Dozer45
11-22-2009, 03:24 AM
I figured i would do a write up on this since i searched and searched and couldnt find a write up worth much to me, so here goes...
The front flares are held on with metal brackets which are bolted to the sheet metal fender. in trying to remove the bolts inside the wheel well, most of the bolts broke off
http://photos-b.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc3/hs114.snc3/16132_10100157509786014_9334140_64305869_949774_n. jpg
The metal bracket that holds the flare to the body
Once you remove the flares, you will see the area where the flair is mounted to, put masking tape just above where the fender bulges out, because this is where you will be making your cuts.
http://photos-e.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc3/hs094.snc3/16132_10100157509661264_9334140_64305847_3106604_n .jpg
pretty self explanatory once you pull the flare off
Now this is where it got exciting to me, the part where i get to make the final decision whether or not i want to take a cutting device into my jeep; and i definetly wanted to. I used a sawzall, a lot of people use an angle grinder with a cut-off wheel.
http://photos-a.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc3/hs094.snc3/16132_10100157509681224_9334140_64305851_5468980_n .jpgIm obviously disturbed in one way or another
When you are cutting the driver side wheel well bigger, you need to be EXTREMELY CAREFUL that you dont cut into your washer fluid bottle. it is almost flush with the cutting line, so when you are close to it, aim your blade down so you miss it.
http://photos-h.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc3/hs114.snc3/16132_10100157509751084_9334140_64305863_3557755_n .jpg
the blue thing is your windshield washer fluid resevoir, or whiskey holder (after you re-route the squirter lines into the cab)
Aeound the corners is too tight to make with the sawzall i used, so in order for it to be smooth, you need to make relief cuts.
http://photos-e.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc3/hs094.snc3/16132_10100157509696194_9334140_64305853_5243799_n .jpg
Again, watch the bottle behind the fender, and the electronics connected to the bottom of it as well.
once you have the relief cuts put in, start roundin the bend, and follow the cut all the way to the bottom of the sheet metal. At this point, I opted to cut my plastic corners so that it looked more natural.
http://photos-c.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc3/hs094.snc3/16132_10100157509686214_9334140_64305852_674373_n. jpg
This was also an area of major rubbage with bigger tires.
After the cutting your wheel well should look something like this...
http://photos-c.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc3/hs094.snc3/16132_10100157509731124_9334140_64305859_2925581_n .jpg
So after the cutting, you are going to need to use a grinder, or sanding device of some sort to smooth out the burrs, and pits and what not that the cutter left behind. A few smooth passes with the grinder and your in tip top shape.
http://photos-f.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc3/hs114.snc3/16132_10100157509736114_9334140_64305860_6533588_n .jpg
Always wear eye protection
With bare metal now exposed, you want to paint where you just cut so rust doesnt ruin your day a few months later. So leave the masking tape there, and hit it with some rustoleum. My paint job on this side of my jeep was sub-par, but it got the job done. The other side was perfect for you information (sarcasm). Either way, the flare will cover it up.
http://photos-g.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc3/hs094.snc3/16132_10100157509771044_9334140_64305867_4264673_n .jpg
Im no artist to say the least
Now you are going to have to go back to your flares, and the metal bracket that they attatch to. Grind off the remaining threads that were left from when you broke the bolts off taking the flare off the body. put the flare up to your newly cut wheel well and size up where you can attach the flare with some new nuts, bolts and washers. I fastened the fender with 6 bolts per flare. I drilled where i marked with a silver sharpy on the metal brackets.
http://photos-g.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc3/hs094.snc3/16132_10100157509830924_9334140_64305878_6546129_n .jpg
Put a piece of wood behind where you are drilling.
To know where exactly you are going to drill into your fender, put the fender where you want it, and where there are holes that you drilled in the bracket, what i did was bend a regular nail at 90 degrees, put it through my newly drilled holes in the bracket and scratch my paint on the fender. Where there is a scratch is where you drill a hole in your fender, simple as that.
http://photos-d.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc3/hs114.snc3/16132_10100157509840904_9334140_64305880_6616185_n .jpgStart slow so the drill bit doest walk around on you.
KEEP IN MIND THE WASHER FLUID BOTTLE. When drilling in that general area on the driver's side, put a block of wood between the fender and the bottle, so you dont punch through the hard metal, and accidentally through the soft plastic resevoir.
I have moulding, so i needed to trim my flares in order to be flush with the body when i mounted them.
http://photos-b.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc3/hs114.snc3/16132_10100157509855874_9334140_64305883_2830794_n .jpg
Dremel worked wonders in this specific application.
You will also have to cut off the bottom of the flair, because it will no longer be wrapping around your rocker.
http://photos-c.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc3/hs094.snc3/16132_10100157509865854_9334140_64305884_5476189_n .jpg
Once you get it all flushed up to the body, tighten up your mounting bolts, and watch it come together, I sprayed the newly cut fender and mounting area once more with some rustoleum to make sure its sealed up.
http://photos-e.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc3/hs094.snc3/16132_10100157509870844_9334140_64305885_7827594_n .jpg
Finished Product!!!
Overall it was a fun afternoon project, it took me a few hours, but i had to run all over town for hardware, sawzall blades and other tools to borrow from friends.
