View Full Version : 4Runner is getting a new heart
Cebby
03-13-2005, 05:25 PM
This actually started at the end of the week before last...
Son of a...
http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/93%204Runner/Overall%20Pics/Towing/Towed%20Home%20002%20(Medium).jpg
http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/93%204Runner/Overall%20Pics/Towing/Towed%20Home%20003%20(Medium).jpg
I had it towed to my house.
Here's what happened:
Started up just fine, was driving for maybe 6 or 7 minutes. Everything seemed normal, power was fine. Everything seemed normal.
I pull up to a light and I hear a sizzling sound. I was like...
http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/Smilies%20Etc/wtfcat.jpg
So I pull over into a parking lot - as I do, the sizzling is more pronounced and steam is coming out from under the hood. I reached for the key and was turning it off as I watched the temp guage start to climb (I killed it just as it hit the red area)
So, it sits outside awaiting some warm weather for me to tear into it. It appears likely that it is a coolant bypass hose/fitting from some reliable folks I've discussed it with. I initially thought headgasket, but I didn't have any of the symptoms. We'll see what we find...
If it is something catastrophic, we will see a 1UZFE swap sooner than anticipated...
Cebby
03-13-2005, 05:27 PM
Well, hoped for the best... But got the worst.
http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/93%204Runner/3VZE/Coolant%20Leak%20Notes.jpg
Coolant is pouring out between the head and block on the driver side. Can I try cranking the bolt down a little to see if that stops it? From what I've read and heard, an external leak like this is not really common. Could it just be a loose head bolt at the back of the motor?
Cebby
03-13-2005, 05:29 PM
I guess the next question is that if I do the work, what is the minimum outlay I can get away with on putting this homey back to leak-free status? I saw the HG kit was $400, knock sensor and wire is $200 and a waterpump is around $80. How many hours will I have in it to replace the HG and related stuff? (Without any SST's)
Toyota wants $1100 just to do the HG. Factor in the other "might as well" items like a waterpump, knock sensor and wire and it climbs to $1600-1700 with labor...
Considering I can get a 1UZFE and harness with 70K miles for about $1200-$1500 + another $200 for the ECU, I think the choice is pretty simple. AFAIK, the 1UZFE bolts up to the A340 trannies. So then the only issues become fabbing motor mounts and part of an exhaust. I guess the big question is how much downtime can I afford...
Cebby
03-13-2005, 05:30 PM
I'm working on lining up a garage (friend who builds race cars might have some room for me). I think he has a hoist and other stuff I don't.
Boy, there are alot of folks with deals on 3.0's and rebuild kits. It's making the decision pretty tough.
Even harder when finding things like this:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=7923589566&rd=1&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWA%3AIT
and this (too old, but you get the idea):
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=7957864284&rd=1&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWA%3AIT
Cebby
03-13-2005, 05:31 PM
Fast forward to today....
SCORE!!!
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=7959907134
Reserve was $1000. I don't think I could have found a better deal.
Any suggestions on how to ship it to Pittsburgh? The seller has a crate made for it. Shipping weight is around 600 lbs. Forwardair has a terminal in Madison, AL and also in Pittsburgh - I was going to start there. Any thoughts on shipping?
I have the shop lined up, but they need to jockey some of their cars around to give me a slot for the Runner. I should have it inside and start the dismantling next weekend. Nice coincidence - the guy who owns the space is also my waterjet cutting connection. I'm going to have some purty brackets for sure!! You should see some of the brackets he has designed/cut for the 66 Vette they are doing. Roadrace body with molded in flares and a nice new 502 waiting to go. Frame was powdercoated too... :eeek: Pics of the eye candy next week.
OverkillZJ
03-13-2005, 05:53 PM
Sweeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeet, I love big projects.
I think Forward Air will probably be your cheapest shipping option, but it'll be a good 3-$400 I bet
I agree with Matt (I am sure deapee will not though :roll: ) Forward Air is the way to go.
Cebby
04-02-2005, 08:27 PM
Some developmments I haven't posted about here...
The engine I won was sold locally out from under me. Long story. :roll:
So I started searching again for another motor..... in the mean time, I've compiled an ECU, an Engine Harness, and AFM. The motor of choice this time is the 1UZFE (Lexus 4.0 V8 - all alloy)
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=7951738310
I've also tracked down an LS400 transmission that I'll convert to 4WD. All that I need to do this is the output shaft and tailhousing from a Toyota automatic 4WD trans.
At the same time, I'll be installing a Marlin Crawler dual ultimate setup. I'm retaining the IFS for now, but will eventually will swap in a solid axle.
Some developmments I haven't posted about here...
The engine I won was sold locally out from under me. Long story. :roll:
So I started searching again for another motor..... in the mean time, I've compiled an ECU, an Engine Harness, and AFM. The motor of choice this time is the 1UZFE (Lexus 4.0 V8 - all alloy)
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=7951738310
I've also tracked down an LS400 transmission that I'll convert to 4WD. All that I need to do this is the output shaft and tailhousing from a Toyota automatic 4WD trans.
At the same time, I'll be installing a Marlin Crawler dual ultimate setup. I'm retaining the IFS for now, but will eventually will swap in a solid axle.
Sounds like you have been quite busy!
Good luck with the project, I hope it goes smoothly.
Is that all you need is a head gasket? What engine is that, a 3.4? Why are you considering a whole engine? Excuse me for being forgetful, I remember some talk about engines a while ago but can't remember who was involved in what.
Cebby
04-02-2005, 09:12 PM
If my 4Runner had the 3.4 I'd rebuilt, (actually, the HG doesn't let go on those motors usually). Nope, mine has the 3.0, also known as the "3 point slow". It is a turd of a motor - anyone who knows these motors knows they were Toyota's worst. I will not pour money into the 3.0 - plus there is no way to get any HP gains out of it with dumping piles of cash into it. No thanks.
I had been looking for an excuse to swap something else in. I was considering a 3.4 or a 2JZ (inline 6), but the V8 swap was more intriquing. Plus, no one else has done it in the US (that I know of) The Aussies and New Zealanders have done this swap and have provided alot of the tech info I've needed to move forward with this.
I've been spending alot of time over at www.lextreme.com. Lots of good info.
makes sense...I shoulda read your signature heh.
Cebby
04-07-2005, 12:31 PM
Engine arrived today. I'm stoppiing over to take pics/measurements!!!
Cebby
06-16-2005, 06:24 PM
A few set backs with the shop I'm working in, lots of other work to keep me busy, and a couple of vacations in the mix - BUT I'M BACK!!!
I've been accumulating parts (and knowledge) to get this thing done - even though I haven't turned a wrench on her yet, I feel good about how things will go from here on out.
Here's what I have here or have ordered for the project:
1UZFE Engine (Toyota/Lexus 4.0L 4 cam 32 valve)
1UZFE Harness
1UZFE AFM
1UZFE Computer (2 versions)
Lexus LS400 Transmission and Torque Converter
'00 4Runner Transmission, Torque converter, and multimode (AWD) transfercase
('00 tcase will be sold off as well as other unused parts)
(2) '83 top shift geardriven transfer cases
Marlin Crawler V6 Auto Tranny Adapter
Marlin Crawler 23 Spline input
Marlin Crawler MC07 dual case adapter
Marlin Crawler 23 spline 4.7 gear set (for the rear case)
Here's how it will be set up:
1UZFE Engine | 1UZFE Bellhousing/Torque Converter | 00' 4Runner A340F | Marlin 34-AT | Marlin 23 Spline Input | Gear Drive Reduction Box w/stock 2.28 gears | Marlin MC07 | Gear Drive Reduction Box/T-case w/Marlin 23 spline 4.7 gearset
So, aside from physically assembling all this stuff and mounting/wiring it into the 4Runner, the list isn't all that long.
Design and build brackets to use my old accessories on the 1UZ.
Possible move or replacement of stock radiator with different unit.
Exhaust 2 into 1 and connect to my existing Borla.
I have some other easier projects I'll do along the way also. I'll try to keep that stuff separate. (OBA, armor, stereo)
Cebby
06-17-2005, 08:48 AM
Is it running yet? :lol:
You're a funny guy.... :finga:
Let me know when you need a hand.
Cebby
06-20-2005, 12:47 AM
Ran into a potential snag. The input on the transmissions I have (A341E and A340F) are not the same. The portion where the splines engage is a little bit different, but the actual length of the input shafts are different which is probably a bigger deal. (A341E has the longer input) The problem is getting the TC to bolt to the driveplate and still engage the splines. It does not appear that it will work.
Here’s a drawing I whipped up showing the difference:
http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/93%204Runner/Transmission_Mods/TC%20&%20Input%20Dims%2050.pdf
So, I guess the question is:
Do I swap out the output shaft and tailhousing from the A340F to the A341E
OR
Do I swap the input shaft from the A341E to the A340F? Anyone have an idea which is easier?
I’d prefer to use the A340F trans if possible since it is newer and has better gearing for off-roading.
So, the statements about grabbing any A340x trans and swapping bellhousings to do this swap doesn’t appear to hold water – unless I’m missing something…
Cebby
06-20-2005, 01:52 PM
Does anyone know if the input shaft comes out as an assembly after removing the flange around the input? Or do I need to dismantle 1/2 the trans like you do to change the output?
I have a diagram, but it isn't really clear about how to pull the input (not step by step llike an FSM).
I don't know for sure but on most trans it is a big job to swap input shafts. Would my T100 fsm help?
Did you measure bellhousings to see if they were different in a way would affect the depth to the torque converter?
Cebby
06-21-2005, 12:22 PM
I don't know for sure but on most trans it is a big job to swap input shafts. Would my T100 fsm help?
Did you measure bellhousings to see if they were different in a way would affect the depth to the torque converter?
Yeah I had measured, but they were pretty close so I thought it might work. Plus everyone had been telling me (from www.lextreme.com) that I just needed the bellhousing/TC. It's longer by 1/2", but the shaft issue dictates the gap (or lack of gap) between the TC and driveplate on the motor.
OK, how about some more tech:
Guess what - swapping inputs IS a piece of cake. Put the a341e input into the A340F and vice versa.
