92' YJ axle fullsize swap w/38.5's

[gonecheenin]

Whelp,
-obviously stripped the old axles out,
-did a bunch of frame rust repair a while back,
-got the 14 bolt Semi-float's diff welded up solid,
-tubes cleaned,
-rock snagging webbing cut out of the bottom side,
-Hybrid rear springs made from Dodge front mains & wrangler spring packs moving the axle back 1.25"s
-trimmed main eye hangers to lower & strengthen
-modified shackles for ideal length with the 48" springs
-new perchs welded on and axle stuffed into place
Still need some stuff like upper u-bolt plates for a 14 bolt, a crossover joint for the rear shaft, u-bolts, and brake parts
But all in all I'm pleased with the progress 8)

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v83/BlackListWheelers/Gonecheenin/92%20YJ%20May07/0404082018.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v83/BlackListWheelers/Gonecheenin/92%20YJ%20May07/0614081638.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v83/BlackListWheelers/Gonecheenin/92%20YJ%20May07/0614081634.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v83/BlackListWheelers/Gonecheenin/92%20YJ%20May07/0614081635.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v83/BlackListWheelers/Gonecheenin/92%20YJ%20May07/0614081745.jpg

[Peccavi18]

Looks good, what ya gonna be running up front?

[92YJCBG]

nice! what are you putting under the hood?

[gonecheenin]

Looks good, what ya gonna be running up front?


-Ford 3/4 ton HPD44 with Chevy 6 lug outer parts,
-Alloy USA 4340 inner shafts (will have alloy outers eventually, but not until I can afford CTM/Yukon steering joints, till then the fairly strong stock stubs will act as a fuse),
-TSC/junkyard full hydro steering,
-and eventually a selectable locker (but will probably be just a welded diff for now)


All suspended on custom packed & reversed Toyota 20.5x27.5 80'-88' 4x4 pickup main springs - as soon as I can find a set with good mains (the two sets I have need main eye bushings replaced cause of seizing)





nice! what are you putting under the hood?


Umm, nothing more then is already there in the stock 260,000 mile 4.0 & auto trans

[gonecheenin]

This is pretty darn close to where everything should sit once I get the rest of the parts I need;

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v83/BlackListWheelers/Gonecheenin/92%20YJ%20May07/000_0142.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v83/BlackListWheelers/Gonecheenin/92%20YJ%20May07/000_0143.jpg

[MF Steve!]

Schweet!

[SirFuego]

It took you this long to post pics from April 16, 2002?!? :flipoff2:

Very nice, Jay! You going to cut the boggers?

Hopefully, I'll get to see this at Big Dogs in Sept!

[gonecheenin]

It took you this long to post pics from April 16, 2002?!? :flipoff2:

Very nice, Jay! You going to cut the boggers?

Hopefully, I'll get to see this at Big Dogs in Sept!


Hmmm, calender is apparently in need of being set :owned:


Doubtfull on the cutting, but we'll see once they get some wear on them (I've heard about Boggers hardening up once worn down, if that happens I'll probably chop em' up)

I'm hoping to have it ready for a few rides before Big Dogs, but my main goal is having it ironed out & ready for the Main Jambo (While wheeling it down there on 33's was fun, I'm ready to wheel the place without having to pick every last line through the rocks perfectly :003: :046: )

[MF Steve!]

Comp cut rear and flatty toob fenders up front?

[DMG]

-Ford 3/4 ton HPD44 with Chevy 6 lug outer parts,
-Alloy USA 4340 inner shafts (will have alloy outers eventually, but not until I can afford CTM/Yukon steering joints, till then the fairly strong stock stubs will act as a fuse),
-TSC/junkyard full hydro steering,
-and eventually a selectable locker (but will probably be just a welded diff for now)


All suspended on custom packed & reversed Toyota 20.5x27.5 80'-88' 4x4 pickup main springs - as soon as I can find a set with good mains (the two sets I have need main eye bushings replaced cause of seizing)







Umm, nothing more then is already there in the stock 260,000 mile 4.0 & auto trans

If you are using the 48 inch yota rear springs (I put them up front in the 4runner, btw) you may have to burn the bushings out and put eurothane in. They will flex pretty well after they break in.

I will be cutting the parts off that axle this week. What parts do you want so I don't scrap anything you need?

This project is looking great, I cant wait to see it on the trail.

[gonecheenin]

Comp cut rear and flatty toob fenders up front?

Don't really like the looks of a comp cut, for now I'm just gonna trim to fit the tires in the rear & Trim up to the hood latchs in the front I think, then see how it turns out


If you are using the 48 inch yota rear springs (I put them up front in the 4runner, btw) you may have to burn the bushings out and put eurothane in. They will flex pretty well after they break in.

Yep, custom built packs with Toy 20.5 x 27.5 mains run backwards to put the 20.5 long part forward at the shackle

The stock rubber that bad? (I'm planning to run full hydro, so I won't have much side to side force to deal with)




I will be cutting the parts off that axle this week. What parts do you want so I don't scrap anything you need?

