of backspacing.

The WJ LCA's are good for clearance since they have a bend in the middle and they are boxed versus the stamped metal of stock XJ's but after 3" they are worthless. They start to bend, like mine. You can usually pick them up for around $50

You can throw 1" square tube under factory bumpstops in the rear to help.
You can use hockey pucks up front.

Anything else?

Sloth_Fratelli
11-05-2009, 10:53 PM
that sounds actually pretty good and managable, i guess this is a good excuse to go with a lift haha. you think i could get this done in a week if i got all the parts in hand? and lemme know when you get those f-150 years i think ill go with this. sounds alot better than paying again for a lift kit in a few months

village_idiot
11-05-2009, 10:57 PM
Anything else?
your forgetting to tell him how bad ass his xj will look with a lift and some 33's

Mykal
11-05-2009, 11:02 PM
You could do it in a week working on it a few hours a night. Start shooting PB Blaster on every nut and bolt that you are going to loosen right now. It will really help you out. Also buy some anti-seize and put it on the threads of the bolts you put back in. It will help you down the road.

'65-'79 F100 & F250 or '75-'79 F150's. Check Advance Auto for new ones. They shouldnt cost that much from what I have heard.

Heres what I used.
Rustys 3" HD Front Coils (http://rustysoffroad.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=RC-CS305-XJ&Category_Code=COILS).
Iron Rock Offroads Adjustable Trackbar (http://www.ironrockoffroad.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=IROR&Product_Code=IR-X_ATB). Good for 3" to 7".
Dodge Dakota Rear Brake Hose (http://www.napaonline.com/NOLPPSE/%28S%28jzjn2r45gr5pw445x1j5a355%29%29/Detail.aspx?R=UBP38636_0238356604) (Part number - 38636) from Napa. Good for up to 6" of lift.
Ubolts made at Uniontown Auto Spring Co (http://maps.google.com/maps?oe=utf-8&rlz=1R1GGGL_en___US319&client=firefox-a&um=1&ie=UTF-8&q=Uniontown+Spring&fb=1&split=1&gl=us&view=text&latlng=11330092386208432326) for cheap. $5 a piece. Dimensions are 3" diameter x 9" long x 1/2 thick bolt for the 8.25 axle.
8 standard spring clamps.

i love sedagons
11-05-2009, 11:05 PM
for the rear shocks u can also use a mid 90s chevy 1500 rear shock. you will just have to take your stock bar pin and press it into the new shock. i believe they are a good 3 to 4" longer than a stock xj rear shock

Mykal
11-05-2009, 11:11 PM
good point. I forgot about those.

Dragonslayer
11-06-2009, 05:55 AM
Hmmm? You guy's forgot ONE important tool.

Being a '96, you're more than likely gonna need a hot wrench for those rear spring bolts. I PB'd mine for a month before I did my lift and still had to use the hot wrench.

Mykal
11-06-2009, 01:33 PM
No need to take them off he is building a bastard pack. He just needs to drop the axle away from the pack. Seperate the pack while its still on the vehicle. Add the Dakota pack under the main leaf and then clamp them together.

gonecheenin
11-06-2009, 02:52 PM
No need to take them off he is building a bastard pack. He just needs to drop the axle away from the pack. Seperate the pack while its still on the vehicle. Add the Dakota pack under the main leaf and then clamp them together.


X2

Way easier then messing with siezed spring mounting bolts.

gonecheenin
11-06-2009, 02:56 PM
BTW: you can get 3" spacers for on top of your front springs for $50 from Fat Bob's garage on ebay.

Those combined with 3" bumpstop extensions will do the trick for a light duty trail rig

Dragonslayer
11-06-2009, 04:58 PM
No need to take them off he is building a bastard pack. He just needs to drop the axle away from the pack. Seperate the pack while its still on the vehicle. Add the Dakota pack under the main leaf and then clamp them together.


Ahh OK, I got's ya, but what if one of his mains are broke? He did say one side the the front of the spring arches up and the rear of the spring arches down or vice versa. I guess it's possible tho, that it's not broken. Just sound's like it would be to me.

Mykal
11-06-2009, 05:55 PM
Just warped so were mine. They will be fine. Not ideal but doable. The stiffer leafs will help with that.