Here's the pic of the A340F input and oil pump.
http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/93%204Runner/Transmission_Mods/a341-a340%20input-oil%20pump%20001%20(Medium).jpg
The A340F with the input and oil pump removed.
http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/93%204Runner/Transmission_Mods/a341-a340%20input-oil%20pump%20002%20(Medium).jpg
http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/93%204Runner/Transmission_Mods/a341-a340%20input-oil%20pump%20003%20(Medium).jpg
Here's the A340F parts and A341E parts (A340F is on the left)
http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/93%204Runner/Transmission_Mods/a341-a340%20input-oil%20pump%20004%20(Medium).jpg
The ring on the input assembly on the right corresponds to a speed sensor on the A341E. The A340F has a hole for the sensor and the mounting screw. I just need to knock out the freeze plug. I need to figure out is if the sensor in the tailhousing will work instead - looks to be the same, but I need to check their resistance and see what type of signal the ECU is expecting.
http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/93%204Runner/Transmission_Mods/a341-a340%20input-oil%20pump%20005%20(Medium).jpg
Here's the A340F area where a speed sensor could go:
http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/93%204Runner/Transmission_Mods/a341-a340%20speed%20sensor%20bung.jpg
Here's the one on the tailhousing of the A340F:
http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/93%204Runner/Transmission_Mods/a341-a340%20input-oil%20pump%20013%20(Medium).jpg
Here's the one on the case of the A341E:
http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/93%204Runner/Transmission_Mods/a341-a340%20input-oil%20pump%20014%20(Medium).jpg
Here's the input assemblies side by side - notice the A341E shaft is a bitt longer:
http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/93%204Runner/Transmission_Mods/a341-a340%20input-oil%20pump%20006%20(Medium).jpg
Cebby
06-21-2005, 12:23 PM
Oil Pumps are the same:
http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/93%204Runner/Transmission_Mods/a341-a340%20input-oil%20pump%20008%20(Medium).jpg
http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/93%204Runner/Transmission_Mods/a341-a340%20input-oil%20pump%20009%20(Medium).jpg
The oil pump drive (splined hollow shaft sticking out) is a little longer on the A341E.
http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/93%204Runner/Transmission_Mods/a341-a340%20input-oil%20pump%20010%20(Medium).jpg
Completed hybrid A340F:
http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/93%204Runner/Transmission_Mods/a341-a340%20input-oil%20pump%20011%20(Medium).jpg
If someone else is attempting this, you won't need a complete donor trans like I have. I'll figure out the fewest parts needed eventually and get this thing down to a shopping list.
Cebby
06-27-2005, 09:16 PM
Guess it's time to get to work...
http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/93%204Runner/crawler/Marlin%20Shipment%20001%20(Medium).jpg
MC07 lucky number 2554. :D
Cebby
07-09-2005, 11:46 PM
Got to get my hands on it for a little while tonight. Started tearing into one of the two gear drive cases I'll be using.
Easy as pie so far...
The victim:
http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/93%204Runner/crawler/1%20-%20Dismantle%20001%20(Medium).jpg
Hmmmm....greasey:
http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/93%204Runner/crawler/1%20-%20Dismantle%20004%20(Medium).jpg
http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/93%204Runner/crawler/1%20-%20Dismantle%20007%20(Medium).jpg
http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/93%204Runner/crawler/1%20-%20Dismantle%20010%20(Medium).jpg
Halfway there....
Cebby
07-10-2005, 11:18 PM
I was photographing everything which was eating up too much time. Marlin's dismantle and assembly instructions are SO DAMN GOOD there is really no reason to document it. You can find their instructions here:
http://www.marlincrawler.com/docs/470install/470install_2.html
OK, last night was maybe 1/4 of the way there as I found out tonight.
http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/93%204Runner/crawler/1%20-%20Dismantle%20015%20(Medium).jpg
http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/93%204Runner/crawler/1%20-%20Dismantle%20016%20(Medium).jpg
Barely fits in the bucket...
http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/93%204Runner/crawler/1%20-%20Dismantle%20018%20(Medium).jpg
I'm going to use a parts cleaner on everything, that's why I bagged and packed it up.
Pretty easy dismantle. Only one casualty (OK, actually 3) - one of the alllen head detent screws would not budge. I ended up stripping out the head of it with the 6mm allen, so I hammered a 1/4" allen into it and got it out. :D The other two parts were 2 of the thick snap rings on the shafts - these things are almost impossible to get them off without bending them. The expletives were flying.
Hmmm.....Case #2.......deja vu.... :D
http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/93%204Runner/crawler/1%20-%20Dismantle%20017%20(Medium).jpg
Cebby
07-11-2005, 07:43 PM
Got the "custom" coupler back from Marlin. The flash washed it out a bit, but basically it is an expansion plug (Dorman 555-120) epoxied into the coupler.
http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/93%204Runner/crawler/Coupler%20001%20(Medium).jpg
http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/93%204Runner/crawler/Coupler%20002%20(Medium).jpg
http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/93%204Runner/crawler/Coupler%20003%20(Medium).jpg
http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/93%204Runner/crawler/Coupler%20004%20(Medium).jpg
Looks like it should solve the leaking! :D
OverkillZJ
07-11-2005, 09:24 PM
I love reading about projects that aren't mine 8)
Cebby
07-12-2005, 10:13 PM
Wahoo! Finally got a little time this evening to start moving some of my crap down to the raceshop.
Here's my new little corner of the world:
http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/93%204Runner/swap/Raceshop%20001%20(Medium).jpg
I made up these shop lights out of some office furniture uplighting - made 2 setups like this. There are wheels underneath to roll them around.
http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/93%204Runner/swap/Raceshop%20004%20(Medium).jpg
Here it is in all its glory:
http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/93%204Runner/swap/Raceshop%20002%20(Medium).jpg
I think I'll replace the starter contacts NOW. I'd rather not have to pull the intake to do it later...
http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/93%204Runner/swap/Raceshop%20003%20(Medium).jpg
How about that new avatar...
http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/93%204Runner/swap/Raceshop%20005%20(Medium).jpg
Cebby
07-17-2005, 10:38 PM
A few general questions for everyone:
1. I bought an engine stand. I've never used one. Do I bolt this to the engine where the bellhousing normally bolts up? Newbie question I know...
2. Anyone who has pulled this motor, what sizes of sockets/wrenches are needed? I don't want to truck every single tool I own down to this shop (it's close by, but I'd need to lock up and set the alarm every time I run out, etc.)
3. I know I'll be splicing some wires. I want to get a few spools and was wondering what guage would be a suitable all around wire for hooking stuff up. It will most likely just be computer control stuff mostly. Anything thick, I'll get something specific to that app. For the general stuff, should I go 18 ga or 16ga?
OverkillZJ
07-17-2005, 10:44 PM
I don't know any of the above, but for computer / engine wiring stuff, I think 16 gauge would be waaaaay too big, 18 is probably a safer bet. Heck, I think most of my enging wiring is 20/22 but its chrystler crap electric...
medix
07-18-2005, 08:04 AM
It bolts to the bellhousing bolts. Find some very long bolts because the bellhousing bolts are too short for most stands
Toyotas usually come apart with 10, 12, 14, 17, 19, 21, 22 mms
For normal sensor wiring, 18 should be fine. I would get a couple of rolls of wiring in different sizes and just try to match what you are splicing.
Have you heard of bellhousings to bolt the Lex V8 to R150/151 series manuals? I heard of someone in Australia doing it but don't know how it was done. DMG
A few general questions for everyone:
1. I bought an engine stand. I've never used one. Do I bolt this to the engine where the bellhousing normally bolts up? Newbie question I know...
2. Anyone who has pulled this motor, what sizes of sockets/wrenches are needed? I don't want to truck every single tool I own down to this shop (it's close by, but I'd need to lock up and set the alarm every time I run out, etc.)
3. I know I'll be splicing some wires. I want to get a few spools and was wondering what guage would be a suitable all around wire for hooking stuff up. It will most likely just be computer control stuff mostly. Anything thick, I'll get something specific to that app. For the general stuff, should I go 18 ga or 16ga?
Cebby
07-18-2005, 09:38 AM
Have you heard of bellhousings to bolt the Lex V8 to R150/151 series manuals? I heard of someone in Australia doing it but don't know how it was done. DMG
Thanks for the info David. What happened to the DMG monicker?
For a manual, you need a custom bellhousing - probably other things as well. Look here:
http://www.rodshop.com.au/bellhousings.htm
http://www.dellowauto.com.au/main.html
http://www.1uzquadcam.co.nz/
These are where the Aussies/NZ guys get their parts.
Cebby
07-18-2005, 02:04 PM
Does anyone know what the bellhousing to engine bolt size normally is? Funny thing - when you buy engines and transmissions separately, you don't get the bolts....
medix
07-18-2005, 02:36 PM
Have you heard of bellhousings to bolt the Lex V8 to R150/151 series manuals? I heard of someone in Australia doing it but don't know how it was done. DMG
Thanks for the info David. What happened to the DMG monicker?
For a manual, you need a custom bellhousing - probably other things as well. Look here:
http://www.rodshop.com.au/bellhousings.htm
http://www.dellowauto.com.au/main.html
http://www.1uzquadcam.co.nz/
These are where the Aussies/NZ guys get their parts.
Ooops. I am at work and one of my buddies joined up. I guess I am logged in as him. I will see what size bolt is in my spare 3.0.
I have a bellhousing bolt for a 3.0/R150 it is 60mm x 12mm x 1.25 pitch.
(edit) I am not dead certain it was a bellhousing bolt but it threads into the bellhousing and I am pretty certain thats where it came from. Either way the pitch and diameter are correct.(edit)
On my engine stand the bolts are 80-100mm but your stand may be different.
DMG
Cebby
07-19-2005, 03:22 AM
Thanks for the info David! I've got to pick up some bolts tomorrow..
Decided to tear into the ol' girl a bit...
http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/93%204Runner/3VZE/dismantlepics/3VZE%20Dismantle%20001%20(Medium).jpg
Got the hood, corner markers, turn signals, grille, headlights, battery, and AFM/K&N FIPK removed.
