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View Full Version : 88 Comanche Truggy 1 Ton Rebuild - "THE MANCHE"



Barillms
02-26-2009, 03:48 AM
Here is the start:
1986 F350 High Pinion Kingpin Dana 60, full rebuild
and bracketing/truss build. Stripped down, all outers brakes/hubs/spindles removed.
The $450 beast:
http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e149/barillms/photo-6.jpg

Damn factory leaf perch is cast into the housing..
remember.. can't weld to cast!! So, there is a challege here.
Only 4" of tube exposed, not much to work with when an entire
bracket needs to go here.
http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e149/barillms/photo-8.jpg

Ballistic 3-in-1 brackets, unwelded mock up:
I love these guys, they make great stuff.
http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e149/barillms/photo-7.jpg

The most important thing when placing your coil brackets is CASTOR ANGLE!
Basically the turning plane of the steering knuckle needs to be level with the ground
or slightly positive. NEVER rotate your pinion UP... because that will throw your
castor into the negative which causes death wobble.
0-2 degrees postivie castor and you're good:
http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e149/barillms/photo-26.jpg

Drivers side bracketry, with "Pumpkin Wing" special mod
I invented. Can't weld to cast... SO, I bolted a 1/4 plate wing
to the pumpkin fin then welded to it:
http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e149/barillms/photo-9.jpg

Ok bitches.. it's truss time! (Cardboard is your friend when fabbing)
For those of you who don't know why a truss is needed... its not for strength.
Its because you can't weld your drivers side UCA mount to the
pumpkin because it will break off. SO, the truss gives you a steel surface
to weld your mounts to. OEM Dana 30 mounts are cast into the housing... when you
do an axle swap you gotta make a truss or some sort.
My design I came up with is a small doube bridge design with a top flat platform
made of 1/4 plate and strong but not heavy as hell.
Template Action:
http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e149/barillms/photo-15.jpg

Back bridge in steel:
http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e149/barillms/photo-11.jpg

Double wing braces with back bridge welded up:
http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e149/barillms/photo-18.jpg

Front and Back bridges ties into coil mount plate, with barely enough room
for the coil to sit:
http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e149/barillms/photo-12.jpg

Added some reinforcement brackets inside the truss body:
http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e149/barillms/photo-13.jpg

Capped It off & cleaned her up a little. There is barely enough coil mount
exposed for the coil to sit on, but it will work. Everything is tied into each other,
the fin wings, the Ballistic Fab 3-in-1 bracket and the the truss all welds to the
axle tube primarily.. and some secondary welds to the cast (which sucks, but they stuck)
http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e149/barillms/photo-14.jpg

Front View:
http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e149/barillms/photo-19.jpg

Now.. the reason for the truss! The OEM and aftermarket arms for the UCAs
all use a FORK at the axle mount. The fork sucks, and the worse part.. is the
OEM UCA axle mount bushings. They wear out, they are pressed in and SUCK
super stinky balls to change. SO, my solution is to use a normal flex joint at the axle
which is common. Is is a mock up, not final placement for my Y link Upper drivers side:
http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e149/barillms/photo-21.jpg

...Thats all the Dana 60 stuff so far.


Out with the OLD Crossmember. This was a stock crossmember, that I cut up
and reinforced and incorporated my Long Arm mounts that I ran for 2 seasons
and it lasted, did not crack bend or break. My friend Qball bought it.
http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e149/barillms/photo-22.jpg


Im really pumped about this... Found this on Pirate4x4.com. It's a high performance
PSC Steering Box that was used, but in great shape... and the best part is it comes tapped
already for hydraulic assist lines!! Along with it... this guy had a full Rock Logic
Hydraulic Ram with all the lines, mounting tabs & hardware NEW in the box
he wanted to get rid of. Brand new. $1300 new, I got it for $425!
PSC Box:
http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e149/barillms/photo-23.jpg
Rock Logic Ram/Lines/Tabs
http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e149/barillms/photo-24.jpg


Oh.. and I got a $180 5" drop pitman that came on the box!
Jackass... didn't take it off. Anyway, I'm using it. My old drop pitman
was only a 3" I think. PRESTO! Some Hammer-finish bronze paint
to match my axle and this PSC box looks new again!
http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e149/barillms/photo-27.jpg


Ballistic Fab's Midwest Control 1.25" heim joints will connect my
Long Arms to my belly pan. These bad boys are $32 a piece, hold 52,000lbs
and use a 1" diameter bolt. beefy? Yes indeed: These are the cheap versions!
The brand name QA1 1.25" Cromoly Heims teflon lined are $78 EACH!! WTF!!
http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e149/barillms/photo-25.jpg


I spotted some things at M&M Hardware and came up with these...
please refer to my full HOW TO write up in the Jeep Tech Section at
www.steelvalley4x4.com (http://www.steelvalley4x4.com)
$25 Adjustable Coil Spring Spacers... man, I'm good. Easy as Pie!
http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e149/barillms/photo-28.jpg


Welded On:
http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e149/barillms/photo-29.jpg


I got bored and wheeled out a 38 TSL to see what the stance may look like.
I put some $60 XJ fenders on it, it looks better... but just wait til she's done!
My goal is Memorial Day weekend at Wellsville to show her off! Can't wait!
http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e149/barillms/photo-5.jpg


STAY TUNED, MORE TO COME NEXT WEEK!!!
...Pics of my super beef under-belly system next!

dan58
02-26-2009, 09:44 AM
Looks good, but you can weld to cast. Use nickel rod and pre-heat.

mxg342
02-26-2009, 09:57 AM
Looks good, but you can weld to cast. Use nickel rod and pre-heat.


