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tjblair
03-27-2010, 09:54 PM
I got started on the doubler today. First I got the 231 out of the jeep.
http://i475.photobucket.com/albums/rr115/tjblair/D300/03271018391.jpg
Then I got all of the junk out that I didn't need.
http://i475.photobucket.com/albums/rr115/tjblair/D300/03271020051.jpg
Next I decided to modift the shifter selector, so I didnt have to go through the extra clicks to go from hi to low I decided to take out the marked tooth.
http://i475.photobucket.com/albums/rr115/tjblair/D300/03271020061.jpg
Now It shifts right from hi to low.
http://i475.photobucket.com/albums/rr115/tjblair/D300/03271020081.jpg
Slaped it all back together to make sure the new shift rail and mid shaft fit and that it shifted all right.
http://i475.photobucket.com/albums/rr115/tjblair/D300/03271020131.jpg
Then it was time to test fit the d&d parts.
http://i475.photobucket.com/albums/rr115/tjblair/D300/03271020261.jpg
http://i475.photobucket.com/albums/rr115/tjblair/D300/0327102026a1.jpg
Then came the FUN part.:icon_kidra: Time to break out the sawzall and chop off the front output.:retard:
http://i475.photobucket.com/albums/rr115/tjblair/D300/03271020431.jpg
http://i475.photobucket.com/albums/rr115/tjblair/D300/0327102043a1.jpg
I left a good bit extra so it can be welded easily. And I will grind it down once it is welded. All that is left to do is grind the block off plate to fit and have someone Tig it in for me. Then it should be all ready for the D300 :gear_tounge:

Dick.Breakey
03-27-2010, 10:05 PM
i like the busch can next to it haha.

is all that pretty tedious or are the tolerances for error pretty large?

tjblair
03-27-2010, 10:08 PM
It's N/A busch. LOL
And It all seems to be going together just fine. So far it has been very easy.

ridgerunner97
03-27-2010, 10:23 PM
And It all seems to be going together just fine. So far it has been very easy.

Don't say that man...i'm gonna have mine in pieces in the driveway you keep posting shit like that :flipoff2:

tjblair
03-27-2010, 10:25 PM
don't say that man...i'm gonna have mine in pieces in the driveway you keep posting shit like that :flipoff2:
do it!

ridgerunner97
03-27-2010, 10:27 PM
Ive had it in the plans for the last year, I think I want it up another inch and sum armor then it will get the doubler. Unless a CJ i'm after comes into my lap for a smokin deal, then the XJ will be done and a DD :)

mxracer513
03-29-2010, 09:08 AM
Been wanting to see this done, there's not going to be any problems with it coming out of low since you took that tooth out?

ridgerunner97
03-29-2010, 09:56 AM
Been wanting to see this done, there's not going to be any problems with it coming out of low since you took that tooth out?

I think all he did was grind the tooth out for the neutral detent, you know how you can't pull straight back from 4H to 4L, I think he eliminated that, it should lock into 4L still and require a good bit of force to shift back into 2wd. (I could be wrong though, I have been before LOL)

tjblair
03-29-2010, 10:00 AM
Been wanting to see this done, there's not going to be any problems with it coming out of low since you took that tooth out?
No there won't be you can see the two v-notches at the ends. That is where the detent pill sits in hi and low. like Jon said all I did was removed the neutral and 4hi positions.

tjblair
04-04-2010, 07:11 PM
Ok, so I used a piece of foam to get the shape of the block off plate.
http://i475.photobucket.com/albums/rr115/tjblair/D300/03281010351.jpg
Then I had a shop tig it in for me.
http://i475.photobucket.com/albums/rr115/tjblair/D300/04041018471.jpg
I have come to the conclusion that I am going to have to flip the 231 crawl box, which is ok because it gives me more room for shifter brackets.
I was trying to come up with a simple way of shifting the 300. and this is what I came up with . I made a bracket that bolts to the two lower bolts on the front bearing retainer. then has a piece of 1/8 angle to anchor the cables to. and then I took some 1/4 in tabs and bent them straight down to connect to the cable. I think that this should work ok.
http://i475.photobucket.com/albums/rr115/tjblair/D300/04041018331.jpg
http://i475.photobucket.com/albums/rr115/tjblair/D300/04041018351.jpg
http://i475.photobucket.com/albums/rr115/tjblair/D300/04041018341.jpg

96greenxjjeep
04-04-2010, 08:40 PM
looks good man

Krod
04-04-2010, 08:52 PM
Nice Jeff.