Here's a pic of the 1UZ motor mount. Not sure how it will work with the 3VZ mounts, I guess the 3VZ mount bolts directly to the block - need the other motor out first to verify...
http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/93%204Runner/1UZFE/1UZFE%20ID%20009%20(Medium).jpg
Now to figure out what is missing from the motor. I'm wondering what this is right in the middle with the non-grooved 4 spoke pulley. The connections look like PS pump fittings....hmmmm.
http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/93%204Runner/1UZFE/1UZFE%20ID%20001%20(Medium).jpg
AC pump and Alt go somewhere on here - either on the left...
http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/93%204Runner/1UZFE/1UZFE%20ID%20003%20(Medium).jpg
or on the right....
http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/93%204Runner/1UZFE/1UZFE%20ID%20004%20(Medium).jpg
I'd bet the 2UZ (4.7's) have the accessories in the same place as the 1UZ - Hmmmm......
Cebby
07-20-2005, 12:20 AM
I received a Tundra bellhousing, oil pump, output shaft, and tailhousing today. I have a Tundra torque converter coming next week. Between the parts I have with the exception of the input shaft, I have two complete but diffferent approaches to automatic options for this engine coupled to a gear driven case (or two :D )
Opt. 1 - 3rd Gen 4Runner A340F - modified by changing input shaft, oil pump, and bellhousing to items compatible with 1UZ (could be either LS400 trans parts or Tundra/Seq/LC trans parts). Transfer case pulled (wrong side drop) so gear drive case can be used (with Marlin adapter)
Opt. 2 - LS400 Trans A341E - modified by changing output shaft and tailhousing (I'm using Tundra trans parts, but A340F parts could be used also). Gear drive case can be used (with Marlin adapter)
If a crawler isn't wanted/needed, T100's came with A340F trannies and removable chain drive t-cases with the correct side drop for 2nd Gen 4Runners.
Here's the Tundra parts I got today:
http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/93%204Runner/Transmission_Mods/Tundra%20Parts%20(Medium).jpg
I haven't bolted these parts up yet, but after looking at them closely, it appears that the Tundra parts are interchangable along with the other stuff I've compiled.
Cebby
07-22-2005, 10:51 AM
I did some work from 11-2 last night, but forgot to bring my camera so no progress pics. Here's the list...
- 3VZE ECU pulled and the harness pulled into the engine bay from the interior
- Removed the ADD solenoids and related vac hoses
- Removed the misc solenoids and vac hoses from the pass side fender
- Removed the coil and related wiring
- Unhooked the Alt wiring
- Unhooked various ground wires from the block
I need to pickup a large pan to drain some fluids before I can pull the rad, PS hoses, etc. I've never actually drained a cooling system before and not reused the coolant - what is the proper way to dispose of it?
Took some qualiity time looking at the rad and available space. The Tundra rad will not fit. In going to a wider rad, it will need to sit on top of the framerails. This limits my height to about 20" max (if I want my hood to close). My best guess is that a rad 19-20"h x 28"w is going to be the easiest to fit. The stock rad is roughly 22"w x 22"h (slips down betweeen the frame rails slightly and extends above the core support - fits the stock hood bulge in the center.
I have relatives arriving today and staying until Wed next week - probably not a whole lot happening between now and then. At least I'll have a hand for getting the trannies down to the shop...
Cebby
07-23-2005, 03:11 AM
OK, topic is cooling...
I think that an LS400 radiator just might be the ticket.
Dims: 1.5"th x 16"h x 33"w
How you ask? Here's the plan. With the relatively short height of the LS rad, I can remove the AC condensor from the core support and widen the opening. The rad will sit ABOVE the frame rails roughly where the condensor was and be the first thing to get air. I will mount the condensor behind the rad. Dual 16" electric pusher fans will go in front of everything and should fit behind an unmodified grille.
Not alot of room to work with:
http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/93%204Runner/3VZE/dismantlepics/3VZE%20Dismantle%20007%20(Medium).jpg
Excuse the crude "sketch"
http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/93%204Runner/cooling/Proposed%20Cooling-wht.jpg
I'm thinking some sort of shroud for the pusher fans - not sure what yet. As far as fans, I'm thinking maybe this fan:
http://static.summitracing.com/global/images/prod/large/prm-19115.jpg
Permacool PRM-19115, 16" reversible. Moves 2950 CFM!! $110 ea.
Cebby
07-24-2005, 11:46 AM
A couple of folks have cautioned against putting the condensor behind the rad, so I'll need to rethink it. I was also warned against that sort of fan I posted as they have a tendency for the metal to fatigue where the blades are attached and they come flying off. OUCH!
So, I came across this fan:
http://static.summitracing.com/global/images/prod/large/flx-398.jpg
Flex-a-lite FLX-398, $119 ea. 2500 CFM, 17a Comes with a shroud. I will use 2 of these side by side. It's 4" thick though...
I know very little about AC. Anyone know how far away I can relocate the AC condensor from the pump? I'm wondering if I can find a different size/shape condensor that would fit elsewhere. Has anyone heard of running two smaller condensors? (maybe flanking the radiator??) Any AC savvy folks out there?
EDIT: I've found some others that are a little thinner, so this may work out afterall...
Regarding the AC, since the fan on the condensor only covers maybe a 3rd of it, could I get away without it and just use the condensor?
You can move the condenser around as long as it isn't somewhere too hot.
If you remove the fan on the condenser it wiil not cool as well when you are stopped.
Cebby
07-24-2005, 01:34 PM
OK, here's a few more pics of the dismantling from the other night. I had an extra set of hands last night, so we took the trannies down to the shop.
http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/93%204Runner/3VZE/dismantlepics/Dismantle%20001%20(Medium).jpg
http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/93%204Runner/3VZE/dismantlepics/Dismantle%20002%20(Medium).jpg
http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/93%204Runner/3VZE/dismantlepics/Dismantle%20003%20(Medium).jpg
http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/93%204Runner/3VZE/dismantlepics/Dismantle%20006%20(Medium).jpg
http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/93%204Runner/3VZE/dismantlepics/Dismantle%20007%20(Medium).jpg
I want to get the coolant and oil drained out of everything next. Here's some more shots of the core suppport/rad/AC condensor for reference as I breakout the sawsall!
http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/93%204Runner/3VZE/dismantlepics/Dismantle%20005%20(Medium).jpg
http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/93%204Runner/3VZE/dismantlepics/Dismantle%20008%20(Medium).jpg
http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/93%204Runner/3VZE/dismantlepics/Dismantle%20009%20(Medium).jpg
http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/93%204Runner/3VZE/dismantlepics/Dismantle%20010%20(Medium).jpg
Currently, the radator and electric fan extend 6" from the core support toward the engine:
http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/93%204Runner/3VZE/dismantlepics/Dismantle%20013%20(Medium).jpg
Then the core support and AC fan take up another 4"
http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/93%204Runner/3VZE/dismantlepics/Dismantle%20012%20(Medium).jpg
Cebby
07-24-2005, 06:40 PM
FWIW, I looked at my 2000 Jeep Grand Cherokee today and found there is no separate fan on the AC condensor. The air in that one works just fine sitting and idling...
Cebby
07-30-2005, 10:35 AM
I finally got back down to the shop after my weeklong+ hiatus (family in from out of town).
On the Runner, just a couple little things done. The big news is that I got the motor off the skid and up onto the engine stand. For this particular stand, the fingers add roughly 2 7/16 (approx 60mm) to the bolts + thread depth (approx 30mm). So, I got (4) bolts M12 x 1.25tp x 90mm long. No pics of me actually bolting the engine to the stand (too much cursing) :D
How about a good look at that engine...
http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/93%204Runner/1UZFE/Standshot%20001%20(Medium).jpg
http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/93%204Runner/1UZFE/Standshot%20002%20(Medium).jpg
http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/93%204Runner/1UZFE/Standshot%20003%20(Medium).jpg
http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/93%204Runner/1UZFE/Standshot%20004%20(Medium).jpg
http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/93%204Runner/1UZFE/Standshot%20005%20(Medium).jpg
http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/93%204Runner/1UZFE/Standshot%20006%20(Medium).jpg
http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/93%204Runner/1UZFE/Standshot%20007%20(Medium).jpg
http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/93%204Runner/1UZFE/Standshot%20009%20(Medium).jpg
http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/93%204Runner/1UZFE/Standshot%20010%20(Medium).jpg
Cebby
07-31-2005, 01:51 AM
Got a few things done tonight:
Removed:
Skid
Coolant, ATF and Engine Oil
Bumper and valence
Flex-a-lite fan
Radiator
AC Condensor/Evap./piping
Horns
Hood latch/support
After getting all this stuff out, it appears that I the LS400 rad I was thinking about using is too large. Back to the drawng board...
http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/93%204Runner/3VZE/dismantlepics/dismantle%20rad-ac%20001%20(Medium).jpg
http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/93%204Runner/3VZE/dismantlepics/dismantle%20rad-ac%20003%20(Medium).jpg
http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/93%204Runner/3VZE/dismantlepics/dismantle%20rad-ac%20006%20(Medium).jpg
http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/93%204Runner/3VZE/dismantlepics/dismantle%20rad-ac%20010%20(Medium).jpg
http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/93%204Runner/3VZE/dismantlepics/dismantle%20rad-ac%20015%20(Medium).jpg
http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/93%204Runner/3VZE/dismantlepics/dismantle%20rad-ac%20016%20(Medium).jpg
http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/93%204Runner/3VZE/dismantlepics/dismantle%20rad-ac%20020%20(Medium).jpg
Cebby
07-31-2005, 08:34 PM
For those that have pulled this motor before, can I pull the engine/trans/t-case as one unit, or do I need to unbolt the trans from the block? Those bolts up on top of the trans have got to be a beotch if its the latter...
