Is that Clayton's kit (or parts)? Looks a whole lot like his stuff. Can't go wrong with the service or price.
Originally Posted by Krod
Rear 4 link is coming together. I still need to tie the rear truss together and add the bracing to the center crossmembers, and A LOT of final welding...but its finally starting to look like a chassis.
Anyone want to bend some tube? I need coil-over hoops in the near future
All of the links are fabbed with ballistic forged joints and a mix of brackets from them, dan @ ruffstuff, and my own.
Women have clothes and shoes....we get welding and tools!....and the women!
Ah. You just don't see many people running square stuff, and the crossmember reminds me of his. I have Ballistic 2.63s on a UPS truck...somewhere. They're supposed to be delivered on Friday.
I'll take that as a compliment! Clayton's kits are nice and a great value for strength vs. overall cost. The 2x2x0.25 wall square is OVERKILL to the max for uppers, but I only have to carry one spare this way. And the strength is there without the expense of DOM. If it were a racer, I can see why chromo or DOM would be the way to go.
We waited over a month for the orders from Ballistic for mine and Chris' rigs. Several calls, and finally a PM to their sales rep on Pirate got the shit on the truck. No big deal on my parts since this is a long project, but we were trying to get Chris' long arms built on a deadline, and a month is plenty of lead time to get some Joints and adapters out.
Its all quality parts through and through, but there is NO excuse for a company with such large growth to be lacking on things like shipping delays. Its called production management, and it seems they haven't learned the meaning of it.
As always, Dan (ruffstuff) got my shit here next day and correctly on the first call. I just wish they offered a larger line of brackets etc...
Women have clothes and shoes....we get welding and tools!....and the women!
I've heard Ballistic was having trouble keeping up with demand. I ordered when they had the 15% off sale two weeks ago, and they shipped a week later. For some reason, they don't assemble them until they're ordered. Seems odd to me.......
I will probably get my brackets from Poly Perf and RSS. I have RSS's diff covers and can't complain a bit about them. I couldn't damage my square Clayton LA on my TJ, but I'm going bling this time around. Branik sells the 2" 7075 already machined for less than I can buy it in 12' sticks. I'm planning FOA COs in the back too.
I had that motor in the wifes old Park Ave. It was sweet. Nice and fast and godd mileage. The intake has a plastic nipple the will crack over time. It is for the heater hose. Help makes a metal one that is the exact replacement. You might want to do that now.
Gotta be a special place in heaven for those girls who believe in making a lot of guys happy instead of making one miserable
Free Frank!
Sweet.
Branik's links are the definition of bling. And 7075 Al is going to be great on the rocks! Lots of give and plenty strong without the weight!!
I'm also doing the FOA CO's. probably 14"ers F/R. Let me know if you happen to get them before I do, since this will be my first setup and it never hurts to have someone who has set them up before for reference.
Are you talking about the elbow under the blower that makes a 90 to the coolant manifold for the heater hoses? I'll have to check that out when I pull it apart this winter. Thanks for the heads-up!!
This one should be plenty fast. I've got some goodies coming that should bump me to ~ 350 hp/tq and MIGHT consider a medium shot of spray just for shits-n-giggles
Last edited by Krod; 10-22-2009 at 01:02 PM.
Women have clothes and shoes....we get welding and tools!....and the women!
It was under the blower but it was a straight nipple. I cant remember what the hose looked like. But it was the 3/4 or 5/8 size bypass hose.
Gotta be a special place in heaven for those girls who believe in making a lot of guys happy instead of making one miserable
Free Frank!
Nice build!
Any plans for air bumps, limit straps and sway bars?
[URL="http://www.pgh-offroad.com/forum/showthread.php?t=7670"][/URL]
Planning on center limit straps and timbrens on all 4 corners. Air bumps are probably worth it, but I'd like to finish this thing in time to wheel it before Obama makes us give up gasoline.
Women have clothes and shoes....we get welding and tools!....and the women!
Quoted for funny truth!
hahahahahahah
)
_________________________________________________________________________
If you break it, then it needed upgraded anyway!
I ordered some go-fast parts for the engine, and they showed up this week.
