D300 tech help

[tjblair]

Ok so I got a D300 to start on my 231/300 doubler. (thanks again Chris) I started to tear it down to modify the shift rails. I have been into lots of 231's and a few 203'and 205's. The d300 seems to be fairly straight forward. But I do have one question so far. Does anyone know to get the shift rails out of the aluminum housing?

By the way this is the Mod I am doing
http://www.4x4wire.com/tech/dana300/

[tjblair]

http://i475.photobucket.com/albums/rr115/tjblair/D300/03191021191.jpg
http://i475.photobucket.com/albums/rr115/tjblair/D300/03191021441.jpg
here is what it looks like so far.

and this is the housing I speak of .
http://i475.photobucket.com/albums/rr115/tjblair/D300/03191021451.jpg
http://i475.photobucket.com/albums/rr115/tjblair/D300/0319102145a1.jpg

[dan58]

Why are you modifying the shift rails? I can't see any need for that?????

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=754931

[tjblair]

I figured that. But how.

[joker291977]

this might help http://www.rockcrawler.com/techreports/jb_lomax/index.asp

[tjblair]

I saw Two little indentations near where the 4wd indicatior switch goes in. But I rooted around in there with a pick and couldn't figure out what to do to get them out.

[dan58]

Question....why are you trying to get them out? You don't need to modify them except for front hi. See PBB link above.

[tjblair]

For front Hi

[tjblair]

this might help http://www.rockcrawler.com/techreports/jb_lomax/index.asp
Thank you this is very helpfull.

[joker291977]

no prob jeff did u get it out

[dan58]

For front Hi

Why? I can't think of a time you'd ever use it, and it *does* have the potential for <BOOM> in a big way.

Dude, just leave it alone. :111:

[tjblair]

Im done for tonight I'll give it a go tomorow.

[tjblair]

Why? I can't think of a time you'd ever use it, and it *does* have the potential for <BOOM> in a big way.

Dude, just leave it alone. :111:

You can, however, do a little bit of grinding on the rear shift rail that will allow FWD Hi range while still preventing the possibility of binding up the case. But why? Well, if you're just running the D300 alone, then it probably won't do a whole lot for you. But, suppose you're running a crawler box with it's reduction engaged and the D300 in Hi. Normally, you can't just pull the rear output into Neutral to do a front dig. You need to do some more shifting, putting the D300 into FWD low, maybe disengaging the crawler box and/or picking a gearing that is less than optimal to do the dig. With this mod, you can just slip the rear output into Neutral and pound away.

[dan58]

Remember, there will be VERY few times when you'd run the 231 in low and the 300 in hi. I'd avoid that at ALL costs. When does the D300 explode? When it's seeing a double tq input. Run the 300 in low at all times when crawling. Add the 231 when it's tough stuff. Just no need for this mod and the risk that it brings.

[Christopher]

Jeff you may be fighting the pills you are trying to remove or the detent balls under the shift rails. I just removed a set of shift rods with a poly dead blow hammer. there are 3 detent positions, and 2 pills.
Try starting with both rods in the same position and tap one all the way out . I have a picture of them but I cannot post it I could email it to you

And I would heed dan58's advice be carefull

[tjblair]

After much reading this morning, I have come to the same concluson as Dan that it is probably not worth my time and energy to modify the shift rails. I'll just replace the missing shift fork pads and slap it back together with all new seals. But all of that reading has raised a few more questions.

I believe it was Krod that suggested double sealing the shift rods when fliping the 300. My question is how do they fit? Every write up I have seen says that the first seal should fit flush in the case and the second seal should sit in the seal retainer. The seals that I took out of this 300 do NOT sit flush in the case. So my question is, is ther a thinner seal that I need to find? Maybe someone here has a pic of this double seal set up.

My next question is, is the poping out of gear issue that big of a problem? Anyone running a 300 have a problem with this? Would it be worth my time to install stronger detent springs. I would hate to have to pull the t-case again just to put the stronger springs. And it probably wouldn't be that easy to do this in the vehicle.

I would rather do it right the first time, even if it takes a little longer to complete this install.


thanks for the input

jeff

[dan58]

That is exactly how my teammate did the double seals. You should really put new ones in there, especially since they cost so little. Two go inside the bearing retainer and sit flush. Two go inside the shifter retainer thing that bolts on to the retainer.

I ran for years without a shifter popping out. It started last year, only when in rear low going downhill. I replaced the springs while it was apart for the HD front upgrade. I would run it as is for now because you have no idea if it will happen. New springs does make it harder to shift.

[tjblair]

That is My question. The seals that came out do NOT set flush in the bearing retainer. You can't drive them in far enough. Ill ty to get a pic.

[tjblair]

Ths is the seal drivin in as far as it can go. Definitly not "flush".:022:
http://i475.photobucket.com/albums/rr115/tjblair/D300/03201009581.jpg

[tjblair]

On another note Im wondering if I should replace the shift rails all together. Because of all of the rust on the rail where the seal would ride. you can see this in the last pic.

[toocheaptosmoke]

When I first twin sticked my 300 it would occasionally pop out of gear. The cheap boot that I had was pulling on the levers, I cut the boot up to free things up and it hasn't done it since. (knock on wood) Just that little bit of tension would work it out of gear.

[Christopher]

I may be able to counter bore those deeper then it would move your seal surface off of the rust. I think the one I have the seals are almost flush.

.

[Christopher]

Update Can't bore seal area deep enough for two due to notches in Rod.
If you cannot get another seal into the steel shifter guide/retainer. It's possible to make a plate to extend forward that can be bolted in place and hold 2 more seals.
I'd be willing to bet it is the bad seal surface that makes most leak when upside down.

[tjblair]

Update Can't bore seal area deep enough for two due to notches in Rod.
If you cannot get another seal into the steel shifter guide/retainer. It's possible to make a plate to extend forward that can be bolted in place and hold 2 more seals.
I'd be willing to bet it is the bad seal surface that makes most leak when upside down.
I would agree with that. this is why I thought It might just be easier to replace the rods then maybe a single seal would do.

[Christopher]

Not sure who sells them
It's gonna be a while but I plan to make some shift rods for mine.

[tjblair]

Well I found the front one.

[tjblair]

Any one ever hear of these guys? It didn't seem like a bad Idea to me If I am going to replace both shift rods seals and all .
http://www.bulltear.com/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=164
I'll have to call them monday to get a price since they dont have a price listed on their site

[dan58]

Bulltear is good stuff. VERY good stuff for AMC. He goes by MC on pbb. I don't recall anyone using that kit, which is probably why it has no price (meaning, it's not available).

As for the seals, that's definitely not deep enough. They should be completely flush.

[tjblair]

Ill have to make sure tomorow but I'm 99% sure that's as far as you can drive them in. I think that the one in the pic is bottomed out.

[tjblair]

And I'm still worried about all the rust where the seal would ride. Hopefully bulltear has one of those avilable and it's not really expensive. That would fix the seal problem and make the cable shifters easy.

[dan58]

I wouldn't hold my breath. I'd just get a new shift rail if you're that worried about it.

[justin'sbig7]

i have ordered a few things from bulltear, great people to deal with. they make all of their own products there, so if they sell you the kit, it may take a lil while as some things they machine to order.