Thats actually one of the parts piles currently holding me up now

I need everything from the steering knuckle/balljoints out, including the knuckles & axle stubs

If you just hack the axle side mounted C on the inside of the ball joints & cut the inner axles inside the yokes (or just hack the tube apart right inside the axle C) & I'll do the rest :023: (If you could save the balljoints, tierod, brake calipers, brake hoses, etc... best you could, I would be appreciative)

[DMG]

Don't really like the looks of a comp cut, for now I'm just gonna trim to fit the tires in the rear & Trim up to the hood latchs in the front I think, then see how it turns out



Yep, custom built packs with Toy 20.5 x 27.5 mains run backwards to put the 20.5 long part forward at the shackle

The stock rubber that bad? (I'm planning to run full hydro, so I won't have much side to side force to deal with)





Thats actually one of the parts piles currently holding me up now

I need everything from the steering knuckle/balljoints out, including the knuckles & axle stubs

If you just hack the axle side mounted C on the inside of the ball joints & cut the inner axles inside the yokes (or just hack the tube apart right inside the axle C) & I'll do the rest :023: (If you could save the balljoints, tierod, brake calipers, brake hoses, etc... best you could, I would be appreciative)


The stock rubber is pretty good. The problem is getting the bolt out of the sleeve. I will try to get that axle cut up asap.

[gonecheenin]

The stock rubber is pretty good. The problem is getting the bolt out of the sleeve. I will try to get that axle cut up asap.

Hoping to go with new mains to solve that issue

Sweet let me know soon as we can make it happen :047:

[RalphDogg]

bigzees ol' jeep is taking shape.

[gonecheenin]

DMG, I found out today that a stock YJ poly spring bushing kit works real sweet in Toy springs if you shave the sleeves down an 1/8" (Least for offroad use anyway)


bigzees ol' jeep is taking shape.

Yes it is :drool:

[YZEATER]

looking good.

i see everyone else is giving ya a hard time about throwing some 1-tons under there, so i won't have too.:081:

btw, i just picked up something tonight that would solve the little axle sydrome. :006:

[MF Steve!]

DMG, I found out today that a stock YJ poly spring bushing kit works real sweet in Toy springs if you shave the sleeves down an 1/8" (Least for offroad use anyway)



Yes it is :drool:

If you remove the stock sleeve along with the rubber busing from the 'Yota leaves, you can replace using some 1.5" exhaust pipe for a new sleeve, and a 1.5" poly bushing. Slice the exhaust tubing lengthwise with an angle grinder, and that will allow you to get it in there fairly easily. Worked very well on DMG's springs.

[gonecheenin]

looking good.

i see everyone else is giving ya a hard time about throwing some 1-tons under there, so i won't have too.:081:

btw, i just picked up something tonight that would solve the little axle sydrome. :006:

:flipoff2:

I got a credit card here that will be plenty of help for that axle syndrome :gear_cool2:

Come on everybody, can you say "Alloy USA 4340's (Ford inners & GM outers) with CTM joints" :040:




But now you gotta tell me what you bought (I want one of those Crew Cab Chebby's to replace my Stroke' someday) :hijacked:




If you remove the stock sleeve along with the rubber busing from the 'Yota leaves, you can replace using some 1.5" exhaust pipe for a new sleeve, and a 1.5" poly bushing. Slice the exhaust tubing lengthwise with an angle grinder, and that will allow you to get it in there fairly easily. Worked very well on DMG's springs.

Hmm, I'll keep that in mind in case this doesn't work out as well as it looks like it will

[baadman28]

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[gonecheenin]

Still a major work in progress, but its working out real well so far :039:


http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v83/BlackListWheelers/Gonecheenin/92%20YJ%20May07/000_0153.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v83/BlackListWheelers/Gonecheenin/92%20YJ%20May07/000_0154.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v83/BlackListWheelers/Gonecheenin/92%20YJ%20May07/000_0155.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v26/seismik/4x4/Big%20Dogs%202008/MAIN_JAMBO_08_014.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v26/seismik/4x4/Big%20Dogs%202008/MAIN_JAMBO_08_015.jpg



http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v26/seismik/4x4/Big%20Dogs%202008/MAIN_JAMBO_08_029.jpg







http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v26/seismik/4x4/Big%20Dogs%202008/0920081023.jpg
http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y259/hassingermotorsports/12-14-08/DSC02178.jpg
http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y259/hassingermotorsports/12-14-08/DSC02179.jpg

[fast250r]

That thing turned out nice. I want to go full size under mine also.

[92YJCBG]

I want it!

[gonecheenin]

"Groovy" Boggers :040: :paranoid:


http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v83/BlackListWheelers/Gonecheenin/92%20YJ%20May07/Grooving%20Swampers/1007091748.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v83/BlackListWheelers/Gonecheenin/92%20YJ%20May07/Grooving%20Swampers/1007091843.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v83/BlackListWheelers/Gonecheenin/92%20YJ%20May07/Grooving%20Swampers/1008091925.jpg

[limegreentj]

neat :D lol

[Krod]

http://images.quizfarm.com/1125018696cleveland1.gif


OH THAT'S NASTY :003:



:s-chainsaw:

[limegreentj]

lol :044:

[mudforblood]

Noice! If a tire could have a mullet then it would look like that. :042: Business at the bottom, party at the edge.

[gonecheenin]

:gear_lol2:


I truly tried to retain the features I love about a Bogger, while increasing its slippery surface bite/crawl ability.


