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Deadman 94 xj
08-05-2008, 07:46 PM
I started out with a 94 with 6.5" lift and 33's. Everything else as far as drive line was bone stock. I beat on it pretty good and it held up for the most part.
http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t250/tnetz777/DSC00703.jpg

It ended up going to the bone yard because of rust:

http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t250/tnetz777/054.jpg

The rockers were shot on both sides as well as the front floor boards.

http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t250/tnetz777/052.jpg

This is where I decided that I wasn't going to mess with it. I could push the wheel well out of the vehical 6". It had many other issues as well and I decided to look for something else.



http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t250/tnetz777/053.jpg

The one I found was a 96 2 door with 105 on the clock. It was in great shape with zero rust.

http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t250/tnetz777/041.jpg

BigDukeSix
08-05-2008, 07:51 PM
Looks great Tom. Keep us updated.

Deadman 94 xj
08-05-2008, 07:57 PM
http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t250/tnetz777/049.jpg

I did a few little things like the ricer gauge swap and mounted the CB.



http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t250/tnetz777/jeepprogress001.jpg

http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t250/tnetz777/jeepprogress004.jpg

Then I switched some of the parts over from 94 to the 96. Really all I used was the tires and front coils. Everything else was trash.

I got the long arms in the mail and off to work I went.
http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t250/tnetz777/Longarms001.jpg


http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t250/tnetz777/jeepprogress011.jpg

http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t250/tnetz777/jeepprogress012.jpg

It ended up being a little taller than I wanted but I used the parts I had available. After wheeling it a bit I think it turned out ok.

Deadman 94 xj
08-05-2008, 08:09 PM
More to come. I hate using damn photobucket because the pics don't resize when I do it lol.

MF Steve!
08-05-2008, 08:13 PM
Looks great! I swear I'll get you welded up one day this week. I've been experiencing the horrors of migraines off and on since Thursday.

john00TJ
08-05-2008, 08:46 PM
looks good man ,lets see some action shots now

BigDukeSix
08-05-2008, 08:49 PM
I'm liking those XJ's more and more.

92YJCBG
08-05-2008, 10:07 PM
I'm liking those XJ's more and more.

x2 i will own a lifted XJ one day

Deadman 94 xj
08-05-2008, 11:48 PM
Looks great! I swear I'll get you welded up one day this week. I've been experiencing the horrors of migraines off and on since Thursday.
No problem, I know how it is.

Next on the list were the axles. John you might recognize this one:
http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t250/tnetz777/jeepprogress010.jpg

Believe it or not I had zero bump steer or DW when I had to drive around with it like this.

http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t250/tnetz777/jeepprogress008.jpg

8.8. This one I made a special trip to ohio to pick up from MrShoeboy from another forum.

They were both geared 4.88 by Jay Stull and the rear has a detroit.

http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t250/tnetz777/DSC00997.jpg

Deadman 94 xj
08-05-2008, 11:54 PM
Obviously I had to do something to fix the weak steering and angles so I went with JCR OTK since Steve seems to be taking to long for his setups that he promised LOL.

http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t250/tnetz777/jeep010.jpg

Unfortunately I seem to be getting a bit of bump steer with this setup. I did the alignment myself so I might just have to redo it or have it done. I haven't messed with it yet.
Installing the setup was easier that I thought. I just used the reamer (snap-on) and put it in a drill. No way I was going to ream the pitman arm by hand like some have suggested. The only problem I had was that I used red lock tight on the TRE bolts. Not sure what the hell I was thinking on that one lol.

92YJCBG
08-05-2008, 11:55 PM
wow a 4.0 with 4:88 must be insane!!

Great build and keep us posted!

Deadman 94 xj
08-05-2008, 11:56 PM
wow a 4.0 with 4:88 must me insane!!

Great build and keep us posted!


Thanks, it's nice but it's no race car lol

Deadman 94 xj
08-06-2008, 12:02 AM
Next is the only downfall in my opinion. After getting pulled over for the flares I new I had to do something. I had the Bushwackers from the old heep so after some hesitation I went ahead and put them on. I'm still not sure about the color I chose and I know they'll chip but I can touch up if it bothers me.

I didn't want to chop up the fenders since I already had enough clearence so I choped up the flares lol. What I did was cut out the inner portion on the flare and mount them over top of the factory flares. This way they will flex when I put them up against something and I could retain the front inner wheel well plastic stuff as well as the little mud flaps.

http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t250/tnetz777/jeeprear.jpg

Deadman 94 xj
08-06-2008, 12:04 AM
Next and most recent was the goodies. AJ's super rails, Superwinch EPi9000 and the front bumper.

http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t250/tnetz777/jeep013.jpg

http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t250/tnetz777/jeep019.jpg


http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t250/tnetz777/jeep009.jpg

http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t250/tnetz777/jeep003.jpg

It seems that Superwinch has upgrated to a lifetime warranty.

http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t250/tnetz777/jeep002.jpg

I haven't had a chance to test it out yet.

92YJCBG
08-06-2008, 12:05 AM
id say Paint the flares and bumpers semi-flat black with krylon rattle can.

Deadman 94 xj
08-06-2008, 12:10 AM
id say Paint the flares and bumpers semi-flat black with krylon rattle can.


Yeah it was kind of an experiment to see how it would all look. Now I think I should have left it all black. Still up in the air on it to be honest.

Deadman 94 xj
08-06-2008, 12:15 AM
Next I had to do something about the rear shaft. It was running at 22.5* which for a cv shaft is about the max. Normal spring wrap was causing it to bind up and make a grinding noise during acceleration.

So I called up CarolinaDriveline and had them fab up a 32* 1350 model..whoohooo!

http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t250/tnetz777/jeep001.jpg

http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t250/tnetz777/jeep015.jpg

http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t250/tnetz777/jeep014.jpg

Deadman 94 xj
08-06-2008, 12:22 AM
http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t250/tnetz777/jeep018.jpg

Deadman 94 xj
08-06-2008, 12:28 AM
Next I want to upgrade to a more agressive tire. I think 35's will work out ok.

This was my first build on my own so feel free to leave honest feedback.
I didn't upgrade shafts yet because funds wouldn't alow it. I guess I'll wait untill I break a stocker lol.

I would like to go to a 4:1 t-case but what it has now seems to do ok. I think it has a 40:1 ratio right now or something like that. Plus that damn drive shaft cost too much to redo lol.

Thanks for the compliments.

Deadman 94 xj
08-06-2008, 12:54 AM
Oh, I almost forgot, I got my ricer valve cover today. It is supposed to help with oil leaks, along with some "Right Stuff" sealent. I hope it's not the rear main seal lol.

http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t250/tnetz777/jeep020.jpg

I also upgraded the steering gear box since I fubar'd mine trying to get the pitman arm off. I found this used for about the same price as a stock replacement.

http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t250/tnetz777/Picture067.jpg

P/N (SG62M) Makes turning the tires a little easier.

andrew2516
08-06-2008, 01:29 AM
Looks cool...how much did you pay for the winch cover?

I've been looking around but I'm not sure if I'm willing to pay $60 for a cover.

BigDukeSix
08-06-2008, 08:07 AM
Tom those are great pics. It dont look like a first build. Nice work. Hope to see it in action, in person someday.

92YJCBG
08-06-2008, 09:19 AM
wow, that looks great man.

I like the whole front set up with the bumper,winch and daylighters

jeepxj3
08-06-2008, 09:21 AM
More to come. I hate using damn photobucket because the pics don't resize when I do it lol.

http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b134/forum_/temp/michika.jpg

Hope this helps!

Heep looks sick!!! Im glad its almost done! You coming up to Charapp this weekend?

XJchris98
08-06-2008, 09:54 AM
X2 Jeep looks good! With 4.88s you could easily get away with some 35 or 36"s under there. The 8.8 will take it and as long as the 30 isnt locked you shouldnt have to many problems, just cant be stupid with it. How do you like the claytons arms?


Did you get the rear shaft lengthened any when you got it made? With my 8.8 im still debating about getting the shaft lengthened. I like the idea that I can swap the front/rear shafts if needed, but im also not wanting to gernade the shaft because its too short. So far my pinion angle is really good so the angle isnt that much of an issue.

anodyne33
08-06-2008, 10:02 AM
No shit... I almost snapped a pic of this last night to ask here who's it was. I work in Law and Finance and gave it a good once-over on my way out last night around 6:00. Looks damn good. Is that front bumper from Logans?
shane

doublejz
08-06-2008, 02:12 PM
http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t250/tnetz777/jeep014.jpg

Is that suppose to be like a harmonic balancer or is that just a beefy ass yoke?

mxg342
08-06-2008, 02:28 PM
The 8.8 uses a flange instead of a regular looking dana yoke.

doublejz
08-06-2008, 02:35 PM
gotchya

Deadman 94 xj
08-06-2008, 06:46 PM
Tom those are great pics. It dont look like a first build. Nice work. Hope to see it in action, in person someday.

Thanks man, I want to get it out on the trails ASAP


X2 Jeep looks good! With 4.88s you could easily get away with some 35 or 36"s under there. The 8.8 will take it and as long as the 30 isnt locked you shouldnt have to many problems, just cant be stupid with it. How do you like the claytons arms?


Did you get the rear shaft lengthened any when you got it made? With my 8.8 im still debating about getting the shaft lengthened. I like the idea that I can swap the front/rear shafts if needed, but im also not wanting to gernade the shaft because its too short. So far my pinion angle is really good so the angle isnt that much of an issue.

The shaft I had made by www.Carolinadriveline.com (http://www.Carolinadriveline.com)
They have pretty good prices. The rear shaft was 33" from center cap to center cap. The front shaft still needs done. It's a little too short.

The Clayton arms are great from what I've been able to do with them. I still need to get the Xmember welded up. Right now it's just bolted up and I can't really beat on it untill it gets done.


No shit... I almost snapped a pic of this last night to ask here who's it was. I work in Law and Finance and gave it a good once-over on my way out last night around 6:00. Looks damn good. Is that front bumper from Logans?
shane

Haha, I'm right across the street at Oxford. Thanks for the compliments.

Deadman 94 xj
08-06-2008, 06:49 PM
Heep looks sick!!! Im glad its almost done! You coming up to Charapp this weekend?

No, I'm going to a truck show in Carlisle.
http://www.carsatcarlisle.com/ce/events/truck-nationals/

I've never been to one but it looks like a good time.

Deadman 94 xj
08-06-2008, 06:51 PM
Looks cool...how much did you pay for the winch cover?

I've been looking around but I'm not sure if I'm willing to pay $60 for a cover.

60 bucks, holy hell. I only paid 50 for mine haha. No, I had the cash at the time so I ordered it from Summit. Not sure if it's worth it or not but it'll keep the damn mud off.

Deadman 94 xj
08-07-2008, 04:52 AM
Is that front bumper from Logans?
shane

Sorry I missed your question the first time around. Yes it's a Logans. I picked it up from their shop in verona. It's one of the best mods yet in my oinion. Fitment was perfect and it seems beefy enough. It has 18 mounting points (if I remember correctly). It sticks out there a good bit but I don't think it's as bad as some winch bumpers I've seen. I drilled the holes for the lights fwiw.