Deadman 94 xj
04-04-2010, 08:59 PM
Very nice. It's going to be a lot of fun when you get it put together.

tjblair
04-04-2010, 09:04 PM
Thanks guys! Like I said, its nothing special on the shifter brackets. But I think that it will work. Now I just wave to figure out the crawlbox shifter.lol

96greenxjjeep
04-04-2010, 09:10 PM
outta be interesting

mxg342
04-05-2010, 07:33 AM
Just a thought but you may want to gusset the bent brackets going into the shift rails of the 300. You might get a little too much flex in those.

tjblair
04-05-2010, 07:38 AM
I thought about that too. And I may still add a gusset, But that is 1/4 plate and the cables I plan on getting are 50# cables Im not sure I will flex those with 50# of force. We will see If they flex, I will deinitly ad some gussets.

OverkillZJ
04-05-2010, 09:47 AM
Sweeet!

tjblair
06-17-2010, 11:04 PM
I thought I would update this.
I got it all finished up. I did do the mod to the front shift rail to get 2wd hi, mainly because I had the shift rails out to put in the new ones. Also I figured out how you fit two shift rail seals into a d300. You have to use d20 shift rail seals, they are skinnier than the d300 seals. the 50# cables I got from mcmaster carr worked out great. I made my own shifters and shifter housing(also worked out great). I did run into one problem with the spedo sensor though. I didn't think about the fact that the jeep does not like to run right without the speedo hooked up. I was just planing on leaving it unhooked since I dont drive it on the street anymore. but it threw a code and ran like shat. So I had to come up with somthing. The d300 that I am using is a short tailshaft d300. So it has the old style square drive type spedo sensor. after messing around with the stock 231 speed sensor I found that if you take the 10mm bolt out of the stock sensor and take the sensor apart it has a square drive in it which is turned by the gear at the end. So after I took the 231 sensor apart I just stuck the square drive from the disasembled 231 sensor and stuck it in the 300 sensor inlet. there was really no good EASY way to hold it there so I decided the just use aluminum foil tape like you would use on duct work to hold it in place. after about 4-5 layers of the foil tape the speed sensor wasn't moving any where. I know its kind of hack, but it worked and it held up on the trail last weekend. I'm also pretty sure it will stay water tight. After That I just had to have the drivshafts modified and it was done. Other than having to mod the BDS belly pan a little and build a rear support for the 300. I ended up using shock hourglass bushings for the mount and fabbing my own brackets.

In the end i couldn't be happier with the end result.( and I told everyone that would listen as much last weekend LOL) The 7:1 rocks. It will idle through most stuff in 1st or 2dn gear with the crawl box enguaged. I did get a chance to use the front dig, and of course the 2wdlow which I was already used to having. It never poped out of gear under throttle.It did once decending a hill I had the front disenguaged and the crawl box enguaged and the 300 poped out of rear drive. I dont think that I had it all of the way in gear. when it is in low low first gear is crazy low, and I found myself using 3rd or 4th sometimes. And somehow I managed to not break any of my stock shafts ( unlike someone else in my group, you know who you are.LOL)

So I would deffinitly recomend this mod to anyone looking for some deeper gearing. Ill break down the cost for any one wondering.
D&D 213 doubler kit $499
d300 $150 (price may vary)
3 50# push pull cables $150 (mcmaster carr)
d300 seal kit & d20 SHiftrail seals $30 (omix)
two new shift rails $70 (front one is REALLY hard to find, I had to order mine from Istambull LOL)
My time $ priceless LOL

and I had to have the drive shafts modified, and there were a few other small things but nothing major. still way less than an atlas and I still have the 263:1 low range plus the 7:1 with the crawl box enguaged. If you have any other questions on how the build went just ask away. I do have some other pics I just havent loaded them

tjblair
06-17-2010, 11:08 PM
oh yah, I had to get a new rear yoke the d300 yokes will not work with a double cardian ds. but I figured out that you can use stock 231 front yokes front and rear. and they are cheaper than the ones from advanced adapters that are actueally for the atlas. so tack on another $30.

justin'sbig7
06-18-2010, 12:29 AM
that popping out of gear on a downhill is normal. the more i read, all d300s do it. havent found much of a fix yet

tjblair
06-18-2010, 06:56 AM
thanks Justin. It wasn't really a big deal, it didn't even bang or make a loud noise. It really kind of sliped out of gear.