Sloth_Fratelli
11-15-2009, 04:36 AM
so those leaf springs just gave out a couple of hours ago, then on my way to zelie to get something to wedge between the body and the axle so i could make it home i dropped a rear driveshaft. i currently have $2 and some change in the jeep, and a check for $25, and im inbetween jobs. its gonna be a fun couple of months.

limegreentj
11-15-2009, 11:23 AM
been there man.....i think the majority of us have....when it rains it pours....good luck...you need anything?

jim91303
11-15-2009, 12:48 PM
if ya run 33'' tires ..... you better reweld the axle tubes . and an axle back bone anit a bad idea .... if using a stock dana 35

cityslicker
11-15-2009, 01:01 PM
Being pre '97 you can go up to about 4" and more then likely not need a SYE. Stay under 3.5" and you wont.

Get some mid 90's dakota packs. Use your XJ main and the entire dakota pack under that. Cut the Eyes off the Dakota main to leave a little overlap to prevent your XJ main from wrapping it. Cut the dakota overload leaf to about an inch longer on both sides of the spring perch. The overload leaf will prevent flex. Cutting it down acts as a very small block and prevents axle wrap.
$50 for dakota packs

You can use S10 packs as well for more lift and a stiffer ride. Same years.

Use a Dakota rear brake line. Ill give ya the NAPA part number I used if you want. Its good for up to 6" of lift.
$15

That will sit you at about 4" in the back with a flat XJ main leaf.

In front.
Straighten your hard lines out and remount them.
You can use V8 ZJ coils for a 1" lift and then 2" pucks on that.
or you can use f150 springs, (Ill get the years later). They give you 3" but they are VERY stiff from everything I have read.

OR just get some Rustys Heavy Duty 3" coils. I think I got 4" out of mine and they are not sagging at all, flex great, and ride pretty good in my opinion.
New - $120ish I think
Old Man Emu springs are some of the best flexing/riding springs you can get.

Trac bar. Up to 3" you dont need one.
After that, you can deal with it being a hair off
Or you can redrill the hole on the axle mount and reinforce it with welded washers and use your stock one.
Or you can get an adjustable. I went with Iron Rock Offroad. $170 shipped I think. Pure beef. Double shear will allow more flex and costs about $40 or so more.

Shocks.
Black Diamond are cheap and are supposed to ride really well.
I wouldnt cheap out on shocks if you want a decent ride though. I love my Rubicon Express shocks.
Old Man Emu and Bilstein are top of the line and not that badly priced.
You can also use stock JK Rubicon shocks for up to 3"
If you make bar pin eliminators out of angle iron then you can use them for up to 4"-4.5" I can provide a how to link if you want. Its simple.

Of course with all of this if you want to run a 33" you will need to trim your front fender and cut and fold you rears and get some wheels with around 4" of backspacing.

The WJ LCA's are good for clearance since they have a bend in the middle and they are boxed versus the stamped metal of stock XJ's but after 3" they are worthless. They start to bend, like mine. You can usually pick them up for around $50

You can throw 1" square tube under factory bumpstops in the rear to help.
You can use hockey pucks up front.

Anything else?


who buttoned your lip before I was doing my Xj huh!

thats a good system worked out there.

But the guy will need longer discos too..... and on a xj that old He'll end up needing to run new break line under the length of his truck when the rusted old one snaps trying to put the new soft lines in the back.

Have a torch handy too.....
Esp if your going to use a t case drop.. which eveyone will tell you not to do.... but For those who can't afford an SYE right away the drop kit works great, as long as you have 6 degree shims in the back...

Sloth_Fratelli
11-15-2009, 06:53 PM
ill be fine, ill just try to borrow my dads camry for a while if i can haha.

Mykal
11-15-2009, 07:47 PM
who buttoned your lip before I was doing my Xj huh!

thats a good system worked out there.

But the guy will need longer discos too..... and on a xj that old He'll end up needing to run new break line under the length of his truck when the rusted old one snaps trying to put the new soft lines in the back.

Have a torch handy too.....
Esp if your going to use a t case drop.. which eveyone will tell you not to do.... but For those who can't afford an SYE right away the drop kit works great, as long as you have 6 degree shims in the back...


I must have missed your post. Sorry.

I forgot about disconnects. Theres quite a few ways to do that if you want to keep it cheap.

Agreed on the hard lines. I replaced mine all the way back to within about 3 of the block.

I didnt use a torch for anything. PB blaster was enough, thankfully.
I also didnt need a TC drop or shims with mine. No vibes at all. I gots lucky! Id try it without and see how it rides, then add them later if need be.