x2. Maybe he didn't find the web page about welding cast yet......:icon_butt:

sb406
02-26-2009, 10:46 AM
Depending what you're doing, you can preheat and MIG too, but Nickel Rod is better. The key is SLOW COOL!

dan58
02-26-2009, 12:14 PM
x2. Maybe he didn't find the web page about welding cast yet......:icon_butt:

Then here it is. Been doing a little research on it myself lately:

http://www.lincolnelectric.com/knowledge/articles/content/castironpreheat.asp


Anyway, what gears, traction device, etc? What are your plans for the rear?

limegreentj
02-26-2009, 02:13 PM
yes you can weld cast but...its a pain in the balls. practice on junk first DEFINITELY

toocheaptosmoke
02-26-2009, 03:01 PM
That adjustable coil spring spacer is the shiz, I love making parts from plumbing. :biggrin:

tjblair
02-26-2009, 06:37 PM
Looks schweet, I am just starting to work on a 60 for my tj. It doesn't look like it but did you shorten the pasenger side at all? I think I will be copying your work so keep the pix coming. I too am unsure when welding cast so I may do a bolt on truss as well. Unless anyone would like to help me out And weld it for me once I have it mocked up:gear_tounge: well again looking good.

Barillms
02-26-2009, 08:35 PM
Oh.. I did my cast welding reseach.. even spoke to guys about using a certanium rod or something like that.
Basically.. you can, yes. But it's not good, or safe.
My preheating and slow cooling produced some beads that held..
but definately not primarty welds. I would NEVER rely on them
holding for Upper control arms.

If you don't want to do a truss, then a Pass side 3 link is best.
I don't like 3 links, but many people do. I like the Y link radius
arm because you only need 2 arm brackets... and they provide
great flex. Anyway... a truss can be done many ways.. but
everybody does their own thing. Mine worked out, I had some
plans and spent lots of time in Pirate looking. I didn't want
a huge one... so i used 1/4 plate just enough to bridge over top.
It works well... I'm pumped how it turned out.

Im no machinist or master fabricator... I have a grinder
and a 110 Hobart Handler 140. It gets the job done.

I'll post more soon, you guys are going to love my belly
pan design. it's super beef. 42" long arms too! I got the longest
Skyjacker Nitros they make - 34" extended. They're huge.

Thanks for the Coil Spacer compliment, $25 plumming
fixtures... they work well too. I ain't a rich man, I build my shit
the best I can. No bolt on yuppie sheet for me. :066:

Barillms
02-26-2009, 08:46 PM
Looks schweet, I am just starting to work on a 60 for my tj. It doesn't look like it but did you shorten the pasenger side at all? I think I will be copying your work so keep the pix coming. I too am unsure when welding cast so I may do a bolt on truss as well. Unless anyone would like to help me out And weld it for me once I have it mocked up:gear_tounge: well again looking good.

No need to shorten it man... leave it alone.
The key is keeping it wide, but using Hummer H1 beadlocks with
7" backspacing. You only gain about 4-5" overall width over stock axles
with the H1 wheels. They 16.5s, double locks, cheap & sweet.
Plus they make for no bump steer and good scrub radius..
and are practically indestruncable. $75 each is cheap dude.

If you run 15x10 steelies with 3.5" backspacing you'll hate it...
WAY WAY to wide. I'm talking like 85" vs. 78" with H1 wheels.
I think stock with 15x8s is like 74".

Barillms
02-26-2009, 08:51 PM
I need some 1 1/4 or 1 3/8 OD DOM for my tie rod & drag poop.
.25" thick wall beef. Anybody hook me up with some scrap?
3' & 4' pieces

dan58
02-26-2009, 09:49 PM
Anyway, what gears, traction device, etc? What are your plans for the rear?

Miss this one? :022:

tjblair
02-26-2009, 11:03 PM
Thanks for the input I may have more questions for you in the future

Krod
02-27-2009, 12:57 AM
How long do you think those cast spring upper plates will last before they snap?

I'd be more worried about placing a cast part in that type of load than I would be about welding (properly) to a cast housing.

MF Steve!
02-27-2009, 01:22 AM
How long do you think those cast spring upper plates will last before they snap?

I'd be more worried about placing a cast part in that type of load than I would be about welding (properly) to a cast housing.

X2. That's a lot of leverage for a piece shit cast pipe flange...

Barillms
02-28-2009, 09:54 PM
When I hear that loud bang.. I'll let u know.
If that cast ring cracks., the spring will move about 1.5".
Post up some load forces on Rock Krawler coils... And we can find out
Exactly what's gonna win: Flange or coil.

Rear end will be 14 bolt, 4.88s welded
I haven't finished the front yet, the back won't be as hard.
It's gonna have a 112" wheelbase.

80glasscj
03-01-2009, 05:30 PM
No need to shorten it man... leave it alone.
The key is keeping it wide, but using Hummer H1 beadlocks with
7" backspacing. You only gain about 4-5" overall width over stock axles
with the H1 wheels. They 16.5s, double locks, cheap & sweet.
Plus they make for no bump steer and good scrub radius..
and are practically indestruncable. $75 each is cheap dude.

If you run 15x10 steelies with 3.5" backspacing you'll hate it...
WAY WAY to wide. I'm talking like 85" vs. 78" with H1 wheels.
I think stock with 15x8s is like 74".


i love the h1 wheels too but the only part that seems bad is that it leaves the hub out there a little to easy for carnage.

tjblair
03-01-2009, 05:34 PM
i love the h1 wheels too but the only part that seems bad is that it leaves the hub out there a little to easy for carnage.

I agree I plan on running drive slugs. They will still stick out but should take more of a beating than a lockout will

dan58
03-01-2009, 06:25 PM
Even with slugs, they get beat to shit. Even with H2s, they are still exposed.

