Adjustable Proportioning Valve

Anyone have experience with these?

I'm looking at this one from Wilwood:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...P4BEHXVH&psc=1

Since swapping in larger 3/4 ton rear drum brakes on my Suburban on the SF14 bolt axle I've done all the bleeding and adjusting properly and made sure the proportioning valve isn't stuck blocking off the rear, but they just don't seem to be giving me enough stopping power. The larger 3/4 ton wheel cylinders aren't that much bigger, so I'm just theorizing that if I can adjust the proportioning valve that could solve my issue. Lot's of guys claim they're running 1 ton axles with a rear disc conversion on the stock 1/2 ton master cylinder set up for disk/drums, so I figured I would give the adjustable proportioning valve a try before upgrading the master cylinder, and at that point probably doing rear disc conversion.

Anyone have experience with these or recommend a different one?

I used a different one on the 4Runner and it worked but I used it to replace the load sensing valve. I would just swap to the 3/4 ton master cylinder. An adjustable proportioning valve is not going to make more fluid move but a bigger bore master cylinder will.

You can probably run a residual pressure valve at the master to make it work with the drums until you are ready to do the rear disks.

I have one on my Nova. Much simpler than that valve though. I've got a disk brake conversion on the front and Ford 9" drum rear. At first the back always had too much and would lock up way early. I added the valve and could tame down the rear. Now they are even and work well. I did run a MC from a disk brake front and drum rear car, but it was still not right. Needed the adjustability for nowhere near stock configuration.

Little more effort but hydroboost would give you unreal braking. Probably pull all the parts you need from the junk yard for a few bucks.

Probably pull em all from Bob's