1976 CJ5 Resto/Mod

[HackFabrication]

Here's the build saga:

Project started as the classic $500 Jeep I towed home in December 1996:
http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r320/HackFabrication/BeforePic.jpg
I scrapped the body, and picked up a 'new' OEM steel tub from Willys-Overland in Toledo. This was welded up from NOS stampings. The fenders, dash, and windshield frame are all aftermarket (Taiwan) stampings. The grill is a genuine Jeep (Chrysler) item. Hood is the only remaining body part from the original Jeep. The corners and rockers are from 'off your rocker'.
http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r320/HackFabrication/TopandTopless.jpg
I've also recently added highback seats and a tilt column (no pics of that yet):

I had the stock frame boxed and a six-point roll cage built (Performance Off-Road in Alexandria, KY) along with rock sliders, although I don't have a pic of the tub with the cage installed.
The axles are stock narrow track Dana 30 / AMC 20. I converted the front to disc brakes using parts off an 84 CJ. The rear has Moser 1pc axles and 11" drums. Both have been regeared to 4.56 and have ARB lockers with stainless steel lines. They're hung on a BDS 2.5" SUA lift with ConFer 3/4" shackles. It's riding on a set of 32x11.50x15 TSL/SX tires, which are a disappointing 30.5" tall. Gonna go to a 34x9.50x15 TSL for replacements. Or go metric with 16" wheels.
Using the M.O.R.E. mounts caused some 'issues' with the stock skidplate/crossmember. I ended up ordering one from Throttle Down Kustoms and having to custom machine a new stabilzer stud because the Energy Suspension trans mount is 'taller' than a stock mount:
http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r320/HackFabrication/Skidplate.jpg
http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r320/HackFabrication/TorqueArmStuds003.jpg
It also placed the clutch fork arm real close to where the combination valve was supposed to mount:
http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r320/HackFabrication/MotorInFrame004.jpg
I ended up relocating it to get better clearance:
http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r320/HackFabrication/PropValvePlumbing001.jpg
Also had to 'cut the trans opening a bit':
http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r320/HackFabrication/JeepClutchLinkage007.jpg
All the brake lines are stainless steel that I purchased from Inline Tube (along with the combo valve). I'm debating whether to go vacuum or hydoboost. Money is naturally a factor.
The motor is a Ford Racing GT40 5.0L Crate Engine. One of my 'better' purchases off eBay. It came with the GT40 tubular manifold, B cam, 65mm TB, 24# injectors (and a whole lot of other Mustang stuff that got sold). I added the Ford Racing F-150 headers (had them Jet-Hot coated), and the Saginaw PS pump conversion was done with a bracket from Wild Horses and a Ford Racing AC eliminator kit. I removed the smog pump and smoothed off the bracket. The alternator is a 160amp unit from RJM Injection Technology as is the computer harness. I'm running a Goodyear 74.75" serp belt. The starter is a mini PMGR I picked up locally:
http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r320/HackFabrication/Motor003.jpg
http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r320/HackFabrication/HeaderProblems002.jpg
http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r320/HackFabrication/WiringProgress005.jpg
I'm hiding the ECM (A9L) behind the dash above the heater box (which was totally rebuilt and upgraded to a 3spd fan):
http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r320/HackFabrication/ECMPlacement001.jpg
The VSS is mounted on the firewall and connected with two cables from Lokar. You can also see how I Hack Fab'd the stock Mustang throttle cable:
http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r320/HackFabrication/VSSInstall007.jpg
I hid the Inertia Switch inside the Tuffy Glovebox:
http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r320/HackFabrication/InertiaSwitch.jpg
The transmission is a Ford T18 that I picked up (literally off the ground at Stevenson's in Highland-Damn I miss that place!) for $35. It was rebuilt, the stock CJ T18 shifter adapted to it, and I used the Jeep T18b mainshaft along with an adapter from Advance to mate it to the rebuilt, TeraLow'd, and twinstik'd Dana 20:
http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r320/HackFabrication/TrannyandT-case.jpg
The clutch is a LuK 11" pro gold. I Hack Fab'd up a clutch linkage bracket for the z-bar which allows me to use the stock Jeep CJ mechanical clutch:
http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r320/HackFabrication/ClutchBracket003.jpg
Here's how I worked the return spring issue:
http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r320/HackFabrication/ReturnSpringBracket004.jpg
The custom intank fuel pump for my TrailQuest 23gal tank (not a 'bolt on' by any means) was Hack Fab'd from a stock Jeep CJ pickup/sender and a stock Mustang unit (another eBay item with a 255lph pump):
http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r320/HackFabrication/FuelPump006.jpg
I was going to use stainless hard lines along the frame, but they proved too difficult to bend. So I went with stainless braided line from Russell and an Aeromotive inline filter:
http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r320/HackFabrication/FuelSystemPlumbing003.jpg
http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r320/HackFabrication/FuelSystemPlumbing001.jpg
Dealing with the mess:
http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r320/HackFabrication/WiringProgress006.jpg
I purchased the aftermarket replacement speedometer. What a pos. Sent it right back. Ended up finding a used OEM and taking the guts out of my 76's and putting them in the used case. My original was rusted through in one spot, and the fuel/temp gauges were shot. This worked out much better. Still looking for 'the right' oil pressure and voltmeter. The aftermarket ones are also crap...Sent those back too. Will probably use either Autometer or SW. Leaning toward SW as they were who Jeep used as a supplier. Had I to do this again...I would have went total custom dash. I just don't want to change directions now.
Finally, Finally got the intermittent wiper conversion to work. Turned out it was a bad (brand new, aftermarket, OMIX) 4 wire motor. I sent that back and although I've got a real nice used original....

