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Daystar stinger bumps
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Thread: Daystar stinger bumps

  1. #1
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    Daystar stinger bumps

    I don't know If any of yins have seen these before, I just installed a set of them today on a customers vehicle and I was really impressed with the simple design. If you are setting up a suspension with limited up travel you are going to need to upgrade your bump stops. And most of the options I have seen are either poorly designed, or really expensive. These bumps use what they call EVS foam, and by changing the foam blocks you can easily alter the bumps stiffness. Each bump comes with six EVS blocks in two different densities, each bump holds three blocks and you can mix the deferent densities to achieve the stiffness you want. They offer them in a few different lengths. For around $200 a set I think that they are about the most cost effective Heavy duty bump that I have found so far.

    Anyway I just thought that these were worth posting up. If you are looking to upgrade your stock bumps I would definitely look in to these. I think that I will be using at least one set of these on my rig in the near future.
    http://www.daystarweb.com/productdet...productID=1089
    Last edited by tjblair; 09-24-2010 at 08:29 PM.
    2000tj on D60's, custom long arms, 3link front, four link rear both locked with a 231/300 doubler twin sticked, Full Hydro steering, on 38 in boggers

  2. #2
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    ive been looking at these. was thinking about getting a set if i do any rock racing next year. kinda torn though, not sure how theyll hold up to a racing situation.... any insight jeff?
    F T W

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  3. #3
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    I'm no race expert, but Ill tell you what man, they seem pretty tuff. Daystar claims that they will hold up to thousands of cycles. They are much cheaper Than an air bump. And WAY cheaper than a hydro or nitro bump. You can tune them to the stiffness you need really easy. And when they do wear out it would be just as easy to put in new Evs blocks. I can't see that replacement blocks would be that expensive.
    If you are out and about tomorrow Justin stop by the shop I have one there that I haven't installed yet. You can check them out in person before you spend any money. I don't think that they are an item that we will keep in stock only because it's not an item that most people would look to upgrade. But you are welcome to stop by and check them out. You would probably appreciate the vehicle I'm putting them on.(grand cherocow on tons and 42's) Ill be at the shop until 1:00
    Last edited by tjblair; 09-24-2010 at 10:48 PM.
    2000tj on D60's, custom long arms, 3link front, four link rear both locked with a 231/300 doubler twin sticked, Full Hydro steering, on 38 in boggers

  4. #4
    Right Wing Extremist! DMG's Avatar
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    I have been looking at these and it seems that on a trail rig or a street/trail rig they would be fine but on a comp vehicle they might not be enough. That is based purely on conjecture and rumor.

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    There is a lengthy thread on Pirate about these. Last time I read it, it was basically just a lot of speculation and nothing really concrete about their performance. I do remember a bunch of people claiming that they would suck for racing, which made a bunch of people jump on the bandwagon to say that they are useless -- because we know that everyone that wheels anymore needs to have their rig setup with coilovers and air bumps since everyone races now

    How much do they run? I've been thinking about doing something for bumpstops in my upcoming axle swap.

    EDIT: I thought it was longer than 3 pages, but oh well -- here it is: http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=884858
    Last edited by SirFuego; 09-25-2010 at 10:59 AM.
    [URL="http://www.pgh-offroad.com/forum/showthread.php?t=7670"][/URL]

  6. #6
    PghOffRoad Forum Addict! 13below0's Avatar
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    The thread on Pirate has been updated. I guess a team ran them in the baja 1000 with no failures. They say right in the instructions NOT FOR RACE USE, if you care to follow instructions. haha
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  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by SirFuego View Post
    I do remember a bunch of people claiming that they would suck for racing, which made a bunch of people jump on the bandwagon to say that they are useless -- because we know that everyone that wheels anymore needs to have their rig setup with coilovers and air bumps since everyone races now

