http://http://www.ruggedridgesales.c...it-PRD234.aspx
this seems like a really good deal.
anyone have any expeiriece with this product? or anyone heard anything about it?
http://http://www.ruggedridgesales.c...it-PRD234.aspx
this seems like a really good deal.
anyone have any expeiriece with this product? or anyone heard anything about it?
[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]
"It really is sad that stupidity isn't as painful for the stupid as it is for those forced to witness it!"
sorry you have to input the vehicle make n at to get to this......
thats the product i'm lookin at.
[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]
"It really is sad that stupidity isn't as painful for the stupid as it is for those forced to witness it!"
I have this on my jeep and i like it for the price could be better could be worse
99'tj 5'' locked cocked and ready to rock...on 35's---sold
05 rubicon soon to come
[I]You're keyboard must be different from mine... I have [B]F1[/B], [B]F2[/B], etc. I don't see an [B]FU[/B] key...[/I]
We cannot defend freedom abroad by deserting it at home.
Rockkrawler ftw!
2000tj on D60's, custom long arms, 3link front, four link rear both locked with a 231/300 doubler twin sticked, Full Hydro steering, on 38 in boggers
Originally Posted by tjblair
More like FAIL. What version control arms are they on now? 487.23? And yet most everyone else got it right the first time. I've fixed more of their shit than any other brand.
Currie is the beefiest out there
Here ya go.
X Factor Plus Steering Kit
SKU: RKXJXF+STEERING
Suggested Retail: $399.00
Finnally a real solution to the factory inverted Y assembly steering woes! The Rock Krawler X Factor Plus Steering System is the most innovative conversion available. It offers a true independent drag link and tie rod assembly. The new drag link maintains the OEM relationship while the tie rod is flipped on top of the steering knuckle for improved clearance! The new tie rod is made of solid alloy steel and offers a great place to mount your hydro assist if you would like to run one. All hardware connections use rugged 5/8 diameter bolts.
System Benefits:
1) Super strong tie rod and drag link assemblies
2) Simple plug and play installation
3) Indpendent tie rod and drag link - No inverted Y assembly
4) High clearance tie rod
5) Valid for most popular aftermarket lift kits from 4.0 to 6.5 inches
System Includes:
(1) Heavy duty drag link assembly made from solid alloy steel, (1) heavy duty
tie rod assembly made from solid alloy steel, hardware and detailed instructions.
http://www.rockkrawler.com/images/RK...TEERING_03.jpg
2000tj on D60's, custom long arms, 3link front, four link rear both locked with a 231/300 doubler twin sticked, Full Hydro steering, on 38 in boggers
I wasn't talking about their controls arms was I ?
More like FAIL. What version control arms are they on now? 487.23? And yet most everyone else got it right the first time. I've fixed more of their shit than any other brand.
I know quite a few people running their steering and I haven't seen any one hurt their steering yet. The only reason I am not running one is because I plan on doing a one ton swap(when I am done working on the new house lol) and I couldn't see spending the $ on somthing I would have no use for once I do the swap. I ended up just building a beef tierod out of .250 wall Dom.
Last edited by tjblair; 11-28-2009 at 05:57 PM.
2000tj on D60's, custom long arms, 3link front, four link rear both locked with a 231/300 doubler twin sticked, Full Hydro steering, on 38 in boggers
Build your own! Get some 3/4" Heims from ruffstuff. They come with the weld in tube adapters for $35 for the pair. Order some 1 1/2" 1/4" Wall DOM.
I just built one for a freinds cherokee, also built a trac-bar and brackets to go with it.
*THE INFAMOUS MIDGET*
Sold all my lifted shit to fit 3 car seats.....
2004 Trailblazer EXT G86 rear factory LSD, Bilstein struts front with Moog 81114 coils and 2.5" spacers, Moog 81069 coils rear with 2" spacer and searching for shocks.
WTB 33s for 17's
I think their stuff is junk. Period. Simple enough for you this time? Their lifts are a joke when compared to RE and Clayton.
The Currie system has served a helluva lot of us very very well.
Opinions are like... well I guess you know the rest!
Rock Krawler has served me and a ton of other people very very well. I have never broken any of my RK stuff, and I've beat the every living hell out of it for many years! Thats great, you dont like them, have a cookie. I think most of what RE makes is junk, and I've seen a bunch of their stuff break, big deal.
I know a bunch of ppl running the RK steering, and its a VERY good setup. I'd run RK long before I'd buy anything from Rugged Ridge.
Last edited by RalphXJ; 11-28-2009 at 09:59 PM.