Deadman 94 xj
08-10-2008, 10:28 PM
Some poser pics:
http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t250/tnetz777/Carlisle080.jpg

http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t250/tnetz777/Carlisle081.jpg

http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t250/tnetz777/Carlisle085.jpg

http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t250/tnetz777/Carlisle086.jpg

Deadman 94 xj
08-10-2008, 10:29 PM
http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t250/tnetz777/Carlisle039.jpg

Deadman 94 xj
08-10-2008, 10:33 PM
http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t250/tnetz777/Carlisle040.jpg



http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t250/tnetz777/Carlisle041.jpg

http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t250/tnetz777/Carlisle042.jpg

http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t250/tnetz777/Carlisle043.jpg

http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t250/tnetz777/Carlisle045.jpg

Deadman 94 xj
08-10-2008, 10:37 PM
http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t250/tnetz777/Carlisle038-1.jpg

http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t250/tnetz777/Carlisle033.jpg

http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t250/tnetz777/Carlisle034.jpg


http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t250/tnetz777/Carlisle035.jpg

Deadman 94 xj
08-10-2008, 10:50 PM
Some action from the big guys:

http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t250/tnetz777/Carlisle022.jpg

http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t250/tnetz777/Carlisle050.jpg

http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t250/tnetz777/Carlisle051.jpg

http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t250/tnetz777/Carlisle053.jpg

http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t250/tnetz777/Carlisle055.jpg

http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t250/tnetz777/Carlisle056.jpg

http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t250/tnetz777/Carlisle057.jpg

http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t250/tnetz777/Carlisle058.jpg

BigDukeSix
08-10-2008, 11:01 PM
Nice pics!!! XJ looking good too...

Deadman 94 xj
08-11-2008, 03:14 AM
Thanks, I need bigger tires!!
Heres a couple pics of the course:

http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t250/tnetz777/Carlisle027.jpg

http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t250/tnetz777/Carlisle023.jpg

http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t250/tnetz777/Carlisle032.jpg

BigDukeSix
08-11-2008, 08:01 AM
I was partial to the black flares and bumpers on the other rig but the grey looks pretty good in action!

jeepxj3
08-11-2008, 01:40 PM
Where were all of those pics from?

XJchris98
08-11-2008, 01:56 PM
Looks like carlisle

Deadman 94 xj
08-11-2008, 11:20 PM
Yeah it was Carlisle. Good times. If you've never been I would recomend it, it was worth the trip.

Deadman 94 xj
02-07-2009, 01:22 AM
The rear bumper is coming....harrrrhahahrrr

cityslicker
03-09-2009, 02:19 AM
man that is a really nice rig u set up. you really know your stuff. I'm jealous I don't have your knowledge on the subject.

Deadman 94 xj
03-09-2009, 11:58 AM
man that is a really nice rig u set up. you really know your stuff. I'm jealous I don't have your knowledge on the subject.


Ha! I'm flattered but I don't have much knowledge. Just what I can pull from you guys in the interwebs.

Thanks

Since I'm here Ill say that I have a few changes comming to the "heep". I just finished the quarter panel cut and fold and I have the rear bumper all painted up. I'm also waiting on a set of frame stiffeners that will go on.

Sorry no pics yet. I broke my camera and have to pick up another one.

Oh, and the rear bushwackers are gone to be replaced with TJs. The front BWs are still in good shape.

Deadman 94 xj
03-15-2009, 11:07 PM
Some pics of the cut & fold and the bumper sub-assembly.

http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t250/tnetz777/jeeprearbumper005.jpg

http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t250/tnetz777/jeeprearbumper006.jpg

http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t250/tnetz777/jeeprearbumper008.jpg

http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t250/tnetz777/jeeprearbumper007.jpg

http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t250/tnetz777/jeeprearbumper009.jpg

Yes I painted my gas tank skid. Don't ask, I have weird color tastes. Everything was POR15ed.

More pics to come of the completed project.

Deadman 94 xj
03-15-2009, 11:17 PM
I also got the rear shocks. One of them was FUBAR so it has to go back. It had a loose piston and was leaking oil. Fun stuff.

http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t250/tnetz777/jeeprearbumper.jpg

Deadman 94 xj
03-16-2009, 12:15 AM
A few months back I noticed my roller fairlead was shot

http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t250/tnetz777/jeeprearbumper011.jpg

The rollers are still good if anyone wants them (free).

My cable was kinked in a bunch of places also so I picked up some synthetic cheap. 100' of 5/16. It should hold up and it'll be a lot easier to work with.

http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t250/tnetz777/jeeprearbumper010.jpg

Deadman 94 xj
03-24-2009, 10:12 AM
I got the bumper all done this weekend. The end caps were a pain to line up but I think they ended up pretty good. They bolt to the main section in 4 places then to the Jeep in 2. They should hold up really well when coming off of ledges and stuff. I know everyone likes pics so here's a few:

http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t250/tnetz777/PictureJEEP002.jpg

http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t250/tnetz777/PictureJEEP003.jpg

http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t250/tnetz777/PictureJEEP001.jpg

I wanted to add more clearance for when I step up in tire size. Believe it or not, the 33's would rub where they were. I just did relief cuts instead of removing anything. This way I don't fawk up the pinch seam.

http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t250/tnetz777/jeeprearbumper021.jpg

http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t250/tnetz777/jeeprearbumper023.jpg

I cut a little too far on some lines, as you can probably see. I put about fifty coats of paint down and I will be running flares for a long time so it's ok :040:

Deadman 94 xj
03-24-2009, 10:18 AM
Here's a pick of my flare hack job. They're just flares though lol. These should hold up much better than the BWs.

http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t250/tnetz777/PictureJEEP006.jpg

limegreentj
03-24-2009, 10:22 AM
damn...thats one sexy matcheen

96greenxjjeep
03-24-2009, 10:42 AM
very nice, what tires you gunna be running this year

SirFuego
03-24-2009, 11:05 AM
I like the rear bumper, Tom. I'm digging the superwinch and synthetic. My favorite thing about the synthetic conversion on my superwinch was not having a ginormous fairlead sticking off my bumper.

Deadman 94 xj
03-24-2009, 11:55 AM
Thanks!

Ben, I'm going for 35"KM2s or 36"Trxus. I'm hoping to have something by the first BDS event. With that comes upgraded shafts for the D30 though, and that's almost impossible at this point.

Jared, I can't wait to try out the synthetic. The cable I had was a mess! Did you go with 3/8 or 5/16?

Also, how did you mount your rope to the spool? It uses a set screw so I had to cut the little eye off of the rope and feed it through. It should work but I'm open to suggestions.

96greenxjjeep
03-24-2009, 03:06 PM
very nice id like to get some km2s buy when your a college student its kinda impossible haha

cityslicker
03-24-2009, 08:38 PM
Thanks!


Jared, I can't wait to try out the synthetic. The cable I had was a mess! Did you go with 3/8 or 5/16?


if you want to try that synthetic you prob shouldn't make your rig so capable.
or you could use it to pull my xj out the mud I guess...;)

looks real good man..

trailblaze
03-25-2009, 11:29 AM
nice .. whats the bracket thing on the rear axle, towards the center?? are you going to run coils and arms back there??

Deadman 94 xj
03-25-2009, 12:38 PM
nice .. whats the bracket thing on the rear axle, towards the center?? are you going to run coils and arms back there??

It's for the traction bar that I still have to put together. I need to figure out a belly skid that I'll mount the front of the bar to. That one won't be for a while.

Deadman 94 xj
04-06-2009, 12:02 AM
Some more hardcore tech for you guys... (it's really for me)

I picked up a soundbar for the jeep so that I could get rid of the shitty 6x9 boxes in the cargo area, seen in a few pics above.

It was pretty ugly so I decided to refurbish it.

http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t250/tnetz777/jeeprearbumper028.jpg

I used a black stretchy fabric and a nylon net material. I used some 3M spray adhesive for the first layer. That stuff kicks ass. I'd recommend it for your saggy headliner.


http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t250/tnetz777/jeeprearbumper029.jpg

http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t250/tnetz777/jeeprearbumper032.jpg

I think it turned out pretty good. Now I just have to hook it up and rock on. :icon_super:

96greenxjjeep
04-06-2009, 12:50 PM
very nice

Deadman 94 xj
04-13-2009, 10:35 PM
My shocks are shot! All four. I knew they were bad but I didn't think they were all bad.

http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t250/tnetz777/jeeprearbumper037.jpg

I got the rear Edelbrock back from being rebuilt. I picked these up from their recent 70% off sale. Time will tell how long they hold up. I think the remotes were more trouble than they're worth, I don't do high speed stuff.
I wanted to see what these shocks were all about. They have a different valving system than a standard offroad shock. They're supposed to be soft on bumps and firm on the smooth stuff/street and reduce body roll. Not the ideal setup for desert racing but I think it would be more than ideal for the rocks and trails around here.

http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t250/tnetz777/jeeprearbumper033.jpg

http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t250/tnetz777/jeeprearbumper038.jpg

I went with Bilstein 5125s for the front. They're the same shock as the 5150 but without the reservoir. 255/70 valving.

http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t250/tnetz777/jeeprearbumper035.jpg

Obviously the ride is much better than before but I can't say it met my expectations. I could have gone with a stiffer valving up front but 7100s are way out of my price range at this point. The rears are great. The body roll is 10x better than before. I have 4.5" up and 6.5" down on all four corners. I didn't go with too much down travel because unsprung weight becomes useless at a certain point.

The real test will be off road.


(If anyone wants to know how to measure for shocks, take a static measurement and call somebody that knows what they're talking about)


-On a side note, I painted the gas tank skid BLACK again. I'm not sure WTF I was thinking on that one lol. You could see the damn skid coming a mile away.

tjblair
04-13-2009, 10:57 PM
Looks good man, I can't wait to get you stuck this summer:s-minigun:
But seriously we are gona have a blast this year the trails are coming along awsome, there is tons of new really chalenging and technical stuff.

96greenxjjeep
04-13-2009, 11:03 PM
awesome

Deadman 94 xj
04-13-2009, 11:03 PM
Looks good man, I can't wait to get you stuck this summer:s-minigun:
But seriously we are gona have a blast this year the trails are coming along awsome, there is tons of new really chalenging and technical stuff.


Thanks. You know what really sucks? My wedding is JUNE 6th!!!
You guys really need to change that date!

tjblair
04-13-2009, 11:07 PM
You got to talk to rob about that one. What's the problem anyway? You meant you can't talk her into an offroading hunnymoon?

Deadman 94 xj
04-13-2009, 11:09 PM
You got to talk to rob about that one. What's the problem anyway? You meant you can't talk her into an offroading hunnymoon?

Ha! I can't even get her to come on a regular trip, and she owns a jeep! I'm going to miss that one. I'm hoping to get a group together sometime in late june so I can get my butt up there.

tjblair
04-13-2009, 11:14 PM
Cool if you do I'll be there, but you can't count me as one of your ten. Sorry

Deadman 94 xj
04-13-2009, 11:22 PM
awesome

Thanks Ben.