Intense Racing s1X Cam
Manley Ti Retainers
Crow Cams 105# valve springs
Intense Racing 3.3" Charger Pulley
ARP head studs
JP Single roller timing set
Various gaskets, breathers, etc for the rebuild
Pacesetter Ceramic coated headers/Y-pipe (already on the engine for mockup)
HP-Tuners VCM suite so I can tune the L67 for those power adders
With all of these parts, I'm hoping to put together a reliable ~350 hp/tq injected engine. Add alchy injection, more boost, or nitrous and I'm sure I can get more into the 400's, but you start to take the reliability out of it (not good for wheeling, but damn fun on the street) Stock bottom end on these engines are good for 600 hp/tq and have cross-bolted mains. Strong little bastards for a granny car engine!
And I finally made sense of the factory engine harness. What a mess, but it cleaned up nicely after I removed a ton of circuits and loom held together by the worlds strongest factory electrical tape known to man
For anyone looking, I was interested in the Painless power-braid loom, rather than the traditional black plastic corrugated loom shit. I found it through McMaster for less than you can get it under the "Power-Braid" label, and its exactly the same.
McMaster-Carr
http://www.mcmaster.com/#1459t15/=4jsvz4
Painless "power-braid"
I did the entire harness using 1/4, 1/2, and 1" sections, using liquid and traditional electrical tape to seal it all up. I'll grab a pic of the completed harness asap.
Last edited by Krod; 11-17-2009 at 10:51 PM.
Women have clothes and shoes....we get welding and tools!....and the women!
I forgot an update for you. I'll be picking up some 2.5" remote reservoir 12s for mine (scored a nice deal on used ones). I plan to run 200/300 front, 200/250 rear springs to start. 10" top, 14" bottom. Have you priced springs? OUCH. I'm also shooting for AS numbers in the 100 range. In talking with some old pros, the rear winch makes anyone's numbers look good though.
In looking at the rear of your frame, you'll need to either notch the frame or lop it off and tube it. Coilovers just don't fit if you don't, unfortunately. I like the Poly/Gen Right if you want to keep the frame. Mine is getting hacked off, then tubed. I have propane tanks in the rear, so I can't get as creative as I'd like to be.
Last edited by dan58; 11-18-2009 at 09:59 AM.
Unbelievable! That is a sick build, someday when i grow up and get a real job i want to be able to do this. Many props to you, it is definetly sweet.
If you look carefully at the pic showing the chassis from the rear, you can see the back 1/4 of the chassis isn't stripped of the original coating. I'm still up in the air how I want to narrow it (or if I want to at all since its in such good shape).I forgot an update for you. I'll be picking up some 2.5" remote reservoir 12s for mine (scored a nice deal on used ones). I plan to run 200/300 front, 200/250 rear springs to start. 10" top, 14" bottom. Have you priced springs? OUCH. I'm also shooting for AS numbers in the 100 range. In talking with some old pros, the rear winch makes anyone's numbers look good though.
In looking at the rear of your frame, you'll need to either notch the frame or lop it off and tube it. Coilovers just don't fit if you don't, unfortunately. I like the Poly/Gen Right if you want to keep the frame. Mine is getting hacked off, then tubed. I have propane tanks in the rear, so I can't get as creative as I'd like to be.
I really like the fabbed rails (ie BTF and Sniper Fab), but refuse to pay that much for some plate with a few bends in it when I have a plasma and access to a brake. I have a few Ideas bouncing around my head, but I'm not able to do anything there until the weather breaks in the springtime...so i'm going to see where it leads once I have the body on the frame, and the coilovers in hand.
If anyone is reading this that has a bender, I still need some coil-over hoops bent up. Nothing crazy, just a few ~180* bends 1.75" OD toob. PM ME!!! I'd rather give my business to someone local rather than some company.
Thanks bud. I'm taking my time to afford/fab the things I want with this build. I'm in no rush, and its feels nice to take your time on a project. Getting married this coming year, so the project will slow down as that approaches.
Women have clothes and shoes....we get welding and tools!....and the women!
Don't be afraid to cut it. Performance first.
Miller talked me into this cut. Simple and effective.
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showt...ly+performance
Don't be afraid to cut it. Performance first.
