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wozz
07-29-2010, 08:56 PM
Well I'm away from my garage and my normal project so its time for a new one.

I wanted a model 700 chambered in 308 with a wood stock. Unfortunately this is no longer a production gun unless I would get a model seven instead of 700. I decided to go a different route and at the end I should have a great shooting and looking model 700. This will be used for hunting and light target duty. Here's the plan:

I bought a model 700 cdl with a beautiful stock chambered in 243. I really just bought the gun for the stock and short action receiver.

The gun is getting a custom barrel chambered in 308. The barrel was drilled today and should be in stress relief tonight. Hopefully it will be ready for ream and rifling tomorrow. Although I like the way a fluted barrel looks, after talking to some people at work I decided not to flute the barrel.

The other plans include truing the action, glass bed the stock, and probably a trigger job. I am learning a lot of this as I go so a huge thanks goes to the guys at work helping me with this.

I am undecided on what optics to get at this point.

I am really excited about this project. I have always thought a custom built gun would be cool. Here's my chance to get a custom gun and do the majority of the work on it myself. I can't wait to be shooting it and to be able to say I built this.

jlovbasz3
07-29-2010, 10:16 PM
Thats cool man!

busij44
07-29-2010, 10:44 PM
Lots of pics during the build and of finished product!!

jlovbasz3
07-29-2010, 11:16 PM
Id like a custom one day maybe .22-250 or something like that for whistle pigs!

joshs1ofakindxj
07-30-2010, 09:19 AM
Why did you decide against the fluted barrel? I know we talked about it one day. IIRC better cooling but not additional strength or something. The more high end target rifles I look at, I don't see mandatory fluted barrels or anything.

I would recommend a scope with at least 24x magnification.

Scopes are ridiculous. My neighbor bought a $2k Leupold scope for his Savage 308 target rifle, and I have a $70 Barska on my 223. Both are 6-24x50. The only difference is his scope is very sharp around the edges of his sight picture compared to mine, but the parallax and actual sight image appear to be the same. Also his scope has a lot more adjustment "clicks" or range of adjustment. A 308 bullet has about a 47" fall at 500 yards, so you'll want to look for scopes with a lot of adjustment for zeroing elevation if you want to shoot long distance with that method (aka putting the cross hairs on the target). I believe that is equivalent to zeroing 9.4" high at 100 yards. I know of a documented case with a 223 at 1 mile (1760 yards), the guy was zeroing 46" high at 100 yards, so you basically put the cross hairs at the top of a sheet of plywood laying on it's side and hit the bottom edge! You need a lot of scope adjustment to zero like that, or you have to shim your rings/mounts. If you're going to go the other route and bullshit it like I do, get a MILDOT scope and do it that way. I just make an educated guess since I have plain cross hairs and I'm zeroed at 100 yards. So far its been working fine at 300 yards with Remington UMC 223 ammo, shooting about 1 or 2 MOA.

I'll be thinking of you when I'm shooting 300 to 850 yards tomorrow. If I can hit a sheet of plywood (48" circle equivalent) at 850 yards with my 223 Hornady rounds I'll be happy. That is what...5.6 MOA? Seems do-able based on how I shoot at 300 yards, but if it's a windy day, 223 has a ballistic coefficient of I think .27 average, which means I'll probably get pushed all over the place. 308 has a ballistic coefficient around I think .7 average which is way closer to ideal.

YZEATER
07-30-2010, 10:46 PM
Leupold. There is no comparison with a 70 dollar scope.

projeeper
07-31-2010, 02:22 PM
stay away from high pwr scopes i have a 24x leo on my 40xbr and you can see every heartbeat 24x is for bench comp only.
a good 4-12x with a sunshade is more than enough for any hunting you,ll do. stick a stoney point bullet drop compasator on it and your good to go.
has anyone talked about cases to you? they,re as important as your rifle and a lot of work to make good ones and will drop your group size dramiticly!
an aol case trimmer is a must as is the mouth chamfering tool
a flash hole reamer
a primer pocket uniform tool
a neck runout mike and a neck turning tool you,ll be shocked to see the difference in brass thickness in this area
a bullet seat depth seating tool is another good tool as you want to have the shoulder of the bullet as close as possible to the lands and grooves without touching them .0001-3 is good you will need a comp seating die to do this
hope you cut your sizing die with the same reamer you cut your chamber
now when you think all your cases are uniform weigh them put all the ones that weigh +or- 5gr into your loadind block and crush the rest.
now do your load delvelopment
when your shooting sub MOA and every custrom rifle should shoot sub MOA thats why you spent the xtra $$$ and if it doesn,t shoot sub MOA it,s the nut behind the but or you got ripped
give me a hollar in jan or feb and we,ll go smoke some yotes
what crown did you cut? i like a floor board crown i have it on my .222 & 243 and both shoot sub moa
it takes 36 muscels to frown 22 to smile and only 3 for proper trigger control