96greenxjjeep
04-13-2009, 11:51 PM
my school is planning a trip to the badlands in june if you wanna go with us then

Deadman 94 xj
04-19-2009, 07:41 PM
Got new meats!!!

http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t250/tnetz777/Junk/jeeprearbumper044.jpg

http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t250/tnetz777/Junk/jeeprearbumper046.jpg

cityslicker
04-19-2009, 10:17 PM
looks nice man, not too high at all... what are those tires?

limegreentj
04-19-2009, 10:49 PM
look like either krawlers or bfg km2...my guess is the bfg km2 since its driven on the road

Deadman 94 xj
04-19-2009, 11:13 PM
Thanks. Yeah, they're the BFG km2. Steve helped me haul them home from National Wheel & Tire in WV (Thanks again dude!). The lugs look a lot thicker than the pictures I've seen of them. I can't imagine what Krawlers would look like.

35-12.50-15

There's a rumor going around that BFG has stopped production on the 35's. A few people have called BFG and were told that they were going to stop production until Sept. 09 ,but that was short lived and they are being produced again.

I called and talked to two reps from NTW and both said they wouldn't have anything until September. I called a third time and got a different rep on the phone that told me they had 8 in stock but this would be it for a while.

I also called www.4wd.com (http://www.4wd.com/) and they told me that they would be out for 6 months, the same with www.tirerack.com (http://www.tirerack.com/). It seems odd that these big name retailers would have their info mixed up, unless they either don't know that they're being produced or BFG is full of sheet.

80glasscj
04-20-2009, 10:22 AM
they look great, i bet you can`t wait to try them out.

Deadman 94 xj
04-22-2009, 01:58 PM
they look great, i bet you can`t wait to try them out.

For sure. I saw you had the Jeep out on Saturday, looks real good.



I still have a bunch of stuff I need to do but cash is tight again. I'm going to be taking some time off from the jeep for a while. I'd like to start learning to fab some stuff so I can stop buying and start building.

Plans:

I need to box the LCA mounts, bumpstops front & rear, get the fame stiffeners welded up, fab up a belly skid, finish bulding the new track bar, build the traction bar, pick up some shafts for the D30, PS & Trany coolers, figure out an interior cage, and figure out what transfer case I want to go with.

I'm also debating on the anti-rock sway bar. It might help with off camber stuff seeing as how the jeep is a little too tall for what I want to do with it. I love the clearance on rocks but a little more stability would be nice too. I'm not sure about that one yet.

CESCO
04-23-2009, 03:36 PM
fabrication can be a lot fun and rewarding to say that you made it, but it also burns up ALOT of time.... which is exactly what I do not have much of.

trailblaze
04-23-2009, 07:46 PM
sexy tires...

MF Steve!
04-23-2009, 08:55 PM
Bastid...put those meats on already! You made me wake up early on a Saturday...at least get them on there! LOL

Deadman 94 xj
04-23-2009, 09:26 PM
Bastid...put those meats on already! You made me wake up early on a Saturday...at least get them on there! LOL


LOL, I'm BROKE!!!

I should have them on next week sometime.

MF Steve!
04-23-2009, 09:36 PM
LOL, I'm BROKE!!!

I should have them on next week sometime.

Sell off that pimp gray tube bumper! :flipoff2:

DMG
04-23-2009, 09:43 PM
Nice! I love those new BFGs!


Got new meats!!!

http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t250/tnetz777/Junk/jeeprearbumper044.jpg

http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t250/tnetz777/Junk/jeeprearbumper046.jpg

Deadman 94 xj
04-23-2009, 09:52 PM
Dave, they're no IROCs but they're nice. I can't wait to get them mounted up.


Steve, Fawk you! :flipoff2:

CESCO
04-30-2009, 08:26 PM
Dave, they're no IROCs but they're nice. I can't wait to get them mounted up.


I'll trade you my half worn out IROC'S for those!!!:118::118:

Deadman 94 xj
04-30-2009, 11:48 PM
I'll trade you my half worn out IROC'S for those!!!:118::118:

Deal!!!






























:flipoff2: Give me a couple months lol.

Deadman 94 xj
05-07-2009, 09:45 AM
Got the tires on. No wheeling pics yet, too busy.

http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t250/tnetz777/Junk/Jeep007.jpg

http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t250/tnetz777/Junk/Jeep014-1.jpg

http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t250/tnetz777/Junk/Jeep012.jpg

I gained a little dif clearance, wooohooo.

aman-fred
05-09-2009, 09:21 PM
Very nice :D

Deadman 94 xj
05-09-2009, 10:15 PM
Thanks Andy,

I got to test out the tires a little today. It was a little wet, no mud, but they beat the shit out of the ATs LOL. They're very soft and stuck to what rocks I could find. I can't wait to do a little real wheelin.

http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t250/tnetz777/Junk/shower046.jpg

http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t250/tnetz777/Junk/shower044.jpg

http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t250/tnetz777/Junk/shower048.jpg

http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t250/tnetz777/Junk/shower038.jpg

http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t250/tnetz777/Junk/shower040.jpg

tjblair
05-09-2009, 10:23 PM
Looks good dude! Now you are ready for the new improved snake trail. Wait till you see what we have added. Hope to see you in eau claire!

96greenxjjeep
05-09-2009, 10:27 PM
sweet dood

Deadman 94 xj
05-09-2009, 10:31 PM
Looks good dude! Now you are ready for the new improved snake trail. Wait till you see what we have added. Hope to see you in eau claire!

I can't wait!!! Last time I only used the winch 4 times...LOL

Thanks.

tjblair
05-09-2009, 10:44 PM
You will use it alot more now. I will be amazed if nobody flops it in there now. there are some ledges in there that are easily 5 maybe 6ft. To be honest it kind of scares me now ( its that bad).

jeepin ruby
05-09-2009, 10:46 PM
Nice!!! Ive been running the KM2s since Oct. And although Ive only been real wheelin 3 times with them (i know, sad) I looove these tires! Just point and shoot and you go. Ive been really happy with them.


Rig looks good!

Deadman 94 xj
05-09-2009, 10:50 PM
You will use it alot more now. I will be amazed if nobody flops it in there now. there are some ledges in there that are easily 5 maybe 6ft. To be honest it kind of scares me now ( its that bad).

We'll see. I had the pucker effect going on last time I can only imagine what it's like now. Honestly I really should have broke something then, that trail was sick! Very technical.

Is that tree still there. The one at the beginning that requires like a 10pt turn? I got through after a few trys but I know that Big yellow YJ had some trouble. I think he ended up going around. Just wondering if you guys decided to "move" it.


Thanks Shawn! I've seen your Jeep, looks great! You should try and make it out some time, we need a few more Xjs out there.

tjblair
05-09-2009, 10:56 PM
Pretty sure it's still there, all the new stuff is at the end there is a huge open play area at the very end that may end up being accessble without running the whole trail, not sure about that yet though. It is nasty in there though!

Deadman 94 xj
05-09-2009, 11:06 PM
Pretty sure it's still there, all the new stuff is at the end there is a huge open play area at the very end that may end up being accessble without running the whole trail, not sure about that yet though. It is nasty in there though!

Nice! See you up there. Soon hopefully.

aman-fred
05-10-2009, 08:57 PM
Looks like they clear nice. I:icon_syda:your jeep.

Deadman 94 xj
05-10-2009, 10:01 PM
Thanks! I'm very surprised at the way everything worked out. The only clearance issue it has is when the front is stuffed and the tire is turned, it rubs on the little mud flap. You can see it in the pic above. The shocks all clear at full stuff and I have zero bumpstops right now. I thought for sure I would at least need something in the rear. I still might though, I'm sure I'll find out more when I test it all out for real.

I'm happy with it though, I think it's a combo of lift height and luck.

Thanks again.

Deadman 94 xj
02-10-2010, 11:27 PM
Anybody have tips or experience searching for parts overseas?

I'm getting ready to do the WJ knuckle swap on the jeep. The angles on the one ton steering aren't cutting it because of the dead spot. If I can locate a RHD WJ I can use it's left siide knuckle and have a true high steer settup.

Any ideas other than the dealer? I tried Car-parts.com, no luck.

cjw94xk
02-10-2010, 11:33 PM
I am sure you can find one on Ebay or something but isn't shipping gonna be a bitch? Did you try a dealership? I am sure most of those parts are either made here, Mexico and Canada. I would give that a shot or shoot me a pm. I have a buddy who works at Jeep.

Deadman 94 xj
02-10-2010, 11:38 PM
I am sure you can find one on Ebay or something but isn't shipping gonna be a bitch? Did you try a dealership? I am sure most of those parts are either made here, Mexico and Canada. I would give that a shot or shoot me a pm. I have a buddy who works at Jeep.

Thanks. I looked on ebay too, nothing. The part isn't that expensive used so I wouldn't mind the shipping so much. I haven't tried the dealer. I can only imagine what they would want for it. I can find the standard here for ~ $30-40. The dealer would probably want around $250 :D. I'll give them a call tomorrow though, just to get an idea.

XJchris98
02-11-2010, 01:43 AM
Not sure if this would help you or not Tom, I dont think it came off a RHD though.
http://naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=1022927

I found that a couple days ago and have been kicking around the idea ever since. However, a 44 swap is looking more promising than polishing up my 30 right now.


Check around on NAXJA for the guys doing the 2500 XJ conversions. They have been ordering parts from overseas for a while now, so they might be able to shed some light on this. Good luck!

JeepSteeler
02-11-2010, 09:04 AM
I've ordered parts from the UK on occasion. Only tip I can give is to make sure you let them know you are exempt from the VAT tax when you buy it. It can add a lot to the price. Last time I bought from the UK it was 17%.....but they are supposed to exempt you if you are not in Europe. They might charge you but then refund the tax amount too as another way.

Deadman 94 xj
02-11-2010, 10:56 AM
Thanks for the tip. Thanks Chris, I sent him a pm but it says sale pending so he probably sold them. That's ok though.

Yeah, I here ya on the D30. I just don't have other options right now. No matter which way I cut it, I'm looking at 4 new wheels, and the super kit for the 8.8 (5, 5.5 bolt patern option), not to mention the axle build it self, which would have to be a matching bolt patern D44. I'm not going through all that work and cash for a 44. It's not going to happen anytime soon.

The D30 has held up great so far. It has great clearance and it's already trussed so I might as well throw some money at it and use it for a few more yrs. :102:

XJchris98
02-11-2010, 11:27 AM
Thanks for the tip. Thanks Chris, I sent him a pm but it says sale pending so he probably sold them. That's ok though.

Is that what you needed though? If so, I know Millerstown had at least 1 or 2 WJ's with the whole steering setup intact.

Deadman 94 xj
02-11-2010, 11:47 AM
Is that what you needed though? If so, I know Millerstown had at least 1 or 2 WJ's with the whole steering setup intact.

Yeah, that's probably what I'll end up doing. What I want to do is locate a right knuckle from a RHD wj that would match ^^that left knuckle.

That would allow me to run the tie-rod on both upper "arms" rather than just the drag-link on the driverside arm.

The standard knuckles will work perfectly fine for correcting my steering problem, I just wanted to move everything up a bit.