Time will tell if I got it right!

[limegreentj]

you cant really ruin a boggers tread though...no matter how much you cut it up...unless you cut all the lugs OFF

[CESCO]

looks good. I have been wanting to cut some grooves in mine, but never got around to doing it. let us know if you notice a difference for side bite. that is one of the major complaints that i have with running the boggers.

[gonecheenin]

The sexyness has arrived :104: :icon_pray: :santa: :040: :029:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v83/BlackListWheelers/Gonecheenin/92%20YJ%20May07/doubler/Doubler.jpg

[gonecheenin]

Oh, and the Bogger groovin was worth every second of the 12 hours I spent doing it.

Last weekend I crawled things I use to have to hit with throttle, flat out frickin' amazing differance!!!!! :032:

[cityslicker]

Oh, and the Bogger groovin was worth every second of the 12 hours I spent doing it.

Last weekend I crawled things I use to have to hit with throttle, flat out frickin' amazing differance!!!!! :032:


I love learning this shit from you guys..... :073:

[gonecheenin]

As most of you already know - I got a touch of body damage this past weekend



I got a little wrenching to do now too - But I made it up on the House rock!!! :040:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v83/BlackListWheelers/Gonecheenin/BDS%20OBA%209-18-10/0918101808.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v83/BlackListWheelers/Gonecheenin/BDS%20OBA%209-18-10/0918001730.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v83/BlackListWheelers/Gonecheenin/BDS%20OBA%209-18-10/th_VE950918001722.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v83/BlackListWheelers/Gonecheenin/BDS%20OBA%209-18-10/?action=view&current=VE950918001722.mp4)







As a result of this unexpectedly needed body work, I chose to do a few upgrades.
As of 6 pm today, my guy at 4WP's Cleveland is in the process of sending me these;

http://www.genright.com/images/products/TFF4800_MULTI_md.jpg



These;

http://www.genright.com/images/products/TFR1001_MULTI_n_md.jpg



And this;

http://www.genright.com/images/products/FBB2210_MULTI_md.jpg



Stay Tuned. :032:

[ridgerunner97]

Hot Damn Jay, that thing is gonna be an armored tank now!

[gonecheenin]

Hot Damn Jay, that thing is gonna be an armored tank now!


Not quite - ain't doing much to the tub itself until I have time to swap on the solid replacement I got off Krod.


But the front sure outta be pretty solid when it's all said & done.

Now I just need to find a YJ 4.0 cooling fan with clutch, or spend the money to buy the Flex-a-lite setup for the last pc in the puzzle.

[Krod]

Not quite - ain't doing much to the tub itself until I have time to swap on the solid replacement I got off Krod.


But the front sure outta be pretty solid when it's all said & done.

Now I just need to find a YJ 4.0 cooling fan with clutch, or spend the money to buy the Flex-a-lite setup for the last pc in the puzzle.

Hahah noice!!

You should bring those front fenders by so I can test fit 'em before I make the tabs to mount the grill. lol.

Let me know when you're swappin the tub. I'm down to wrench on something other than my junk.

[gonecheenin]

You should bring those front fenders by so I can test fit 'em before I make the tabs to mount the grill. lol.

Your welcome to grab em for a mock up real quick if you want, but the window of opportunity is pretty narrow since I wanna have them on in time for our Wellsville trip the second weekend in Oct. (And I gotta test fit them & paint them yet myself)

BTW: You don't have a YJ 4.0 cooling fan & clutch laying around do you?




Let me know when you're swappin the tub. I'm down to wrench on something other than my junk.

I almost went ahead & did it now since it's all smashed up, but there's so many additional things I want to do when I swap the tub over I decided it would just be too time consuming at this time. But I'll let you know when I'm ready. :023:

[mxg342]

Jay,

Would an XJ fan work? I have one on the parts Jeep at the house.

If not, maybe a Taurus E-fan. My fan controller is from Summit and I think it runs about $40. all you need is a toggle switch and a HD relay to run it.

[Krod]

Your welcome to grab em for a mock up real quick if you want, but the window of opportunity is pretty narrow since I wanna have them on in time for our Wellsville trip the second weekend in Oct. (And I gotta test fit them & paint them yet myself)

BTW: You don't have a YJ 4.0 cooling fan & clutch laying around do you?

I almost went ahead & did it now since it's all smashed up, but there's so many additional things I want to do when I swap the tub over I decided it would just be too time consuming at this time. But I'll let you know when I'm ready. :023:

Sounds good. I only need to borrow them for a minute to see where they end up meeting up with the grill, since this thing is such a bastard of parts. Let me know!

I don't have a clutch for you, sorry. I'll keep my eyes open. Let me know when you're swapping bodies and I'll be more than glad to help. We can plasma the old one up if you want it sectioned, or chopped for scrap.

[gonecheenin]

Decided to get these XRC corners too so I had something to mount the GenRight 6" rear flares to:

http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t48/giggityjeep/goodies009.jpg



Jay,

Would an XJ fan work? I have one on the parts Jeep at the house.

If not, maybe a Taurus E-fan. My fan controller is from Summit and I think it runs about $40. all you need is a toggle switch and a HD relay to run it.