What locker for the front?

tjblair
03-01-2009, 06:52 PM
Even with slugs, they get beat to shit. Even with H2s, they are still exposed.

What locker for the front?
Oh, I know that they will still stick out and will get beat to shit but a slug will definitly take more of a beating than a lockout will. as far as the locker I dont know yet. Hopfully I can save the money for an ARB just for turning sake. :003:

Barillms
03-27-2009, 05:28 PM
My 60 up front with my new Mile Marker lock outs and H1 beadlocks will definstely stick out, maybe ill take them back and get Drive Flanges?
I am welding my front end due my budget. I recently learned a trick to keep your steering easy when welding the front.. When installing your axle shafts, You must line up both universals the same so the U joints are in the same position and turn together. With PSC Hydro assist and having the U joints in line steering will be fine on dirt. Many west coast guys don't like welding the front because it's hard to steer on rock.. But on slick dirt and mud where we wheel, it's ok to weld the front. There's no way in he'll I'm spending $500 on a locker.. When I can weld it for free.

I located a SRW 14 bolt for $150 for out back.

My front suspension is coming along great. I built a subframe/belly pan skidplate crossmember to strengthen up my MJ chassis and provide a bulletproof mounting location for my new, Xtra long (41") 2x2 square Y Link radius arms. I just finished it up last night. It bolts through the unibody frame rails with grade 8 hardware. Today I am drilling and welding in crush sleeves where the bolts pass through the frane rails. My long arms should be totally done this week, I can't wait to see this new suspension in place. I moved my front axle forward about 5", and moved the long arm mounts back about 3-4", which has allowed my long arm length to go from 34" in my old Y Link set up, Now up to 42" LCAs with my new custom front suspension.

Stat tuned, new crossmember build pics to come soon!!

Deadman 94 xj
03-27-2009, 05:59 PM
Where did you get the steel for the belly? As far as welding to cast, I've read that you have to use nickel. Just get an old frying pan and practice.

Barillms
03-27-2009, 06:39 PM
here is my new belly pan:

I got the steel from Barkhurst Construction in Weirton, WV. They're good.

Getting started:
Two inner 1/4" frame rail huggers are tied together with two main 2x2 crossbraces, the front 2x2 brace shown had to be notched to clear the yoke and for the exhaust to pass through.
http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e149/barillms/photo-31.jpg

Almost done! Minus the transfer case skid plate:
Bottom Shown:
http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e149/barillms/photo-36.jpg

Top Shown:
http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e149/barillms/photo-34.jpg

Last step: I added a cupped, square 1/4" thick skid plate to where the transfer case hangs down on the drivers side between the the main 2x2 rails. I didnt want the skid plate touching the bottom of the case housing because if I hit a rock hard and mash the steel in, i wanted 3/4" of buffer space to keep the case from being damaged. Next came a quick scuffing with sandpaper, a alcohol wipedown and primer. I then finished with 2 good coats of a dark bronze Rustoleum Hammered finish enamel. Lastly I capped the skid plate off with a slick polyethelene plastic skin fastened by two dome-head bolts. Done! Finally. It weighs like 40lbs.. But it's super beefy. I love it.
Top:
http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e149/barillms/photo-40.jpg

Bottom:
http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e149/barillms/photo-41.jpg

Barillms
03-30-2009, 10:49 PM
Here's a pic of the pan in place. It uses two factory MJ stud bolts on each side, and five 1/2" Grade 8 bolts through each frame rail for a grand total of 14 bolts holding this sucker in place. Considering it holds my entire front end in place.. overkill is manditory. Big tabs, big bolts & big heims on 2x2 square arms.

http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e149/barillms/photo-42.jpg

Y Link radius Arms will be done this week. I'm using 1.25" Midwest Control ($30) Chromo heims in back at the crossmember, hard mounted poly bushings at the axle. For the UCAs mounts, 1/4" thick tabs welded to the 2x2 square lowers. The UCAs are 1.5" DOM with 3/4" Cromoly QA1 heims with spacers at the "Y" junction in back and 2.5" Ballistic joints at the front at the axle. I'm hoping to have pics by Sunday!!

Barillms
05-21-2009, 11:41 PM
Here's my latest updates, i'm debating what to do now with my UCAs..
Friday I built & painted my LCAs:
In order for the poly bushings at the axle to be not on a bind, I had to put a slight bend in my LCA design:
LCAs installed, looks like I will probably have some contact with the unibody rail when the suspension compresses. So, I'll probably have to notch & plate the inner corner of the unibody rail. besides that, everything else clears just fine. My CV joint in the driveshaft is kinda close to my crossmember in two places... But I'll be ok.
http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e149/barillms/photo-51.jpg
http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e149/barillms/photo-48.jpg
Plenty beefy, I like Em. You can see the bend here. I slit them, bent them, welded them close then slapped a 3/16" plate on top & bottom of each arm.
http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e149/barillms/photo-49.jpg
Bend Shown:
http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e149/barillms/photo-50.jpg

Barillms
05-21-2009, 11:42 PM
Ok.. I got my top link in place... Still working on the rear mount!
1.5" DOM tube, I used the 27" piece I had. With ends on it.. I got 30" out of it. So, my upper is 77% the length of my lowers.. Which is 39". As short as they'll adjust. I have 9" of vert separation at my axle & about 7" at the back.