[HackFabrication]

I managed to get the front fenders/grill installed before I took the header off my son's 400EX at SLSD on 9/15.
http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r320/HackFabrication/BrokenCollarbone003.jpg

Yeah, it hurts. Along with two broken ribs.

http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r320/HackFabrication/FrontEndPics001.jpg
Sorta set back the 'plan' to haul it over to the exhaust shop by the end of the September. Looks like I might get it over there in another week or two.
I did manage some work this past week (broken collarbone/ribs and all). Got the Coil bracket Hack Fab'd using a stock Mustang one:
http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r320/HackFabrication/CoilMount001.jpg
http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r320/HackFabrication/CoilMount002.jpg
I cut off one of the 'legs' and bent it into a 'L', then welded it to the original. It made a quick trip through the blast cabinet and a coat of POR-15 to seal it up.
The MAF posed a different problem as I wanted to use the stock Mustang tubing. I had an aftermarket MAF bracket that was made out of 1/16" (12ga?) steel that I cut and massaged with a BFH to fit the contour of the inner fender. When I got the height correct, I clamped it and welded it back together. It's made the trip through the blaster, but my dang shoulder hurts too much to take it apart again tonight. Tomorrow it'll get a coat of POR-15.
http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r320/HackFabrication/MAFMount004.jpg
http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r320/HackFabrication/MAFMount005.jpg
http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r320/HackFabrication/MAFMount003.jpg
I've got to design a shield for the K&N filter so the fan doesn't cause problems. Should be a simple thing to do with some stainless or aluminum sheet to shield the motor side of the filter.
I'm still 'crippled' with the use of 1.5 hands, but I managed to work on the RJM headlight harness yesterday:
http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r320/HackFabrication/HeadlightAlternatorHarnesses002.jpg
Only problem is that it was designed to plug into an early Bronco or other Ford product by using the existing headlamp connectors. The stock Jeep headlight plugs won't fit. I stripped the old headlight plugs out of the existing harness, and I've got a set of Ford plugs and connectors on the way. The white and the gray/blk wires are the existing Jeep headlight wires. I'll just crimp one onto the existing Jeep wiring, and then it should work fine.
http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r320/HackFabrication/HeadlightHarnessInstall001.jpg
I'm going to run a set of battery cables over to the driver's side inner fender. I'll use a couple stud mounts for power distribution. That way I can wire in additional lighting relays and a winch without cluttering up the passenger side fender area. There's not going to be much room left on that side once I get the ARB compressor mounted and wired/plumbed:
http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r320/HackFabrication/ARBMountArea002.jpg
Speaking of ARB...Those guys are great at ARB-USA. Since it's been almost ten years since I had the lockers installed, and I purchased the compressor last year...The original switches for the lockers were the old style push buttons, and wouldn't plug into the supplied wiring harness for the newer compressor:
http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r320/HackFabrication/ARBSwitches004.jpg
I Called ARB on Monday, they sent me two new rocker style ones...Gratis....Got them US mail on Thursday.
http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r320/HackFabrication/ARBSwitches005.jpg
Sweet customer service!
Got outside for a few hours and after debating the various options decided to just bolt the damn compressor to the inner fender. Here's what she looks like:
http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r320/HackFabrication/ARBInstallation002.jpg
http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r320/HackFabrication/ARBInstallation003.jpg
I ended up calling ARB USA tech support again because the directions weren't specific as to which way to put the solenoid on. They're stamped with a '1' and '2' each side. The '1' goes toward the compressor. In the second pic you can make out the '1' on the back side of each solenoid.
The compressor does vibrate the fender a bit when it's running, I might get a piece of 1/4" rubber to isolate the metal base from the inner fender. Haven't tried the actual lockers yet, perhaps tomorrow I put the jack under the axles and give it a shot of air...