Cebby
08-01-2005, 03:58 PM
OK, I received a Tundra torque converter today. I compared it to the LS400 TC. While there is a slight difference dimensionally, the big diffference is in the weight. Even with some ATF left in the LS400 TC (and virtually none in the Tundra TC), the Tundra TC weighs at least 1/3 more. (Sorry, no scale handy). The top half of the two TC's are virtually identical, the difference lies on the driveplate side of the TC. The Tundra TC measures roughly 12" diameter, while the LS400 TC is roughly 11 3/8".
http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/93%204Runner/Transmission_Mods/tundra%20vs%20ls400%20tc%20(Medium).jpg
So, the added size and weight should help dissipate the heat associated with the auto trans/crawlers (with adequate coolers installed of course)
Cebby
08-02-2005, 03:06 AM
Spent 5 hours at the shop tonight. I'm bushed!
Got a good amount done though.
Pulled the trans fluid cooler
Pulled the crossmember
Finished uphooking everything in the engine bay (balance of the AC piping and power steering hoses)
Then I ran into a problem... I can't get any of my damn driveshaft bolts out. I tried everything. I'm going to pickup a set of wobble impact sockets so I can use my impact wrench on those stubborn buggers. Any words of wisdom (other than heat..)
When I ran into this issue, I turned my attention to 1UZ. Time to start tearing into it. Important thing to note: Even if the folks you get the engine from say they drained all the fluids, don't believe it. I flipped mine over and proceded to dump a bunch of coolant on the floor. Then I discovered that my mounting of the engine to the stand was far from balanced - when I flipped it, it about threw me into the air (no small feat!). I found that I was unable to flip it back over, so then I push the engine across the shop to where the chain hoist is. Hook it to the engine and start hoistin'. Phew!
So, then I tear into the engine.
I got the TB and top intake plenum off, then I stripped the existing harness off. I have a couple of sensors to unhook, but for the most part, I'm ready to install the new harness. Here's a few pics of the strippage:
http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/93%204Runner/1UZFE/Teardown/1uz%20teardown%20001%20(Medium).jpg
http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/93%204Runner/1UZFE/Teardown/1uz%20teardown%20005%20(Medium).jpg
http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/93%204Runner/1UZFE/Teardown/1uz%20teardown%20007%20(Medium).jpg
http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/93%204Runner/1UZFE/Teardown/1uz%20teardown%20010%20(Medium).jpg
http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/93%204Runner/1UZFE/Teardown/1uz%20teardown%20012%20(Medium).jpg
Cebby
08-18-2005, 11:30 AM
I need 6 groove pulleys for my AC pump, PS Pump and Alternator. Anyone know where I should start looking? How hard are these to switch out?
Cebby
12-02-2005, 12:50 AM
OK - after a long break, I finally got back to it today...
Went from this:
http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/93%204Runner/1UZFE/Teardown/1uz%20teardown%20009%20(Medium).jpg
To this:
http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/93%204Runner/1UZFE/Teardown/tbelt-waterpump/tbelt-waterpump%20017%20(Medium).jpg
I'm replacing the timing belt and water pump in case you couldn't figure it out. I found a good writeup for dismantling the front of the motor - a few minor inconsistencies, but overall, not too bad.
That took about 2 1/2 hours including a run to the auto parts store to buy a puller for the crank pulley. Oh, I was all worried about getting the crankshaft bolt out since the motor was out of the vehicle - I had visions of using some ungodly breaker bar and flipping then engine over on to the floor. It was really a piece of cake. My impact took it right off with no fanfare.
I hope to get back down there tomorrow and put the motor back together. Plenty to do there including starter rebuilt (5 minute job), PS pump rebuild, water pump, timing belt, caps/rotors, plugs, wires, etc.
Hey, check out the difference between the waterpump I pulled off compared to the new one. The existing one has a plastic impeller, while I new one is metal. Of course I get the old one off and it still looks brand new on the inside...
Old one:
http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/93%204Runner/1UZFE/Teardown/tbelt-waterpump/tbelt-waterpump%20021%20(Medium).jpg
New one:
http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/93%204Runner/1UZFE/Teardown/tbelt-waterpump/tbelt-waterpump%20022%20(Medium).jpg
I'm hoping my tranny jack arrives from HF tomorrow so I can finallly get the motor and trans out. I still need to assembly the t-cases and crawler assembly, so it will be a little while until I can fit all this stuff in there. I think I'll be fabbing my own crossmember also.
OverkillZJ
12-02-2005, 12:07 PM
Looking good! Everyones getting so much more on their projects than me (booooo.)
Cebby
12-02-2005, 08:10 PM
Lookie - two days in a row...
Yummy...
http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/93%204Runner/1UZFE/Teardown/tbelt-waterpump/tbelt-waterpump%20026%20(Medium).jpg
Got that baby mounted...also got the starter rebuilt and installed.
The timing belt is pretty much done, but I have a question I posted over on Lextreme about the position of the left cam bank. The mark on the pulley doesn't seem to be in the right spot even though there was a timing belt on the motor that I removed (taking care not to move anything after moving the crank position to "0" with the belt on)
http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/93%204Runner/1UZFE/Teardown/tbelt-waterpump/tbelt-waterpump%20027%20(Medium).jpg
Didn't tighten the tensioner yet...
http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/93%204Runner/1UZFE/Teardown/tbelt-waterpump/tbelt-waterpump%20034%20(Medium).jpg
Cebby
12-14-2005, 08:30 PM
OK, take two...
Here she is all cleaned up.
http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/93%204Runner/1UZFE/Rebuild/tbelt-wp-tstathousing%20001%20(Medium).jpg
The copper RTV was a major PITA to remove from the pump (those grooves do a nice job of keeping the RTV in there. At least I learned from it.
http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/93%204Runner/1UZFE/Rebuild/tbelt-wp-tstathousing%20002%20(Medium).jpg
Considerably less this time, plus I smeared it around to make sure it was even.
http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/93%204Runner/1UZFE/Rebuild/tbelt-wp-tstathousing%20004%20(Medium).jpg
Side view
http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/93%204Runner/1UZFE/Rebuild/tbelt-wp-tstathousing%20005%20(Medium).jpg
Waterpump back on (sorry a little fuzzy)
http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/93%204Runner/1UZFE/Rebuild/tbelt-wp-tstathousing%20007%20(Medium).jpg
Got the thermostat housing back on also (a pre-schmear pic...)
http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/93%204Runner/1UZFE/Rebuild/tbelt-wp-tstathousing%20006%20(Medium).jpg
Even got the cams lined up properly while installing the timing belt this time.
http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/93%204Runner/1UZFE/Rebuild/tbelt-wp-tstathousing%20008%20(Medium).jpg
http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/93%204Runner/1UZFE/Rebuild/tbelt-wp-tstathousing%20009%20(Medium).jpg
Idlers reinstalled also...
http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/93%204Runner/1UZFE/Rebuild/tbelt-wp-tstathousing%20010%20(Medium).jpg
Crank pulley and cover back on too
http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/93%204Runner/1UZFE/Rebuild/tbelt-wp-tstathousing%20011%20(Medium).jpg
This is as far as I got yesterday (I did this AFTER replacing the waterpump, thermostat and changing the oil on my 2000 JGC)
Cebby
02-24-2006, 10:32 AM
I guess it's time for an update. After a long absence, I've been able to spend some quality time with the 4Runner this week. Three separate sessions. Maybe a total of 5 hours or so (?).
Last week, I discovered that the gantry hoist that was at my disposal was too short (due to ceiling height) for me to pull the motor and clear the radiator core support, so I got a folding "Sams Club special" hoist. I think it was around $169. I'm not adding that time into the swap, since I had wanted to get a hoist anyway.
Session #1
Remove stubborn as a mo-fo driveshaft bolts. This seemed to take forever. Each took a breaker bar and several hard whacks with a deadblow. Pulled the driveshafts. I found it easier to remove the bolts at the diffs - the tcase end seemed to be pressed/rusted in place. I was able to knock these out afterwards, but not while on the vehicle.
http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/93%204Runner/1UZFE/Teardown/motorpulled%20005%20(Medium).jpg
http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/93%204Runner/1UZFE/Teardown/motorpulled%20006%20(Medium).jpg
Also removed the motormount bolts, disconnected the fuel line, throttle cable, tranny dipstick bracket, tranny fluid lines that went to the radiator, steering stabilizer, shift linkage and a few other misc little things I had missed before. I also took a sawzall to the downpipe at this point.
Here's the downpipe cut - I got in there where I could. I unbolted those two bracket bolts and the bracket dropped to the floor - it probably should have been attached...
http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/93%204Runner/1UZFE/Teardown/motorpulled%20007%20(Medium).jpg
Session #2
At this point, the motor is free enough to lift it up and pull forward so I can get at the top transmission bolts. I'm convinced that there is absolutely no way in hell these can be removed any other way since these took a long breaker bar to bust them loose. I removed the top 4 bolts and also removed the starter (let it hang). At this point, I also unplugged the wiring that was on top of the front of the trans. I think I only cracked one connector. The vehicle IS 13 years old.
http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/93%204Runner/1UZFE/Teardown/motorpulled%20012%20(Medium).jpg
http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/93%204Runner/1UZFE/Teardown/motorpulled%20013%20(Medium).jpg
Dropped the motor/trans back down to the motor mounts and went to work on the other bellhousing bolts. All the while I had the trans/tcase supported by one floorjack with the HF trans jack adapter. This thing works OK, but it is way too tall unless you have your vehicle up on jack stands,some sort of hoist, or a bigger lift/tires - but OK for supporting it while I pulled the motor. There are a few more wiring connectors that need to be removed at this point from the back end of the trans/tcase.
To separate the engine from the trans, I took a long piece of tubing (about 5') and with the engine/trans combo lifted back up slightly (so I could get a sightline to where the BH meets the engine), I took the piece of tube, threaded it through the core support and put it on the edge of the BH flange and gave ti a few whacks with a deadblow. After getting it separated about 1/2", I started to violently yank the hoist back and forth until the engine separated from the trans completely. I was finally able to get the 3.0 up and out. Even with the better clearance of the hoist, I had to lift the engine to the point where the end of the lifting arm was up between the ceiling joists, so I had to do a little monkeying to get the engine over core suppport, but under the joists to a skid I had nearby. That empty engine bay is the most reward part of this swap so far.
http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/93%204Runner/1UZFE/Teardown/motorpulled%20018%20(Medium).jpg
http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/93%204Runner/1UZFE/Teardown/motorpulled%20020%20(Medium).jpg
FINALLY!!!