It cost me 5 dollars to do, 2 for a blade and 3 for hardware. and now there is no rubbing at full flex, and i couldnt be happier with the look of it. Any questions or comments, let me know. Thanks
Special thanks goes out to Jon (RidgeRunner) and my neighbor Chad (Chaddb9)
2" lift
31x10.5 mud terrains
4" backspaced Soft 8's
http://photos-g.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc3/hs094.snc3/16132_10100157509875834_9334140_64305886_5260022_n .jpg
http://photos-e.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc3/hs094.snc3/16132_10100157509915754_9334140_64305891_7174051_n .jpg
The front flares are held on with metal brackets which are bolted to the sheet metal fender. in trying to remove the bolts inside the wheel well, most of the bolts broke off
http://photos-b.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc3/hs114.snc3/16132_10100157509786014_9334140_64305869_949774_n. jpg
The metal bracket that holds the flare to the body
Once you remove the flares, you will see the area where the flair is mounted to, put masking tape just above where the fender bulges out, because this is where you will be making your cuts.
http://photos-e.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc3/hs094.snc3/16132_10100157509661264_9334140_64305847_3106604_n .jpg
pretty self explanatory once you pull the flare off
Now this is where it got exciting to me, the part where i get to make the final decision whether or not i want to take a cutting device into my jeep; and i definetly wanted to. I used a sawzall, a lot of people use an angle grinder with a cut-off wheel.
http://photos-a.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc3/hs094.snc3/16132_10100157509681224_9334140_64305851_5468980_n .jpgIm obviously disturbed in one way or another
When you are cutting the driver side wheel well bigger, you need to be EXTREMELY CAREFUL that you dont cut into your washer fluid bottle. it is almost flush with the cutting line, so when you are close to it, aim your blade down so you miss it.
http://photos-h.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc3/hs114.snc3/16132_10100157509751084_9334140_64305863_3557755_n .jpg
the blue thing is your windshield washer fluid resevoir, or whiskey holder (after you re-route the squirter lines into the cab)
Aeound the corners is too tight to make with the sawzall i used, so in order for it to be smooth, you need to make relief cuts.
http://photos-e.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc3/hs094.snc3/16132_10100157509696194_9334140_64305853_5243799_n .jpg
Again, watch the bottle behind the fender, and the electronics connected to the bottom of it as well.
once you have the relief cuts put in, start roundin the bend, and follow the cut all the way to the bottom of the sheet metal. At this point, I opted to cut my plastic corners so that it looked more natural.
http://photos-c.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc3/hs094.snc3/16132_10100157509686214_9334140_64305852_674373_n. jpg
This was also an area of major rubbage with bigger tires.
After the cutting your wheel well should look something like this...
http://photos-c.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc3/hs094.snc3/16132_10100157509731124_9334140_64305859_2925581_n .jpg
So after the cutting, you are going to need to use a grinder, or sanding device of some sort to smooth out the burrs, and pits and what not that the cutter left behind. A few smooth passes with the grinder and your in tip top shape.
http://photos-f.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc3/hs114.snc3/16132_10100157509736114_9334140_64305860_6533588_n .jpg
Always wear eye protection
With bare metal now exposed, you want to paint where you just cut so rust doesnt ruin your day a few months later. So leave the masking tape there, and hit it with some rustoleum. My paint job on this side of my jeep was sub-par, but it got the job done. The other side was perfect for you information (sarcasm). Either way, the flare will cover it up.
http://photos-g.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc3/hs094.snc3/16132_10100157509771044_9334140_64305867_4264673_n .jpg
Im no artist to say the least
Now you are going to have to go back to your flares, and the metal bracket that they attatch to. Grind off the remaining threads that were left from when you broke the bolts off taking the flare off the body. put the flare up to your newly cut wheel well and size up where you can attach the flare with some new nuts, bolts and washers. I fastened the fender with 6 bolts per flare. I drilled where i marked with a silver sharpy on the metal brackets.
http://photos-g.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc3/hs094.snc3/16132_10100157509830924_9334140_64305878_6546129_n .jpg
Put a piece of wood behind where you are drilling.
To know where exactly you are going to drill into your fender, put the fender where you want it, and where there are holes that you drilled in the bracket, what i did was bend a regular nail at 90 degrees, put it through my newly drilled holes in the bracket and scratch my paint on the fender. Where there is a scratch is where you drill a hole in your fender, simple as that.
http://photos-d.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc3/hs114.snc3/16132_10100157509840904_9334140_64305880_6616185_n .jpgStart slow so the drill bit doest walk around on you.
KEEP IN MIND THE WASHER FLUID BOTTLE. When drilling in that general area on the driver's side, put a block of wood between the fender and the bottle, so you dont punch through the hard metal, and accidentally through the soft plastic resevoir.
I have moulding, so i needed to trim my flares in order to be flush with the body when i mounted them.
http://photos-b.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc3/hs114.snc3/16132_10100157509855874_9334140_64305883_2830794_n .jpg
Dremel worked wonders in this specific application.
You will also have to cut off the bottom of the flair, because it will no longer be wrapping around your rocker.
http://photos-c.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc3/hs094.snc3/16132_10100157509865854_9334140_64305884_5476189_n .jpg
Once you get it all flushed up to the body, tighten up your mounting bolts, and watch it come together, I sprayed the newly cut fender and mounting area once more with some rustoleum to make sure its sealed up.
http://photos-e.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc3/hs094.snc3/16132_10100157509870844_9334140_64305885_7827594_n .jpg
Finished Product!!!
Overall it was a fun afternoon project, it took me a few hours, but i had to run all over town for hardware, sawzall blades and other tools to borrow from friends.
It cost me 5 dollars to do, 2 for a blade and 3 for hardware. and now there is no rubbing at full flex, and i couldnt be happier with the look of it. Any questions or comments, let me know. Thanks
Special thanks goes out to Jon (RidgeRunner) and my neighbor Chad (Chaddb9)
2" lift
31x10.5 mud terrains
4" backspaced Soft 8's
http://photos-g.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc3/hs094.snc3/16132_10100157509875834_9334140_64305886_5260022_n .jpg
http://photos-e.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc3/hs094.snc3/16132_10100157509915754_9334140_64305891_7174051_n .jpg