I worked the ARB harness into the tub and finished up the RJM alternator charging kit:
http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r320/HackFabrication/ARBSwitches.jpg
And no...They aren't going to stay looped over the column. Got to Hack Fab up a switch plate.
http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r320/HackFabrication/AlternatorCable.jpg
http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r320/HackFabrication/AlternatorCable001.jpg
I'm getting the wiring organized right now. I'm going to need to fabricate up a couple battery cables as the stuff I got from Murray's isn't gonna cut it.
I got my son to come over and we put the old hood back on:
http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r320/HackFabrication/Hooded.jpg
http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r320/HackFabrication/Hooded001.jpg
Just a temporary situation until I can pick up a good used one. It'll help protect things when I'm towing it to the exhaust shop and the driveshaft shop.
Couple new developments:
Check out the custom side terminal studs my son machined for me:
http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r320/HackFabrication/BatteryCables002.jpg
The ones that were available on the aftermarket were just a bit too short. I'll be hooking up the ARB, Fuse Panel (check the Maxi fuse attached to the battery box in place of the original fusible link), and ECM power wires to them.
Also check out the way overkill 2/0 cables and how I ran power to the other side of the CJ:
http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r320/HackFabrication/BatteryCables003.jpg
http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r320/HackFabrication/BatteryCables004.jpg
http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r320/HackFabrication/BatteryCables005.jpg
I attached the headlight brightener harness to the terminal studs and I'll also use it for the winch and any additional auxiliary lighting relays.
The really 'sick' part is that the pics don't show the 'Hack Fabrication' lettering that was printed on the cables by the company I purchased them from.
Just a bit of 'Hack Humor'....
I also repaired the horn button on my sport steering wheel...Ya'll know the plastic lens that gets cracked/broken? Well I located a company in NY that sells watch crystals in various sizes, they aren't the fit of the original, but with a bit of Pliobond adhesive and some Permatex black....Just like new:
http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r320/HackFabrication/HornButton001.jpg
Next stop...Exhaust shop.
Project has hit another wall. I did manage to get it tow'd over to Keith's Muffler for the exhaust system:
http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r320/HackFabrication/ExhaustSystem001.jpg
http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r320/HackFabrication/ExhaustSystem007.jpg
http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r320/HackFabrication/ExhaustSystem003.jpg
http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r320/HackFabrication/ExhaustSystem006.jpg
http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r320/HackFabrication/ExhaustSystem005.jpg
It's 2.5" head pipes into a 3" pipe, running through a 3" Turbo muffler. Then out the back with a 3" tailpipe. Only complaint was the location of the O2 sensor on the driver's side. It's a bit low. I'll probably get it re-done when I pull the body next year for paint. Otherwise, good job and decent price for a 'custom' exhaust fab.
Added a bit of 'bling' to the driver's side plug wires:
http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r320/HackFabrication/WireLoom.jpg
I couldn't get the passenger side to work because the MSD wires I got were a few inches too short. The 'critical' side was the d/s because the wires were laying on the headers. I'll fix the p/s later...
Waiting for the custom 'Extreme' radiator to arrive via FedEx this Friday. Also I've decided to go with the hydroboost brake system. Just need to have Van at vanco give me a call...He was having a pre-Christmas sale with $100 off. Which will help me also get the dang power steering plumbed, as his kits include all the hoses and fittings for the install.
I haven't gotten the courage up to put gasoline in the tank and pressure test the fuel system. I was really hoping that the weather would get into the 40's so I could roll the heep out into the driveway and do it. I don't want to 'light up' my house for the holidays...At least that way.
Well, I got my hydroboost, but now I need to Hack Fab up some custom hose connections. The flare to -AN adapter fittings won't fit between the steering box and the lower radiator tank...Grrrrrr....
More setbacks....

