Can someone ID this rear axle? and a gearing question....

[Cebby]

It is in my 2000 4.0 WJ. The choices are D35C or D44A. I've scoured the web and haven't found anything conclusive.



Is there a code somewhere on the vehicle that tells me what it is (and what my gearing is)? I think it's a D35C with 3.55's but I'm not 100% sure.

What is the optimal gearing on this vehicle for 31's and maybe 33's? I only want to regear once. It doesn't need to be a speed merchant, but should have a nice balance of off-road go and decent highway mileage. With the 3.55's it loafs at 70+ now.

[OverkillZJ]

All WJ's (or ZJ's for that matter) with the 4.0 have the 35c with 3.55 gears.

Don't regear a turd, replace! 8.8 is your best / cheapest option.

You'll be fine on it for now with up to 31's though. Don't lock that axle or I'll be dragging you off the trail

If you don't already belong to www.nagca.com - register.

Mallcrawlin.com too, but that's kinda the Pirates forum for grand cherokees, newb quesitons are kinda frowned on (though there is a newb tech section...)

[LordAthens]

If it doesn't hit off road, IMO an axle swap is a good bit overkill (notice his screenname )

31's w\ a 4.0 I recommend 4.11's. I get around fine with my 3.73's and 31's, though I'd like to have a little more power at times.

4.56's would be way deep for 31's but a nice fit for 33's.

As for the 35's, typically the biggest problem is snapping axle shafts. Again, if it's not going offroad and it's an open carrier, I forsee no issues. My issues (grenaded spiders once. Took out R&P on another occasion due to the pinion bearing blowing up. Both onroad.) are basically from me driving like a douche bag, not offroading.

[OverkillZJ]

Brandon... You blew up your 35 ON THE STREET. You've only had that thing offroad a few times and you cooked stock gears (Spicer, properly set up) mind you......

You're a TJ guy. ZJ's are a good 1,000 lbs heavier, all the more weight for that teeny lil' axle to push. I have yet to meet ANY ZJ guy who'se regeared a 35, and didn't live to regret it.

8.8 with gears and disc breaks = $500. Can't beat it.

35.... sheesh.....

Then again if he pays me to set it up, I'll do it, but he'll regret it


For real thouh, put the BB on, put the 31's on, enjoy it, then figure out what you want to do. One thing at a time.

[Cebby]

Don't regear a turd, replace! 8.8 is your best / cheapest option.

Remember - I'm a Toyota guy. Is the 8.8 a Chrysler axle? This will never be a hardcore rig (sure, I say that now). If I'm adding beef, I'll go straight to 60's :P

When I do regear, if the diffs are open, gotta take advantage of the opportunity. I wasn't talking about a spool or Detroit - Will an ARB grenade these diffs if used sparingly?

Mallcrawlin.com too, but that's kinda the Pirates forum for grand cherokees, newb quesitons are kinda frowned on (though there is a newb tech section...)

Already on NAGCA. A couple of years ago, the search was useful - now there is so much crap to sift through to find anything of value, I've just about given up.

So Mallcrawlin.com is a GC site? Cool, I'll check it out.

I figured I was safe asking noobie Jeep questions here...

[OverkillZJ]

I'll say it again like I mean it....

NEVER EVER EVER EVER LOCK A DANA 35!


Don't make me bust out the pictures of people who snapped 35 shafts and had their tire roll away (c-clipped POS)

8.8 is a ford, out of an exploder

[Cebby]

OK - does the 8.8 have the same gearing options as the D30 up front, or am I scrapping that too?

I've been seeing D44 Axles off of Rubi's on Ebay. Anyone know the difference is WMS between those and the WJ? What about the discs/ABS, etc.?

If I talk too much about this, I might actually build this rig too. NOOOOOOOOOO!

[OverkillZJ]

OK - does the 8.8 have the same gearing options as the D30 up front, or am I scrapping that too?

I've been seeing D44 Axles off of Rubi's on Ebay. Anyone know the difference is WMS between those and the WJ? What about the discs/ABS, etc.?

If I talk too much about this, I might actually build this rig too. NOOOOOOOOOO!