Found a refurbished Flex-a-lite Black Magic Xtreme kit (Part# 485 http://www.flex-a-lite.com/auto/485-99485.pdf ) on ebay for $209.

Since It was looking like I was gonna have to buy the mechanical stuff if I went that route for approx. $100, I figured that wasn't too bad of money for the upgrade.


Sounds good. I only need to borrow them for a minute to see where they end up meeting up with the grill, since this thing is such a bastard of parts. Let me know!


No problem brother, they showed up today so just let me know when you wanna swing by the new house (outside of Vandergrift) to grab them for a quick fitment.

FYI: I hope to be putting them on very soon, so hurry if your gonna borrow them.

[tjblair]

Nice, you will like being able to lean against trees and not hear crunching noises.

[Krod]

Soon looks like it might be later for me J, thanks anyway. Could you take a measurement for me? I need the distance from where they meet the tub, to the holes for the grill bolts. I think if you stood them on end with the tub side on the ground, and just gave me the height to the center line of the holes I could figure out what I need from that.

[Ragnorox]

You suck jay

[dan58]

So, why? Why add all that cost and unnecessary weight to the front of a rig that isn't street legal? There's no need for fenders. Put a grill hoop on it, and all of those problems go away. All that money on purdy fenders, and no cage?

[Ragnorox]

Yeah Jay, you should give me them Purdy Fenders!

[YJBIZ]

you will love them. I thought my tires would stick out further with the full width axels, I am running the posion spider 6 inch flairs.

http://i61.photobucket.com/albums/h61/Slant022/jjep1.jpg

http://i61.photobucket.com/albums/h61/Slant022/jeep2-3.jpg

http://i61.photobucket.com/albums/h61/Slant022/jeep3-4.jpg

[gonecheenin]

Soon looks like it might be later for me J, thanks anyway. Could you take a measurement for me? I need the distance from where they meet the tub, to the holes for the grill bolts. I think if you stood them on end with the tub side on the ground, and just gave me the height to the center line of the holes I could figure out what I need from that.

Sure, I'll text it to you - but they are supposed to fit in the OEM locations so I'm not sure why you need measurments from these?


You suck jay

Lol


So, why? Why add all that cost and unnecessary weight to the front of a rig that isn't street legal? There's no need for fenders. Put a grill hoop on it, and all of those problems go away. All that money on purdy fenders, and no cage?

Because I like them, I want some more front clip structural integrity, I want some hood protection, I want less mud & dirt inside my Jeep, I want it to look as much like a Jeep as possible for any mild road running I do end up involved in, and in the future I have considered going to a streetable PSC full hydro kit once the tub is replaced and the tires are covered so I can do some mild street running "legally"

The grill hoop & stinger assembly is here too, shopping for that is actually what started all this.




The cage & seats are next on the list, (just adding on to the stock sport cage & tieing it into the frame - thinking GenRight A pillar stanchions for that too http://www.genright.com/ProductInfo.aspx?productid=GRC4400 so I can still get to the parking brake I just fixed AND hear my front speakers.


but none of that will happen till the new tub is on it - the only reason I'm doing all this is cause I gotta rip it all apart anyway and it won't be a big deal to swap any of it to the new tub (I'm just doing the rear to match the front)


you will love them. I thought my tires would stick out further with the full width axels, I am running the posion spider 6 inch flairs.

http://i61.photobucket.com/albums/h61/Slant022/jjep1.jpg

http://i61.photobucket.com/albums/h61/Slant022/jeep2-3.jpg

http://i61.photobucket.com/albums/h61/Slant022/jeep3-4.jpg


Sweet - Yeah I had my skinny tires (Q78's that dan58 hooked me up with) on the fullsize rear completely covered by 6" rubber flares with no problem.

They don't stick out real bad at all, even without flares
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v83/BlackListWheelers/Gonecheenin/92%20YJ%20May07/Grooving%20Swampers/picture0001.jpg

[Krod]

Sure, I'll text it to you - but they are supposed to fit in the OEM locations so I'm not sure why you need measurments from these?


Lol




...And what OEM part is there on my pile other than some frame?? LOL


:flipoff2:

[gonecheenin]

...And what OEM part is there on my pile other than some frame?? LOL


:flipoff2:


Allright, allright - you don't have to get all snippy. :flipoff2::042:

[gonecheenin]

Tinkered with it a bit this weekend;

Got the new hood on, bent the fan away from the damper pulley, & looped the tranny lines so I could test the tranny to make sure it still works after being run low on fluid (line popped off the rad cooler from the hit)

Threw a gallon of ATF in and fired it up - the trans seems to be holding up to some heavy brake torquing without any issue, so now I just gotta get it off the trailer & into the garage for the rest of the work.

[tjblair]

Good news!

[gonecheenin]

She's in the garage & all but the fan setup is here - time to get wrenching, gotta have her ready for the second weekend in Oct. :077:

[gonecheenin]

Mocking up the new bling;

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v83/BlackListWheelers/Gonecheenin/92%20YJ%20May07/Armor/IMG950157.jpg

[tjblair]

Purdy!

[ridgerunner97]

WOW! Lookin mean Jay!

[Deadman 94 xj]

Looks good. Not waisting any time are ya ;) lol

[gonecheenin]

Thanks! I can't keep staring at it & Katey's afraid it's gonna need wiped down if I'm left in the garge alone with it for too long!


