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rallyfan1
04-12-2007, 07:01 PM
I figured a couple of you guys have done this before, so maybe you could tell me whats going on.

I'm putting on a Rancho transfer case drop on my 89 Cherokee, but I noticed that instead of having four bolts holding up the crossmember, there is 1 bolt and 1 stud on each side. Is this stock??? The kit is for all Cherokees and comes with four bolts. I dont know if this is the way all older Cherkees were built or what. I was hoping you guys could tell me if you have seen this before. The only other thing I can think of is going through the unibody frame or through the floor to get the the studs out.

Thanks in advance for any suggestions, ideas

http://home.comcast.net/~efrederick71/Transfer_Case_Crossmember.JPG

XJchris98
04-12-2007, 07:14 PM
Yes....thats how they come from the factory.

I think for the stud, you have to hammer it out then tap the hole big enough for the bolt to go through. **Dont quote me on that for sure though** If you have to drop in a new stud/bolt, try and pick up a piece of piano wire (like they give you with trailer hitches) to feed the bolt through a hole in the subframe. For the other hole, the new bolts should be long enough to go through the drop and crossmember.


How much lift are you running? I know for the older cherokees you dont really need a TC drop for a 2-3" lift. Unless your getting vibes, I'd just leave it out...or go with a SYE. PORC has a nice kit for around 170$. Very easy to install and should get rid of any vibes you have.

jeepxj3
04-12-2007, 07:42 PM
Yes....thats how they come from he factory.

I think for the stud, you have to hammer it out then tap the hole big enough for the bolt to go through. **Dont quote me on that for sure though** If you have to drop in a new stud/bolt, try and pick up a piece of piano wire (like they give you with trailer hitches) to feed the bolt through a hole in the subframe. For the other hole, the new bolts should be long enough to go through the drop and crossmember.


How much lift are you running? I know for the older cherokees you dont really need a TC drop for a 2-3" lift. Unless your getting vibes, I'd just leave it out...or go with a SYE. PORC has a nice kit for around 170$. Very easy to install and should get rid of any vibes you have.


NO!! Do not hammer the stud out, double nut it, it will turn out... Chris you disappoint me yet again...

Then again it takes me what 3 months to install a skid, but what do I know... I dont have much expierence with XJ's now... :icon_fU:

rallyfan1
04-12-2007, 07:43 PM
Thanks for the input. I just installed new rear leafs that have about 3.5" of lift, plus I have 1" shackles installed. I took it for a quick drive to about 50mph and it seemed ok. At slow speeds I felt some vibrations though. I dont have the shocks on yet because I busted 3 of the 4 bolts. When the axle is full droped, I can see how far the slip yoke comes out, so I figured it was a good idea for the transfercase drop.

jeepxj3
04-12-2007, 07:46 PM
Thanks for the input. I just installed new rear leafs that have about 3.5" of lift, plus I have 1" shackles installed. I took it for a quick drive to about 50mph and it seemed ok. At slow speeds I felt some vibrations though. I dont have the shocks on yet because I busted 3 of the 4 bolts. When the axle is full droped, I can see how far the slip yoke comes out, so I figured it was a good idea for the transfercase drop.

http://www.performanceoffroadcenter.com/
Has the best price on SYE's, take a look. A stock front shaft will work up to 7in of lift in the rear.

rallyfan1
04-12-2007, 07:48 PM
Hey thanks for the double nut tip, sounds alot easier than hammering it out (I would have tried it anyways). I busted an easy out on the one shock bolt, so I guess I'm going in through the floor for that one anyways. You guys know of anyone other than JKS that makes rear upper shock mounts?

XJchris98
04-12-2007, 07:55 PM
NO!! Do not hammer the stud out, double nut it, it will turn out... Chris you disappoint me yet again...

Then again it takes me what 3 months to install a skid, but what do I know... I dont have much expierence with XJ's now... :icon_fU:

Thanks j. Wasnt sure whether you could hammer it out or not, its been awhile since ive dealt with those bolts.

jeepxj3
04-12-2007, 07:55 PM
Hey thanks for the double nut tip, sounds alot easier than hammering it out (I would have tried it anyways). I busted an easy out on the one shock bolt, so I guess I'm going in through the floor for that one anyways. You guys know of anyone other than JKS that makes rear upper shock mounts?

if you can weld just weld your rear sway bar brackets from the axle end up there, they work real well as BPE's. The JKS ones still need the existing bolt holes, and honestly its not worth it to waste your time and money on them.