D44 from rubi's / TJ's are the same width as ZJ's. I'm running an HP30 from an XJ up front, and a 44 from a TJ out back (Though I still blew both up this summer)

Anyway, 30 is a fine axle when used properly. Gear options are the same as an 8.8 (within one hundredth, so 4.10's fromt, 4.11's back, you'll never know it...)

WJ ABS can be a problem for an axle upgrade... I've heard of guys using the ABS tone ring from an 8.8, and grinding off every other tooth so it works with the sytem, but I say why bother...

Let me be honest... If you're really considering building it, consider keeping it small (31's) and stock axles, or picking another vehicle

I love WJ's, and ZJ's, but ZJ's are a real PITA to build, WJ's are worse.

[Cebby]

, or picking another vehicle

I love WJ's, and ZJ's, but ZJ's are a real PITA to build, WJ's are worse.

That's why I have the 93 4Runner. I have a solid front axle out of an 85 Toy pickup for a SAS some day (that and dual cases). I just need to get all the stuff I have on the shelf in the rig (OBA, CB, Skids, Land Cruiser Coils, Ball Joint Spacers, Extended Brakelines, Rear Discs, blah, blah, blah)

The WJ will likely remain pavement pounder, but you just never know...

[joe_and_jeep]

Dana 35s suck when they are locked. they couldn't hack 33s. I've seen them self destruct on stock Jeeps on the street.

But... I have seen them live on 36s I guess if all the bigger its gonna be is 31s I would leave it back there.

[pahighlander]

Ok, I'll guess I'll be the devils advocate here ... I ran 33's with 4:10 gearing in a D35 (non cclip) in my XJ (4.0L) with a LockRight and it lived. My YJ (2.5L) now has a D35 (non cclip) with 4:10's, 33's and a LockRight and is holding up fine. I'm normally gentle on the throttle except for mud so that may explain the lack of breakage thus far. I don't plan to regear these axles though ... that would be a waste of money ... planning on Grand Waggy D44's and probably 5:13 gearing when money and time allow.

[OverkillZJ]

That picture sums up my thoughts on that axle quite nicely!


31's unlocked, its a good axle.

Bigger and locked, start thinking, or praying

[OverkillZJ]

Ok, I'll guess I'll be the devils advocate here ... I ran 33's with 4:10 gearing in a D35 (non cclip) in my XJ (4.0L) with a LockRight and it lived. My YJ (2.5L) now has a D35 (non cclip) with 4:10's, 33's and a LockRight and is holding up fine. I'm normally gentle on the throttle except for mud so that may explain the lack of breakage thus far. I don't plan to regear these axles though ... that would be a waste of money ... planning on Grand Waggy D44's and probably 5:13 gearing when money and time allow.

I know I know, manyh people have gotten away with it, many havent. I just hate seeing people throw good money into an axle and regretting it later, happens to often.

[Cebby]

This notion of using an 8.8 had me intrigued, so I was doing some research. While this works on ZJ's with their 5 on 4.5 bolt pattern, the 5 on 5 pattern of the WJ makes it a no-go.

[OverkillZJ]

This notion of using an 8.8 had me intrigued, so I was doing some research. While this works on ZJ's with their 5 on 4.5 bolt pattern, the 5 on 5 pattern of the WJ makes it a no-go.

Forgot about that, but doesn't make it a no go; there are both wheel adapters and aftermarket shafts, and people have been known to run wo bolt patterns on one rig.

Like I said, I wouldn't build a WJ big.

[psychobilly]

...you want the truth.....you cant handle the truth...

If I'm adding beef, I'll go straight to 60's

...the ford 8.8 is stronger than the 30 spline dana 60 rear, as per actual destructive testing.

Dana 35s suck when they are locked. they couldn't hack 33s. I've seen them self destruct on stock Jeeps on the street.

But... I have seen them live on 36s

There IS a difference from the non c-clip to the c-clip version of the dana 35c (both are stamped 35c the "c" dont mean c-clip). The non c-clip is far superior and if the housing is gusseted it will survive fairly well with 35's, now its not industructable by any means it aint anything like the c-clip p.o.s. The c-clip 35's are TURDS, throw them away but the non c-clips actually take a pretty decent beating. There is no excuse for having a c clip dana 35 on the trail in my opinion, chuck it and replace it with a non c-clip version if nothing else.