Not waisting any time are ya ;) lol

No time available to be wasting, gotta have it ready to wheel by thursday of next week for our Wellsville trip 8,9,10.

[Ragnorox]

lets some progress pix Jay!

[gonecheenin]

lets some progress pix Jay!

Haven't got any further on the big YJ yet - was doing other stuff like getting the truck ready for camping & putting a 10" sub in my street YJ. :080:

Everything is here now though, hoping to make some healthy progress tomorrow.

[gonecheenin]

Finished the mocking up of the front fenders for fitment & got the front clip replaced

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v83/BlackListWheelers/Gonecheenin/92%20YJ%20May07/Armor/1003101603.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v83/BlackListWheelers/Gonecheenin/92%20YJ%20May07/Armor/1003102007.jpg

[Ragnorox]

looks good Jay

[gonecheenin]

Got the front wrapped up in time for the Wellsville run;

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v83/BlackListWheelers/Gonecheenin/92%20YJ%20May07/Armor/1008101824.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v83/BlackListWheelers/Gonecheenin/92%20YJ%20May07/Armor/1009101331.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v83/BlackListWheelers/Gonecheenin/92%20YJ%20May07/Armor/1009101856.jpg

[gonecheenin]

So I had destroyed the low mounted (was supposed to be a temporary thing, but you know how that goes! :083:) TSC steering ram's rod chrome bad enough dragging it over the rocks that the system wouldn't hold fluid for even a half a day's wheelin anymore. PLUS the steering knuckles I got off of DMG a couple years back when I started this project had bad balljoints in them even then.

On top of that I wanted to get the front end aligned for pavement stability when road jumping (I seriously plan to try and "legally" drive this on the road again someday on my little tires once the tub swap is done) AND not only were the bad balljoints preventing that, the tierod mounted steering ram wasn't helping matters.



So I decided to do some upgrades (No pics yet);

I stripped the F250 housing down to the inner C's to install my new MOOG Problem Solver balljoints, Deadenbear GM steering knuckles, and PSC 2x8 single ended ram which will be mounted high on the axle & controlling the steering through a RH blank high steer arm. (So I can choose the perfect connection point)

PLUS - since I found during my tear down that the junk Yukon cut blank 4340 inners had started twisting the splines at the diff, I topped the rebuild off with two new high quality Nitro 4340 tuned alloy inner shafts from ECGS. I'm gonna use the Yukon outers & Super Joints for now since the money isn't there for a whole Nitro setup, but at least this way I'll feel confident that the Ox Locker will be spared any damage from inner axle spline breakage!


That'll be it for now, but eventually I plan to also buy an 1.5" od x .375" wall Off Road Design's stupid heavy duty tie rod with regular tapered tierod ends http://www.offroaddesign.com/catalog/HDsteeringlinkage.htm since I have full intention of leaving my tierod out front and below the springs. Before everyone argues with me about that, the reason I'm doing it is to help spread the load between the upper & lower ball joints more evenly (going high steer would severly overload the upper balljoints on a D44 IMHO) AND it will also continue to help protect my Ox locker shifting cable from frontal impact.

[gonecheenin]

Oh - and I noticed I never posted about my rear springs since back when I first put the rig together.


While the first setup was definitely strong and kept my axle wrap in check - I ended up hating how that rear leaf pack assembly rode and flexed running those Ram charger .440" thick mains.

So I took those off and using the 48" .290" thick mains and military wraps from a pair of BDS 3.5" lift Wrangler springs (Thanks Krod!), I finished the assemblys off with entire .250" steel 5 leaf flat and well worn stock Wrangler packs (I cut the main eyes off the main leaf and those became my 3rd ply for a total of 7 per side). This new setup rides pretty nicely even if your getting rowdy with it AND (most importantly) works VERY well opposite the front leaf packs for a well balanced articulation symphony! :nod:

Of course this softer design would not be able to control my axle wrap - so I fabbed up a new 38" anti-wrap bar that connects at the tail end of the factory crossmember/skid assembly. That length gives me a pretty decent anti-squat percentage which REALLY cut down on my axle hop on steep climbs to the point where it's almost perfect!

[Krod]

Glad to hear parts are still living on!!! Next summer I'm in for some red YJ mayhem x2 :077:

[gonecheenin]

Glad to hear parts are still living on!!! Next summer I'm in for some red YJ mayhem x2 :077:


Now your talking!!! If all goes right in my world, I may even have the solid tub on, suspension seats & harness's installed, and full Cage fabbed up by then!!!

[gonecheenin]

Just encase someone missed Cheenin's encounter with house rock!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X_PFENSbe38


Eh - just a little ding, it'll buff out!


Can't win them all, next time I won't assume it's gonna kick driver when there's a massive rock in front of me!!!!!!

[gonecheenin]

I am completely happy with my YJ 4.0's overall power and torque in most situations, But I've been thinking long and hard on how to get some more power to the 38's on the big/long/loose hill climb's that I like to hit at high RPM;


I don't want anything to do with a heavy, hot running, loud, overpowered V-8 breaking my half ton axle parts (I simply didn't build my rig for that kinda lowend brutal power).