This:
http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a373/SierraDrifter/Jeep%20Build/trackbar2-2.jpg

VS' this:



http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v332/p1atinum/steering/100_1136.jpg

XJchris98
02-11-2010, 12:54 PM
Gotcha. Thats what I thought you were doing and is apparently more common of a swap than I had thought.

Keep us posted on what you end up doing. If my plans to do a 44 fall though, I may be heading down the same road here soon. :029:

Deadman 94 xj
02-11-2010, 01:11 PM
Will do. I think I got my rights and lefts mixed up in my last post lol. But you get the idea. I'll keep you posted. It'll be getting started as soon as the snow melts here.

I also need to find somebody willing to cut and rotate the inner C's to finally correct my pinion/castor angle. I might as well go all the way I guess.

The wj knuckle swap is pretty cool be cause it not only corrects the dead spot in the t-type steering but it'll give you nice big brakes for the over sized tires we're running. Win win situation.

rubberduck
02-15-2010, 10:50 PM
I also need to find somebody willing to cut and rotate the inner C's to finally correct my pinion/castor angle.

Christopher on here is an axle fab genius he should be able to do just about anything you can dream up.

Deadman 94 xj
02-16-2010, 12:08 AM
Christopher on here is an axle fab genius he should be able to do just about anything you can dream up.

Thanks. I know of Chris and a few others. I looked into it and it's doesn't seem difficult, other than the labor involved.

Also, after using my noggin, I realize I can't rotate the axle anyway without causing binding issues because of the truss that's on it. :gear_grin:

andrew2516
02-16-2010, 12:11 PM
I also need to find somebody willing to cut and rotate the inner C's to finally correct my pinion/castor angle. I might as well go all the way I guess.

How much lift are you running? You should be able to get it right just by adjusting your control arms.

Also for the 44, I've been looking into the same thing lately but my 30 is already built so there is no reason for me to waste money on wheels and brackets to get the same strength I have now. The only benefit I would get is having lock out hubs.

I have one ton OTK steering and just recently blew out the bearings for the steering shaft in my YJ box that is only a few months old...plus my track bar is already mounted above my axle so I'm thinking of swapping over to a high steer setup also.

andrew2516
02-16-2010, 12:14 PM
Are you running spacers in your one ton steering? That might be some of your problem.

Deadman 94 xj
02-16-2010, 12:22 PM
Are you running spacers in your one ton steering? That might be some of your problem.

Yeah, I've run the polly spacer and wore that out. Then I fabed up a metal "washer" (basically a drilled out shock washer) to run over the polly spacer but it's slowly starting to go. The knuckles are reamed perfectly. It's just the angles. I shouldn't be wearing out spacers like this.

The WJ knuckle should make everything nice and tight again.

Deadman 94 xj
02-16-2010, 12:46 PM
How much lift are you running? You should be able to get it right just by adjusting your control arms.

Also for the 44, I've been looking into the same thing lately but my 30 is already built so there is no reason for me to waste money on wheels and brackets to get the same strength I have now. The only benefit I would get is having lock out hubs.

I have one ton OTK steering and just recently blew out the bearings for the steering shaft in my YJ box that is only a few months old...plus my track bar is already mounted above my axle so I'm thinking of swapping over to a high steer setup also.


Sorry I missed this one :)

Here goes:

I'm at about ~7". I did find a happy medium between the caster and the pinion angle. It's almost there but I still get vibes above 65 mph. Not bad, just annoying. I would sacrafice a little more caster but I can't because rotating the axle anymore causes the passenger UCA mount to bind on the UCA. You have to see it. It's because of the way the mount sits on the truss (tnt truss) and the angle that the arm comes up from (radius arm).

I also have issues with the trackbar mount, which sits on top of the axle. The more I rotate the axle, the closer the trackbar gets to the UCA mount.

I could either move the axle back a lot (shorten the control arms) but I don't want to lose any wheel base. Or, I could break out the grinder and start cutting into stuff. Right now I'll just live with the vibes.

I have to rebuild the trackbar as it is anyway. I need a staight bar rather than one with a bend in it. Here's why: I have the RE tackbar bracket brace, which runs above the track bar. Because of the trackbar 'S" shape and the fact that it sits on top of the axle, the trackbar binds on the bracket brace, causeing it to wear out joints super fast.

In short, it's a freakin mess.

http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t250/tnetz777/jeep010.jpg

NeonRyder
02-16-2010, 01:26 PM
Anybody have tips or experience searching for parts overseas?

I'm getting ready to do the WJ knuckle swap on the jeep. The angles on the one ton steering aren't cutting it because of the dead spot. If I can locate a RHD WJ I can use it's left siide knuckle and have a true high steer settup.

Any ideas other than the dealer? I tried Car-parts.com, no luck.

I have done the WJ conversion and couldn't be happier with it. In my research using the RHD steering knuckle is a no-go because it throws your ackerman angles all out of wack.

I did the standard conversion with 1-ton steering. I run the drag-link on top of the steering arm but have to run the tie-rod under because of clearance issues. Since its an XJ you should have no trouble with flipping the tie-rod too. I can get you part numbers and pics of my setup if you want. You should need to change your track-bar mount too.

Deadman 94 xj
02-16-2010, 02:20 PM
I have done the WJ conversion and couldn't be happier with it. In my research using the RHD steering knuckle is a no-go because it throws your ackerman angles all out of wack.

I did the standard conversion with 1-ton steering. I run the drag-link on top of the steering arm but have to run the tie-rod under because of clearance issues. Since its an XJ you should have no trouble with flipping the tie-rod too. I can get you part numbers and pics of my setup if you want. You should need to change your track-bar mount too.


Ackerman angle. http://www.rc-truckncar-tuning.com/ackerman.html I guess that's why High steer arms sold for D44's and so on, are angled. Interesting. Thanks.

As far as the tie-rod, are you saying the tie-rod TRE will not clear being over the knuckle? I was planning on running both the the tie-rod and D-link over the arms. From the pics I've seen it seems to work.

Pics would be great if you can get them easily enough.

Edit: I'm guessing yours is a YJ?

Thanks again.

techno
02-16-2010, 04:55 PM
If you still want to source parts from overseas, I have found that forums are the best way to go. A lot of UK businesses won't ship to the ship for 'insurance reasons', but individuals often will, if you make it worth their while. I have found that the British, Aussies and South Africans are the best to try, since they speak English (sort of), and they all are RHD countries.

NeonRyder
02-17-2010, 08:57 AM
Ackerman angle. http://www.rc-truckncar-tuning.com/ackerman.html I guess that's why High steer arms sold for D44's and so on, are angled. Interesting. Thanks.

As far as the tie-rod, are you saying the tie-rod TRE will not clear being over the knuckle? I was planning on running both the the tie-rod and D-link over the arms. From the pics I've seen it seems to work.

Pics would be great if you can get them easily enough.

Edit: I'm guessing yours is a YJ?

Thanks again.

Yes its a YJ and I don't have enough clearence to run the tie-rod on top of the steering arms. I do run the drag-link on top. I'm spring over with the RE 1.5" springs and my drag link is almost level. You should be fine on top of the steering arms because you don't have the leaf spring in the way. I'll try and get some pics of my set up tonight, if not then by the weekend for sure.

NeonRyder
02-17-2010, 09:00 AM
As far as the ackerman stuff goes, the upper steering arm is about 1.5-2" further inboard of the lower arms.

Deadman 94 xj
02-17-2010, 10:35 AM
Thanks Ian. Don't worry about the pics if you don't already have them saved.

NeonRyder
02-18-2010, 08:22 AM
Thanks Ian. Don't worry about the pics if you don't already have them saved.

Its no big deal about the pics. Let me know if you have any questions about anything. There is alot of stuff out there on this conversion and Ive gone through most of it lol. There are a couple good threads on pirate but most of the stuff is scattered all over.

What wheels are you running? Some people report no clearence issues with 15" rims, I had to grind down my calipers a little. Also I'm still running the Teves calipers, the Akibono ones are larger and may present more problems. Also I here the rotors needed are from a 99 Crown Victoria (11"), I used ones from a 02 (12.5") but had to do more grinding for them to clear everything.

Deadman 94 xj
02-18-2010, 11:11 AM
Its no big deal about the pics. Let me know if you have any questions about anything. There is alot of stuff out there on this conversion and Ive gone through most of it lol. There are a couple good threads on pirate but most of the stuff is scattered all over.

What wheels are you running? Some people report no clearence issues with 15" rims, I had to grind down my calipers a little. Also I'm still running the Teves calipers, the Akibono ones are larger and may present more problems. Also I here the rotors needed are from a 99 Crown Victoria (11"), I used ones from a 02 (12.5") but had to do more grinding for them to clear everything.

Thanks. I'm probably going to use WJ rotors and just redrill them for 5 4.5. That seems to be what guys are doing now I think. My wheels are 15" with 3.75 BS. I'll probably do what you did with the calipers because of the clearance issues. Those are some big rotors :).

The only bad thing about this is I don't think I'll be able to put the stock wheels back on for inspection. We'll see.

NeonRyder
02-19-2010, 08:38 AM
Thanks. I'm probably going to use WJ rotors and just redrill them for 5 4.5. That seems to be what guys are doing now I think. My wheels are 15" with 3.75 BS. I'll probably do what you did with the calipers because of the clearance issues. Those are some big rotors :).

The only bad thing about this is I don't think I'll be able to put the stock wheels back on for inspection. We'll see.

Yeah the stock wheels thing will definitely be an issue. I cant see how they would work. Maybe if you remove the caliper completely lol. My wheels are somewhere around 4" BS too. I fit them to get about 1/8" clearance from the inside of the wheel. Didn't alot of later cherokees come w/ 16" rims?

I used the Crown Vic rotors so that I wouldn't have to do any redrilling, they are 5 on 4.5. That way I can use off the shelf replacement parts for brakes. Plus it may be difficult to get the redrilled holes located properly.

Deadman 94 xj
02-19-2010, 11:17 AM
Yeah the stock wheels thing will definitely be an issue. I cant see how they would work. Maybe if you remove the caliper completely lol. My wheels are somewhere around 4" BS too. I fit them to get about 1/8" clearance from the inside of the wheel. Didn't alot of later cherokees come w/ 16" rims?

I used the Crown Vic rotors so that I wouldn't have to do any redrilling, they are 5 on 4.5. That way I can use off the shelf replacement parts for brakes. Plus it may be difficult to get the redrilled holes located properly.

Ok, I'll look into the crown vic rotors. I'd hate to have to redrill everytime I need to change a rotor anyway.

I think a few cherokees did come with 16" rims. I know some ZJ's did too. It shouldn't be too hard to locate a cheap set of rims though. Just another step in the process.

I'm just waiting for the snow to melt a little before I get started here. Thanks again for the help.

MechanicalMayham
02-20-2010, 10:12 PM
I am very interested in doing this. I have a HP D30 laying in the garage for this exact thing. I would go D44 if I could find them.
I would be interested to know how this all works out and get a list of components. I was told there is a spacer to be made for something, I got CRS right now so I will have to jog my memory.

NeonRyder
02-21-2010, 08:15 PM
I am very interested in doing this. I have a HP D30 laying in the garage for this exact thing. I would go D44 if I could find them.
I would be interested to know how this all works out and get a list of components. I was told there is a spacer to be made for something, I got CRS right now so I will have to jog my memory.