UCA finished & painted up:
http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e149/barillms/photo-54.jpg
http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e149/barillms/photo-56.jpg
http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e149/barillms/photo-53.jpg

Barillms
05-21-2009, 11:43 PM
Ok finally got this upper in place to see how she fits & things are looking good. There's plenty of room on the drivers side & it looks great!
Now all I gotta do is fab up the tricky rear upper mount!
All 3 links from the front:
http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e149/barillms/photo-58.jpg
Drivers side madness: Square LCA, Upper & driveshaft. All Clear!
http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e149/barillms/photo-57.jpg
UCA Axle/truss mount Uzi g 3/8" tabs:
http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e149/barillms/photo-59.jpg

Barillms
05-21-2009, 11:46 PM
Ok... here we go.
So basically.. I had to pull out my nice painted crossmember and figure out how the hell I was gonna fit an Upper Link mount on it without interfering with my driveshaft CV joint, shift linkage or the floor.
Well, I had to cut another hole and pound the floor to create some room, but I finally found a place where it will fit. After a few different attempts at getting a good stong location to mount the new bracket and a few bracket designs that cleared and put me at the right angle & location I needed to be at. I know it's not pretty, but it's strong and it clears.

Also, because this NEW bracket (My first idea didn't work out) for my single upper link is back further, I had to rebuild my UCA Link and add 10" to it... by cutting & Slugging the DOM and rewelding it up extending it to 39", almost the same length as my LCAs. But now that my 1.5" DOM single UCA is so much longer, it looks thin. I'll post up some pics later...

Here's some pics of my Crossmember with MY NEW 3 Link UCA mount on it:
http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e149/barillms/Crossmember3Link1.jpg
http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e149/barillms/Crossmember3Link2.jpg
http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e149/barillms/Crossmember3Link3.jpg
I repainted it, I'll take a few more pics when it drys.

Barillms
05-21-2009, 11:47 PM
I still need to buy the 1.5" OD DOM for my steering,
I am using the Chevy style TREs, drilling and retapering the knuckle holes
from the top-down so I can run the tie rod OTK.
http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e149/barillms/IMG_0581.jpg
This week I bought this Trac-Lok Limited Slip 35 spline unit for $140 shipped
from a dude in Charlotte! I gotta look for deals on EVERYTHING because I'm on
a super tight budget, but Im chugging along.
http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e149/barillms/IMG_0582.jpg
Also, these H1 double beadlocks I found for $150 for all 4, shipping was $83 also
from North Carolina... so $233 bucks isn't a bad deal. I'm gonna strip them down to
bare steel & repaint them with some fancy colors... when it's finally time to mount them up.
Oh.. Im also putting a steel solid round bar rock ring.. kinda like the ones Dean puts on using rebar...
except I have smooth 1/2" bar so it won't have the rebar tread marks on it...
http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e149/barillms/IMG_0588.jpg

Peccavi18
05-22-2009, 01:26 AM
The angle of your upper link mount seems to me like it would really be fighting against it's own movement and range of motion. Was there no way to set it horizontal? I am by no means an engineer but I foresee that being a failure point. I like the bend in the lowers, What size box did you go with, I saw your uppers were 1.5 but didn't see mention of the lowers? And as a side note your jack stands being on blocks scares me, especially with them on their sides and the jack stands centered over the the holes.

jeepxj3
05-22-2009, 01:34 AM
The angle of your upper link mount seems to me like it would really be fighting against it's own movement and range of motion. Was there no way to set it horizontal? I am by no means an engineer but I foresee that being a failure point. I like the bend in the lowers, What size box did you go with, I saw your uppers were 1.5 but didn't see mention of the lowers? And as a side note your jack stands being on blocks scares me, especially with them on their sides and the jack stands centered over the the holes.

I agree, that upper link screams binding and failure.

Barillms
05-22-2009, 03:46 AM
Bind? It'a a heim joint with high misalignment spacers. YOu can mount a heim joint any way you want..
it doesn't have to be vertical. Not at all... There is no bind whatsoever.

The Axle end of the upper control arm has 12" of travel at the spring, maybe 8" of travel at the UCA mount. This means the Heim joint in the back of the arm
barly moves, maybe 15 degrees total throughout the entire suspension travel. This heim joint gives over 40" of travel before it binds.... I think 8" will be ok.

The jackstands are on 2x12 pieces of wood, over top of blocks.
The 2" of wood disperses the load out over the entire surface of the blocks.. everyrthing I do is safe and thought out.
Don't worry Ryan.

Barillms
05-22-2009, 03:52 AM
Actually, many many people mount their Upper control arms in a 3 link design in a completely Horizontal way like this... and there is no bind.
Heim joints have a range of motion that isn't restricted no matter how it is mounted,

This is a common:
http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e149/barillms/heimmountonframe.jpg

Barillms
05-22-2009, 03:57 AM
I agree, that upper link screams binding and failure.

Failure? What exactly is going to fail?

twiztidunit
05-22-2009, 01:58 PM
lookin good!!

Barillms
06-16-2009, 11:42 PM
This is HOW I figured out where my Track Bar needed to mounnt on my axle
in order to give me the proper angles.
The White String Represents my Track Bar & Drag link....
so I know EXACTLY WHERE my lower Track Bar mount needs to go:
http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e149/barillms/photo-52.jpg
Here's the Track Bar Axle Bracket finished up, it sits just in front of the base of my
passenger side coil:
http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e149/barillms/IMG_0618.jpg
http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e149/barillms/IMG_0620.jpg

