This is the rear section of frame on the drivers side. The hole in the frame is where the fuel tank filler hose used to pass through.
Im planning to throw some box inside the frame rail and plate the outside. Thoughts?
This is the rear section of frame on the drivers side. The hole in the frame is where the fuel tank filler hose used to pass through.
Im planning to throw some box inside the frame rail and plate the outside. Thoughts?
wow man... thats crazy! your idea oughta work well though.
98 xj- project dad's baby hauler-3 inch skyjacker lift 31 inch at's custom bumper
00 xj- opposite sex-j or wife-j
97 tj-summer fun toy. 33's 4 inch lift custom tube fenders, custom armor and stuff.
Originally Posted by [B]dangerranger44[/B]
i know how the thornbirds suck offroad and all that. but they ride good and they make any truck look badass though.
Lets hope so.
Ive already got 2x3 in it from the bumper tie in up to where it cracked. I need to extend that then plate it I think.
time to box it inand bring it to the bumper... i hope you have enough good steel to weld too..
Last edited by tow hook; 05-03-2010 at 12:41 PM. Reason: opps
I'd do it that same way, slip a tube in it and then box it up. Tieing the bumper adds worlds of strength. I have done all of my bumpers that way.
[COLOR=darkred]HighlanderCJ-7[/COLOR]
[COLOR=darkred]If you don't stand behind our troops... [/COLOR]
[COLOR=#8b0000]Feel free to stand in front of them...[/COLOR]
The bumper is already tied into the four factory mounts and the hitch mounts with an insert.
Not mine but this is how I did it. With some added bracing as well.
that shounldnt be to bad to weld up... doesnt look to rusty around the crack
93 Mazda B2600 2.6 5spd, custom o d grean rattle can paint, 20 gal fuel cell in bed, toyota axle swap, rear disc kit, junk 4:10 gears,lincon locked rear, home made revolver shackels,custom steering, custom bumpers, custom rear tire carrier, winch... and lots of trail damage
hmm looks like my laptop screen. Some how I think yours is going to be easier to fix.
I hate to be the one to say it, but all that metal you removed (floors, wheel wells) is structural on the UB. I'll bet that had a LOT to do with that failure.
If I were you, since you seem to have the fab skills, would be to cut it all out and replace that section with some box steel, including the rear cross section. No sense in attempting to weld (or plate) that back together IMO.
Good luck!
Something like this. Pg.5 has a diagram.
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showt...=777044&page=6
Last edited by Deadman 94 xj; 05-05-2010 at 03:37 PM.
Believe me, the replacement floors and tubs are far more structural then they ever were before. One because they are there now, two because they are alot thicker steel then what should have been there before. You could tell that driving it after it was done.
Thats a good plan if I didnt want to keep my back seats and keep it street legal. I have something similar in mind.
I have a plan, but it will be off the road for most of the summer I think.
I think any unibody that's wheeled hard enough will crack eventually, it's just a matter of when and where. On ZJ's that are even moderately wheeled over the years, they'll ALL have cracks at the rear quarters (open the hatch, look between the bumper and the tail light.)
Even rigs that never grew beyond a budget boost, I've seen them crack there. It's wheeling on sheetmetal...
I agree with you if they are not beefed up from the start. I wish I had known then what I know now. I would have done the stiffeners and cage from the very first day. I really believe that would have prevented this.Originally Posted by OverkillZJ
Needless to say the rear stiffeners will be done shortly along with a few other things.
Will ya have ready by the 23rd???
No way, Ill be riding shotgun with the lead. No worries.
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