Yes you need to have a spacer welded onto the knuckle.

JKS makes them. http://store.jksmfg.com/merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=FAB_930&Store_Code=JKS01&Category_Code=FABParts

Other than that its not a hard conversion.

Deadman 94 xj
03-07-2010, 12:08 PM
Hey Ian,
I started collecting parts for this. The crown vic rotors might turn out to be a great tip from you becuaue I haven't come across anybody using them. I do have a question though, if you remember. I'm assuming the YJ unit bearings are the same as the XJ. How was the clearence between the rotor and the knuckle? And, does the WJ caliper ride the rotor center, or is it offset any?

Thanks

NeonRyder
03-09-2010, 08:37 AM
Hey Ian,
I started collecting parts for this. The crown vic rotors might turn out to be a great tip from you becuaue I haven't come across anybody using them. I do have a question though, if you remember. I'm assuming the YJ unit bearings are the same as the XJ. How was the clearence between the rotor and the knuckle? And, does the WJ caliper ride the rotor center, or is it offset any?

Thanks

Glad I could give you some tips, I did a lot of searching when I did this so I'm happy to pass along any info that I found. I used the 02 Crown Vic rotors and I have no clearance issues with the rotor and knuckle but I do have issues between rotor and caliper / caliper bracket. I should have gotten the 99 ones because they are supposed to be slightly smaller and don't have the claiper clearance issues.

If I understand you correctly the caliper is centerd on the rotor and will have to be spaced out by the correct amount. For me it was about .20".

Let me know if you need anymore help.

Deadman 94 xj
03-09-2010, 10:35 AM
That's what I needed, thanks!

Deadman 94 xj
03-13-2010, 03:01 PM
I got the Calipers, spacers, and the Knuckles today. Talk about a difference between the stock calipers and the WJ.

http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t250/tnetz777/Picture003-1.jpg

http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t250/tnetz777/Picture004-1.jpg

Deadman 94 xj
03-13-2010, 03:21 PM
A little OT from the brakes but I also got the front fenders on. Yes the sticker adds 25hp :flipoff2:

http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t250/tnetz777/Picture006-1.jpg

http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t250/tnetz777/Picture011-1.jpg

http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t250/tnetz777/Picture008-1.jpg


I'm still working on the rears. I'm waiting on some hardware and I need to fix a couple of fitment issues.

Sycotik Skier
03-13-2010, 04:01 PM
those are really sweet. Is that a replacement fender or just a skin?

Deadman 94 xj
03-13-2010, 04:24 PM
Thanks Brent. They were made by a company called Slickrock Gear. They went out of business in 2007. I'd always liked them and then I came across a guy selling all four, never installed, for the price that the company would sell just the fronts for. For me it was a deal I couldn't pass up.

They're skins. The "skin" is 3/16" and the flare is compound bent 3/16". The inner flare goes up under the jeep about 2" so I had to cut out the fenders a bit. The ends of the flare are boxed with 1/8", for the "boxed" look.

I've got some brackets I still have to install that connect the inner fender to the engine compartment sheet metal. I'm not sure I'll even need them because they're pretty solid as is. We'll see.

This will give the jeep a little more body protection, and on the trial I'll no longer have to stop to pick up my flare LOL.

Sycotik Skier
03-13-2010, 04:58 PM
That's really bad ass.

Deadman 94 xj
03-13-2010, 05:06 PM
That's really bad ass.


Not as bad ass as a 350 on 35" boggers but it'll do. :102:


:biggrin:

ridgerunner97
03-13-2010, 06:00 PM
Tom that is sweet man! I always liked them armor flares like that from slickrock.

cityslicker
03-13-2010, 07:20 PM
well I have never layed eyes on flares like that b4, and I never saw amy I thought looked better. you gonna silicone between the flare and the fender? keep the water out?

Logans front bumper, those flares, the meats, the lift, the sliders.. all very nice... now get a 4 door and start over.

Dozer45
03-13-2010, 07:36 PM
Lookin sweet, definetly better than the TJ flares you sold me, which i have yet to put on.

tjblair
03-13-2010, 07:45 PM
Looks good Tom, we will have to give those things a test this summer.

Sycotik Skier
03-13-2010, 08:41 PM
i'll trade

Deadman 94 xj
03-13-2010, 10:44 PM
well I have never layed eyes on flares like that b4, and I never saw amy I thought looked better. you gonna silicone between the flare and the fender? keep the water out?

Logans front bumper, those flares, the meats, the lift, the sliders.. all very nice... now get a 4 door and start over.

Thanks guys. Yeah I was going to do it this weekend but the rain got there first. I'm going to wait until they dry out a bit and then silicone the top and sides.

Jeepin'Jones
03-13-2010, 11:14 PM
Damn, that looks good. I like the look of those better then the tube flares I've seen.

Deadman 94 xj
03-13-2010, 11:22 PM
Damn, that looks good. I like the look of those better then the tube flares I've seen.

Thanks man. I do like the look. Obviously I can't take credit because I didn't make them but IMO the square follows the lines of the XJ pretty good.

One thing about the tube fenders is they've been proven. But like Jeff said, we'll see how well these hold up this summer.

cityslicker
03-15-2010, 03:51 PM
they gotta hold up better then plastic. all I could imagine happening is getting creases in the sheet metal along the edge of the bolted on steel. If you hit something hard enough..

96greenxjjeep
03-15-2010, 04:32 PM
looks good dood am i gunna see that thing this year..

Deadman 94 xj
03-15-2010, 04:47 PM
they gotta hold up better then plastic. all I could imagine happening is getting creases in the sheet metal along the edge of the bolted on steel. If you hit something hard enough..

That's the only thing I can see too. Then again, we'll find a way to mess something up lol.

My only real concern would be how well they'll hold up in a flop. These things are pretty beefy but now that I think about it, I'm going to install the brackets. I don't plan on flopping it but they might help.

Ben, I plan on making all of the events!

BigDukeSix
03-15-2010, 04:51 PM
Nice fenders Tom

cityslicker
03-16-2010, 11:22 AM
well fixing what you break is half the fun anyway. otherwise you would eventually get board and build a new rig.

radojim
03-16-2010, 01:44 PM
hey tom, i forgot a had a bunch of pics of you at carlisle. i tried to upload 'em but they're all coming out like this....
http://i107.photobucket.com/albums/m312/radojim/DSC00020.jpg
http://i107.photobucket.com/albums/m312/radojim/DSC00019.jpg
sorry dude

Deadman 94 xj
03-16-2010, 01:54 PM
Haha, No problem Jim! I replied to your pm about meeting up BTW.

joker291977
03-17-2010, 06:57 AM
that is a nice ride you have there maybe one day i'll have something nice like you guys but for right know all i got is a big ol ram

Deadman 94 xj
03-17-2010, 11:34 AM
that is a nice ride you have there maybe one day i'll have something nice like you guys but for right know all i got is a big ol ram

The ram makes a good enough tow rig!

If you decide to go with the XJ you can find one pretty cheap. They're not that difficult work with. Once you start getting into big axles and tires it takes a bit though. Just like anything else I guess. I plan on making this one last a while the way it is. I doubt I'll ever throw tons under it. :)

joker291977
03-17-2010, 11:44 AM
dot get me wrong but that ram is a beast in the woods ive had it all the way back to the falls in creek falls/jacobs creek got in and back out some of you might have been there last year when i went back there where alot of jeeps coming out when i went back and there where a few still in the back but i still want something smaller for fun and fun only

Deadman 94 xj
03-17-2010, 11:50 AM
dot get me wrong but that ram is a beast in the woods ive had it all the way back to the falls in creek falls/jacobs creek got in and back out some of you might have been there last year when i went back there where alot of jeeps coming out when i went back and there where a few still in the back but i still want something smaller for fun and fun only

I don't doubt it at all. I have a friend that has one that he uses on the trail only. It's a beast too. Solid front axle and a little lift takes it far.

joker291977
03-17-2010, 12:04 PM
im hoping to join you guys with some trail rides i wanna check out casprise

dan58
03-17-2010, 12:06 PM
Have you looked at the Rock Slide Engineering D30 tube reinforcement thingamabob? I just saw it todya.

limegreentj
03-17-2010, 12:15 PM
dan, i have to ask...do you work in the 4x4 industry? you are always on top of the latest stuff and very well educated about lots of things.

i was just wondering

Deadman 94 xj
03-17-2010, 12:22 PM
I did a little more research on the WJ swap and I think I narrowed down what rotors I'm going to use. I want to get them local so I looked at NAPA and they have great size descriptions, unlike advanceauto or autozone.

I could not find 99 11" Crown Vic rotors. I did find them at Rockauto but not local and the dimensions were off. They were too shallow and the rotor thickness was only .75" compared to the stock WJ of almost an 1". So, Ian, you might have done yourself a favor going with the 2002 rotors if I'm right.

After looking at the specs I found that 2003 Sport track rotors might be the best bet based on the specs.

Everybody uses the stock WJ rotor and redrills them to 5x4.5. Since these seem to work, I used them as a comparison.

1999 WJ rotor:
# of Bolt Holes : 5
Bolt Circle Diameter : 5"
Brake Rotor Diameter : 12"
Brake Rotor Discard Thickness : .97"
Brake Rotor Thickness New : 1.03"
Brake Rotor Type : Disc Brake Rotor Only
Center Hole Diameter : 2.84"
Height : 2.5"
Maximum Lateral Runout : .004"

2002 Crown vic rotor:
# of Bolt Holes : 5
Bolt Circle Diameter : 4.5"
Brake Rotor Diameter : 12.44"
Brake Rotor Discard Thickness : 1.01"
Brake Rotor Thickness New : 1.11"
Brake Rotor Type : Disc Brake Rotor Only
Center Hole Diameter : 2.83"
Height : 2.59"
Maximum Lateral Runout : .004"

2003 Sport track Rotor:
# of Bolt Holes : 5
Bolt Circle Diameter : 4.5"
Brake Rotor Diameter : 12.01"
Brake Rotor Discard Thickness : .97"
Brake Rotor Thickness New : 1.03"
Brake Rotor Type : Disc Brake Rotor Only
Center Hole Diameter : 2.84"
Height : 2.6"
Maximum Lateral Runout : .004"

And just for shits & giggles
the stock 2000 cherokee rotor:
# of Bolt Holes : 5
Bolt Circle Diameter : 4.5"
Brake Rotor Diameter : 11.03"
Brake Rotor Discard Thickness : .89"
Brake Rotor Thickness New : .96"
Brake Rotor Type : Disc Brake Rotor Only
Center Hole Diameter : 2.84"
Height : 3.06"
Maximum Lateral Runout : .004"

The Sport track rotors shouldn't require clearancing since they're only 12.01" versus the 12.44" of the crownvics that you said had some clearancing issues. Even if I could find the 11" local, I might not get the pad contact that we're after with this swap. We'll see how it all lines up :)

One thing I'm a little worried about is the height. The stock WJ is 2.5" and the Sport track is 2.6". I'm not sure that extra .10" will make much of a difference.

