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Thread: Need some assistance installing Delay Timer

  1. #1
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    Need some assistance installing Delay Timer

    I bought a delay timer from Elk Products that I plan to install on my electric fan so it keeps running a little after shutdown. The problem is I have NO idea how to install it. I'm not real good with wiring up stuff and all the gibberish terminology related to wiring. Does anyone have any experience with something like this and can show me how to install it?

    http://www.elkproducts.com/products/elk-960.htm

    http://www.elkproducts.com/pdf/960-instructions.pdf

    http://www.elkproducts.com/pdf/960_hookups.pdf




    Thanks!

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    PghOffRoad Forum Addict! wozz's Avatar
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    Don't let the smoke out.

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    Quote Originally Posted by wozz View Post
    Don't let the smoke out.
    I'll try to keep it contained.

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    Whats the purpose of having the electric fan run AFTER the motors turned off?




    Not sure what brand they have, but I know Wes(tacokid) and Ty(Hardbodyty) both have electric fan control's on their rigs. Maybe they'll chime in on this

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    Less posting, more wheeling! notmYJ's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by XJchris98 View Post
    Whats the purpose of having the electric fan run AFTER the motors turned off?...
    That was my first thought as well. If the motor is not running, the coolant isnt flowing. So why would you want to cool the coolant in the rad, and besides it would only take a minute, tops, to cool the fluid in the core.

    My opinion is that its just one more thing to worry about, that is no where near water proof. I'd skip it.
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    Quote Originally Posted by XJchris98 View Post
    Whats the purpose of having the electric fan run AFTER the motors turned off?




    Not sure what brand they have, but I know Wes(tacokid) and Ty(Hardbodyty) both have electric fan control's on their rigs. Maybe they'll chime in on this
    Trying to tame my misfire issue. It will misfire after long trips when I restart the motor. If i leave the hood open it will not misfire. I tried a variety of fixes and nothing is helping much so this was my last option. A couple people on naxja did this mod and set it to 60 sec after shut down so it helps get the hot air out from the engine bay.

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    Less posting, more wheeling! joshs1ofakindxj's Avatar
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    Looks like a simple wire set up on that light blue terminal strip.

    Can you scan the instructions and post them?

    You could just have someone call the ELK tech support line for you.
    Fun > rules.

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    Quote Originally Posted by joshs1ofakindxj View Post
    Looks like a simple wire set up on that light blue terminal strip.

    Can you scan the instructions and post them?

    You could just have someone call the ELK tech support line for you.
    The two pdf. links in my original post contain the instructions.

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    I don't know if this applys in this instance, but a few lifetimes ago when I was a mechanic we had a recall on the Ford Escorts for just such a device. The problem was that after ignition off, there is a short period of time when the heat under the hood actually goes up. This was causing the heads to crack.

    I'm not sure I understand the physics... but from what the engineers explained, the closed hood, the cramped conditions around the engine in a front wheel drive vehicle and the cooling system turning off kind of makes a sort of convexing oven for a brief period of time. Keeping the fan on a few extra minutes helps keep this effect to a minimum.
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    I have an adjustable switch on my flexalite setup I got it wired right off my red top. I also have the thermocouple at the top of the rad. So it runs anytime as long as the coolant is over 195. Just my $.02
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    It's not a bad idea at all really. I know a few of my friends that have built their turbo cars have something like this installed to keep everything from overheating after a drive.

    It's the same principal as a turbo timer and I'm sure the wiring isn't much different.
    -Ian-

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    Quote Originally Posted by Leady View Post
    It's not a bad idea at all really. I know a few of my friends that have built their turbo cars have something like this installed to keep everything from overheating after a drive.

    It's the same principal as a turbo timer and I'm sure the wiring isn't much different.

    Doesnt this keep the engine running though? I know the purpose of the turbo timers/etc are to keep the engine running allowing the turbo and everything else to cool more uniformly.




    Once the engines turned off, theres nothing flowing through the radiator (coolant and trans fluid). If I remember correctly, the electric fans on the XJ's are "pullers"...in other words they're pulling the heat out of the radiator. If this is the case, it would just be sucking all that heat INTO the engine bay...thus defeating your purpose.

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    Well turbo timers do keep the motor running after you take the key out to spool down the turbo. But I was saying as far as wiring it'd be similar because the fan would run temporarily after you take the key out. You could look into a reversible fan or just change it to a fan that pushes.

    I was reading on pirate that taurus fans are cheap and really strong. maybe swap it out for a different fan.
    -Ian-

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    why not just install some hood vents with fans under em to suck the air out? remember, hot air rises.
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    That'd be a good idea too I was thinking fans in the wheel wells.
    -Ian-

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    Less posting, more wheeling! notmYJ's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by muddeprived View Post
    Trying to tame my misfire issue. It will misfire after long trips when I restart the motor. If i leave the hood open it will not misfire. I tried a variety of fixes and nothing is helping much so this was my last option. A couple people on naxja did this mod and set it to 60 sec after shut down so it helps get the hot air out from the engine bay.

    What kind of vehicle is this? I would focus on fixing the ignition problem. It seems your treating the symptom, instead of the problem. A few cars back in the early/ mid 90's did run the fans after shut down, mainly early escorts, and tempo/topaz cause they ran with REALLY high temps under the hood from the factory.

