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View Full Version : ZJ front to rear swap



jlovbasz3
01-05-2009, 04:02 AM
I was thinking about doing a front to rear swap on my zj. It is going to be a trail beater after a drunk took out my quarter panel.I want to do this on the cheep .So i heard some talk of F150 coils for the front any idea of the amount of lift they give?Other than that just going to z bend and sleeve the trac bars, box the control arms [maybe add some length], weld the rear, and cut the fenders.Then there the shocks maybe just some cheep pro comps?And wheel the hell out of it!!!!Any ideas or advice would be helpful.

village_idiot
01-05-2009, 05:15 AM
f150 coils should give around 3 or 4 inch, but they wont really like to flex

gonecheenin
01-05-2009, 09:19 AM
If you can find another set of stock front ZJ springs for dirt cheap, throw these spacers on top of your front springs when you swap fronts into the back & you'll be golden

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Jeep-3-Coil-spacer-lift-Wrangler-TJ-Cherokee-Grand_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trksidZp3286Q2em20Q2el111 6QQitemZ250268924052QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPa rtsQ5fAccessories

You'll also need 3" bump stop spacers if you plan to wheel it or be rough with it on "31-32 tire size's

http://www.rubiconexpress.com/Products.aspx?Cn=349&Pn=1721&XnPath=320,322,349&Vid=523B61523191

Then go to the auto parts, get out their shock catalog, look in the back at the length chart, & buy cheap shocks that are 3"s overall longer then the ones you have now & your done.


If you can't find a set of stock front coils (I do have a set BTW) then spend the $150 & buy BDS/Skyjacker/etc.. front 3" lift coils (NOT Rubicon Express, they will net 4"s of lift) since buying new stock springs AND the spacers I listed would be $120-ish make it silly not to just buy lift coils at that point.

jlovbasz3
01-06-2009, 03:10 PM
I have 2 inch spacers and 31 inch claws on it now, from what I've seen on rocky road the fronts in the rear will give 3.5 inches of lift then with my 2 inch spacers that would give me 5.5 inches maybe?For tires i was looking at 35 or 36's with the fenders cut out.And for axles i was just going to run the stockers for now with the rear welded and the front open until they let go then maybe some 44's from a wagoneer.

SirFuego
01-06-2009, 04:14 PM
If you are thinking of doing 5.5" inches, you will need to definitely do something about the stock control arms, track bars, etc. They will be very likely be too short (possibly giving fitment issues with 31s or 33s, let alone 35s or 36s).

Personally, I would just keep it as is, lock the front and rear, armor it up, and hammer down. Of course, that's just my (read: random guy on the Internet) opinion. If you do the F/R swap, I would just nix the spacers and stay at 3.5", because 5.5" gives you a whole slew of other issues to worry about such as track bars, possibly steering, and possibly drivetrain angle problems.

You mentioned boxing and extending the stock control arms, so it seems that you have already thought of doing something to the stock control arms. I've personally never seen it done (most people just replace them with beefier short arms or go long arms), but I'd be lying if the thought never crossed my mind. After mangling a stock control arm, and seeing the damage it had, I don't know that it'd be worth it, but here are some pics for you to decide:
http://www.wnyoffroad.org/thegallery/data/thumbnails/18/012708_13381.jpg (http://www.wnyoffroad.org/thegallery/details.php?image_id=2281) http://www.wnyoffroad.org/thegallery/data/thumbnails/18/DSC00237.JPG (http://www.wnyoffroad.org/thegallery/details.php?image_id=2282) http://www.wnyoffroad.org/thegallery/data/thumbnails/18/DSC00238.JPG (http://www.wnyoffroad.org/thegallery/details.php?image_id=2283)
http://www.wnyoffroad.org/thegallery/data/thumbnails/18/DSC00239.JPG (http://www.wnyoffroad.org/thegallery/details.php?image_id=2284)http://www.wnyoffroad.org/thegallery/data/thumbnails/18/DSC00240.JPG (http://www.wnyoffroad.org/thegallery/details.php?image_id=2285) http://www.wnyoffroad.org/thegallery/data/thumbnails/18/DSC00241.JPG (http://www.wnyoffroad.org/thegallery/details.php?image_id=2286)

FYI, these trail pics are with a 2" BB, 31s, and no lockers. Since yours is a beater, you'd be shocked at the crap you can take it through in its current form (though keep in mind I had a full array of skids underneath -- because you'll need em if you really start to beat on it):
http://www.wnyoffroad.org/thegallery/data/thumbnails/18/DSC00124.JPG (http://www.wnyoffroad.org/thegallery/details.php?image_id=2049) http://www.wnyoffroad.org/thegallery/data/thumbnails/18/rc4.jpg (http://www.wnyoffroad.org/thegallery/details.php?image_id=1700) http://i137.photobucket.com/albums/q220/hardbodyty/11-24-07%20Ligonier/th_DSCF6974.jpg (http://i137.photobucket.com/albums/q220/hardbodyty/11-24-07%20Ligonier/DSCF6974.jpg)

Click to make the pics bigger.

jlovbasz3
01-07-2009, 03:37 AM
I've noticed that the control arms are thin same thing with frame.That sounds like a good idea stay with what i got and weld the rear and a lock right for the front.But i heard if you break an axel it will take out your locker as well?