Agreed
2000tj on D60's, custom long arms, 3link front, four link rear both locked with a 231/300 doubler twin sticked, Full Hydro steering, on 38 in boggers
<thread hijack>
I've (obviously) had the exact opposite experience as you. RK is the absolute laughing stock in my neck of the woods, and the guys who run it in the comps get schooled by trucks running other mainstream stuff like Clayton. Look it up on the RC website if you'd like proof. If you'd have been on the trail with as much of their broken stuff as me, I'm sure you'd have the same opinion. It's neither here, nor there, as far as the OP cares. <thread hijack over>
FWIW, I wouldn't run anything Rugged Ridge in a place that is actually important (like steering). For little disposable stuff like grab handles, it's fine. For steering, I've personally used the Currie kit for 4 years with no problems at all. Others in my club have run the ORO U-turn successfully as well....but no one ever considered anything by RK.
I agree. My friend has the RK 3-link setup with their steering on it too. He abuses his rig VERY HARD. He jumps it, floors its, and does alot of rock crawling. He has a really heavy foot. It has held up for 2 and half years now. They even lifetime their parts so if you manage to break it they will replace it.
I have the rugged ridge kit on my tj and I hate it. both the tierod and drag link bent in less then a year and the tj is my dd and trail cuttin rig. I was told not to get it but needed a steering set up fast so I got it agains better jugdment. wished I would have just built my own.
Last edited by guy; 11-30-2009 at 01:08 AM.
This thread should be called "let's play who can be more e-hardcore"
Awesome
taking unsafe rigs to a whole other level
Agreed
"fighting on the internet is like the special olympics no matter if you still win your still retarded"
99'tj 5'' locked cocked and ready to rock...on 35's---sold
05 rubicon soon to come
[I]You're keyboard must be different from mine... I have [B]F1[/B], [B]F2[/B], etc. I don't see an [B]FU[/B] key...
We cannot defend freedom abroad by deserting it at home.
Are you really surprised?
I wouldnt run anything Rugged Ridge either. Id build my own or buy one of the more common ones.
You will always find someone that has broken a part and now believes that company is garbage or has had good luck and swears by them. The goal is to find something that doesnt break under normal conditions and doesnt break easily under harder conditions.
Rock Krawler and Rubicon Express are both good companies. Id feel safe with either of those.
Last edited by Mykal; 11-29-2009 at 12:36 PM.
You can build the exact setup i posted for right around $100. Even if you don't have a welder, there are plenty of guys on here that would do it for cheap!
And you know its strong, Its YOUR design. If it breaks its YOUR fault!
Simple.
Nick
*THE INFAMOUS MIDGET*
Sold all my lifted shit to fit 3 car seats.....
2004 Trailblazer EXT G86 rear factory LSD, Bilstein struts front with Moog 81114 coils and 2.5" spacers, Moog 81069 coils rear with 2" spacer and searching for shocks.
WTB 33s for 17's
lol or if it breaks and i welded it its my fault...then i'll get sued...lol
98 xj- project dad's baby hauler-3 inch skyjacker lift 31 inch at's custom bumper
00 xj- opposite sex-j or wife-j
97 tj-summer fun toy. 33's 4 inch lift custom tube fenders, custom armor and stuff.
Originally Posted by [B]dangerranger44[/B]
i know how the thornbirds suck offroad and all that. but they ride good and they make any truck look badass though.
Why? Can't anyone have a decent discussion on what has and has not worked for them? I don't sugar coat things, nor do I expect others to do that either.
I have the rugged ridge.. I have a dead spot in the steering because it rotates when going from left to right and right to left. Other than my wife complaining about that I am ok with it.
Mj- on jack stands
I have, twice, both on ZJ's. I realize the arguments been beaten to death, but the fact is RK has been "redesigned" as a product and a company several times now, and still has too many failures for my liking.
It's steering, stick to a product that doesn't, well, suck!
For what it's worth, the Currie steering is awesome, I ran it for years and utterly abused it, it won't budge, and uses TRE's / inverted Y: no dead spot. If it's a street rig, I'd go that route. I'm sure there's other good options, too, since I was researching years ago.
Last edited by OverkillZJ; 11-30-2009 at 01:18 PM.
did someone on here buy my old currie setup? i can't remember... i thought someone on this board had it...
it was bent too
but that thing was pure beef.
taking unsafe rigs to a whole other level
Ditto
I ran it on my ZJ cause it was cheap & fairly well built (Knowing Rugged Ridge it was probably a ripped off design so you can expect VERY different qualitys in their stuff)
The geometry is far superior to the stupid arse inverted Y stock junk IMHO. I did bend it a bit, but it never bent to the point of fatigue. The dead spot from the tie rod roll was dealt with by cutting some track bar bushings in half & using them as grease "boots"/spacers.
Not fantastic, but for the price not bad (though I hate myself for supporting that overseas rip off company in any way.)
_________________________________________________________________________
If you break it, then it needed upgraded anyway!
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