I seriously considered doing a stroker 4.6, but there are so many expensive and meticulous steps to doing one right AND having it hold together - then you still end up with an engine that makes too much low end torque for my rig's setup AND by nature of a longer stroke you lose some max RPM capability.

I considered Nitrous, but don't want to go through filling bottles, staging the system before every big climb, and carrying that much sensitive hardware on an offroad rig.

Plus all the above options are fairly expensive to do the way I would do them (What I would call correctly).



Sooooooooo; I think I've decided to turbocharge it.

My thinking is this setup will not affect my current power output in anyway until I get over 2500-3000 RPM, so I won't even know it's there unless I've got my foot buried in it when I actually need max power. Plus if I do end up blowing it up, it'll still be just a stock, easy to find, cheap 4.0 instead of something with custom internals or special machine work. And if the turbo goes I can always run without it till it can be fixed or replaced.

On top of all that, I think I can fairly easily build one from junkyard OEM components for the most part since I'm only looking for 8-9 psi to make another 70-80 horse in the upper RPM range.


Here's what I have in mind;

Thread
http://www.homemadeturbo.com/showthread.php?t=98357


Dyno run

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JJoLkRbZSDI&feature=related


A 505 Performance kit is available if you don't wanna build your own

http://www.505performance.com/images/01turbo.gif

[ridgerunner97]

There are several people playing with these being turbocharged. Check this fella out off of NAXJA, he is making manifolds for just this application. I think we were discussing this at the event this summer Jay did you figure out any numbers yet as to what your going to scrounge a turbo off of to use?

This is a thread on it,

http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=1031285

[RalphDogg]

would it be cheaper to get a 350?

[ridgerunner97]

^ You and everyone else, geez I thought being a zuki guy you'd be all about the "different" thing.... LOL

[YZEATER]

would it be cheaper to get a 350?

too much power for 1/2 tons.

[joe_and_jeep]

would it be cheaper to get a 350?

Noooooooooooooo......... Dont mention the 350 to Jay. He is 100% against them. I been wanting to turbo my 4.0 for awhile simply because I already have a good setup. 4.0/AW4/D300. If I ever buy a motorless rig I'll do a 350 but the 4.0 is too good of a motor to pull for no reason.

[RalphDogg]

i think a turbo engine is high maintenance and not made for a dependable gas trail rig. in my opinion (and just my opinion) you really shouldn't run 87 gas, you will want to add an intercooler, you will always want more boost, a good air cleaner setup so you dont suck in dirt or water, you will add gauges and a new head gasket and, you dont want a used turbo. usually the only thing that people want is the turbo sound.

[dan58]

The 4.slow is a super heavy motor. 5.3 will run circles around it and be dead reliable...and be lighter. Lol

[joe_and_jeep]

i think a turbo engine is high maintenance and not made for a dependable gas trail rig. in my opinion (and just my opinion) you really shouldn't run 87 gas, you will want to add an intercooler, you will always want more boost, a good air cleaner setup so you dont suck in dirt or water, you will add gauges and a new head gasket and, you dont want a used turbo. usually the only thing that people want is the turbo sound.

Done properly a turbo setup will be just fine. 93 octane and a head gasket are a given. There is a few guys running around Wellsville with turbos. A couple rail buggies, a few Jeeps, a few random others.

[joe_and_jeep]

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tjLLzH7BQ2w&feature=youtube_gdata_player


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gdZ4bx743k0&feature=related



http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ez6AQKcyeOM&feature=related

The red buggy is a 2.5L Subaru/Powerglide. The "Wall" he climbs, is also known as "CrazyHorse" and is darn'd near vertical. The Cherokee is a 4.0 with a junkyard Cummins turbo. He camps up at The VillageOHV/Forbidden Zone. I'll have to see what he uses for fuel management.

They'll help you put the power down, and a little planning they'll be as reliable as you need them to be.

[ridgerunner97]

^ Epic WIN! Junkyard excellence.

[Krod]

Because I have to....

L67 + Aw4 :nod:



OR stock L36 NA and go turbo or SC top swap when you decide you want more...
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v640/Dannomite03/Misc/L36graph.jpg



I do agree with the other options, a junkyard turbo setup can be made reliable and fun, and there is always the 5.3 as Dan pointed out....

[YZEATER]

that 3rd vid is awesome.

[atvboo]

Joe. With that red buggy I would of thought it would have a v8 the way that thing climbs I love that rig. I have watch all his vids he is pretty good hillclimber.

[red6rubicon]

my soob dont sound like that?

[gonecheenin]

The turbo the Jeep in the youtube video is running is from a Mitsubishi Eclipse, and since I have a buddy with a couple of those, that's most likely what I'm gonna try first. I just hope the Eclipse turbo's aren't too small which would allow them to spool up too fast - I'm actually looking for this to lag till that 2500-3000 rpm range so it doesn't affect my current low end performance.




Damn Joe - those are some SICK vids!!!!!!! Especially the red buggy ones - I doubt the YJ will be doing any of that - turbo or no turbo!!! LOL
I did that Gatekeeper one day and made it look easy, the next day I tried it and it was like wheeling on grease!!!!!!!! Never did get up it the second time, so I climbed the hill to the right and went around it - LOL.