Miller talked me into this cut. Simple and effective.
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showt...ly+performance
Hell yes! The Miller Motorsports YJ is a sweet rig.
I have no fear of cutting it, but I still have to retain a rear bumper (for driving on the roads). It will probably get cut and narrowed, but in a way I haven't seen done before on a Jeep. Lots of straight cuts I see look pretty hack, and although I personally think the round tubing looks better than rectangle, It won't work for me. As long as I get the clearance I need, and it looks like it belongs there, I'm happy.
Let me know when you get those FOA's. I'm waiting until I can see what clearance I'll have with the body on the frame before I make the decision on travel, but its looking like the 14" 2.0 body emulsions should fit.
Women have clothes and shoes....we get welding and tools!....and the women!
With your tools, just go 3/16" box. Run it right along the square part of the tub like the BTF (holy hell are they expensive for a box). There's just no way to fit even a 2" air shock in there because you need to angle them in to reduce body roll. With a 2.5" CO, I'm happy to leave some sheetmetal. I almost tubed out the whole rear end. It would have been easier and cheaper. I think a square tube back frame looks pretty good, and no one really sees it in all reality.
Erik is a pretty cool dude. He's always willing to lend a hand or give out advice on what he's used. It's scary to think he had a JP Mag cover truck before he was 21. I don't think he's even 25 yet.His new Twisted truck is ungodly hot.
Did you buy an Atlas yet? What adapter are you using to mate an AW4 to the 3.8?
If I remember correctly its a stock isuzu rodeo bellhousing.
BASTARD! lol
My thoughts exactly. $600 for 8 feet of 3/16" plate with a few small angle bends in it is ridiculous. If it were more reasonable, I'd definitely go that route since it gives me everything I want and clearance to spare.
Didn't buy the atlas yet, planning on the 4spd (suspension and crossmembers are built around its dimensions). With the wedding coming up I'm watching what I spend on the Jeep projects until after I'm hitched. I've got enough stuff to keep me busy on this thing until then.
The bellhousing is a factory Isuzu part. Because GM and Isuzu are in bed with each other, the 3.5L v6 in the late model rodeos shares the gm 60 deg pattern with the 3.1, 3.4, and 3.8L Chevy Engines (even though the 3.8L L67 is a 90 deg engine). AND because Aisin Warner made the trans for the rodeo (essentially an AW4), it all bolts together with only a few spacers for the torque converter. I have a PN if you need it. The AW4 has proven itself behind a few turbo 4.0L's and is a variant of the trans in the turbo supra (big power). Lots of good stuff in there, it just hates heat. Keep it cool and you've got a bulletproof trans.
I'm honestly surprised the XJ guys haven't caught on to the GM 3.8L family yet...
Women have clothes and shoes....we get welding and tools!....and the women!
Interesting swap. Who is making a manual control for the AW4? The guy on pbb (IIRC) is done with making them. I'm a fan of the 3.5 shortstar/904/D300. 904s were found behind the 2.8L in XJs, so they aren't all that common. The power/weight is amazing. I'm debating a Gen III/IV swap/Turbo350 for next year. The budget for this year....gone. lol
I'm making the manual control, but not like the tap-shift that Brett's controller was. This will be full manual with compression braking and manual TC lockup. All shifted through an Art-carr. But I'm not letting the details of that idea out of the bag until I prove it out myself.
There is a 700r4 from the 2.8L S-10's that also has the 60 deg pattern, if you can find one. The shortstar has the same patten (60 deg), so you have options other than the 904 if you want the caddy engine.
Women have clothes and shoes....we get welding and tools!....and the women!
The 904 is the ticket....no adapters to run a D300.I'm making the manual control, but not like the tap-shift that Brett's controller was. This will be full manual with compression braking and manual TC lockup. All shifted through an Art-carr. But I'm not letting the details of that idea out of the bag until I prove it out myself.
There is a 700r4 from the 2.8L S-10's that also has the 60 deg pattern, if you can find one. The shortstar has the same patten (60 deg), so you have options other than the 904 if you want the caddy engine.They hold up to 300hp pretty well. The shortstar 3.5 was out of the Aurora. The 4.6 is the granddaddy northstar. Woot.
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