    Chances are, if your vehicle is stock (no turbos, super chargers, built motors, crazy headers, etc) it doesnt need anything more than what was from the factory, just needs to be repaired.

    If I am missing a piece of important info, I might change my thinking, but based on what little we know, I have to reccomend, fix the problem, dont treat the symptom. With very little info, It would seem something is suffering from heat soak. I'm guessing coil/ coil pack, ignition module, or plug wires, depending on the vehicle.
    Last edited by notmYJ; 12-28-2009 at 02:37 AM.
    92, 4.0, AW4, SOA, 8.8, D30, 37's, etc etc
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    PghOffRoad Forum Addict! mxg342's Avatar
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    My CJ is set up with a taurus fan on constant power. It runs through a flex-a-lite fan controller from summit. This controller uses a probe between the fins of the radiator for temperature readout.

    I have 12v control power running through a SPDT toggle switch to the controller to a relay. This relay is connected to the low speed fan switch. The fan will continue to cycle once the Jeep is shut off. The taurus fan is set up as a puller fan (between rad and motor) and it pulls through the rad and pushes air over top of the engine and out at the bottoms of the fenders. If the Jeep has been ran alot it will cycle multiple times until the rad temp cools. The fan also creates an air changeout in the engine bay thus reducing temps when the fan is running.

    The SPDT toggle switch also controls the high speed side of the fan as well. I can throw the switch the other direction and it controls directly to a HD relay. This is on as long as the switch is in the high speed position. There is no temperature control in this setup.

    If you look to do this, make sure you have a good battery. In the heat of summer, my CJ may cycle the fan for 10 to 15 minutes.
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    Quote Originally Posted by notmYJ View Post
    What kind of vehicle is this? I would focus on fixing the ignition problem. It seems your treating the symptom, instead of the problem. A few cars back in the early/ mid 90's did run the fans after shut down, mainly early escorts, and tempo/topaz cause they ran with REALLY high temps under the hood from the factory.

    Chances are, if your vehicle is stock (no turbos, super chargers, built motors, crazy headers, etc) it doesnt need anything more than what was from the factory, just needs to be repaired.

    If I am missing a piece of important info, I might change my thinking, but based on what little we know, I have to reccomend, fix the problem, dont treat the symptom. With very little info, It would seem something is suffering from heat soak. I'm guessing coil/ coil pack, ignition module, or plug wires, depending on the vehicle.
    2001 Jeep Cherokee Sport 4.0

    I've been trying to tame this misfire issue for the past two years, replacing stuff randomly. This is a very common issue with the 4.0's, mostly the 00-01 model years. So far i've replaced the plugs with the recommended NGK type, bought a new coil rail, replaced all the injectors, tested the fuel pressure, and did what the TSB's called for. I also wrapped most of the fuel injection system above the exhaust headers with heat shield tape. All this reduced the misfire a little. It will still misfire upon restarting it after a long drive BUT it doesn't throw a code anymore. The misfire isn't as heavy but it's still there. If I prop open the hood with my flashlight then it will not misfire at all. It's starts right up like a brand new car. So basically I need something to flush out the hot air from under the hood. I have hood vents (3" x 14") on it already but that didn't help much. After exhausting all my options I decided to give the fan a try. It's my last possible fix before I go nuts and tear out the stupid motor.....

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    PghOffRoad Forum Addict! mxg342's Avatar
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    What codes are present? It is 43?

    I think this was more prevalent in the 97's but they had a bad batch of valve springs run through the 4.0L. My TJ was almost undriveable when it would misfire. I put in new springs and seals and it was running perfectly again.
    84 CJ7 with some stuff....

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    Quote Originally Posted by mxg342 View Post
    What codes are present? It is 43?

    I think this was more prevalent in the 97's but they had a bad batch of valve springs run through the 4.0L. My TJ was almost undriveable when it would misfire. I put in new springs and seals and it was running perfectly again.
    P0303 is the main code that pops up often. I also get misfire codes from multiple cylinders sometimes.

  21. #21
    XJ on 36s andrew2516's Avatar
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    This heat soak in the 00-01 XJ's is usually caused from the injectors vaporizing fuel due to the heat from the exhaust. Theres a few guys who have used wrap on their intakes. The fan might help but I'm not sure how much air is actually going to get to the header/intake area through the radiator especially if you are replacing your mechanical fan on the passenger side of the vehicle.
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    My 00 has the misfire problem out on the trail when it's kinda just idling around not moving any air. It doesn't seem to hurt throttle response though so I just ignore it. Still planning on getting some hood vents though.
    00 XJ 4.5" lift 32" swampers

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    Quote Originally Posted by Jeepin'Jones View Post
    My 00 has the misfire problem out on the trail when it's kinda just idling around not moving any air. It doesn't seem to hurt throttle response though so I just ignore it. Still planning on getting some hood vents though.
    I can't even go when it misfires. There's no response from the accelerator. I have to wait a minute or two for it to settle down.

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    Wow , Yeah mine isn't that bad just has a rough idle.
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    I'd say beefing up your fan system wouldn't hurt in your situation. It seems that you know what it's doing and what solves the problem, so cooling the engine bay one way or another is the solution. The fan is probably the best place to start.
    -Ian-

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