Barillms
06-16-2009, 11:43 PM
I found the proper Reamer from a guy on Pirate 4x4 who posted up a link to a 7/8" Maintenance Reamer on Amazon.com,
this is a MUST to ream out the proper taper for using the Chevy 1 ton style Tie Rod ends. I am going with the INVERTED "T" style Chevy steering set up,
Here is the INVERTED "T" steering I have from Ballistic Fabrication:
http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e149/barillms/InvertedT.jpg
Well, first of all I paid $29 Shipped for this Reamer, and it worked Perfect. Here's some tips I found to help.
First of all, you need a 1/2" Chuck, this thing is pretty big:
http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e149/barillms/IMG_0621.jpg
You ONLY BORE ABOUT 3" deep with the Reamer, Here you see I put a piece of Tape around the Reamer showing How Far Down to go into the knuckle:
http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e149/barillms/IMG_0627.jpg
USE PLENTY OF OIL when doing this... and DO NOT PUSH or TILT the reamer or it will grab and you will break your wrist!!!!
Also, if you go TOO SLOW it grabs... so you must keep a consistent "Medium Pace" and let the drill do the work.
Do a little at a time, the STOP and check the Tie Rod Fitment... clean the shavings off the reamer... Add oil, and keep going a little at a time!!
You don't want a LOOSE FIT, the Tie Rod should NOT slide in the hole all the way... stop early and the NUT PRESS FITsthe taper and pull it together snug creating a very tight fit:
http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e149/barillms/IMG_0626.jpg
Once you Get it right, test fit... the biggest part of the Tie Rod stud should fit inside the reamed hole:
http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e149/barillms/IMG_0635.jpg
Here's an Idea I found online on a site called JCR Offroad,
Here's the Link: http://www.jcroffroad.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=1TNSTBSH&Category_Code=S6
I guess it's a Polyurethane bushing that Replaces the Boot on the Tie Rod,
and I figured I'd make some myself from the ENDS of my Daystar bumpstops...
I sliced off a 3/8" thick ring of the top of the bumpstop & reamed out the hole bigger
to slide over the Tie Rod End stud, you see here the one bumpstop is shorter where I cut it
off with a Sawzall wood blade, then cleaned it up with the bench grinder:
http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e149/barillms/IMG_0631.jpg
Polyurethane Ring installed on my Chevy 1 ton TRE. It keeps the grease in, like a boot,
yet provides a cushion and keeps the Tie Rod from tightening down against the knuckle while leaving some room to flex a little:
http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e149/barillms/IMG_0629.jpg
Easy Process really... the Amazon Reamer is Great for less than $30.
Buy One for sure: You can use this Reamer ON ANY AXLE to bore the tapered knuckle holes large enough to accept the Big TREs.

Barillms
06-16-2009, 11:46 PM
Well, got my steering done yesterday. I went with solid cold rolled 1.5" round bar for the tie rod & had the ends bored for the thread inserts.
I went with 1.25" DOM for the drag link and a spiffy orange paint job.
http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e149/barillms/IMG_0648.jpg
http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e149/barillms/IMG_0647.jpg
Then I got smart and I RETURNED the stupid Mile Marker lock out hubs I bought from Autozone (like those are gonna survive bashing against rocks),
and took the $170 and drove to RockCrusher in Salem, OH and bought these 35 spline Dana 60 Drive Flanges!! NOW THESE babies have a lifetime warranty
and don't stick out as far... plus they will survive ANYTHING. Man... I'm glad I decided do rethink this one.
http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e149/barillms/IMG_0656.jpg
Then, while I was up there... the dude started tossing shit on the table and giving me like rock bottom dealer cost prices,
so I bought this RockCrusher diff cover to and today welded on a bracket for my Hydraulic Ram for my steering. BITCHIN!
http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e149/barillms/IMG_0649.jpg
http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e149/barillms/IMG_0650.jpg
So... yea... I got lots of work to do.
Next step is Clean my axle tubes out... pressure wash them, then take my Dana 60 to have the new Gears & posi installed. I got 5.38s!
While my axle is getting rebuilt and geared... I'll be wire wheeling my Hummer beadlocks, putting a fresh coat of paint on them & then mounting up my tires!!!!!
Yea dog, I see the light at the end of the tunnel... at least for my front end. I should have my front end done by the end of June!

Krod
06-17-2009, 12:23 PM
Failure? What exactly is going to fail?


At least its better than your original upper mount....
http://i271.photobucket.com/albums/jj136/satnav9r20/photo-66.jpg

http://i271.photobucket.com/albums/jj136/satnav9r20/photo-65.jpg

http://i271.photobucket.com/albums/jj136/satnav9r20/photo-67.jpg




Keep tryin! :icon_pidu:

Barillms
06-17-2009, 04:05 PM
No need to keep trying man...
my suspension is finished. Where's your linked Jeep at man? Post some pics of you're work!

Ryan wasnt' talking about the original mount binding and failing,
he was talking about the new UCA mount on my crossmember. And there's no way in hell a 1/2" thick steel bracket,
gusseted and braced will fail... or Bind for that matter.

Krod
06-17-2009, 07:58 PM
No need to keep trying man...
my suspension is finished. Where's your linked Jeep at man? Post some pics of you're work!


Stay tuned! Progress pics coming in my thread :unibrow:

I'm not saying your new upper won't work with the heim set up that way. If you've checked it at full droop/bump and it doesn't bind then you're ok. But your first rendition of the upper mount was scary as ****, so forgive me if I rib you about it. :overkill:


And there's no way in hell a 1/2" thick steel bracket,
gusseted and braced will fail... or Bind for that matter.

Sounds familiar!!! vv



There's no way the entire transmission hump can rip away.. and there's no way the link can stab through the floor & hit my body.... That's all impossible.

mudforblood
06-17-2009, 08:22 PM
/\ lol. Krod, your sig kinda fits right in there too. That is all.:033:

Krod
06-17-2009, 08:25 PM
/\ lol. Krod, your sig kinda fits right in there too. That is all.:033:


The man himself speaks! :033:
Good to see you back around. Never has that quote been so true.

joshs1ofakindxj
06-19-2009, 09:21 AM
This build makes me happy.