Session #3
I have limited overhead space and didn't want to mess with trying to lift the 4Runner OVER the trans and jack - so with a combo of low profile floorjacks and some finagling, I was able to get the unit safely to the smooth concrete floor where I could drag it out from under. When putting the new trans back in, I really need to modify the HF trans adapter so it isn't so freakishly tall. I don't think I really need the pivot function anyway - didn't use it so far. Fortunately, there are at least 4 floorjacks floating around the shop I'm working in. That was one heavy mutha...
http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/93%204Runner/1UZFE/Teardown/motorpulled%20016%20(Medium).jpg
http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/93%204Runner/1UZFE/Teardown/transpulled%20001%20(Medium).jpg
http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/93%204Runner/1UZFE/Teardown/transpulled%20005%20(Medium).jpg
http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/93%204Runner/1UZFE/Teardown/transpulled%20007%20(Medium).jpg
Coming up next - 1UZ to do's (modify fan hydro pump - turn into idler pulley, remove cut-off exhaust collector flange studs, replace fuel rail o-rings, reassemble engine intake, plugs, wires, caps, do cosmetic stuff, mount up the wiring harness, etc), Trans to do's (run oil coolant lines and prep for aux cooler, figure out wiring), and finally Tcase to do's (install 4.7's and doubler assembly) and driveshaft length changes, etc.
At least I finally made some REAL progress...
Wrecker
02-24-2006, 12:23 PM
I was wondering if you had given up. I know it can be hard to get back to a project. I started a head gasket on a dodge car in spring of 2004 and hoping to finish this weekend. ( 1 natural disaster and a honey do list are that main reasons.)
Cebby
03-04-2006, 12:02 PM
On to the motor mounts...
Well - the previous notion of reusing the existing 3VZE motor moutns was only partially true. The rubber isolators that are a part of the 1UZFE setup are way too tall - not to mention the configuration just isn't going to work. Here's what I'm working with.
This is what the welded mount looks like in the 2nd Gen 4Runner/3Rd Gen Truck with the 3VZE - all of these pics show the drivers side mount - the passenger side is just the opposite, nothing out of the ordinary:
http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/93%204Runner/1UZFE/motormount/motormountdesign%20001%20(Medium).jpg
Here's the motor mount attached to the 3VZE engine:
http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/93%204Runner/1UZFE/motormount/motormountdesign%20003%20(Medium).jpg
Here's the mount removed from the motor and bolted back into the 4Runner
http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/93%204Runner/1UZFE/motormount/motormountdesign%20005%20(Medium).jpg
The nut down inside there holds the part that bolts the engine to the rubber portion of the mount:
http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/93%204Runner/1UZFE/motormount/motormountdesign%20007%20(Medium).jpg
Here's the 3VZE mount split into its components:
http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/93%204Runner/1UZFE/motormount/motormountdesign%20012%20(Medium).jpg
Well, the 1UZFE driverside mount (rubber part) was trashed on this JDM motor, so here's a pic of the passenger side mount - you can see that its quite a bit different then the 3VZE mounts.
http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/93%204Runner/1UZFE/motormount/motormountdesign%20009%20(Medium).jpg
Here's the 1UZFE mount split into its components:
http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/93%204Runner/1UZFE/motormount/motormountdesign%20021%20(Medium).jpg
And finally, here's a side by side comparison of the two mounts:
http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/93%204Runner/1UZFE/motormount/motormountdesign%20020%20(Medium).jpg
I'm going to do something similar to the moutns made by "Sideshow" from Lextreme. He has a 1UZFE in a 2WD 3rd Gen pickup - with NO BODYLIFT. If you've been reading, it has been thought that this swap will only fit with a 2" BL. I have a 1" BL and didn't want to go any higher - Hell, I'd like to take it out eventually. Sideshow used the bottom half of the 3VZE mount and fashioned new part that attaches to the engine. Seems to be pretty simple - I have a front diff to content with though, so mine will be slightly different. Here's a pic of what he did:
http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/93%204Runner/1UZFE/motormount/SS-motormount1%20(Medium).JPG
Cebby
03-20-2006, 08:42 PM
Well, the idea of removing the guts of the fan oil pump to turn it into an idler pulley seemed simple enough. Little did I know what I was in for. Every puller I tried was ineffective to remove the pulley. So I finally go over to the shop press and have at it.
Good news and bad news. Good news is that I got it off. Bad news is that I pringled the pulley in the process. The pulley is unusable.
So, I initially set out to find an idler assembly that bolts into the same spot. This is available on some models of 1UZ - namely the models that have electric fans. I was told LS400's, but I have yet to confirm that.
Anyway, here's the item I'm referring to:
The offending pulley...
http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/93%204Runner/1UZFE/fanpump-idler/oil%20pump%20dismantle%20001%20%28Medium%29.jpg
The whole unit:
http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/93%204Runner/1UZFE/fanpump-idler/oil%20pump%20dismantle%20002%20%28Medium%29.jpg
With all the other stuff stripped off:
http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/93%204Runner/1UZFE/fanpump-idler/oil%20pump%20dismantle%20003%20%28Medium%29.jpg
It's off - can't tell from the pic, but the pulley is fubar.
http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/93%204Runner/1UZFE/fanpump-idler/oil%20pump%20dismantle%20004%20%28Medium%29.jpg
Here's what's inside:
http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/93%204Runner/1UZFE/fanpump-idler/oil%20pump%20dismantle%20005%20%28Medium%29.jpg
http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/93%204Runner/1UZFE/fanpump-idler/oil%20pump%20dismantle%20007%20%28Medium%29.jpg
For reference, this pulley was right above the crank pulley:
http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/93%204Runner/1UZFE/Standshot%20001%20%28Medium%29.jpg
It turns out that some of the folks on the Lextreme forum have just removed this item and are running a shorter belt. The only potential issue is that the crank pulley then only has about 30% wrap on it down from maybe 50%+. I'm concerned about what might happen with water crossings and belt slippage - plus if I add a higher output alternator for a welder or want to add a supercharger, I might have issues with belts slipping. I'm scouting for a pic of the idler to #1 see if I can locate one or #2 see if it's possible to fabricate something.
OverkillZJ
03-20-2006, 09:13 PM
When you finish this big project, and I finish the buggy project, do you think hell will freeze over?
Do you have an A/C gauge set for figuring out your A/C junk? If it's 134a I've got one you can borrow. What fan did you end up going with, you said you found one thinner than the one w/ the pic way back? I might re use my stock radiator on the buggy and add e-fans to it, so I'm looking.
Cebby
03-20-2006, 09:57 PM
I have a 134a compressor, still need to pick up a dryer. I'm an A/C newbie - what is the gauge for?
I'll need to dig up what I found on the fans - there were some sub 2" overall thickness fans I had some across. I didn't make a final decision since I've gotten conflicting info on whether I can use my existing radiator or not. I'd prefer to over build the cooling system for the engine and especially the auto trans.
Regardless of what I choose, it will be a compromise of the highest CFM with the thinnest profile.
And yes, hell will be freezing over.... ;)
OverkillZJ
03-20-2006, 10:08 PM
You've got the same criteria for fans as I need for the buggy, so sweeeet that saves me some time :-D
The gauge manifold measures the high and low sides of your A/C system (before compressor, after compressor pretty much) and has a valve that allows you to fill it up. No idea on your rig, but the specifics on my ZJ were pretty tight on procedures. Before I got my manifold I over filled it and blew up a compressor, LOL
Cebby
03-22-2006, 08:46 PM
Got a little more done today. Nice to be actually reassembling something. Today it was the engine. As you may recall I had stripped the TB, intake, and lower plenum so I could get at the starter to replace the contacts.
Put the coolant pipe back in place and was ready to tackle the injector/fuel rail seals. Had to pull the fuel rail assembly - easy as pie - 4 nuts.
Complete, as it came off the engine...
http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/93%204Runner/1UZFE/plenum-injectors/plenum-injectors%20001%20(Medium).jpg
Fuel rail assembly removed
http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/93%204Runner/1UZFE/plenum-injectors/plenum-injectors%20003%20(Medium).jpg
Fuel rail assembly (upsidedown)
http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/93%204Runner/1UZFE/plenum-injectors/plenum-injectors%20004%20(Medium).jpg
Injector in the rail - these pull straight out pretty easily.
http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/93%204Runner/1UZFE/plenum-injectors/plenum-injectors%20005%20(Medium).jpg
Rail with the injector removed.
http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/93%204Runner/1UZFE/plenum-injectors/plenum-injectors%20006%20(Medium).jpg
Here's an injector removed from the rail. The grommet and insulator was pretty brittle. The o-ring was still pliable, but a couple of injectors came out very easily. There was a little leaking that predicated this teardown.
http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/93%204Runner/1UZFE/plenum-injectors/plenum-injectors%20007%20(Medium).jpg
The injector with the old parts removed. From the left is the o-ring, the insulator, and the grommet.
http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/93%204Runner/1UZFE/plenum-injectors/plenum-injectors%20009%20(Medium).jpg
Here's a side by side with the new part - notice how in the last pic that the grommet was all deformed.
http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/93%204Runner/1UZFE/plenum-injectors/plenum-injectors%20008%20(Medium).jpg
P/N's (sold by each):
90301-07001 - O-Ring
23291-41010 - Insulator
90480-13005 - Grommet
Cebby
03-22-2006, 08:47 PM
I pulled the cam covers and cleaned them up nice in a parts washer (note to self, get parts washer for home shop).
They came out nice. Down the road after I've had this thing in and running for a while, I'll consider painting the covers and maybe the intake. Gotta head out to Lowes and find some rubber washers for the cam cover bolts. The old ones were shot.