[MF Steve!]

BADASS. I love seeing 5.0L motors in Jeeps! Looks like you know what you're doin!

[HackFabrication]

Thanks! I've got an embarrassing amount of money into this thing, and it's still not on the road yet. I was shooting for this fall, but that isn't gonna happen. I guess another year. Or two. At the very least I hope to get it plated before I turn 60 (Sept 2010).....

[john00TJ]

Looks good ..restos allways take up way too much time and money ..by the looks of things you didnt start out with much ..cant wait to see it finished

[DMG]

Very nice!

[HackFabrication]

Thanks some more!

On the 'to do' list:

Get the hydroboost/power steering plumbed
Get the radiator installed
Get the motor fired up
Get the brakes working
Get the driveshafts made/pinion angles set

Then I get to take it all apart, re-do some things, and get it painted... I keep praying the 'Overhaulin' crew will steal it, because I'm just one Hack trying to do the work of 30 guys who know what they're doing....

[Wrecker]

I think you should give your self more credit. That is some nice work.

[always broke]

Wow, thats real a nice 5.

[Bill]

Very nice Jeep build and an excellent write-up!

[pghjeeper]

Awsome quality work I like that you welded the original Jeep stampings back on the tub.

[JeepGeneral]

Awesome attention to detail, you must have a ton of patience.

[HackFabrication]

Awsome quality work I like that you welded the original Jeep stampings back on the tub.

Oh no....That's a whole story in itself. The tub is from Willys-Overland Motors when they were assembling OEM tubs with OEM stampings they had gotten from AMC. They must've run into some problems with Daimler-Chrysler by doing this, and now it appears they only 're-engineer' tubs from OMIX-ADA. The 'problems' was that they didn't have any more driverside stampings (with Jeep stamped in), they were using an aftermarket plain stamped piece. Sooooo....

They had a CJ6 door panel (goes from the firewall to just behind the door opening), I bought one of them along with the aftermarket panel, took it to a custom autobody shop and had them mate the two together. Presto: Stamped Jeep name.

The only original steel is the hood, which has got to be replaced..

[HackFabrication]

Awesome attention to detail, you must have a ton of patience.

No, not really. I just learned early on, that I shouldn't work on this when I'm pizzed at it. Or frustrated. Or out of ideas. Too many expensive things happen if I do....

I'll try and keep this up to date, but I'm just stalled right now. Too cold to warm up the garage, I'm waiting for 'parts', and I'm out of ideas....

[PurplePinzeR]

5.0L in a 5...sick

[joshs1ofakindxj]

after reading that I stood up and clapped. now my mom is yelling at me.

[Megamus]

..... someday mine will at least be to that stage



Looks perfect

[Sycotik Skier]

amazing work!

[HackFabrication]

Thanks!

[andrew2516]

I don't know how I missed this thread

Thats a bad ass build up, I really like the black.

[HackFabrication]

Okay, this is what I accomplished today. I Hack Fab'd up some prototype power steering tubes:
http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r320/HackFabrication/PowerSteeringTubes010.jpg

http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r320/HackFabrication/PowerSteeringTubes009.jpg

http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r320/HackFabrication/PowerSteeringTubes008.jpg

I bent them up using soft 3/8" copper, but the place that's gonna machine bend my custom ones will be using stainless steel for the tubes. And they will be brazing on the -AN fittings... I can only hope they fit when I get them back...

[OverkillZJ]

This is sweet...

[HackFabrication]

...Thats a bad ass build up, I really like the black.

Thanks, the black is just electro coat primer. I haven't decided on a final color yet. I've went from Prowler Yellow, to Red (the OEM color), then to some shade of OD.

Paint is unfortunately a year off....

[jeepxj3]

holy crap... How did I miss this tread all this time?!