Just be careful, the gas tank is back there! I did this on my 96, worked really well.

jeepxj3
04-12-2007, 07:59 PM
Here's How:
http://www.lunghd.com/Tech_Articles/Suspension_Steering_Axles_and_Brakes/Rear_BPEs.htm

jeepxj3
04-12-2007, 08:05 PM
Heres a tech article on your TC drop, no pictures, but its the same principal
http://www.go.jeep-xj.info/HowtoTCdrop.htm

Oh and a little FYI for next time, this subforum your in now is for Suggestions / Support for the forum itself not support for your Jeep. Post in General Discussion

XJchris98
04-12-2007, 08:13 PM
The go-jeep website has alot of really good How-To information. I forgot about that place...another nice find j.

rallyfan1
04-12-2007, 08:14 PM
I have a stick welder, but since my gas tank leaks its probably not a good idea right now. Hopefully that will be taken care of next paycheck. As long as I dont fill it above half, it doesnt leak. Thats def something I might try out though.

rallyfan1
04-12-2007, 08:18 PM
I have that site bookmarked! Too bad i forgot about it.

andrew2516
04-14-2007, 12:03 AM
Yes....thats how they come from he factory.

I think for the stud, you have to hammer it out then tap the hole big enough for the bolt to go through.

:082: ...and to change the oil you remove the engine and tip it over

XJchris98
04-14-2007, 01:16 AM
You know it. :047:

Krod
04-14-2007, 01:23 AM
NO!! Do not hammer the stud out, double nut it, it will turn out... Chris you disappoint me yet again...

Then again it takes me what 3 months to install a skid, but what do I know... I dont have much expierence with XJ's now... :icon_fU:

He never needed to put a drop kit on the XJ...he did it right with the SYE the first time. ;)

jeepxj3
04-15-2007, 10:26 AM
He never needed to put a drop kit on the XJ...he did it right with the SYE the first time. ;)

Chris's Jeep isnt in question here. Drop kit is what RallyFan is using, now, I can show you many posts on other forums that show im extremely opposed to this... But for a temp fix its perfectly fine.

fmfkid250
04-15-2007, 06:20 PM
When duing a SYE kit I am geussing you Need and entire new drive shaft how much is that?

XJchris98
04-15-2007, 06:52 PM
When duing a SYE kit I am geussing you Need and entire new drive shaft how much is that?


You can use a XJ front shaft as a rear shaft. Most junkyards have them anywhere from 35-50$. At the most you'll have to replace the U-joints...which is still cheaper than a shaft from say Tom Woods.

rallyfan1
04-15-2007, 11:32 PM
Yeah, I bought the springs and figured the tcd would be the cheapest fix for now. I had to order some new shocks when i discovered the pro comps were maxed out. I did get the stud out, but had one of the bolts snap so hopefully after soaking in blaster it can be ez-outed. Tommorow will see. Thanks for the tip :icon_fU:

andrew2516
04-15-2007, 11:55 PM
Good luck with the bolt I had to cut a hole in my floor and snap the rest of the bolt off, and redrill to put a new bolt and nut in there.

rallyfan1
04-16-2007, 12:08 AM
Yeah, if that fails my neighbor has a plasma cutter. I figured go in through the side of the unibody frame then throw a nice patch on it. At least that will make it easy if I ever have to get in there agian.

andrew2516
04-16-2007, 12:40 AM
I guess you could do that but I don't know if you might have some strenth issues there later.

rallyfan1
04-16-2007, 10:10 AM
I figured if I made a 2"x2" hole, then put a patch on it, it should be alright.... hopefully. How was it going through the floor

andrew2516
04-17-2007, 09:57 AM
It wasn't bad going through the floor...I just tossed a sheet of metal over the hole when I was done but I plan on replacing the floor pans in the summer anyway. Your way might work also but I think you would have a better angle on it from the top plus pulling that side of the carpet is pretty easy.

rallyfan1
04-22-2007, 10:51 AM
Well I finally finished the transfer case drop. I was able to drill out the old bolt and run a tap through it for the new one. It worked really well, no cutting required. I didint even need to install the linkage bracket for the transfer case. Goes into 4lo no problem. Now I just need to put the new shocks on. Here are some picks of the shiny new tcd and jeep with the new rear springs. No more vibes.

