justin'sbig7
01-10-2011, 07:52 PM
i originally did the $20 flip as written here:
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=161815&highlight=dana+flip
but i found that it is a big deal keeping everything perfectly lined up with the shift rails to keep the interlocks and detents working right. i also missed my cable shifters, so i started a new one.
i could have just double sealed the rails and used flip shifters from D&D machine, but i didnt like having the rails below the front output yoke... and i like making simple things difficult HA!
design 2.0:
started with 1.25" 1/8th wall square tube, welded it into a box that fits nicely over the pan opening. after it was all lined up right, i drilled all the perimeter holes to bolt the pan and adapter to the tcase
http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f214/justinsbig7/fabrication/DSCF2063.jpg
then located and drilled the holes for the shift rails (oversized to .75" using a crappy chinese bit that makes crappy wobble holes)
http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f214/justinsbig7/fabrication/DSCF2062.jpg
mock up of the new .625" shift rod through the shift fork
http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f214/justinsbig7/fabrication/DSCF2064.jpg
then i took a piece of 1.25x1.50" solid bar stock, marked my EXACT centers and bored the holes through to 41/64ths with a good usa made bit. this creates a nice guide for the rods to slide on as opposed to the square tubes thin walls. i then used a 1 7/64ths bit and bored a .25" deep hole in the outside of each rail block. this allows a press fit for factory 1 1/8" shift rail seals to seal the rails on both sides.
http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f214/justinsbig7/fabrication/004-17.jpg
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=161815&highlight=dana+flip
but i found that it is a big deal keeping everything perfectly lined up with the shift rails to keep the interlocks and detents working right. i also missed my cable shifters, so i started a new one.
i could have just double sealed the rails and used flip shifters from D&D machine, but i didnt like having the rails below the front output yoke... and i like making simple things difficult HA!
design 2.0:
started with 1.25" 1/8th wall square tube, welded it into a box that fits nicely over the pan opening. after it was all lined up right, i drilled all the perimeter holes to bolt the pan and adapter to the tcase
http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f214/justinsbig7/fabrication/DSCF2063.jpg
then located and drilled the holes for the shift rails (oversized to .75" using a crappy chinese bit that makes crappy wobble holes)
http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f214/justinsbig7/fabrication/DSCF2062.jpg
mock up of the new .625" shift rod through the shift fork
http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f214/justinsbig7/fabrication/DSCF2064.jpg
then i took a piece of 1.25x1.50" solid bar stock, marked my EXACT centers and bored the holes through to 41/64ths with a good usa made bit. this creates a nice guide for the rods to slide on as opposed to the square tubes thin walls. i then used a 1 7/64ths bit and bored a .25" deep hole in the outside of each rail block. this allows a press fit for factory 1 1/8" shift rail seals to seal the rails on both sides.
http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f214/justinsbig7/fabrication/004-17.jpg