Im ashamed with the progress I have made on my CJ... Once the big XJ comes off the road that might change...

[HackFabrication]

holy crap... How did I miss this tread all this time?!
I'm a recent member.

Im ashamed with the progress I have made on my CJ...
Don't be. I've been working and spending money on this for almost 12 years. And it still isn't running. My last plan was to have it running and start tearing it apart this summer for paint. Not gonna happen. I'll be happy to get the engine running, the steering steering, and the brakes braking. And just maybe have a set of driveshafts under it.

Thanks to all, I'll keep updating as I make progress.

[HackFabrication]

Okay, I got my hydroboost from Vanco. Only to discover that the fittings won't 'fit' on the steering box. Oh, they screw in okay...There just isn't any clearance for the grill shell....Soooo, I mocked up some in 3/8" copper:
http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r320/HackFabrication/PowerSteeringTubes010.jpg

http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r320/HackFabrication/PowerSteeringTubes009.jpg

http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r320/HackFabrication/PowerSteeringTubes008.jpg

I sent them off to Gene's Tubes N' Hoses in Missouri. He bent up a set out of stainless steel, silver soldered the -AN ends on:
http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r320/HackFabrication/PowerSteeringTubes.jpg

http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r320/HackFabrication/PowerSteeringTubes012.jpg

All looks good, I'll Hack Fab up a bracket for additional support when I tear the CJ down for paint. Now I'm dealing with the brake issue. I just ordered the fittings to run braided line from the master cylinder to the prop valve. They should be here in a couple of days. Then, it's start measuring and making up the lines.

More later...

[92YJCBG]

what a build, amazing work!

[Xplodedin]

Wow, I could only wish to have time to do some work like that. Nice job!

[HackFabrication]

Yeah, I'm finding out that it's a bit 'tight' down by the prop valve:
http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r320/HackFabrication/ProportionValve001.jpg

http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r320/HackFabrication/PropValvePlumbing001.jpg

http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r320/HackFabrication/ReturnSpringBracket004.jpg

I'm hoping that there will be enough room to run the braided lines. It's a real biotch with the clutch mechanism installed, so I think I'll take that apart before I start wrenching things on.

[HackFabrication]

Gotta attempt to get this big chunk of iron installed today:
http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r320/HackFabrication/Hydroboost001.jpg

http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r320/HackFabrication/Hydroboost003.jpg

[HackFabrication]

The weather warmed up, I did a sandblast job for a 'customer', and cleaned out the garage. Not much CJ work, but I did get the hydroboost bolted up to the firewall:
http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r320/HackFabrication/HydroboostInstall003.jpg

http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r320/HackFabrication/HydroboostInstall001.jpg

I'll crawl under the Jeep today and wrench the -AN adapter fittings into the prop/combo valve:
http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r320/HackFabrication/ProportionValve001.jpg

Then start 'measuring' for the braided lines....

Looks like I will need to install an electric fan. The OEM Mustang fan hangs below the lower tank.....

[HackFabrication]

Here's what got done today:
http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r320/HackFabrication/HydroboostInstall008.jpg

http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r320/HackFabrication/HydroboostInstall009.jpg

http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r320/HackFabrication/HydroboostInstall011.jpg

I'm waiting for the inline power steering filter to arrive UPS from Texas. So when it shows up, I'll splice it into the rubber line. When the master cylinder to combo valve lines get here from Missouri, I can 'think' about bleeding the brakes.

Hope to do an engine start before the end of this month....

[Xplodedin]

Dude you should have video taped your work. Looks better work than some of these lame a** 4x4 shows.

[HackFabrication]

Thanks! It's far from 'perfect', but I can absolutely state that I'm pleased with all the work I've done. (Just not real pleased with some of the 'proffessional' work I paid for.)

[Zoediak]

I am new here and been modifying jeeps for quite a while...

usually my customers dont want to pay for high end details like you are doing with that CJ...

it seems that the only people I can get to spend decent money on a project are the classic car guys I do projects for


Great work and excellent attention to detail !! I just wish I was a bit closer so I could actually see it in person, looks impressive!

[HackFabrication]

The custom length SS brake lines arrived:
http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r320/HackFabrication/HydroboostInstall012.jpg

Also the inline power steering filter arrived yesterday. I'll splice that into the system after I've bled the hydraulic lines. Which will be, hopefully, after I get the engine started. Only thing left to do before I turn the key is get some radiator hoses.