As for the rest of you, I thought I pointed out the other options & why I discarded them? (And yes Dan, I know the LS's are a hell of a powerplant, but it would still cost me way more money than the turbo dealio (especially if I ever needed to replace it), give me more power than I want in the bottom end, AND the extra little bit of weight over the nose doesn't bother me a bit for what I do with my rig)

Now if I built the buggy on Rockwells I'd like to do someday I'd go V-8 (and stay automatic with a teeth chipping shift kit!! >:) ), but even then I'd want something destroked and peaky with an aggressive cam and a 8000-ish peak horsepower rpm range!!!!! The toyota guys have proved many times over you don't need a powerfull engine to crawl sick shit as long as your geared right - therefore the only time that power is needed is when your foots in it on the hills or in the mud IMHO.




Ralph - I'm not towing a trailer with the thing or driving it to work. Heck - I MIGHT be in a boosted state 10% of most trail rides!

And no a 350 wouldn't be cheaper since I already have everything under the hood but the turbo & associated parts - especially since a stock 350 would barely make more power than my 4.0 everywhere but in the low end where I don't want it to begin with - so if I went that route I'd want a small block that was done up a bit or would tweak it for more power myself, therefore adding even more cash to the price of the swap - AND then it make it even heavier unless I went aluminum heads which would cost even more.

As for the clean air filter - not only should you have one anyway, a turbo will actually deal with a dirty filter better than a gasser since it's "FORCED" induction. And if you've let it get so dirty it sucks itself shut or inside out - maybe you need to not neglect your engine so much as go with a different style.

Reliability I'm not worried about one little bit since as I said the parts that might fail will be fairly cheap AND I've seen turbo's on diesels last through unbelievable abuse with rare failures (AND don't tell me diesels are different, because that only applys when your talking fuel management as far as burning down the engine, it don't have duck to do with reliability)


And if I'm wrong what's the worst that'll happen - I'll be out a junkyard turbo, a couple pipes, a Grand National MAP sensor, and a few hours wrench time (plus having to ask Dan where to find a LS motor!!! LOL) - Ehh, ain't like it'd be the first time I ever changed my mind!!!!!

[gonecheenin]

Got the steering all back together and the Jeep wheelable again (Forgot to get pics)


I was wrong, the knuckles were actually Crane High Clearance parts, but they still worked out great. I even found Caterpillar wheel bearings for the front end once I crossed the Timken numbers over through work! :029:

The new ram setup didn't work out as well as I'd hoped, the rod wouldn't reach the high steer arm without putting the body of the ram between the leaf spring and the frame (definite drawback to not running coils), and though it looked like it would have cleared, it would've been tight and just not have worked out well at all. So I ended up making new higher ram mount brackets and left it attached directly to the tie rod for now.

The ram AND the tierod are much better protected now and aside from a bit of tierod roll steers quite well. Eventually I plan to go to hydro assist when I swap everything over to a new frame and Krod's old Jeep tub to put it back on the street, so the ram mounted to the tierod should be fine in the long run I'd imagine.

Oh, and since the tierod is now higher than the axle tube, I also built a stupid little 1/4" thick, 2x2 angle OX shifter cable protector for when I'm in the rocks. I'm not thrilled with it looks wise, but it functions for now and I'll improve on it later.

[dan58]

It's okay, Jay. You're stubborn. You'll come around in time, just like the "rear ARB steers better than front ARB" debate. hehe

I'll give you a ride in the pile when I see ya next. You might like what one of those LS motors can do when it's not so stock. ;)

[joe_and_jeep]

Reliability I'm not worried about one little bit since as I said the parts that might fail will be fairly cheap AND I've seen turbo's on diesels last through unbelievable abuse with rare failures (AND don't tell me diesels are different, because that only applys when your talking fuel management as far as burning down the engine, it don't have duck to do with reliability)


And if I'm wrong what's the worst that'll happen - I'll be out a junkyard turbo, a couple pipes, a Grand National MAP sensor, and a few hours wrench time (plus having to ask Dan where to find a LS motor!!! LOL) - Ehh, ain't like it'd be the first time I ever changed my mind!!!!!

There is more to fuel management than just a map, what are your plans? And I agree about the reliability. You can run a motor with a locked up turbo, or a bearing failure, cracked manifold. Oil line would be my only concern. Just bring a way to repair an oil line. I don't forse anything going wrong that would prevent you from limping off the trail. And 10% of the trailride under boost? I've seen you wheel, I can only imagine what it would be like if you had boost at your disposal.

[gonecheenin]

It's okay, Jay. You're stubborn.

Now THERE's the proverbial "Pot calling the kettle black!!!!" :overkill:

:042:






just like the "rear ARB steers better than front ARB" debate. hehe

I admit it, that worked a heck of alot better than I thought it would - though I still wouldn't want that setup in my own rig for what I do.



I'll give you a ride in the pile when I see ya next. You might like what one of those LS motors can do when it's not so stock. ;)

If that thing ends up making the kinda power your saying it will, that's an offer I'd have to take you up on. :023:

[gonecheenin]

There is more to fuel management than just a map, what are your plans?

Well - it's a boost sensitive MAP upgrade for a Grand National, so I'm thinking that in concert with a MAP adjuster to adjust the fuel mixture will do alot. After that I'll be playing with plug readings and if needed I'm not afraid to pick up an actual FMU like 505 performance uses.