Barillms
07-02-2009, 07:46 PM
I got my RockCrusher diff cover painted up and blingin, ready to bolt up:
http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e149/barillms/PaintedDiffcov.jpg
Also, I got this wheel stripped and wire wheeled.. primed and painted. This is the inside, it's a bronze hammerd finish. The outer rings will be powdercoated ORANGE to match my steering.
http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e149/barillms/Paintedwheel.jpg
These are my Rubber run flat beadlock inserts... they were HUGE and the center ridge was unnecessary and
added like 15lbs of weight to each insert. I had the machine shop throw them on the lathe and shave them down to remove
the run flat rib... and the weight. They're true and balanced and much lighter now
http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e149/barillms/cutinsert.jpg
And... the best for last!! I got my HP 60 back from with my limited slip installed with my new 5.38 gears!!!
Man, I'm pumped. Now all I gotta do is finish wire wheeling the axle housing... prime and paint. The Axles are going to be the SAME BRONZE hammered finish
that I painted the inside of the Hummer wheels. Once the axle is painted up, I can install my axle shafts... hubs on and new Drive Flanges!!!! Yes. Almost a FRONT HALF ROLLER!!!!!!!! Then on to the BACK.. the actual truggy-ness begins.
http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e149/barillms/gearsinstalled.jpg
This is the Friction Modifier additive Randy's told me to run... 4oz to the diff for MAX slippage... Less for more lock up. I think I'm gonna run 2oz.
They also said to run a regular oil, never a synthetic or blend because it's TOO slick and the Limited slip's clutches won't grab.
http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e149/barillms/Friction.jpg

Barillms
07-02-2009, 07:47 PM
After getting my axle back from gear install... I finally finished wire wheeling the SOB and got her painted up
and my diff cover installed. I primed and painted it using Rustoleum "Copper" Hammered Finish Paint...
It's time for final assembly of my front end, yee ha!
http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e149/barillms/IMG_0727.jpg
Mounted up my Rock Logic 8" Hydraulic Ram to check for clearance at full lock, it seems to be pretty close...
I added a two tabs to my tie rod that were't shown in the above steering pics:
http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e149/barillms/IMG_0730.jpg
Repainted my links.. and got them installed for the last time for now:
http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e149/barillms/IMG_0742.jpg
Here's some good pics of my 3 Link geometry and clearance:
http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e149/barillms/IMG_0732.jpg
http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e149/barillms/IMG_0746.jpg
http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e149/barillms/IMG_0735.jpg

Barillms
07-02-2009, 07:48 PM
Getting closer to putting my Outers back together after wire wheeling myselft to death to remove all the pitted ass rust from my axle shafts, ears, rotor brackets and hubs... plus rebuilt everything except the King Pins:
Here's my new hubs & rotors.... I had a Dually Ford HP 60 axle.. so I had to buy these seperate and rebuild them:
http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e149/barillms/hubrotor.jpg
These are one of my favorite purchases so far,
my Rock Crusher Drive Slugs, Lifetime Warranty!
http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e149/barillms/IMG_0656.jpg
Got my U joints installed today and shot my axles with some paint to try to slow down the rust at least a little:
http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e149/barillms/photo-74.jpg
I have both types of Spindle Lock Nuts to choose from, the Pin Type and the Cage Type..
I think I'm gonna use the Pin Nuts and LOTS Of Thread Locker!
http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e149/barillms/photo-75.jpg
It's moving along... but I'm running out of things to ebay to fund this build!!!!

Barillms
05-19-2011, 10:25 AM
It's truggy time!

I chopped the frame rails and capped them about 5' behind the cab. I used big 3/8" thick angle iron to do the caps,
and plated the 3rd side with some 1/4" plate. These need to be strong as hell beause these are the "Base" to where my rear
half tube work is going to weld to.

I've also welded in place my Upper Control Arm wishbone mounting brackets on the inside of these caps.
The two caps will be connected with 2x2 square tubing crossmember to help reinforce and strengthen thing even more.
I ran out of welding wire 4 weeks ago and haven't touched anything since. I'm gonna get on the tube work soon, it's a bit intimidating
since this is my first tube build.

http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e149/barillms/photo-76.jpg

http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e149/barillms/photo-77.jpg

http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e149/barillms/photo-79.jpg

Barillms
05-19-2011, 10:27 AM
Some more updates from the past few months...
I got into a golfing kick in August, well, that took over
until it got cold.

Got some progress pics, not much tube work yet... just the base
but I'll keep them coming.

If I can get a tube bender... I'll be moving right along!

Back chassis base:
http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e149/barillms/photo-81.jpg

Removed back wall of cab... so basically all I have thats Jeep from the dash back is the floor:
http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e149/barillms/photo-82.jpg

Didnt' have this in my original plans, BUT... it's gonna work out great because
adding a rocker tube slider gives me more room to weld tube to... plus help
strengthen the overall cab.
http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e149/barillms/photo-83.jpg

MORE TO COME! This is some FUN SHIT!

Barillms
05-19-2011, 10:31 AM
Sliders continue full length of the cab and tie into the rear chassis:
http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e149/barillms/photo-106.jpg

Rear chassis lower braces:
http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e149/barillms/photo-105.jpg

Adding a Big X in the middle
http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e149/barillms/photo-104.jpg
http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e149/barillms/photo-108.jpg

Barillms
05-19-2011, 10:33 AM
I worked on the 14 Bolt a little tonight, stripped
the drums off and pulled the hubs... Next is get it wire wheeled
and cleaned up before the truss & brackets go on:
http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e149/barillms/photo-111.jpg

Also, got the rear suspension cross member bolted in place
and checked my angles to make sure my driveshaft is gonna
clear... It's lookin good. (Remember it's a unibody MJ here folks)

After Paint:
http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e149/barillms/photo-112.jpg

Bolted in, Upper & lower link brackets with driveshaft hoop:
http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e149/barillms/photo-113.jpg

Lower Link Mount close up:
http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e149/barillms/photo-114.jpg

Barillms
05-19-2011, 10:35 AM
Fabbed my coil mounts this evening...
there will be bracing on top of the "ears" that stick out...
there will be a bumpstop in the coil stud similar to the way
the front coil bumps mount.

http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e149/barillms/photo-115.jpg

http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e149/barillms/photo-116.jpg

Perty weld with the flux core Hobart Handler 140: (crappy iphone pic)
http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e149/barillms/photo-117.jpg

Barillms
05-19-2011, 10:37 AM
Truss is done, ties into the pinion skid plate with
3 bolts, I haven't drilled the holes yet. Truss is 3/8,
pinion skid is 1/2". Beefy shit.