Deadman 94 xj
03-17-2010, 12:29 PM
Have you looked at the Rock Slide Engineering D30 tube reinforcement thingamabob? I just saw it todya.

Never heard of it. I'll have to check. I have seen guys split tube and sleeve the stock axle tube. I'm not sure of the benefit since I already have the truss on it. One build I saw had the tube sleeved and trussed, along with being welded to the diff. 30 spline inners/outers.

He said he broke less on that setup on 37's than he does now on a built 44! He had no ring gear issues or unit bearing issues. Since going to the 44 he broke 2 hubs and a number of inners lol.

dan58
03-17-2010, 12:37 PM
dan, i have to ask...do you work in the 4x4 industry? you are always on top of the latest stuff and very well educated about lots of things.

i was just wondering

Nope. I'm just a consultant to the Army's ammo plants. I just like being an informed customer. :biggrin: I found this when I was looking for new seals for my Rock Slide drive slugs.


Never heard of it. I'll have to check. I have seen guys split tube and sleeve the stock axle tube. I'm not sure of the benefit since I already have the truss on it. One build I saw had the tube sleeved and trussed, along with being welded to the diff. 30 spline inners/outers.

He said he broke less on that setup on 37's than he does now on a built 44! He had no ring gear issues or unit bearing issues. Since going to the 44 he broke 2 hubs and a number of inners lol.

It's an interesting kit. Just google them. It does both inner and outer of the D30.

Deadman 94 xj
03-17-2010, 12:40 PM
Nope. I'm just a consultant to the Army's ammo plants. I just like being an informed customer. :biggrin: I found this when I was looking for new seals for my Rock Slide drive slugs.



It's an interesting kit. Just google them. It does both inner and outer of the D30.

Will do, thanks!

Deadman 94 xj
03-17-2010, 01:18 PM
I like it. I'd probably just do the inner since I wouldn't want to mess with what is already on the axle. How are these installed? Plug/Rosette welds down the tube?

http://www.rockslideengineering.com/servlet/the-9/R-dsh-SE-Inner-Axle-Housing/Detail

NeonRyder
03-18-2010, 11:19 AM
I did a little more research on the WJ swap and I think I narrowed down what rotors I'm going to use. I want to get them local so I looked at NAPA and they have great size descriptions, unlike advanceauto or autozone.

I could not find 99 11" Crown Vic rotors. I did find them at Rockauto but not local and the dimensions were off. They were too shallow and the rotor thickness was only .75" compared to the stock WJ of almost an 1". So, Ian, you might have done yourself a favor going with the 2002 rotors if I'm right.

After looking at the specs I found that 2003 Sport track rotors might be the best bet based on the specs.

Everybody uses the stock WJ rotor and redrills them to 5x4.5. Since these seem to work, I used them as a comparison.

1999 WJ rotor:
# of Bolt Holes : 5
Bolt Circle Diameter : 5"
Brake Rotor Diameter : 12"
Brake Rotor Discard Thickness : .97"
Brake Rotor Thickness New : 1.03"
Brake Rotor Type : Disc Brake Rotor Only
Center Hole Diameter : 2.84"
Height : 2.5"
Maximum Lateral Runout : .004"

2002 Crown vic rotor:
# of Bolt Holes : 5
Bolt Circle Diameter : 4.5"
Brake Rotor Diameter : 12.44"
Brake Rotor Discard Thickness : 1.01"
Brake Rotor Thickness New : 1.11"
Brake Rotor Type : Disc Brake Rotor Only
Center Hole Diameter : 2.83"
Height : 2.59"
Maximum Lateral Runout : .004"

2003 Sport track Rotor:
# of Bolt Holes : 5
Bolt Circle Diameter : 4.5"
Brake Rotor Diameter : 12.01"
Brake Rotor Discard Thickness : .97"
Brake Rotor Thickness New : 1.03"
Brake Rotor Type : Disc Brake Rotor Only
Center Hole Diameter : 2.84"
Height : 2.6"
Maximum Lateral Runout : .004"

And just for shits & giggles
the stock 2000 cherokee rotor:
# of Bolt Holes : 5
Bolt Circle Diameter : 4.5"
Brake Rotor Diameter : 11.03"
Brake Rotor Discard Thickness : .89"
Brake Rotor Thickness New : .96"
Brake Rotor Type : Disc Brake Rotor Only
Center Hole Diameter : 2.84"
Height : 3.06"
Maximum Lateral Runout : .004"

The Sport track rotors shouldn't require clearancing since they're only 12.01" versus the 12.44" of the crownvics that you said had some clearancing issues. Even if I could find the 11" local, I might not get the pad contact that we're after with this swap. We'll see how it all lines up :)

One thing I'm a little worried about is the height. The stock WJ is 2.5" and the Sport track is 2.6". I'm not sure that extra .10" will make much of a difference.

I read about the sport-track rotors too, but when I measured some they were way off. The hot ticket was supposed to be the 2wd ones not the 4wd ones but I could only find the 2wd ones as an assembly with the bearing and studs pressed in.
What were the dimensions for the 11" crown vic rotors?
And finally, yes that .1" will make a difference, it will change the spacing on the caliper bracket that you have to do. Its actually better as it will get your calipers farther inboard and help with the wheel clearance.
Also what year WJ did you get your stuff from? It looks like its 02 or earlier, that's what I got with the smaller teves calipers. I'll be following along your thread, the more correct write-ups there are the better.

Deadman 94 xj
03-18-2010, 12:03 PM
I read about the sport-track rotors too, but when I measured some they were way off. The hot ticket was supposed to be the 2wd ones not the 4wd ones but I could only find the 2wd ones as an assembly with the bearing and studs pressed in.
What were the dimensions for the 11" crown vic rotors?
And finally, yes that .1" will make a difference, it will change the spacing on the caliper bracket that you have to do. Its actually better as it will get your calipers farther inboard and help with the wheel clearance.
Also what year WJ did you get your stuff from? It looks like its 02 or earlier, that's what I got with the smaller teves calipers. I'll be following along your thread, the more correct write-ups there are the better.


Ok, It turns out the 11" rotors I was looking at were rears...:icon_weed: from the 1999 crown vic. I found the 11" fronts, but from a 96.

# of Bolt Holes : 5
Bolt Circle Diameter : 4.5"
Brake Rotor Diameter : 11.45"
Brake Rotor Discard Thickness : .98"
Brake Rotor Thickness New : 1.03"
Brake Rotor Type : Disc Brake Rotor Only
Center Hole Diameter : 2.83"
Height : 2.6"

I'd still like to go with the 2002 sport-trac because of the bigger area but your comment on the measurements being off has me thinking twice.

The knuckles and calipers I got were from a 99. The calipers are the Teves calipers.

Deadman 94 xj
03-26-2010, 06:46 PM
Just a recap of what the hell I'm doing lately since I'm not good at organizing this thread! lol

**WJ Knuckle and brake swap. (This will fix the annoying dead spot in the steering and give me better brakes up front for the larger than stock tire size)

***Track bar rebuild using 1.5" OD, 1" ID, .25 wall DOM. 7/8 QA1 heim joints on both ends. (I can't wait to trash the trackbar that's under it now. Nothing but problems)

***Front locker. (This will allow me to stop beating up the jeep and lighten my heavy foot...a little :D.)

***Power steering cooler and filter. (I had horrible whine on the trail and even had the steering freeze up on me last yr. The fluid was way too hot to the point of boiling over. I've got an expensive gear box so I want to keep it around for a while) No more whine!


Derale Power Steering Cooler:
http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t250/tnetz777/Junk/Picture002-2.jpg

Spal ATV fan I picked up for the cooler. These are waterproof:
http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t250/tnetz777/Junk/Picture004-2.jpg

This is what it will look like:
http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t250/tnetz777/Junk/Picture001.jpg

And Jeff, this is for you :flipoff2:My tight ass picked up a cheap ass front locker lol:
http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t250/tnetz777/Junk/Picture003-2.jpg

I could have gone with the proven Lockrite or the proven Aussie but I figured why not give this guy a try.

Here's a comparison of the three. Not much of a difference I guess but the Yukon unit comes with a hardened cross pin and their springs are desined a little bit better IMO. I searched around and couldn't find anything negative enough to change my mind.
http://www.jpmagazine.com/techarticles/drivetrain/154_0910_head_to_head_lunchbox_drop_in_locker_shoo tout/spartan_locker.html


As for the fan on the steering. I'll be mounting it in front of the radiator. I'm hoping to not have to chop up the front grill but if I have to I will. The fan might not even be necessary but there's just something about another toggle switch that I can't get over :).


Fenco Steering filter. Autozone P/N 2210

http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t250/tnetz777/Junk/Picture031.jpg

7/8 QA1 heims

http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t250/tnetz777/Junk/Picture028.jpg

Deadman 94 xj
03-28-2010, 01:23 AM
Broke the rear flange tonight. Hehehe.
It's nice that these are the weak links:

http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t250/tnetz777/Junk/Picture010-2.jpg


Got the rear flares on:
http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t250/tnetz777/Junk/Picture008-2.jpg

NeonRyder
03-28-2010, 11:53 AM
Broke the rear flange tonight. Hehehe.
It's nice that these are the weak links:

http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t250/tnetz777/Junk/Picture010-2.jpg


Got the rear flares on:
http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t250/tnetz777/Junk/Picture008-2.jpg


Flares look good. What did you do to break the flange? Is that the spicer one or the ford one?

radojim
03-28-2010, 01:24 PM
What did you do to break the flange?

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uttpzoKF2e0

Deadman 94 xj
03-28-2010, 03:45 PM
Flares look good. What did you do to break the flange? Is that the spicer one or the ford one?


It was a spicer part.
I hit the bottom of the hill a little too hard and caused the springs to wrap up. Time for the traction bar build :).

Deadman 94 xj
04-25-2010, 11:19 PM
Well, I got yhe steering cooler and fan all done. Not to "hack" imo :102:

http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t250/tnetz777/Picture009-2.jpg

Wired the fan to a toggle in the dash:

http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t250/tnetz777/Picture010-2.jpg

I also got the WJ knuckles and brakes all buttoned up.

http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t250/tnetz777/Picture004-2.jpg

http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t250/tnetz777/Picture003-2.jpg

Reemed the knuckles to accept the one-ton Chevy TRE's

http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t250/tnetz777/Junk/Picture001-2.jpg

Track bar is on! Thanks Brian for the welds!!!

http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t250/tnetz777/Picture007-3.jpg

I still have some stuff left to do. The drag link needs to be replaced because it's not long enough. I just odered some Chevy TRE tube adaptors from Ballistic to go into a piece of 1.25" tube I already had lying around. Worked out great.


When it's all said and done this is what the angles should look like. I just eye-balled it for now. It'll actually be perfect! It doesn't always work out for me that way so I'm pretty happy.
http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t250/tnetz777/Picture008-2.jpg


I also got the locker all done. It wasn't as bad as I though other than running into some worn parts. I guess one of the bearings had spun on the carrier and was in pretty bad shape. I took it up to Dave's (DMG) shop and he fixed it right up by pressing a new bearing on. I highly recommend Dave's shop. He's got a lot of good things going on there.