It looks like I might just meet that 'end of month' deadline for getting it running.

[HackFabrication]

Well, I determined that the stock Mustang was not going to work. It's too big, and actually hangs down below the lower radiator tank. So, it's time to think electric.
Went to Scrap Busters and loaded up a wheelbarrow full of fans. I got a Contour dual fan, two 3.8L Taurus fans, and two T-Bird (3.8L & 4.6L) fans. The Taurus fan could work with some Hack Fab'n to the shroud. Here's what I was thinking: Taurus fan, CJ shroud:
http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r320/HackFabrication/TaurusFanandCJShroud001.jpg
Put them both together:
http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r320/HackFabrication/TaurusFanandCJShroud002.jpg
Looks factory. There would be a bunch of trimming to the Taurus shroud, and then some 'filler', either vinyl or rubber, to bridge the gaps. But it might work. But it's a real power hog.
The T-Bird fans are 18" fans. Way too big for my 16" radiator core. But I bet they really move the air.
Now comes the Contour fan:
http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r320/HackFabrication/ContourFan001.jpg
http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r320/HackFabrication/ContourFan002.jpg
Damn that's sexy! And only a minimum of trimming:
http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r320/HackFabrication/ContourFan008.jpg
http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r320/HackFabrication/ContourFan011.jpg
http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r320/HackFabrication/ContourFan010.jpg
It slid into my Extreme 4-row radiator (core has been offset 3/8"). And fits 'like a glove'.
http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r320/HackFabrication/ContourFan012.jpg
I'm researching both the DCcontroller and the SPAL controller. But right now I've got the fan torn down for cleaning, some additional trimming, and Hack Fab'n up the mounts.

[HackFabrication]

I got the power steering cooler/filter installed:
http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r320/HackFabrication/ContourFan022.jpg

And went to work on the Contour Fan install. The FK-35 Delta Current Controller was a no go. If anyone is interested as why, send me a PM and I'll tell you the 'story'.

So... Flex-A-Lite to the rescue. Their new controller will work with fans up to 35amp continuous draw. More than enough for my dual Contour fans, and probably enough to run a 3.8L Taurus fan. Here's some pics of the install:
http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r320/HackFabrication/ContourFan019.jpg
Mounting the controller:
http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r320/HackFabrication/ContourFan029.jpg
Wiring/placement of the 30amp Maxi fuse for the controller (other is main power fuse):
http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r320/HackFabrication/ContourFan027.jpg
The FAL controller uses a regular temp probe, which I could insert into the water neck on the 5.0L:
http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r320/HackFabrication/ContourFan026.jpg
Routing the switch wires:
http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r320/HackFabrication/ContourFan032.jpg
A bit of conduit to finish it off:
http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r320/HackFabrication/ContourFan038.jpg
Switch and lights mounted:
http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r320/HackFabrication/ContourFan037.jpg
The controller will allow for an 'Always Off' and an 'Always On' position. It works by grounding the unit. I wired it to a DPDT switch with a yellow light for 'On', and a red light for 'Off'.

The FAL controller uses PWM to soft start the fan. It basically 'hits the motors' with a brief pulse of voltage to get them started, then gradually brings up the power. No need for relays. Downside: It makes a 'rattling' sound when it first starts. I don't think with the engine running, that I will ever hear it.

I also got the radiator hoses fitted, dumped three gallons of coolant in, and I'm just about ready to attempt and engine start.

Or have a bonfire in my driveway. Either way some beer will be drank.

[OverkillZJ]

I love the details.

[HackFabrication]

Thanks! Just hope it doesn't look like this when I try to start it:
http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r320/HackFabrication/Posting%20Pics/OnFire.jpg

[Macabre]

Oh, that poor YJ!

[doublejz]

coming together nicely. I likey :023::023:

[HackFabrication]

Then it died....

I started the heep on 7/5. Actually, I started and stopped it four times. On the fifth attempt... Nothing. Nada. Zip. Chit.....