Next step is to fab the single 1.25" heim joint mount
on top the truss from 1/4" plate. I have a nice big flat spot
to work with, turned out exactly like I planned.
I put about 15 hours into this sucker so far.

http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e149/barillms/photo-127.jpg
http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e149/barillms/photo-126.jpg

This shows the Lip on the Truss where the Pinion Skid will bolt to:
(I haven't drilled the 3 holes yet)
http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e149/barillms/photo-129.jpg

Also, got my spacers in the mail today!! THANKS MAURICE!!!!!!!!!
(Hummer beadlocks won't work without these bad boys, plus my hubs
won't stick out very far!!
http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e149/barillms/photo-128.jpg

cityslicker
05-19-2011, 10:37 AM
http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e149/barillms/photo-106.jpg

this looks a little flimsy buddy,,, I think you better rethink your design,,, a stiff wind will bend that tin can.

Barillms
05-19-2011, 10:38 AM
I got my 14 Bolt shaved, I didn't do a huge shave... I cut off about 1.25" or so... Lost one bolt hole in the process. It'll help... No way I was leaving that rock anchor stock.

Also got my coil/lca mounts on the axle... And am now building the rear suspension. I went with the Wishbone 3 link, 1.5" DOM upper, and lowers will be 2x2 square like the front.

Trying to figure out... How the he'll am I gonna get this huge upper Wishbone perfect and all 3 pieces on the same plane?
This idea hit me out of the blue... hardware store U Bolts to hold everything in place to a board which made this really easy. Tacked it up, then moved it to the bench for final welding.

http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e149/barillms/photo-137.jpg

http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e149/barillms/photo-136.jpg

Barillms
05-19-2011, 10:39 AM
Ok, here's some updates from the past 2 months...

Rear axle/truss painted, bracketed and installed along with rear wishbone & 2x2 lowers. Wishbone has 1.25" chromoly heim at the truss and 2 poly bushins at the frame. Lowers have 7/8 chromo heims at each end.
http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e149/barillms/photo-152.jpg

Ruff Stuff Pinion Skid modified to tie into truss. 1330 U bolt yoke:
http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e149/barillms/photo-147.jpg
http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e149/barillms/photo-145.jpg

5.38 Thick Yukons installed and set up. Spiders welded:
http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e149/barillms/photo-149.jpg

1975 Chevy K20 front Discs & Calipers with Dorman 301 studs:
http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e149/barillms/photo-151.jpg

39.5 Rockers on H1s:
http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e149/barillms/photo-146.jpg

Barillms
05-19-2011, 10:41 AM
A few roller pics (I think I'm gonna end up cutting out the cage & starting from scratch), it was fine before, it served it's purpose. Now I want to upgrade, and start fresh.
Anyone who wants an In-Cab XJ/MJ cage it's yours for $175 OBO.

http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e149/barillms/photo-154.jpg

http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e149/barillms/photo-155.jpg


What do you guys think on headlight hoops that branch off the stinger?

I'm gonna replace my square lights with round 5" Hellas. I will probably end up taking out the entire blinker/side marker mounting assembly (cause my tires will hit it) and just run the round Hellas by themselves.

Barillms
05-19-2011, 10:43 AM
Ok things were haulted for quite a while, lost job & was out of money... been back to work for 6 months and getting back on track.

JR2 Model 3

http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e149/barillms/photo-93.jpg

Fabbed up this steel stand today, it's 2.5" Square with 1/4" plates top and bottom
to mount the bender to the floor.

http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e149/barillms/photo-92.jpg

Cut out the old cage & I'm starting from scratch with all new tube:
http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e149/barillms/73cdf342.jpg

Spanned across the interior from slider to slider with some internal structure that act as seat mounts too:
http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e149/barillms/83093e64.jpg
http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e149/barillms/e1c6c15b.jpg

Tied into Unibody rails & forward kickers go through floor & tie into sliders/Unibody rails also:
http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e149/barillms/c6cef10f.jpg
http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e149/barillms/b031726f.jpg


Bent .188 wall DOM main hoop, first compound bend with the old JD2:
http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e149/barillms/daa9b29d.jpg

Barillms
05-19-2011, 10:44 AM
These Main tubes are .188 DOM, bracing is .120 HREW....

Installed rear main hoop & triangulation:
http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e149/barillms/505ff662.jpg

Two main Side hoops:
http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e149/barillms/98395e04.jpg

More....
http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e149/barillms/80b24c0f.jpg
http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e149/barillms/2f4fbd1f.jpg

Barillms
05-19-2011, 10:54 AM
Getting started on the back:
http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e149/barillms/64c89916.jpg

A few more roof bars in:
http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e149/barillms/5219568b.jpg

Rear main braces:
http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e149/barillms/4be22979.jpg
http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e149/barillms/6e86eb60.jpg
http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e149/barillms/be19608e.jpg

CESCO
05-19-2011, 11:24 AM
at that height you could clear 54's or larger..

cityslicker
05-19-2011, 11:28 AM
PM sent

Barillms
05-19-2011, 11:41 AM
at that height you could clear 54's or larger..

