My plans for the YJ (I want your opinion)

[limegreentj]

not to mention that is one of the worst pics ive ever seen...haha

the highline from this angle looks good...did u do the back yet?

[village_idiot]

nope, i ran out of cut off wheels.

[limegreentj]

sawzall...or a torch if you are good enough

[village_idiot]

dont have a sawzall, mum wont let me buy a torch.

[limegreentj]

i got em here...lol

pay for the gas and if you break em you bought em, or just do it here

[village_idiot]

if i come down there, ima have you patch the frame in 2 places and have you rebuild the fuel tank crossmember

[limegreentj]

got any pics or any idea where the frame needs fixed??? or where anything needs fixed for that matter? haha

[village_idiot]

behind driver's side rear leaf spring mount, about the size of a half dollar


driver's side rear bump stop


and i need a hole new fuel tank crossmember.

[john00TJ]

Nice frame ..i think i would have started working on that before i highline my fenders ..but hey atleast you can fit 33s now ..

[limegreentj]

holy balls man! you gotta get that fixed pretty soon!!!

[village_idiot]

holy balls man! you gotta get that fixed pretty soon!!!

how much would u charge me to fix that?

[john00TJ]

how much does a frame cost ??

[village_idiot]

more than i have

[limegreentj]

i dunno man...i'd have to really see it...and figure out what exactly needs done

[john00TJ]

your supposed to look under shit before you buy it ..thats right by the fuel line and everything ..ugghhhhhhh

[limegreentj]

exactly! thats gonna be a pain in the nards man...i dunno if id even be able to get my lead in there to fix it...without doing a ton more shit. and not to mention...you better HOPE that your yj doesnt leak fuel at all...lol

[john00TJ]

your dropping the tank and getting the fuel lines outta the way before you even start the repair ..can you say headache

[village_idiot]

you better HOPE that your yj doesnt leak fuel at all...lol

nope, no fuel leaks, the output seal on the t-case likes to leak though

[2002wranglerX]

nope, no fuel leaks, the output seal on the t-case likes to leak though

That's pretty normal lol

Why are you bothering to swap a tranny into it? Itl be fine as is.

Plus the input on your 231 is wrong for either trans you just mentioned.

[limegreentj]

yeah id maybe consider doing it if you towed it down here with the tank and shit already out of it...but im not gonna get into droppin a tank and stuff

[2002wranglerX]

Gibson, you could pm justinsbig, he's not far from butler, like 15 mins and he does frame repair and he's realllly reasonable.... I'm sure limegreen could do it but leechburg is a haul (not trying to take $ outa your hand man, sorry if I'm stepping on toes)

[village_idiot]

ill give him a holler then.

[pittim]

my jeeps probably dirtier than yours right now....grinding dust and garage dust all over it, and i pulled it out in the rain the other day to weld somethin for kevin, so it turned to mud...lol

what grinding dust?!


Gibson, fix the ****ing thing first. You'd hate to dump a lot of money into (unnecessary) shit and ignore things that would make you lose your entire jeep.

Also, I thought Jeeps were supposed to be pretty good offroad stock (well, compared to other stock 4wd's.) I know my yota is pretty capable for a stock vehicle, and it's even IFS :p

[guy]

Forget mods until you have the frame 100% solid.

After the frame/body is solid, make sure its running reliably. Fix ANYTHING that is rusted out or beat, and make it RELIABLE. All the mods in the world wont get you off a trail if something like a brake or fuel line lets go say 5 miles into the west property of RC....ask me how I know

The 2.5L is a reliable engine if you keep up with maintenance. YJ's are cheap and simple to work on, so learn EVERYTHING you can so when it breaks, you know how to fix it in a pinch.

Invest in tools rather than mods right now until you get it 100%. They'll pay for themselves later when you need to fix something, or want to add lift or just do general maintenance.

Forget lockers, lift, tires, wheeling in general until you get it running to the point where you'd be willing to drive it across the state and back by yourself. You'll find not being the trail plug on every run will be worth the few months of work once you do make it out to wheel. And not fixing stuff that you KNEW was wrong, but now is still wrong AND now covered in mud will make you thankful.

That is some good advice, I'd take that to hart. You got the right mind set asking peoples help to build it right the first time and not wast money. You just have to listen to them, see what worked for them, what didn't, see how they wheel (what trails and how hard the run their rig)and take all that info in then put it to yours for how you want to run your rig. Run the thing stock have fun with it get it stuck make it up a harder trail open open with out breaking and if you don't make it take a strap theres no shame, thats all part of the fun. get your time in and learn to read the trail for the best line.

If you have to do some mods after you get it 100% reliable. I would do a winch because you can take it off and put it on any rig you own, you can winch your self up or off something instead of beating it till somthing breaks and a good set of mt tires then wheel it for a few years. jmo

[gonecheenin]

Fix the frame first (Assuming you have some what good metal above, in front, & behind that (And you should judging from the VERY rusted YJ frame I fixed under my big red YJ) it shouldn't be too bad to repair that with some 3/16 - and those fuel lines will move enough once pulled from the clips that you can hold them in the center of the chassis with a welding blanket while its being fixed)


Then IMHO (And I've had a couple YJ's) in THIS order;


Cut off F&R trac bars (I suggest removing brackets from frame & axle via a sawzall) & whip them over hill like your throwing a pc of dynamite equip with a short fuse ($5 for a sawzall blade),

Remove nuts from sway bar & drill a 45 deg 3/16 hole through threads so you can slide TSC hitch pins through for cheap disconnects (You can simply discard the whole sway bar once you have lift springs) to make disconnects ($1.80 for the snap rings),

1" taller Daystar mounts - NOT pucks or blocks! ($90 new),

31" Re-cap muds ($240 new),

1" JKS motor mount lift kit ($80 new)

Front tow hooks (Free used, $15.99 new)

Go wheel.


Or if you got a little more cash/time;

Cheap 2.5"-ish lift springs WITH MILITARY WRAP! (If you can't get a military wrap, I suggest waiting till you can or else you bend mains. Also, if you go higher than 2.5", it makes rear drive shaft issues a whole nother ball game so I suggest against it for now.) ($2-350 used BUT thats with buying new u-bolts)

4) 3-4" longer cheap parts store shocks (Monroe, etc...have them let you look in back of book for sizes & mounting styles) ($80 new)

Big joint, one pc, front shafts from a TJ/ZJ, XJ etc..... ($50-90 used including new diff seal for holding in gear lube)

Front Aussie/Lock rite for the D30 ($150-ish used)

33's on 4"bs 15x8's

Go wheel.





Then if you get more time/money - Skys the limit, I suggest for a street rig;

Beefier rear axle setup, front & rear lockers, winch, 4.5" RE lift springs, 33-35's, body protection, skid protection, AX15/NV3550, 241OR Rock-trac, CV driveshaft for said t-case, 4.0 or a turbo, hydro assist




Then if you have more money & time then you know what to do with;

3 link the front with an XJ HP30 or 44 or 60

front coilovers,

etc.................

Or you could just go wheel ALOT with the last columns setup!