List of parts I found were bad since starting this:
2 ball joints (1 upper, 1 lower)
Both TRE's on the Tie-Rod
1 wheel bearing
1 carrier bearing


--For the WJ swap I used rotors from a 96 Crow-vic. (The 02 and 03 Sport-tracks didn't work. They wouldn't fit the wheel bearing)

--99 wheel bearings.

--.25 spacers between the caliper bracket and the caliper.

I'm hoping to have the jeep done next weekend!

justin'sbig7
04-25-2010, 11:29 PM
nice work man! bring it to RR on the 8th

Deadman 94 xj
04-25-2010, 11:37 PM
nice work man! bring it to RR on the 8th

Thanks Justin. That's what I'm hoping for!

ridgerunner97
04-26-2010, 08:58 AM
The WJ brake package fits inside your stock 15in wheels or did you have to clearance the calipers a bit? I need brakes and am thinkin this might just have to happen along with a beef tie rod. You know what they say when stuff wears out its time to upgrade LOL

Deadman 94 xj
04-26-2010, 09:11 AM
The WJ brake package fits inside your stock 15in wheels or did you have to clearance the calipers a bit? I need brakes and am thinkin this might just have to happen along with a beef tie rod. You know what they say when stuff wears out its time to upgrade LOL

Yep, everything fits. I used the smaller Teves calipers. The Akebono calipers are bigger and require some grinding on the caliper body.

I can't say anything will work though. The wheels used here are 15" with 3.75" BS.

You should do it :).

ridgerunner97
04-26-2010, 09:19 AM
Can you PM me Part numbers of the calipers if you have em, and if you don't mind how much you got in the swap. Thanks Tom.

Deadman 94 xj
04-26-2010, 10:20 AM
Sure Jon. I don't have the P/N's. The calipers are from the 99-02 WJ and knuckles are from a 99.

As far as what I have into it, it'll vary. I bought the knuckles and calipers from a guy off of NAXJA that was going to do the swap and then decided against it I guess. I paid $100 for everything, including 2 upper WJ ball joints! Then I bought new brake pads for about $50.

Like I said before, I found a lot of stuff wrong with the jeep that seemed invisible because of a worn trackbar joint that was rattling around (that and I only put 2k miles on the jeep last yr). Luckily I had a lot of that stuff lying around new.

On top of the WJ stuff, I had to buy a wheel bearing and a lower moog ball joint :).

So bottom line was about ~$300

New calipers would have cost about that lol. There are deals out there. I'd definitely recommend checking out the jeep boards or JY's for used parts.

Ah, I forgot rotors, $36. So about ~$200 into just the WJ stuff. $350 for everything I needed.

ridgerunner97
04-26-2010, 10:27 AM
Okay that sounds like a plan. I'm probably just gonna throw pads and rotors at it and stock pile the parts up, then next time I need brakes all i'll have to do is go pick up the crown vic rotors and i'm ready to go.

Deadman 94 xj
04-26-2010, 10:39 AM
Niice!

I'm not sure how yours is set up now, but you'll also need to relocate the track bar bracket to above the axle. I could be wrong but if you don't, the drag link will bind on it and the angles will be a mess.

ridgerunner97
04-26-2010, 01:06 PM
Interesting, i'll have to do some more homework on it. Thanks Tom.

Deadman 94 xj
04-26-2010, 01:13 PM
No problem. Here's a great write up for when you're ready:

http://www.jcroffroad.com/WJ.html

The only thing "off" on it is the talk of swaping the driver side knuckle from an over seas WJ because it'll throw off the ackerman angles, like NeonRyder suggested.

Deadman 94 xj
05-05-2010, 02:52 PM
Just a note to self since I want to keep everything I put into the jeep documented.

Just replaced:
Water pump (was leaking at the gasket, not the weap hole)
Fuel pump, Bosch(jeep was stumbling a bit and the O ring was leaking)
fuel filter, Purolator
Changed oil, royal purple synthetic
2 TRE's. Tie rod.
1 wheel bearing. Pass side.
3 ball joints. 2 uppers, lower drive side
1 carrier bearing
Brake pads & rotors (front)
...

Deadman 94 xj
05-05-2010, 09:23 PM
Got to test out the jeep a little tonight. Here are some poser shots:

http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t250/tnetz777/Picture035.jpg

http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t250/tnetz777/Picture034.jpg

http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t250/tnetz777/Picture036.jpg

http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t250/tnetz777/Picture038.jpg

http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t250/tnetz777/Picture037.jpg

Got the hood vents in:

http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t250/tnetz777/Picture047.jpg

The track bar and drag link ended up pretty good. I'm still going to replace the steering with DOM and tube adaptors so there's not so much exposed thread on the TRE's.
No bump steer or DW. :)

http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t250/tnetz777/Picture044.jpg

http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t250/tnetz777/Picture048.jpg

http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t250/tnetz777/Picture042.jpg


As far as results from the WJ swap:
The stock brakes on 35's from 1-10 were about a 4. The WJ brakes, 10. For the brakes alone the swap would be worth it. There's a huge difference. The steering is also nice and tight again. No more scary moments on the highway.

As far as the front locker...WOW what a difference that makes lol. I'm still not use to the clanking/clicking sound it makes. I'm guesing that's normal but I hope it quiets down a bit because it's pretty loud.

I also think I need to replace the long arm joints. I'm getting some poping noises as the suspension travels and those joints are about all that's left to replace. I've never had one of those joints go bad so I'm not real sure how they behave.

Thanks for lookin!

Mykal
05-05-2010, 09:24 PM
It came out very good. Nice job.

Deadman 94 xj
05-05-2010, 09:30 PM
It came out very good. Nice job.

Thanks Mykal. I want to lower it a bit :(

Sloth_Fratelli
05-06-2010, 01:33 PM
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uttpzoKF2e0

damn dude, you do have a heavy right foot

Deadman 94 xj
05-19-2010, 12:21 PM
Since some of the other threads got nuked I figured I'd throw up some wheeling pics here :)

Rock Run park, 5/08/2010
Guru trail:

http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t250/tnetz777/Rock%20Run/Picture053.jpg

http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t250/tnetz777/Rock%20Run/Picture054.jpg

http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t250/tnetz777/Rock%20Run/Picture056.jpg

http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t250/tnetz777/Rock%20Run/Picture057.jpg

http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t250/tnetz777/Rock%20Run/Picture087.jpg

http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t250/tnetz777/Rock%20Run/Picture090.jpg

That's Robs big jeep on 42's!

Justin's bad ass CJ:
http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t250/tnetz777/Rock%20Run/Picture061.jpg

The beast. 42's, 60 front, Sterling 10.25 rear with an LS engine under the hood:
http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t250/tnetz777/Rock%20Run/Picture089.jpg


The ride went great. There was 4 of us and we made great time through the trail. I don't think anybody pulled cable once. The jeep did everything very well but I did pop an axle shaft u-joint doing nothing more than a slow climb (no spin) up a ledge. We threw in my spare and wheeled the rest of the trail. The shaft ears were fine so I kept it as a spare and put in another u-joint.



Fast forward to Welsville on the 16th. Holler trail and 13 steps. I don't have any pics of my heep on this one but here's a few pics of the trail and some of the other rigs that were there:

Dave's green sami. Stock axles. He poped a shaft at the end but he beat on this thing pretty damn hard and did real good up until the end. That thing impressed the hell out of me.
http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t250/tnetz777/Wellsville/Picture101.jpg

A couple of undercarrage shots. This was the only line going through here:
http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t250/tnetz777/Wellsville/Picture104.jpg

http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t250/tnetz777/Wellsville/Picture107.jpg

http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t250/tnetz777/Wellsville/Picture108.jpg

http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t250/tnetz777/Wellsville/Picture114.jpg

Steve's (80glasscj) rubicon. This thing just goes:
http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t250/tnetz777/Wellsville/Picture111.jpg

http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t250/tnetz777/Wellsville/Picture097.jpg

This is where I got most of my body damage. The jeep pretty much flopped down on this rock and I had to drag it through.

http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t250/tnetz777/Wellsville/Picture100.jpg

The invincible glass. I still can't believe it never popped:
http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t250/tnetz777/Wellsville/Picture098.jpg

Coming out after:
http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t250/tnetz777/Wellsville/Picture099.jpg

Well this trip wasn't nearly as successful as the last one. I broke a shaft when I first got there trying to climb a rock. Really broke it this time :biggrin:. I also broke the steering box completely off at the end of holler trail. Two of the grade-8 bolts snapped and the other took one of the ears off of the PSC box. The "frame" never budged since it is reinforced on both sides so that's a plus. We were able to get two bolts back in so I could limp it home.

The body isn't as bad as I thought. I just need to replace the driver side door and she'll be good as new :)

Good news is the fenders I just put on never budged.

Here's a quick one of the door before we left:

http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t250/tnetz777/Wellsville/Picture119.jpg


I just put the locker in and broke two shats the first two times out. I think it's time for chromos :)

Deadman 94 xj
05-24-2010, 11:17 PM
I found a door in good shape with no rust. Not bad for $15.

I started out grinding all the old paint:
http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t250/tnetz777/Junk/Picture124.jpg

Then my harbor freight grinder put on a firework show inside the case. I'm suprised it died already. My last one lasted for years.
Anyway, I was left using the drill but I got tired of changing batteries so I finished off the rest by hand. That was a lot of fun. Nothing like wet sanding for 3 hrs.
http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t250/tnetz777/Junk/Picture125.jpg

That's where I ended. It's not as clean as I wanted but I sanded it down pretty good, ending at 320 grit. It shouldn't show any blemishes. I got some primer on it so it'll sit for a day or two then I'll try to match the paint. I'm doubtful it'll match up perfectly but I should at least be able to get it close.

I'm not too sure on how to go about a clear coat or even if I should. If anybody has some tips on that feel free to chime in. I may just buff it with rubbing compound after a wet sand and see what it looks like.

jlovbasz3
05-24-2010, 11:36 PM
What type of paint are you planing on using?

Deadman 94 xj
05-24-2010, 11:44 PM
What type of paint are you planing on using?

Krylon rattle can. :biggrin: I'm open to suggestions.

I'm not new to spray painting but I've never really done anything this large. Any tips you guys might have would be great. I know the krylon stuff comes out very thin so I'll have to watch for runs. I'm just not real sure on how it'll all turn out.

jlovbasz3
05-25-2010, 12:00 AM
Nothing wrong with the rattle can and I've head of people clearing over it.If I was going this route I would spray your color coat multiple light coat so you don't get any runs after it sets up then you can color/wet sand then clear it.I don't know about buffing it I'm not saying it can't be done but with spray paint your not going to have a lot of mills (paint wouldn't be as thick as conventional spray) and might burn through it.

Deadman 94 xj
05-25-2010, 12:21 AM
Thanks. Good point on the buffing. It would probably burn through and also fill in the "pores" and end up with white swirls.

I'll give the clear a shot. I guess if I'm careful it should work out ok. Should.

jlovbasz3
05-25-2010, 12:28 AM
It will work, maybe you can get away without color sanding and clearing after the color coat compare it to the rest of the Jeep and see how it turns out.