It has 7.5" of lift on 39.5s. It fits in a standard 7' garage door,
How is that high? It's actually low & stable with the majority of the travel set up as downtravel.

Barillms
06-09-2012, 09:30 PM
http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e149/barillms/7ea71de7.jpg

http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e149/barillms/79cda1fd.jpg

http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e149/barillms/d7cce972.jpg

Barillms
06-09-2012, 09:32 PM
Finally almost there!

111" Wheelbase
25" at the belly with 39.5 Rockers aired up
75" total height


http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e149/barillms/35db1764.jpg
http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e149/barillms/40138bc7.jpg

Final tube welding complete
http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e149/barillms/4d2198ee.jpg

Expanded steel bed floor & some well-used tools :)
http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e149/barillms/d57e3462.jpg

Lexan cab/bed dividers
http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e149/barillms/991d3063.jpg

Tool box & Fuel cell mounted
http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e149/barillms/5d907a2a.jpg

12 Gal Cell mount
http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e149/barillms/8cd1406e.jpg

Box mount detail
http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e149/barillms/97beab49.jpg
http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e149/barillms/6df3b32d.jpg

Barillms
06-09-2012, 09:33 PM
Sheet metal corners where taillights will be mounted
http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e149/barillms/3eb43345.jpg

Hood Vents
http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e149/barillms/f99e7457.jpg

RJS harnesses (seats will be modded to accept the harness)
http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e149/barillms/389fa58d.jpg

Hellas mounted
http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e149/barillms/5f1e8a4e.jpg

I'm going with "Rescue Green", it will go well with the
Copper axles & orange accents
http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e149/barillms/8d9ae9ec.jpg

http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e149/barillms/e69770a3.jpg
http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e149/barillms/4889cf76.jpg

Barillms
06-09-2012, 09:35 PM
It's come a LONG way! So far I'm at approx $8,000 :flipoff2:J
Not bad for the budget...

Original Build: 2007 - 6.5" coils, custom radius arms, Dana 30, SOA rear 8.8, 4.10s, 35" Boggers. S&W Race Cars XJ HREW cage, bobbed bed, 120" wheelbase

http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e149/barillms/summer07040.jpg

More updates to come once she's painted and
buttoned up...

Haha Much better!!
http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e149/barillms/f9482cc9.jpg

RalphDogg
06-09-2012, 09:53 PM
oh yeah! Love the hood, rear corners, and rear tool box

Barillms
06-10-2012, 06:00 PM
On my to-do list... :/

OEM Seat mod how to:
http://jeeptalk.net/index.php?showtopic=2823&hl=

Sourced some inexpensive seat grommets,
Thanks to frostytj on Pirate for the help:

($5.70 each) Sparco Motorsports: Plastic Seat Grommets: Part #01057KIT555NR
1-800-244-RACE

Can be used for high back OEM seats to add 4 point shoulder harnesses or 5/6 point anti-sub center straps thru the seat base.

http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e149/barillms/ba18ba07.jpg

XJ_Sean
06-29-2012, 07:47 AM
Looks Awesome Dude, Love the rear set up

Do you still have that old cage? if so im definitely interested.

Barillms
07-01-2012, 05:19 PM
Actually, the old cage sold kinda fast. Last year a guy from Youngstown scooped it up...
I sold him the cage & my old 6.5" coils for $200.

Sorry bud

Barillms
07-01-2012, 05:31 PM
Well... Ive got my new RC-4630XD Extreme Duty K&N filter and my Flowkooler water pump in. I'm waiting on my 180 Robert Shaw therm and my Sparco seat grommets from Sussquehanna Motorsports.

I will be bed linering the dash & the floor, along with the mini-bed expanded steel floor section. I
am debating whether to go Black Hurcliner for $90 or pay $120 + shipping to do Duraback in their TAN color. I'll prob go with the colored bed liner to be honest.

I went to NAPA, Rescue Green is $550 a gallon!!! I almost popped a turd out.
Soooo, Bright Cactus Green Metallic is $150 for 3 quarts, and as far I'm concerned will get the job done.

http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e149/barillms/9765461e.jpg

Barillms
07-03-2012, 04:23 PM
Ohh yeah... This is going to be fun dremeling a 2x3" rectangle through the seat backing plate:
Sure beats spending $600 on new seats!!


http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e149/barillms/258d48d7.jpg

These Rugged Ridge seat covers look handy... Lots of storage on the back...
Plus theyre on Clearance for $25 at JC Whitney:
http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e149/barillms/18dc6b99.jpg

This SAND colored Durabak is gonna cover the floor & dash:
http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e149/barillms/058f6cb0.jpg

Azzy
07-03-2012, 04:38 PM
Very nice!

Somehow stingers with those big round trail lights make the front beg for some teeth or something...

Barillms
07-03-2012, 04:58 PM
Very nice!

Somehow stingers with those big round trail lights make the front beg for some teeth or something...

Haha I think I'll stay away from the cheese-ball additions, lmao ... Im trying to keep things semi-professional looking here ;)

D.I.L.L.I.G.A.F
07-03-2012, 04:59 PM
i think you should get rid of the logans metals bumper and go with something more along the lines of an or-fab bumper! would look real good

Barillms
07-03-2012, 10:52 PM
It's on there, and it's welded to the unibody along with the tubing...
It's not going anywhere, I actually like that bumper a lot.

D.I.L.L.I.G.A.F
07-04-2012, 10:42 AM
Don't get mewrong I really like the ligand metals bumper, but and or-fab style bumper would look awesome with all the tube work you got going on. Great build by the way man, really great build!

Barillms
07-04-2012, 07:55 PM
Thanks man

Barillms
07-07-2012, 05:54 PM
4" LEDs - Small addition... but it's progress.
http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e149/barillms/6d08b109.jpg