All cleaned up...
http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/93%204Runner/1UZFE/cams-covers/cams-covers%20002%20%28Medium%29.jpg
Nice clean looking valvetrain...
http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/93%204Runner/1UZFE/cams-covers/cams-covers%20001%20%28Medium%29.jpg
It was good getting the intake back on:
http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/93%204Runner/1UZFE/Rebuild/intake%20back%20on%20%28Medium%29.jpg
Also discovered that the fan oilpump had another piece I could take off, so fabbing a coverplate to use the stock fan pump housing looks like it will work out.
Here's the other piece of the pump. I need to drive the pins out of the housing still.
http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/93%204Runner/1UZFE/fanpump-idler/oil%20pump%20dismantle%20012%20%28Medium%29.jpg
Might not look like it, but there is ample clearance for a 1/4 coverplate with pulley attached.
http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/93%204Runner/1UZFE/fanpump-idler/oil%20pump%20dismantle%20014%20%28Medium%29.jpg
Cebby
03-22-2006, 08:47 PM
Last but not least, I think I will likely be making a custom oilpan. This one came with a front sump and might work out, but I want to keep it a little lower in the frame if possible. Here's reference pics. I'd like to make it hug the diff like the one on the 3.0
The black part is steel, but the silver portion is aluminum.
http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/93%204Runner/1UZFE/oilpan/oilpan%20001%20(Medium).jpg
The back part of the upper pan is also the attachment point for the bellhousing. I might have to rethink this...
http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/93%204Runner/1UZFE/oilpan/oilpan%20006%20(Medium).jpg
Cebby
03-23-2006, 04:28 PM
Muzz over on Lextreme posted up his combo of the original with new alum grafted in.
http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/93%204Runner/1UZFE/oilpan/Sump%20from%20side%20(small)%20(Medium).jpg
Looks like a ton of work to me - I'd prefer to bolt together as much of this as possible for future swappers here in the US. If it fits and I can get it cheap, I'll attempt the 2UZ route. Even if I need to modify the steel part of the pan, it would be much easier.
Here's the Landcruiser version I found over on a tricked out Tundra over at Tundrasolutions (pics by jjc).
http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/93%204Runner/1UZFE/oilpan/CIMG00231%20(Medium).jpg
http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/93%204Runner/1UZFE/oilpan/CIMG00241%20(Medium).jpg
Cebby
03-29-2006, 07:24 PM
God do I love www.car-part.com (http://www.car-part.com). Located a 2UZ oilpan about 40 minutes from my house today.
Turns out, I also love stupid people. Some dimwit with an LX470 never changed the oil, so the engine seized. Good for me, bad for them. The boneyard swapped a rebuilt motor into the LX470 and had the seized one for parts.
I got some grea info out of all this and learned a few things.
#1 - the oilpan(s) and pickup tubes are interchangable between 1UZ and 2UZ (probably 3UZ also). Props to Budders On Marlin's board for suggesting this. There is an (*) though (nothing major more about this later)
Pulled the front sump to have a look at the top half and to take it with me. Matched it up at the yard.
http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/93%204Runner/1UZFE/oilpan/1uz-2uz-oilpans%20001%20%28Medium%29.jpg
Front sump steel pan:
http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/93%204Runner/1UZFE/oilpan/1uz-2uz-oilpans%20002%20%28Medium%29.jpg
Here's the front sump aluminum "ring"
http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/93%204Runner/1UZFE/oilpan/1uz-2uz-oilpans%20004%20%28Medium%29.jpg
Here they are side by side. The sludge filled one is the one off the LX470 (glad I have access to a parts washer).
http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/93%204Runner/1UZFE/oilpan/1uz-2uz-oilpans%20005%20%28Medium%29.jpg
Here's the (*). There's some sort of sensor on the 1UZ pan that doesn't appear to be used on the 2UZ. There's a knockout, but there aren't any mounting holes drilled/tapped. No big deal, I can drill/tap it. Not sure if I need the sensor or not.
http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/93%204Runner/1UZFE/oilpan/1uz-2uz-oilpans%20006%20%28Medium%29.jpg
#2 - the fan oil pump and idler assembly from the 1UZ and 2UZ are interchangable. Again, probably interchangable with the 3UZ also. This was better to spend $40 than to screw around trying to make my own or playing with shorter drive belts. I had already bought the standard 1UZ drive belt, so might as well use it.
http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/93%204Runner/1UZFE/fanpump-idler/2uz-idler%20%28Medium%29.jpg
#3 - the boneyard will still likely have the 2UZ intake and TB available when I tire of the 250 horses and want to bolt on a TRD blower. :D
In case folks are wondering, the reason for the 2UZ sump is for clearance. Notice all the room around the solid axle in the pics above. Since I'm heading this direction anyway, might as well plan for it. My thoughts (pre-axle swap) is that the 2UUZ pan will allow me to drop the motor down lower and to easily clear my steering/steering stabilizer. (I might be way off, but thats my theory anyway...) The other reason is that I'm much more comfortable customizing the 2UZ steel lower pan, then trying to TIG that cast alum like Muzz did on his. Hell, I could do a totally custom pan off of the 2UZ upper since I can get the flange pattern drawn up now and cut on the waterjet.
Cebby
03-30-2006, 08:27 AM
OK, who knows what sealant I'm supposed to use to attach the aluminum ring and the oil pan to the engine? What I pulled off appeared to be a silver sealant of some sort. Anyone know for sure? I'd prefer not to repeat my water pump escapades.
Cebby
04-07-2006, 05:01 AM
I was one with the parts washer tonight. I cleaned both the front sump setup I'm not using and the LX470 version I picked up last week.
Remember when I said I was thankful for stupid people? I was eating those words tonight when it took me at least an hour and a half to clean the sludge out of the oil pickup. With the screen on the pickup end and the severe bends in the tube, threading something down there was a challenge. At first I was using the 1UZ dipstick because I couldn't find a coat hanger. That only reached so far, then I came across a coat hanger to get the rest of the way in there. Mostly is was coming out in small hunks, the consistency of jello. Then I got a few big pieces that looked like large leaches. You know your oil is spent when you can pick it up in chunks... :roll:
Here's the guts of my 1UZ before I pulled the pickup tube.
http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/93%204Runner/1UZFE/oilpan/oilpan-cleaned%20001%20(Medium).jpg
http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/93%204Runner/1UZFE/oilpan/oilpan-cleaned%20002%20(Medium).jpg
The oilpan sure looks alot cleaner now...
http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/93%204Runner/1UZFE/oilpan/oilpan-cleaned%20003%20(Medium).jpg
I had visions of getting more done, but I didn't head down until after midnight and the pickup tube was an unexpected headache..
I did have some added excitement to the evening. Through the drudgery that was cleaning the pickup tube out, I thought I heard a bottle breaking. So I shut off the parts washer and go check it out. I sort of snuck up to one of the outside windows and looked out. I saw some punk breaking into the back of the gas station across the alley from where I was. I quickly called the police to tell them whats up. I was on the phone with them for maybe 2 minutes max and they had 2 or 3 cars buzzing around the scene (and they caught the perps I later found out via a phone call from the police) Turns out there were two perps. I live in a nice town and want it to stay that way...
For anyone interested, I'm selling off the parts I'm not using in a thread here. (http://www.yotatech.com/showthread.php?t=82282)
avenged7foldhc
04-07-2006, 05:39 PM
hehe.... perps...
Cebby
04-12-2006, 02:42 PM
Should I use the same black FIPG on the oil pickup tube where it meets the block? Reason I ask is that the 1UZ tube had no gasket whatsoever and the 2UZ tube had Toyota's paper gasket. FWIW, the 1UZ connection seemed to have gotten some crud on the surface between the two at some point in it's life.
Cebby
05-07-2006, 11:58 AM
This is from my two hour session Friday night.
In she goes for one of many test fits...
http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/93%204Runner/1UZFE/fitting/first_fitting%20028%20(Medium).jpg
Love working shoulder to shoulder with the bigblock Vette...
http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/93%204Runner/1UZFE/fitting/first_fitting%20029%20copy%20(Medium).jpg
Where it was meant to be...
http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/93%204Runner/1UZFE/fitting/first_fitting%20019%20(Medium).jpg
Discovered a few things with the initial test fit:
The stock oil filter mount is way too long and will interfere with frame rail. I will need to make/buy a remote mount or something shorter. I'll also investigate other UZ filter mounts - maybe there's an easy bolt on solution...
The stock exhaust mainfolds stick straight out from the heads which means contact with the steering and the top mounts for the A-Arms. I plan to do some more research on other stock manifolds, but a better solution that I'll likely take on is making a set of equal length runner block hugger headers.
The rear sump oil pan allows the engine to be set into the engine bay nice and low (as in no body lift required). I figure if this part gets solved, lifting the body higher later and adding a drivetrain lift will be child's play.
The steel part of the rear sump oilpan will need to be modified slightly to clear the front diff and one of the IFS mounts. The alterations will be pretty minor, so depending on the price of a new lower oilpan, the modified pan might be made toa stock pan or a new one will be built from scratch.
There's all sorts of space for the engine mounts. That will likely be one of the easier parts of the swap.
Took some manuevering, but I got the engine back nice and close to the firewall.
http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/93%204Runner/1UZFE/fitting/first_fitting%20018%20(Medium).jpg
Lots of room out front for radiator/fan.
http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/93%204Runner/1UZFE/fitting/first_fitting%20014%20(Medium).jpg
Here's the stock filter mount without a filter - even a stubby filter won't make it unfortuantely.
http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/93%204Runner/1UZFE/fitting/first_fitting%20027%20(Medium).jpg
This is before I had it back the whole way, but it still gets into the steering.
http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/93%204Runner/1UZFE/fitting/first_fitting%20003%20(Medium).jpg
What you can't see in the above pic is that the exhaust manifold is resting on top of the top of the A-Arm mount. Fabricating headers would be a first for me. I would make something similar to (the beautiful work) that "Mudman" from Lextreme did (I'll likely shorten the runners a bit before the collectors though):
http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/93%204Runner/1UZFE/customheaders/42%20(Medium).jpg
http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/93%204Runner/1UZFE/customheaders/43%20(Medium).jpg
http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/93%204Runner/1UZFE/customheaders/Headers4%20(Medium).jpg
http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/93%204Runner/1UZFE/customheaders/Headers5%20(Medium).jpg
And at the business end, there's just about an inch between the relay rod and the front of the rear sump oilpan - I forgot to see if the steering stabilizer would fit in it's stock position. I'm sure this thing will be in and out quite a few more times...
http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/93%204Runner/1UZFE/fitting/first_fitting%20022%20(Medium).jpg
The oilpan will only need to be "taken in" at the corners a little to clear the diff and the driver side IFS mount. (This part has me wishing it was already SFA) It will be a pretty easy alteration though...
http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/93%204Runner/1UZFE/fitting/first_fitting%20026%20(Medium).jpg
Next up, removing the exhaust manifolds and another test fit as well as some measurements...
http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/93%204Runner/1UZFE/fitting/first_fitting%20029%20copy%20(Medium).jpg
Okay, next trip to the garage I need more photos and details on the Corvette in the background.