Meeke
05-25-2010, 07:52 PM
go to a paint shop and get the factory color mixed in a rattle can and see if they can do clear as well. That would match better and probably be cheaper.

ridgerunner97
05-25-2010, 08:23 PM
Valley Auto in Wilmerding can do the paint that is who we had supply us our paint when I was workin on heavy equipment. Quarts, Rattle Can, Gallons etc.

Deadman 94 xj
05-25-2010, 08:27 PM
go to a paint shop and get the factory color mixed in a rattle can and see if they can do clear as well. That would match better and probably be cheaper.

I thought about that but honestly matching up that close really isn't a priority. As long as it shines it should reduce most of the differences, or at least the ones I care about. I found the "correct" color Krylon so I'm hoping for the best. Being color blind isn't exactly encouraging :biggrin:

This is where I ended tonight. I sanded the primer with 800 grit.
http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t250/tnetz777/Junk/Picture126.jpg


I got 4 coats down with 10 mins between coats. You can see it's not the finish I'm looking for here and there are a lot of white cloudy marks from the spray.http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t250/tnetz777/Junk/Picture128.jpg

It should end up being a jeep quality paint job. :biggrin:

ridgerunner97
05-25-2010, 08:33 PM
It should end up being a jeep quality paint job. :biggrin:

Soooo, the clear will start to peel and the color will fade in a few months? LMAO

Deadman 94 xj
05-25-2010, 08:37 PM
Soooo, the clear will start to peel and the color will fade in a few months? LMAO

Yes!

No, there's no clear. I put down VERY light coats so I'll be surprised if it peels. I wonder how it'll hold up to PA pinstriping though lol.

ridgerunner97
05-25-2010, 08:40 PM
haha looks good regardless Tom. What's nice is you tear it up with pinstriping you just wash it scuff it and spray it again haha, I do my sliders every three weeks or so it seems :)

Deadman 94 xj
05-25-2010, 08:47 PM
Actually you bring up a point about the clear. I keep avoiding it because I can't find it in a rattle can for some reason. I may do it because it might help protect the color from fading (makes sense I think) and pinstriping. So I'll sand the color, apply clear, then sand the clear.... I think.

(Edit: no sanding of the color, just sand the clear later on)

ridgerunner97
05-25-2010, 08:57 PM
I didn't think about that, makes sense, i'd clear it I guess, then again, one day my POS will be a flat color of some type for easy touch up haha

jlovbasz3
05-25-2010, 10:21 PM
Just another idea try spraying in a different direction that may take care of some of the cloudiness.

Deadman 94 xj
05-25-2010, 11:31 PM
Just another idea try spraying in a different direction that may take care of some of the cloudiness.

I tried that but still couldn't get it. I searched and I think I came up with what I was doing wrong:




b. Another common defect in spraying is mist or fog. These defects are caused by the following:


(1) Over atomization caused by:
(a) Air pressure too high.
(b) Fluid pressure too low.
(c) Wrong air cap for material used.
(d) Wrong fluid tip for material used.

(2) Improper use of gun caused by:
(a) Incorrect stroking.
(b) Gun too far from surface


I guess in trying to avoid runs, I was holding the can a little too far from the surface. I thought sanding it down would remove the cloudy marks but it looks like I might have to go over it again with color. :(

Deadman 94 xj
05-27-2010, 08:48 PM
Okay, so I went over it again in color. This time I held the can a lot closer (6" instead of ~10) and got good results. You can see it's a lot darker and no more chalky stuff.
http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t250/tnetz777/Junk/Picture135.jpg

...and here it is with a clear coat:

http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t250/tnetz777/Junk/Picture140.jpg

(The line at the bottom is the reflection from the canopy roof)

You can see it shines but it's more of a dull shine. That's what they call "orange peel" because the texture is like that of an orange peel...:104:

So what's next is I'm going to sand down the clear with 600 grit (I really don't want to do this) then I'll lay down a very light coat of what they call a "guide coat" which is nothing more than a powdering of a primer (very light, almost see through). After that sets up I'll sand that down with 1500grit or 2000 grit using the guide coat as a guide to keep from going too deep into the clear. What's left will be a flat looking paint job. Apparently it's supposed to look like it was just sanded. Then, I'm going to buff it which will make it shine like a mirror because it will have removed the orange peel texture.

Wow, that's a mouth full. Next time I'm going to take it to a shop lol.

jlovbasz3
05-27-2010, 10:39 PM
I never heard of anyone putting a guide coat on for clear it is usually done in the prime stage for high and low spots from body filler.I'd say wet sand it with 3000 - 4000 grit to knock down the orange peel then try to hand buff it to bring up the shine.But it looks real good from the pic!

Deadman 94 xj
05-28-2010, 02:42 PM
I never heard of anyone putting a guide coat on for clear it is usually done in the prime stage for high and low spots from body filler.I'd say wet sand it with 3000 - 4000 grit to knock down the orange peel then try to hand buff it to bring up the shine.But it looks real good from the pic!

Thanks! I really appriciate your input. It usually leads me down the right path. I don't recall ever seeing anything over 2000 grit. I can see the point of going higher but honestly everything I've been reading recommends 2000. I'm just a little worried about screwing up the clear coat but we'll see what happens.

I never heard anything about a guide coat either but this is what I read. I just don't really see the point since it's done AFTER the initial 600 grit sanding. I'd think that would go through the clear faster than the 2000.

What's supposed to be done is the sanding gets done at 600 grit. The guide for that is the actual clear coat. If I see shinny spots than those are high spots that still need to be sanded. I guess I just have to be very careful not to go too deep. Then is the guide coat, followed by the 2000.

I will be buffing by hand. I don't know anything about buffing like this really. I guess I'll apply the compound and go to work with a good cloth.

I do enjoy doing this though; even if it is just a door. I can't imagine doing a whole vehicle by hand!

Meeke
05-28-2010, 03:03 PM
Don't lay a guide coat down over the clear. Just wet sand, wet sand, and wet sand. get one of those foam blocks and wrap your sand paper around and keep the surface wet. This will help so you don't clog up your paper. Try a finer grit first, 1000-1500, and see how your clear is holding up to the sanding. There will be a noticeable difference in the high/low spots (shiny vs. not). Take your time and good luck.

Deadman 94 xj
05-28-2010, 03:07 PM
Ok so no guide coat. Do you not recommend the 600 step? The reason I ask is because I think the 600 would be a little too rough but might be necessary to get rit of the peel.

I got the sponge to keep the sand paper even ;)

Meeke
05-28-2010, 03:11 PM
Yeah, I'd skip the 600. It's been quite a few years since I did any finish paint work, but if memory serves, the 600 would bee too aggressive and cut through with relative ease on the ridges/corners. If you try the finer grit and you are putting in a lot of effort for very little return, you could always go rougher. The clear will not fully harden for a few days, so it will still be pretty easy to work with.

Deadman 94 xj
05-28-2010, 03:14 PM
Okay, thanks. I see what you're saying. It's better to start off light than risk screwing it up with the 600. I don't know how long they let the clear cure where I read about the 600. I'd imagine it was longer than what I'm working with.

Dick.Breakey
05-28-2010, 03:26 PM
NO 600!!!! thats just nuts. i grew up in the body shop, and after clear is laid id say 1400 or higher. maybe start with 14 and go in 3 stages to a 2k grit. no need for more than that i think.

Dick.Breakey
05-28-2010, 03:29 PM
but wait, are you going to be wetsanding the WHOLE rig? if not its going to look ridiculous. just keep that in mind. cause factory paint is not wet sanded to get the orange peel out of it.

Deadman 94 xj
05-28-2010, 03:38 PM
but wait, are you going to be wetsanding the WHOLE rig? if not its going to look ridiculous. just keep that in mind. cause factory paint is not wet sanded to get the orange peel out of it.

Thanks for the complement. It's a jeep. It'll be a mess in a couple of months. I'm enjoying the process more than what I care it's going to look like when it's all said and done. And here is where I got the info on 600 grit...expert.

http://www.hotrod.com/techarticles/body/hrdp_0805_color_sanding/index.html

Dick.Breakey
05-28-2010, 04:52 PM
heres why i say no to 600 grit. your not using a traditional spray set up are you? unless i missed something, which is possible, i thought you were rattlecanning it. and i wouldnt think that the thickness of that clear is enough to hold up to 600 grit. im no expert. im just going off of what i learned/remember. use what u want, i just hope it turns out like u wanted.

and i didnt mean to sound like a dick in the last post(as i re-read it it seems what way kinda) i just wasnt dure if you knew or not.

as we all have said. as long as ur happy with it, thats all that matters.

Deadman 94 xj
05-28-2010, 04:59 PM
heres why i say no to 600 grit. your not using a traditional spray set up are you? unless i missed something, which is possible, i thought you were rattlecanning it. and i wouldnt think that the thickness of that clear is enough to hold up to 600 grit. im no expert. im just going off of what i learned/remember. use what u want, i just hope it turns out like u wanted.

and i didnt mean to sound like a dick in the last post(as i re-read it it seems what way kinda) i just wasnt dure if you knew or not.

as we all have said. as long as ur happy with it, thats all that matters.

That makes sense. Thanks. Yes it is a rattle can job. So you're point on it not setting like a traditional spray makes sense. I'm not trying to make it perfect. The whole jeep is dented to hell lol. The ONLY reason I'm replacing the door to begin with is because the other door won't open from being dented in so bad.

What I didn't want was a different color door, or a flat painted door when the rest of the jeep still shines. So I figured I'd start this as a little project for my self and post it up for some good advice...and maybe somebody else likes this stuff.

It's not going to a show-n-shine any time in it's life :biggrin:

Deadman 94 xj
06-08-2010, 10:06 AM
Last little update for a while...

I got the door on. It looks great!

Also put in a Durango steering box. It's from a 99 w/o snow package. I got it for $60 shipped from 51 auto out in Smock PA. You can find them on carpart.com.

Deadman 94 xj
05-03-2014, 11:26 PM
Bumping a 4 yr old thread because I miss it.

XJchris98
05-04-2014, 11:36 PM
Missing the XJ? lol.

2002wranglerX
05-05-2014, 08:08 AM
this is what happens when you take 8 years to finish a build. all the guys you WERE going to wheel with are doing other stuff now lol.

Deadman 94 xj
05-05-2014, 08:59 AM
I had a few too many beers and started missing the XJ...lol

Ryan, you'll be back. Plus all I really wanted to do was sit in it in the garage and go vroom! vroom! How many jeeps have you had since I started the CJ build? lol


I found a couple pics of the XJ on Facebook from the guy I traded it too in illinois:

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-889F8f0UeO4/U2cMtASxYTI/AAAAAAAAAqc/gjcsLqi8UVg/s800/IMG_22738765616576.jpeg

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-EOBRWkOcLls/U2cMrRUMyGI/AAAAAAAAAqU/pOcmTJTkir8/s800/IMG_22743035406105.jpeg

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-wyXszsjD714/U2cMxWpmcBI/AAAAAAAAAqs/YLL_1gZqDFk/s640/IMG_22873048049128.jpeg

2002wranglerX
05-05-2014, 09:23 AM
pffffffffffff you'll wish you had time to sit in it and say vroom

you in a few months.

http://loo.me/wp-content/uploads/2013/08/dryer.jpeg