http://home.comcast.net/~efrederick71/tcd.JPG

http://home.comcast.net/~efrederick71/new.JPG

jeepxj3
04-23-2007, 03:25 PM
http://home.comcast.net/~efrederick71/new.JPG

Looks like you had alot of help in that blue bin ;)

rallyfan1
04-23-2007, 08:12 PM
It helps numb the pain of all those snapped bolts:icon_pidu:

mudforblood
04-23-2007, 08:34 PM
It helps numb the pain of all those snapped bolts:icon_pidu:

I feel your pain. I got a bunch of stuff that ends up a PITA to get apart. Spray PB blaster on whatever you are gonna work on a week in advance. It will make it alot easier.


Did you go to the NEC/HRJA run in ohio last month? That jeep looks familiar.

rallyfan1
04-23-2007, 11:29 PM
Wasn't me. I havent had it out since last year in Connelsville. I've just been on local trails around Carnegie/Oakdale.

I often find myself spraying blaster on whatever random nut/bolt I think may need to come off at some point. I have my e-brake cable soaking right now..

OverkillZJ
04-24-2007, 08:56 AM
Congradulations on no-more-vibes, and on your shiny new mud plow and/or rock hanger! ;)

rallyfan1
04-24-2007, 11:12 AM
what can I say, I got a road grader for 30 bucks. Let me know if you need some leveling done. Plus i'm sure it lowered my COG quite substantially:047:

jeepxj3
04-24-2007, 11:31 AM
what can I say, I got a road grader for 30 bucks. Let me know if you need some leveling done. Plus i'm sure it lowered my COG quite substantially:047:

doubt it.... I would plan a SYE in the near future though... :025:

OverkillZJ
04-24-2007, 11:32 AM
what can I say, I got a road grader for 30 bucks. Let me know if you need some leveling done. Plus i'm sure it lowered my COG quite substantially:047:

Actually... That might help with the gardening I'm doing out front... :gear_happy2:

rallyfan1
04-24-2007, 10:14 PM
I'll trade you for a tiller for a day. I've got some gardening to do too.

I was looking at those Rubicon Express SYEs where you cut your output shaft. That may be coming in the future. First I'd like to get a gas tank, front locker, and maybe a bumper, cause I'm currently missing that(bumper that is).

jeepxj3
05-02-2007, 03:26 PM
I'll trade you for a tiller for a day. I've got some gardening to do too.

I was looking at those Rubicon Express SYEs where you cut your output shaft. That may be coming in the future. First I'd like to get a gas tank, front locker, and maybe a bumper, cause I'm currently missing that(bumper that is).

the hack and taps scare me... I would rather install the rear case conversion kit rather than cut the output shaft and install that flange...

fmfkid250
05-02-2007, 03:30 PM
I'll trade you for a tiller for a day. I've got some gardening to do too.

I was looking at those Rubicon Express SYEs where you cut your output shaft. That may be coming in the future. First I'd like to get a gas tank, front locker, and maybe a bumper, cause I'm currently missing that(bumper that is).

what bumper do you need?

jeepxj3
05-02-2007, 03:32 PM
what bumper do you need?

I got painted stock ones if anyone is interested. :080:

gonecheenin
05-03-2007, 09:08 AM
I find it hard to believe you needed to drop the T-case on a long wheelbase rig at only 4"s of lift

if your u-joints could have been phased within 2 degree's of each other the driveline would have been vibe less, plus you said you had no high speeds vibes (which is where the usually show up) so why else would you need to lower the t-case?

For a cheap & quick fix instead of having a new longer shaft made they do make a longer travel slip yoke ( I think RE?) for your problem with the shaft coming out a bit too



As for the hack & tap, never heard of one failing but their usually flat flange mount so you need to get a new drive shaft for it rather then being able to run a junkyard front shaft (or rear bronce shaft) on the yoke style SYE

also they do make slip yoke style SYE's




BTW: my Grand has a access hole cut into the side of the unibody rail to access 1 crossmember bolt in order to nut it too, welcome to the club :036:

fmfkid250
05-03-2007, 06:05 PM
My xj Vibe'd pretty good the 4.5, when i droped the transfer case it is 100% perfect no vibes at all

I somehow manages to get my studs out..

but on the upper rear shock mount both got broken!!