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Heat the hole freeze the shaft
I've got to get my measurements since its just sitting dead in my driveway for the last week or so...
97 XJ Clayton Longarms 35s locked etc.
94 YJ MTO
98 5.9 ZJ Limited alllll original
02 Cummins 6spd HO Studs, Sticks, Box, Pump...
Who cares about ground clearance, if my D60s scrape I'll just put the skinny pedal down. Isn't that why we build 60s? That 1 inch I lose I'll make up with brute strength and driver ability.
I agree Joe. This is more for fun than anything to make decisions over. To me anyway. I was looking for this to compare my old setup to the new setup and I remembered I posted here.
It would be cool to keep this going.
Heat the hole freeze the shaft
Can I run a 14 bolt on 33's?
That's what I'm saying. If you guys would quit your whining people might actually post specs!
Heat the hole freeze the shaft
My 8.8 limited me on a couple of really rutted up muddy hill climbs when I was on 33's locked F n R. I can't imagine a 14bolt
Acer Offroad A♦A♣A♠A♥
Mine did the same on 35's but I think a lot of that had to do with driver error.
Heat the hole freeze the shaft
I have 9" front and rear with 35s and I am at 11.25". I can't check what the tube measurment is because my brother has my jeep as a loaner.
good info here
The actual measurement is not the whole story - the shape of the contour, weight of the assembly, and and over all foot print of the center section is a huge part of it.
I spent good money to make a smaller diff as strong as a 60 to avoid running a heavy anchor of a stock 1 ton axle - but I'd run Pro-rock CRD 60's without hesitation given the financial ability.
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If you break it, then it needed upgraded anyway!
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