Took a week to diagnose the problem: Bad pickup in the TFI distributor. And since the Ford design is such a gem, you've got to remove the dizzy from the engine, drive a pin out of the gear, press the gear off... All so you can pull the shaft out and get at the stator/pickup. I dropped $170 at NAPA for a new stator and TFI module (old one checked out, but I'm gun shy...). Put it all back together, and IT RUNS!!!!

I hope... Anyway, it's started more than the four times it did previously. I got the timing set, but now the power steering pump is growling at me. Probably has a bunch of air in the system, since everything is either new or rebuilt...

One step forward... Two steps back.

[HackFabrication]

Got the powersteering pump to stop bitchin' at me. It took a couple days of bleeding it, but now it purrs like a kitten. However...

The heep developed a coolant leak (and a brake fluid and power steering line leak). The coolant one was a major concern, as it was coming from the rear of the engine.

Turns out, it was the two 3/8" pipe plugs I installed in the lower intake. I guess 'snug' wasn't good enough. So I reefed on them... No leaks.

Still working the brake line and power steering line issues...

[HackFabrication]

Get two leaks sealed, and two more develop. I'm beginning to feel like that little Dutch boy. I'm thinking about changing my handle to Van der Hack.....

[92YJCBG]

Thanks! Just hope it doesn't look like this when I try to start it:
http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r320/HackFabrication/Posting%20Pics/OnFire.jpg

i was skimming the pics and wasnt reading and thought this happernd to your rig, thank god.


great build,awsome pics and step by step info.

good work!

[BigDukeSix]

Someone should call Four Wheeler magazine!!! What an awesome build!!! Great work!!! That thing looked ready for the junk yard when you dragged it home!!! Makes me want to build something again.. I built a HD chopper in my basement 11 years ago but I don't think a Jeep will fit..LOL..
Keep up the good work I hope to see it in person someday.

[HackFabrication]

Thanks! Anyway, it looks like one of the two plugs in the lower intake is still leaking. Of course it's the one that's a real biotch to get at. I'll crawl up onto the engine and remove it, wrap it in some Teflon tape and tighten in down.

The leak in the front is either the T-stat gasket or the upper radiator hose. That particular hose clamp is not an easy one to get at either.

Still need to bleed the master cylinder and the brake lines.

I'm a bit pizzed at the whole thing, so when that happens: I walk away from it. Best to 'chill' for awhile, instead of creating more problems...

[BigDukeSix]

Yeah it really sucks when you spend a ton of time making it perfect (which it appears to be) only to get bogged down by what seems to be an endless line of nuisance problems.. It will be all the sweeter when done. I have to agree with some of the other posts that you should have video taped it. It would make an awesome build book or video and it does put most of that shit on TV to shame, especially with a real dude doing it not some cast and crew.

[HackFabrication]

Thanks! Sometimes, we all need a bit of encouragement to 'get going' again. I went out and tightened up the radiator hose, I had to move the dizzy, so it'll need to be timed again. No biggie. There isn't any more coolant leaking from the rear, so I'm wondering if it was just some leftovers from between the bellhousing and the spacer plate. I'm not seeing a bunch of brake fluid, but I know there are a couple of leaks. And I have a feeling that both of the wheel cylinders (and possibly the calipers-all new 10+ years ago) are probably frozen. I won't know until I bleed/test the brakes.

Since I got my digital camera, I try and take lots of pics. The internet is, afterall, multi-media. People probably get tired of seeing some of the same stuff over and over again, but I like to see pics from people when I ask questions. You never can tell when you might 'see something' that you can use. Or Hack Fab for your project.

What no one ever sees on TV is the 'staff' of knowledgable wrenches that are doing most of the 'grunt' work on those projects. Not to mention the HUGE shops that they work in. I'd love it if I didn't have to work around my lawn mower, the wife's crap, and my Harley-Davidson. And have access to the endless array of machine tools, steel, bolts/nuts, etc.

[BigDukeSix]

Like a said, a real dude doing real work. I built my V-twin chop in my basment. No outsdie access. Tore it down and built it again on my patio...Your rig is going to be awesome. Actually it already appears to be.

[HackFabrication]

Thanks again!