And 10% of the trailride under boost? I've seen you wheel, I can only imagine what it would be like if you had boost at your disposal.

Who me? I have no idea what your talking about.

[joe_and_jeep]

Well - it's a boost sensitive MAP upgrade for a Grand National, so I'm thinking that in concert with a MAP adjuster to adjust the fuel mixture will do alot. After that I'll be playing with plug readings and if needed I'm not afraid to pick up an actual FMU like 505 performance uses.



Map Adjuster? You mean like one of those doo hickies that restricts your return line to bump up your fuel pressure? The 4.0 injectors need upgraded even without boost. I've heard the 5.0 injectors make a huge difference even on a stock motor.

I've been wanting to do a turbo for a long time, I was going to upgrade injectors, MAP that reads boost and that doo hickamajigger that raises fuel pressure. I was just going to pick up an air/fuel guage that the ricer kids use.

[gonecheenin]

Map Adjuster? You mean like one of those doo hickies that restricts your return line to bump up your fuel pressure? The 4.0 injectors need upgraded even without boost. I've heard the 5.0 injectors make a huge difference even on a stock motor.


Nah - the electronic one that fools the computer into richening the fuel mixture.

I thought the same about the injectors, but according to the guys that have done the low boost turbo setup's on the stock 4.0's, the factory injectors will do fine. That said, the computer can always de-fuel ones that are a little bit too big so upgrading certianly wouldn't hurt.

[psychobilly]

I cant belive what I just seen, a buggy climbing the wall out of the creek bed in wellsville! That hill is insane!

[joe_and_jeep]

I cant belive what I just seen, a buggy climbing the wall out of the creek bed in wellsville! That hill is insane!

Go out more often, I've seen a few go up and come down... Backwards or rolling...

[gonecheenin]

I cant belive what I just seen, a buggy climbing the wall out of the creek bed in wellsville! That hill is insane!


Freaking Dirt bikes don't make it!!


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zm0sOSjSnYw&NR=1

[dan58]

If that thing ends up making the kinda power your saying it will, that's an offer I'd have to take you up on. :023:

It ended up being a little more than anticipated when the compression went over 11:1. :). :103: 500+ ponies and 39" sticky tires somehow just seem a little like overkill.

[red6rubicon]

It ended up being a little more than anticipated when the compression went over 11:1. :). :103: 500+ ponies and 39" sticky tires somehow just seem a little like overkill.

I bet it feels like it after you were so used to that 80hp propane motor!

[highlandercj-7]

You mean Curt, Bill:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rv14uFzbSHY

[cityslicker]

Those hill climb videos are no joke!

[gonecheenin]

Whelp - after smashing 2 exhaust pipes (one factory YJ headpipe & one header wrapped TJ style replacement headpipe), one oil pan, one trans pan, and getting hung up on the leading edge of my factory crossmember skid multiple times - I decided it's time to build a tranny/oil pan/exhaust headpipe skid plate.

I started out with the thought of basically copying Skid Rows JP-1001 design
http://www.skidplates.com/Images/Products/Jeep/YJ-Wrangler/JP-1000_Install3_Wi-FromSide.jpg

I got a 1/4 pc of plate & cut it at 20" wide by 29" long with a 15 deg-ish angle cut just in front of the pass side spring main eye bolt (to clear my hydraulic steering lines) and jacked it up into place.


I noticed a few things immediately;

1) My YJ has a 1" motor mount lift AND no longer has the exhaust running under the tranny - therefore there would be a TON of room left over if I mounted the skid below the pass side spring hanger bolt like Skid Row does (plus it gives away ALOT of ground clearance for no good reason)
2) The way Skid Rows design attachs to the front edge of the factory skid not only looks a little weak, it also hangs down lower than the factory skid does AND has bolt heads that protrude below the skid to help rocks slow down forward progress
3) My front axle is pushed forward 5"s from stock so almost ALL my oil pan is exposed underneath - if I simply put a 2" vertical lip at the front of the skid right under the exhaust pipe, a rock could still find its way between that lip and the axle to damage the front part of said pan




Sooooo;
-I decided instead to mount the skid 2 inchs above that pass main eye hanger - this will give me additional ground clearance while leaving about an inch between the oil pan sump and the skid (the drain plug area will have a hole cut in it for changing the oil without dropping the skid)

-I decided to use a 1/2" thick flat bar welded to the rear of the skid & weld to it 4) 1/2" grade 8 bolts with the heads cutoff vetically to bolt the front skid to the front lip of the factory skid and 3) 1/2" grade 5 bolts with the heads cutoff laying down horizontally to act as a "Tongue & groove" type of locator at the factory skid lip

-I decided to finish of the front with a tapered 10.5" pc of 3/16" plate at a 30 deg angle up towards the front of the oil pan - this will leave me with 2"s between it and the pan, will only leave about 3-4"s of pan vulnerable still, and will even still help protect those exposed inchs once I weld the angle iron underneath the front edge in a "V" to not only stiffen it up, but also keep any rocks from sliding easily off the front lip & into that small unprotected area shoudl I be backing up in a nasty spot.


I'm taking pics while I do it, I'll post them later on.

[tjblair]

Looks good man!