OverkillZJ
05-07-2006, 06:57 PM
That thing's a beast.
Cebby
05-08-2006, 12:03 PM
"Budders" over on Marlin suggested looking at Tundra headers for my exhaust clearance problems. There are a few folks making headers for the 4.7, but I need to confirm that these actually fit the 1UZ heads.
JBA make a shorty header:
http://www.speedyperformanceparts.com/images/performance_new/images/jba/2010S.jpg
But I've got concerns that the big triangular flange they use won't clear the frame rails.
The other notable are Flowtech headers:
http://www.thepartsbin.com/images/perfthumbs200/flowtech/12110FLT.jpg
While these are a good efficient equal length design, the tube routing makes them pretty large - I doubt they'll fit the space available also.
Cebby
05-08-2006, 04:48 PM
These things came out further than I thought, the tale of the tape...
http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/93%204Runner/1UZFE/customheaders/header-measurements%20001%20(Medium).jpg
Almost 5 1/2" straight out from the heads. I need something that turns down instead of straight out.
http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/93%204Runner/1UZFE/customheaders/header-measurements%20002%20(Medium).jpg
http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/93%204Runner/1UZFE/customheaders/header-measurements%20004%20(Medium).jpg
Other side...
http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/93%204Runner/1UZFE/customheaders/header-measurements%20003%20(Medium).jpg
It appears the JBA headers won't work either due to where their shorty layout puts the collector flange (in my case this would be into the firewall. Big thank you to "Brad Bedell" on Lextreme for the pic. (He swapped a 1UZ into a Lexus IS300 Sportcross)
http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/93%204Runner/1UZFE/customheaders/sportcross35.jpg
Cebby
05-08-2006, 04:56 PM
Forgot to mention - the 1UZ, 2UZ and 3UZ use the same exhaust port layout...
Cebby
05-08-2006, 05:26 PM
Here ya go Bill... Vette Pr0n
How about a 502 big block crate motor?
http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/Shoptools/vette%20001%20%28Medium%29.jpg
Real side pipes....
http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/Shoptools/vette%20002%20%28Medium%29.jpg
http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/Shoptools/vette%20003%20%28Medium%29.jpg
The body is factory road race model with big molded in flares out back. I'll need to shoot a pic of the hood - it's crazy - all sorts of functional venting/louvers.
That is NICE!!!!
Is that yours too Cebby?
Cebby
05-09-2006, 08:43 AM
That is NICE!!!!
Is that yours too Cebby?
I wish. It belongs to a friend of the building's owner - an acquantance of mine also though - known these guys since 1990 or so. That's one in a long list of nice toys this guy has.
Cebby
05-09-2006, 11:13 AM
Check out the fit on Mudman's headers (see pics up above - with blue background)
He did some nice work on fitting those in amongst all of the IFS and tight 2nd Gen engine bay (pics by Mudman from Lextreme):
http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/93%204Runner/1UZFE/customheaders/Headerclearance5%20(Medium).jpg
http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/93%204Runner/1UZFE/customheaders/Headerclearance%20(Medium).jpg
http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/93%204Runner/1UZFE/customheaders/Headerclearance2%20(Medium).jpg
http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/93%204Runner/1UZFE/customheaders/Headerclearance3%20(Medium).jpg
http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/93%204Runner/1UZFE/customheaders/Headerclearance4%20(Medium).jpg
Mine will be slightly different, since my motor will sit a bit lower in the frame than Mudman's...
Cebby
08-01-2006, 07:29 AM
Finally got a chance for a 2nd Fitting yesterday. Thought I'd post up some long overdue pics...
These first two are for SuperRunner (shows the speed sensors on the A341E and A340F)
http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/93%204Runner/1UZFE/fitting/second_fitting%20009%20copy%20(Medium).jpg
The additional speed sensor the 1UZ ECU needs to see can be added easily to the A340F (since you need the input/planetary from an A341E which has the sensor tone ring on it already, it should be plug and play)
http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/93%204Runner/1UZFE/fitting/second_fitting%20010%20copy%20(Medium).jpg
I pulled the exhaust manifolds off so I could get a better fitting this time around. This was a big improvement... A few shots for reference:
Passenger Side:
http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/93%204Runner/1UZFE/fitting/second_fitting%20044%20(Medium).jpg
Is it just me, or does thing look like it's ALL MOTOR? :D
http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/93%204Runner/1UZFE/fitting/second_fitting%20043%20(Medium).jpg
Driver Side:
http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/93%204Runner/1UZFE/fitting/second_fitting%20042%20(Medium).jpg
Business End:
http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/93%204Runner/1UZFE/fitting/second_fitting%20041%20(Medium).jpg
After numerous adjustments, I think this last shot is pretty close to where it will sit. I will have to modify the steel oilpan (may make from scratch - probably easier) - jury is out on the pickup tube for now though. I need to pull the aluminum ring off to mount up the pickup tube and then go for a 3rd fitting. This is close to the final position - shifted it over a little to the right and there was good spacing all the way around.
http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/93%204Runner/1UZFE/fitting/second_fitting%20034%20(Medium).jpg
Here's a guess at the oilpan mods. Might be more, might be less...
http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/93%204Runner/1UZFE/fitting/second_fitting%20005%20copy%20(Medium).jpg
Clears the breather extension and ARB line perfectly. Although, I will likely raise it up some for breathing room.
http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/93%204Runner/1UZFE/fitting/second_fitting%20038%20(Medium).jpg
Now that I got it tucked down nicely, the motor mounts will actually be pretty short now. I measured and it appears they will be roughly 2 1/2" to 3" off the stock 3VZ rubber mounts.
http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/93%204Runner/1UZFE/fitting/second_fitting%20023%20(Medium).jpg
http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/93%204Runner/1UZFE/fitting/second_fitting%20019%20(Medium).jpg
http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/93%204Runner/1UZFE/fitting/second_fitting%20026%20(Medium).jpg
I am hoping to remove my 1" BL, but I'm still not sure that can happen yet. Going for low and planning to hack my fenders/footwells.
http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/93%204Runner/1UZFE/fitting/second_fitting%20021%20(Medium).jpg
(like my shim?)
Did another trial fit of the oil filter mount. Framerail clearance is an issue.
http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/93%204Runner/1UZFE/fitting/second_fitting%20007%20(Medium).jpg
On the left is the 1UZ filter on the right, the 3VZE. Neither of them make it.
http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/93%204Runner/1UZFE/fitting/second_fitting%20008%20(Medium).jpg
Looks like a relocation or more of a block hugger mount is in order.
Not sure yet, but it appears that the stock steering stabilizer location can be reused. Might be tight with the beefy OME though.
http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/93%204Runner/1UZFE/fitting/second_fitting%20027%20(Medium).jpg
jeepxj3
08-01-2006, 11:29 AM
Did another trial fit of the oil filter mount. Framerail clearance is an issue.
http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/93%204Runner/1UZFE/fitting/second_fitting%20007%20(Medium).jpg
On the left is the 1UZ filter on the right, the 3VZE. Neither of them make it.
http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/93%204Runner/1UZFE/fitting/second_fitting%20008%20(Medium).jpg
Looks like a relocation or more of a block hugger mount is in order.
I would go with a relocation kit. Only problem with those is the lines tend to leak.
OverkillZJ
08-01-2006, 12:56 PM
That's tight.. can't wait to see it done
Cebby
08-01-2006, 01:00 PM
.. can't wait to see it done
Me either.
Cebby
08-01-2006, 01:05 PM
Hey - anybody know what will take the paint off that the junk yards use to tag their wares? Not wild about this being on the final product.
jeepxj3
08-01-2006, 03:46 PM
Hey - anybody know what will take the paint off that the junk yards use to tag their wares? Not wild about this being on the final product.
They are just grease (SP?) pens, any degreaser should remove it.
Cebby
08-01-2006, 05:27 PM
It't not grease pens. I already tried the parts washer. No luck.
MF Steve!
08-01-2006, 05:56 PM
its most likely a paint marker...try some laquer thinner. if its on an automotive grade paint surface, the thinner will take off the marker, and not damage the auto paint.
Cebby
08-01-2006, 06:46 PM
Not paint pen either (although I have some of that to deal with also). Here's an example of what I'm talking about:
http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/93%204Runner/1UZFE/fanpump-idler/2uz-idler%20%28Medium%29.jpg
I'll try laquer thinner to see what that does...
automated1
08-01-2006, 11:55 PM
Looks like a good canidate for black krylon LOL
Cebby
01-23-2007, 04:02 PM
Not exactly tech, but some progress. Pulled the motor apart again...load going for powdercoating... I had all the big stuff hot-tanked.
The cam covers and intake will be dark dark blue and the fuel rails and related stuff and nuts/bolts will be gloss black. The fins on top of the upper intake will be either silver PC or raw and polished/brushed. I plan to paint the plastic plug cover ridges to match (silver).
http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/93%204Runner/1UZFE/powdercoating/parts_for_powdercoat_%20003%20(Medium).jpg
http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/93%204Runner/1UZFE/powdercoating/parts_for_powdercoat_%20004%20(Medium).jpg
andrew2516
01-23-2007, 05:25 PM
I just read through this thread for the first time. When do you think you will have it in and running?