[HackFabrication]

Finally got the CJ5 over to JCR Offroad on December 6, 2008, for a list of things that I either couldn't do, didn't want to do, or just didn't have the time/equipment to do. The trip there was uneventful as the snow hadn't fallen, and I pulled it behind my Blazer with the towbar.
The trip to pick it up went like this:
It started out at 9AM to get the u-haul trailer: Covered with snow, lights weren't working, three times as much safety chain as you'd ever need. Two hours to Kazoo to get the CJ, stop for gas 1/2 mile before the shop, have problems with a gas pump (and the dumb toothless biotch behind the counter), move to another pump and fill it up.

Get to the shop at around 1pm, shut off the Blazer, go inside to check on the CJ (they're finishing up the tow bar brackets, so I snap a few pics. Then I go outside to position the trailer for easier loading.... Blazer no start. Cranks, but no start. Daryl and Brian work on it, still no start. By this time I've called my brother (who lives in Tecumseh) to come rescue me with his pickup and he's on the way. It's 2pm now.

We mess around with the Blazer for another 40 minutes, but it's getting late, so I go inside and call AAA for a tow back home. They cover the first 100 miles, so I have to pay for the extra 30-40 miles. AAA says an hour. It ends up to be two. In the interim my brother shows up with his Chevy PU, we hook up the u-haul (thank God he has the 7 to 4 converter plug), and position it for loading. The CJ comes out of the shop with Daryl at the wheel (under its own power...WooHoo!), and the front wheels start to skid. Brakes are sticking. Of course the snow/ice in the parking lot isn't helping matters either. So Daryl and I messed around with them, don't come up with a short term resolution, and it's getting around 4:30.

AAA shows up, I go to put the Blazer in neutral so he can winch it up on the flatbed, and I think: Hell I'll try and start it. You guess it: Started right up. Driver asked what I wanted to do. Yeah, 4:45pm getting dark, snow on the way. No way was I going to drive it back home. I told the driver he's gonna tow it, I'm not going to trust it now. I toss the driver a $20 and tell him to get dinner on the drive back to Kazoo.

In the mean time we've hook up the winch, thinking that we might have to winch the CJ up onto the u-haul. Daryl drives the CJ out into the lot, he get's it lined up and drives it onto the trailer. Where we find that the front wheel nets/tiedowns aren't long enough to work with my 32" tires. Even though I SPECIFICALLY asked the guy if they would work on my 32" tires, and he told me they would work on 17" truck wheels. These wouldn't work on 14" trailer rims. Luckily, my brother carrys all sorts of crap in the bed of his truck and he had three heavy duty straps that we used to span the difference.

Two hours later (and about 400 deer sightings-no shortage of whitetail between Battle Creek and Jackson) we are in front of my house on the packed snow over ice covering the street. I jump aboard, fire up the 5.0L, and attempt moving the CJ off the trailer (it didn't want to move - front brakes). Finally get it off, then several attempts (and some floor dry) to get it up the small 'dip' onto my clean driveway. Too bad the last 'professional shop' that did the exhaust didn't leave adequate room for the front driveshaft, 4WD would've been handy with sticking front brakes. Which is what I believe is the problem. Hell, the rebuilt front calipers have only been on the CJ for ten years without any brake fluid in them. Probably will have to R&R them. Anyway the ARB locker in the rear functions well. As does the SBF making a nice roar in the quiet 'hood at 7PM. It's resting comfortably in the garage again.

Anyway, I'm super happy with the work the shop did. Here's some pics of the new winch bumper, and the reworked rear tire carrier with Jerry Can and Hi-Lift mounts:
http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r320/HackFabrication/JeepBumper003.jpg
http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r320/HackFabrication/JeepBumper004.jpg
http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r320/HackFabrication/JeepBumper002.jpg
http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r320/HackFabrication/JeepBumper001.jpg

Trans Cover (Sweet):
http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r320/HackFabrication/TransCover001.jpg
http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r320/HackFabrication/TransCover002.jpg
They also cut the rear spring perches, spun the axle and set the pinion angle for the new Tom Woods CV driveshaft (I've got a new TW front one too-just not installed. See above.). And a bunch of 'little stuff'.
:thumbsup: JCR Offroad. These guys do good work at a very reasonable price. They'll be seeing my CJ again this spring/summer.

[Wrecker]

I was wondering where you have been.

[HackFabrication]

Under a foot of snow.

http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r320/HackFabrication/Posting%20Pics/Jan112009.jpg

And more on the way.