projeeper
07-31-2010, 02:47 PM
sorry i,m getting long winded but this was my game for many years i shot 3 position international match and heavy bench.
cleaning, a bore guide is a must as is a 1 piece ss cleaning rod throw your aluminum rods away they hold dirt and will wear the throat of your chamber
DO NOT EVER USE A SS BRUSH they will kill your barrel
break that new super critter killer using the sinclair method 1 shot clean for the first 100 shots yes it,s a pia but it,s worth it you can use break in to do load development

joshs1ofakindxj
08-02-2010, 09:42 AM
I also do a break in process with new barrels. Shoot, clean, shoot, clean, etc etc...you can google and find the process.

wozz
08-02-2010, 05:44 PM
Hey guys, got it reamed and button rifled today. Hopefully back to heat treat tonight.

I went with a 1 in 12 twist.

Then it will be rough turned.

I'm familiar with barrel breakin.

Projeeper I think you took my light target shooting a little too far. I don't load my own yet but would like to start some day.


For optics I think 6x24 is too much if I want to take this deer hunting. This is not a primary long range hunter. I'm thinking a 4x12 would be a nice mix for hunting and target. Thoughts?

ridgerunner97
08-02-2010, 06:06 PM
You should be doin great with a 4-12x40 or 50mm objective lense. I have a 4-12x40 Swift Premier on my Worked over Winchester Model 70 .30-06 I love the magnification range and have decimated chucks out to 450yds with 168gr Federal Match ammo. I'm sure I could go even further but that is the normal range limit I'm working at. I'm probably going to throw a Nikon on the rifle here soon. I just don't like the clarity of the Swift, it was a free replacement scope from when I bought the rifle, not my first choice. 4-12 or 4-16 if you could find one will work well for target/hunting type situations.

PatF10
08-02-2010, 06:48 PM
i run a leupold on my 270wsm in a 4-12 flavor, i like it alot better than 3-9 especially for some of those deer that are just a little further away.

projeeper
08-03-2010, 06:41 PM
wozz,
please keep in mind what i said about cleaning a bore guide and 1 piece cleaning rod and never ever a SS brush.
if i knew how i,d link you to stoney point they have all kind of good stuff,the bdc is actually a target knob that replaces your scope cap once your zeroed you replace the scope cap with the target knob set at zero if your bullet drops 4" then turn the knob up 4" and hold dead on.
also are you gonna pillar bed the action? it,s a must do on the trigger job,free float the barrel & i think you,ll pleased. that invite to kill yotes stands or foxes,coons skunks,crows whatever rears it,s ugly little head

wozz
08-10-2010, 08:53 PM
Well not much of an update.

The barrel got through heat treat and the lathe that the profile turning is done on is down and waiting on parts so im kinda stalled for a bit. Hopefully the parts for the lathe will get there soon!

wozz
08-12-2010, 08:54 PM
well profile is cut. Hopefully air-gauge, lap, and chamber early next week.

projeeper
08-13-2010, 01:41 PM
get a die set,mill off a 1/8" off the mouth of your sizing die and recut the die with the same reamer that you,re gonna cut your chamber.
then you,ll only have to neck size your brass,less work on your brass = longer life
what stock work have you done?

wozz
08-23-2010, 06:50 PM
Well bad news. The air gauge read a bore size of 1.5 tho over max on both mine and another barrel (both scrapped). Unfortunately this Friday is my last day so I will have to put this project on the shelf while im in class. Hopefully this project will continue next year.

joshs1ofakindxj
08-24-2010, 08:29 AM
Just go buy one!

wozz
08-24-2010, 12:26 PM
Just go buy one!

I could but I dont want to. I would rather wait, shoot the 243 for a bit then have a kick ass 308 that I can say I built. I like thought of cutting my own chamber, lapping, bedding etc.

joshs1ofakindxj
08-24-2010, 01:01 PM
Ya I get ya.