I never realized, youre right over the hill from me. Are you going to be using the 4runner offroad?
Cebby
01-23-2007, 06:05 PM
I quit making predictions - at this point, it gets done when it gets done....
It will definitely be my offroader (just as it used to be). It had 33's on MT Classic II's which I sold - now it's getting 35's going on beadlocked factory alloys this time..."yes, they're street locks officer..." ;)
5.29 gears, ARB lockers front and rear, 9.5ti winch, and dual tcases with 4.7 gears in the rear case. Not sure on lift amount vs fender trimming - I'd prefer low and cut over monster truck. Right now it has a 1" body lift and just leveling rear coils that managed to fit 33's. I have parts to lift it more, but not sure I want to.
Hey Cebby, have you figured out the wiring yet? Now that Superrunner is casting bellhousings I may want to do a swap at some point.
Cebby
01-23-2007, 08:20 PM
Not yet. Apparently it is only 5 wires for it to run - the rest is plug and play using a complete ECU and harness.
For a manual, there is some other wiring needed (mainly resistors, etc) to fool the ECU into thinking it has an auto attached still - or you can go aftermarket ECU -> more money though...
I'll have all the other stuff figured out by the time you are ready - motor mounts, exhaust, cooling, etc...
gonecheenin
01-24-2007, 08:19 AM
WOW
you are a driven individual no doubt!
looking good man :gear_happy2:
OverkillZJ
01-24-2007, 10:17 AM
I quit making predictions - at this point, it gets done when it gets done....
You are a smarter man than I.
:040:
Cebby
01-30-2007, 12:37 AM
I'm looking to clean up the engine bay a bit prior to the next time the motor gets dropped in.
Here's some mystery wiring:
http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/93%204Runner/1UZFE/Teardown/enginebay/items_for_removal_%20001%20(Medium).jpg
http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/93%204Runner/1UZFE/Teardown/enginebay/items_for_removal_%20002%20(Medium).jpg
I think this was the igniter...
http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/93%204Runner/1UZFE/Teardown/enginebay/items_for_removal_%20006%20(Medium).jpg
This can come out - my wiring for the ADD solenoids (My ADD went away when I regeared and added ARB's)
http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/93%204Runner/1UZFE/Teardown/enginebay/items_for_removal_%20003%20(Medium).jpg
Need to shorten up the vacuum hose for the brake booster (I finally got the bolt out of my intake!) and also planning to replace the rear heat tubes (they are the rusty tubes below the booster)
http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/93%204Runner/1UZFE/Teardown/enginebay/items_for_removal_%20007%20(Medium).jpg
This will free up some room! Out with the ABS pump. The FROR full floater setup I plan to use isn't compatible with it anyway...
http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/93%204Runner/1UZFE/Teardown/enginebay/items_for_removal_%20010%20(Medium).jpg
andrew2516
01-30-2007, 07:32 PM
Looks good...theres always some random wiring:smoke:
Cebby
02-23-2007, 02:05 AM
Sneak peak:
http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/93%204Runner/1UZFE/powdercoating/completed/IMG_2942%20(Medium).JPG
It's a nice dark blue - nearly identical to the body color of my 4Runner - I think this pic is close to the real color.
http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/93%204Runner/1UZFE/powdercoating/completed/IMG_2938%20(Medium).JPG
More to come!
Cebby
02-23-2007, 02:26 PM
It should be noted that the PC work was done by Jeremy Loudin at Loudins Powder Coating (http://www.loudins.com). He's great to work with.
Cebby
02-23-2007, 02:47 PM
More goodness:
Lower intake:
http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/93%204Runner/1UZFE/powdercoating/completed/IMG_2943%20(Medium).JPG
Valve Covers:
http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/93%204Runner/1UZFE/powdercoating/completed/IMG_2961%20(Medium).JPG
jeepxj3
02-23-2007, 03:16 PM
awesome build!
Cebby
02-27-2007, 07:09 PM
More engine PC done (hub dials too):
http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/93%204Runner/1UZFE/powdercoating/completed/IMG_3015%20(Medium).JPG
http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/93%204Runner/1UZFE/powdercoating/completed/IMG_3014%20(Medium).JPG
http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/93%204Runner/1UZFE/powdercoating/completed/IMG_3013%20(Medium).JPG
OverkillZJ
02-27-2007, 07:11 PM
That's just way too pretty
Cebby
02-27-2007, 08:54 PM
Think that's pretty? Once he gets his bigger oven up and running, I'm having him do my 60" hi-lift, a couple of Jerry cans and all the housing pieces off of my 9.5ti.
mudforblood
02-27-2007, 09:00 PM
Looks good man!!
Powdercoat is the way to go. I got a whole 1ton dump bed blasted and powdercoated on one of our work trucks. There's a place on 422 that has one of the biggest ovens in the area, cheap too.
Cebby
02-27-2007, 09:14 PM
Is that Delp Family PC, Armor PC or Sharkskin Finishings? I need some big stuff done too.
mudforblood
02-27-2007, 09:38 PM
Is that Delp Family PC, Armor PC or Sharkskin Finishings? I need some big stuff done too.
Delp did the coating. It was a real good deal, I dropped the bed off at oesterlings to get it blasted and they transported to delp for them to coat. I picked it up at delp and payed them with one check to cover both. It was close to $1600 to blast the whole bed and two coats of powder on it. They even made a special rack to roll the bed into the oven sideways. I also had a truck rack we built blasted and one coat for around $125 IIRC. Good people to deal with.
Both places are cool to see in person. Oesterlings blasts and paints some real big things. There was a huge boom for a crane they were doing when I was there. And delp does alot of misc. weird things.
I called all of the places you listed and the biggest oven I could find was like 4ft square. They laughed when I said I wanted a whole dump bed done. You can drive a small car into delp's oven.
Cebby
02-27-2007, 10:07 PM
That's great to hear! I think that's where my buddy got the frame for his Vette done.
Cebby
07-30-2007, 10:30 PM
What, no one's curious?
Pardon the dust...
http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/93%204Runner/1UZFE/powdercoating/my_pics/parts_back%20002%20(Medium).jpg
http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/93%204Runner/1UZFE/powdercoating/my_pics/parts_back%20003%20(Medium).jpg
http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/93%204Runner/1UZFE/powdercoating/my_pics/parts_back%20004%20(Medium).jpg
These are much darker in person. A very close match to my 4Runner paint.
Cebby
07-30-2007, 10:30 PM
OK finally got a couple of hours to do some clean up and start assembling my 1UZ today.
First I installed the plug tube gaskets into the cam covers.
http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/93%204Runner/1UZFE/powdercoating/reassembly/plugsealinstall%20001%20(Medium).jpg
Hit them with a coating of oil to make it easy to insert them.
http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/93%204Runner/1UZFE/powdercoating/reassembly/plugsealinstall%20002%20(Medium).jpg
http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/93%204Runner/1UZFE/powdercoating/reassembly/plugsealinstall%20003%20(Medium).jpg
Here's where the inventiveness comes in... I took this shot on a timer and held the camera under my chin to get the shot (that was my 2nd try)
http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/93%204Runner/1UZFE/powdercoating/reassembly/plugsealinstall%20005%20(Medium).jpg
Here I've taped off the various passages so I can give it a cleaning - obviously not a Smitherz level of cleaning, but I wanted to get the grunge off of it while it's all apart. This is a pre-cleaning shot (although after the cleaning, it isn't vastly cleaner - at least I know it's clean...
http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/93%204Runner/1UZFE/powdercoating/reassembly/teaser_partassembled%20001%20(Medium).jpg
Here's some teasers with a few of the parts on the engine (not done cleaning yet though), plus I need to get bolts for the starter to reverse the mounting for easy removal.
http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/93%204Runner/1UZFE/powdercoating/reassembly/teaser_partassembled%20005%20(Medium).jpg
http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/93%204Runner/1UZFE/powdercoating/reassembly/teaser_partassembled%20006%20(Medium).jpg
http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/93%204Runner/1UZFE/powdercoating/reassembly/teaser_partassembled%20007%20(Medium).jpg
http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/93%204Runner/1UZFE/powdercoating/reassembly/teaser_partassembled%20009%20(Medium).jpg
Maybe a new avatar??
http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/93%204Runner/1UZFE/powdercoating/reassembly/teaser_partassembled%20008%20(Medium).jpg
Here's the color match. Since I was trying to match a dark metallic, I opted to match to the bright-sunlight version (as in the color it takes on when it sunlight). As anyone who has dark metallic paint can testify, it looks different in various lighting conditions. It's not exact, but it's a stock color I'll always be able to get.
http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/93%204Runner/1UZFE/powdercoating/reassembly/colormatch%20001%20(Medium).jpg
limegreentj
07-30-2007, 11:10 PM
that is a gorgeous engine
mudforblood
07-30-2007, 11:24 PM
The engine looks awesome! I wish I had the patience to build an engine like that these days. All I have time for is slam the new parts in and throw it in the vehicle. Actually, I don't even have time for that.:smirk:
I'm keepin an eye on your progress. I cant wait to see it installed!:gear_tounge:
AS always... Lookin good Cebby!
OverkillZJ
07-31-2007, 11:24 AM
Wow, it's actually starting to look like an engine!
Muzikman
07-31-2007, 11:31 AM
Wow, that is a serious timming belt.
burnyd
07-31-2007, 12:13 PM
Looks great.
jeepxj3
07-31-2007, 12:55 PM
wait, your not banned yet?:icon_fU:
Cebby
11-08-2011, 10:33 PM
FINALLY... Time for another chapter in this saga. (Getting this into my garage was a monumental feat - not due to maneuvering but due to finding a home for all the junk in my garage.
http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/93%204Runner/1UZFE/new-chapter.JPG
And yes, this is current and no, it's not photochopped...
OverkillZJ
11-09-2011, 09:19 AM
Oh wow, I didn't even know you still had the project, about time!
Cebby
11-09-2011, 02:40 PM
Yeah, I don't part with things too often...
Now that I have it in my garage, I think I might gut the engine compartment and clean it up/paint it. It's been this long....what's a little more time.
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