Gear options are the same as an 8.8 (within one hundredth, so 4.10's fromt, 4.11's back, you'll never know it...)

That is actually "proper" gear stagering. No vehicle should of ever came from the factory with 4.11's in both the front and rear, it will always be stagered. there were 4.09's 4.10's and 4.11's. The front is always geared a lil higher

[OverkillZJ]

...you want the truth.....you cant handle the truth...
...the ford 8.8 is stronger than the 30 spline dana 60 rear, as per actual destructive testing.

That is actually "proper" gear stagering. No vehicle should of ever came from the factory with 4.11's in both the front and rear, it will always be stagered. there were 4.09's 4.10's and 4.11's. The front is always geared a lil higher

8.8, c-clipped stronger than a 60? Sorry, I'm not even gonna give that 30 seconds to try and find your information, but that's not really the point of the thread anyway. Well 30 spline..... maybe. But which 8.8 are you comparing to, there's 2 spline counts there as well. Apples and oranges, confusing.

Gear staggering? Um... Right, so my vehicle is incorrect since it origionally shipped with 3.73's? My brothers incorrect with 3.07 and my dads is incorrect with 3.55, all front and rear?

Sorry, never heard of gear staggering...

Not trying to start a flame war, but the origional point of this discussion (or sidewalk of?) was "should he put money into a 35 c clipped" - i think we'd both agree that money could be better spent...

[psychobilly]

newbie.... not trying to start a "flame war" either seriusly, just pointing out some facts
proper gear stagering..
3.07 and 3.08's
3.54's and 3.55's
3.72 and 3.73


Rear dana 60's only have a reputation for strength in the 35 spline variety or amoung people who simply dont know any better. Anyone who's wheeled a normal common 30 spline 60 will tell you too its true cuz they break the shafts often. The 60 rear is the second most common rear axle break I see on the trail (I wheel with a lot of guys on 60's). The 31 spline 8.8 (dont be thinkin about the 28 spline...turds, even though I bet there close to the 60 in strength) IS stronger than the common 30 spline 60 according to actual destructive testing data....search it. Its stronger by a good bit too not just a lil. I believe it was warn that did the testing. There is more to it all than the spline count too by the way, pull out a 60 shaft and have a look for yourself, a dana 35 looks almost as beefy, the only thing that helps the 60 is that its a full floater, 30 spline 60's are not all there cracked up to be, its actually just an over built center and turdly shafts, and an axle is only as strong as its weakest link. Wanna bet a buck on it?

[psychobilly]

oh and yes, money is better spent if its not spent on a c-clip dana 35 no doubt, we do agree there.

[OverkillZJ]

Ok, I thought you were comparing a 35 spline 60 to a 31 (BLAH ON THE 27!) spline 8.8

I forgot about the turd version of the 60


Educate me, or link, what's the purpose of gear staggering, and what vehicles (if ya know) was it done on? I get curious when I come to the drastic realization that I might not know everything...

[psychobilly]

Yeah the turd version is the one you see on the trail too, the 35 spline is ultra rare and to upgrade is costly, you just dont see many "good" rear 60's and for that reason it isnt really all its cracked up to be. Its not bad by any means, there is beef there but not an end all to rear axle failure. The gear thing should be like that in almost every stock 4wd, the aftermarket aint up on it for some reason, probably cuz it really dont make a difference. I never looked into why, the best I can figure is that with the same tires front and rear running the appropriate pressure they will be smaller on the front due to the extra weight they carry and that ever slight change is to offset it. Again, it dont really make a difference but the factory sets em up that way. Any gear change I've done (about a dozen) was the same, chevy, jeep, ford, dodge. There well could be some on the road that are the same front and rear since it makes no real difference that I can figure but I personally have never seen it.

[OverkillZJ]

Interesting. Of all the Jeeps I've worked with, I can assure you none have had staggered gears.. not one! Maybe it's a toyota thing!?


14 bolt > 60

[Bill]

Rubi =

4.10 and 4.11s

[OverkillZJ]

Rubi =

4.10 and 4.11s

GOD DAMNIT

Weird. Definately not on ZJ/WJ/XJ I'm stuck under too often...

Alright, I need to go stick my foot in my mouth now.

[LordAthens]

FWIW, my TJ has 3.73's front AND rear