    http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=884858

    This is why I hate Pirate. I never intended on using them for racing, although I don't see why they wouldn't hold up.
    For the average trail rig I think that they will perform great, and should last a long time. I do not think that they are over priced. $189 is the cheapest that I have seen them. and for that much I don't think that it is worth my time to try to try and make something that would perform the same. they are adjustable enough for me, and I'm not too worried about them "pogo-ing" me on rebound my shock should control that just fine. I also don't think that I will ever compress those 3/4 of the way. I guess if you are that worried about rebound then maybe these are not for you, But for 95 percent of the people out there I think that they are a great option
    2000tj on D60's, custom long arms, 3link front, four link rear both locked with a 231/300 doubler twin sticked, Full Hydro steering, on 38 in boggers

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by tjblair View Post
    This is why I hate Pirate. I never intended on using them for racing, although I don't see why they wouldn't hold up.
    For the average trail rig I think that they will perform great, and should last a long time. I do not think that they are over priced. $189 is the cheapest that I have seen them. and for that much I don't think that it is worth my time to try to try and make something that would perform the same. they are adjustable enough for me, and I'm not too worried about them "pogo-ing" me on rebound my shock should control that just fine. I also don't think that I will ever compress those 3/4 of the way. I guess if you are that worried about rebound then maybe these are not for you, But for 95 percent of the people out there I think that they are a great option
    i agree jeff, sorry for stirring up the shit... i am planning on racing and hold value in your judgement wich is why i asked. 189 is a good price, and i may just give them a shot. they have to be good to take an occasional bump from a hard hit on a trail. theres a lot of folks selling the air/nitro bumps because they bought into the craze and found out theyre unneeded. i am on the fence because i am not positive if i will stick with the racing. id rather not spend a grand on bumps and then find out i am not gonna use them. these may be for me. thanks for the heads up on them and sory i didnt get a chance to swing by today
    F T W

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  9. #9
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    I don't think that you stirred up any shit here. That was all over on pirate.

    I guess you could compare it to tools, I buy snap-on because I use them every day for my job. Where many people who wrench at home for pleasure(ha) or as a hobby buy craftsman, or husky. Maybe if I were wheeling everyday or for a living then I could justify droping the kind of coin you would on higher end bumps. But I think that these will perform and hold up to what I intend on using them for.
    Last edited by tjblair; 09-25-2010 at 09:18 PM.
    2000tj on D60's, custom long arms, 3link front, four link rear both locked with a 231/300 doubler twin sticked, Full Hydro steering, on 38 in boggers

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    As a competitor, I can tell you that these are NOT going to cut it for competition. No way, no how. For trail riding, they are just overpriced for what they do. They are middle of the ground. They don't do anything well enough to spend the money on them. A regular old poly bump will work great for trail riding. These will not cut it for racing. When you can buy a real bump (FOA) for 300 a pair, why go with these?
    Last edited by dan58; 09-26-2010 at 12:22 AM.
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  11. #11
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    Well, The vehicle that I am installing them on only has a bout 3.5" of up travel, and he has already destroyed a set of energy suspension polly bumps. I agree that they are are a middle ground between polly bumps and a nitro\air bump. as far as them being over priced, Eh I guess that is a matter of personal opinion. Almost every item on the market is considered to be overpriced by someone. If you say that they will not "cut it" for racing. Ill take your word for it. But that is not their intended use, By daystar or by me. as far as why not go with a "real bump" I can think of a few reasons. No recharging, no seals to leak, and these can be mounted in any orientation. Like I said before I believe that these will work well for MOST of the trail riding crowd. I still think that I will be giving these a shot.
    2000tj on D60's, custom long arms, 3link front, four link rear both locked with a 231/300 doubler twin sticked, Full Hydro steering, on 38 in boggers

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by tjblair View Post
    This is why I hate Pirate.
    i guess from that thread anybody whose never won the hammers in a mall crawler. i cant stand 9/10 of pirate
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  13. #13
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    I am running Timbrens and they have been great.

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    Quote Originally Posted by dan58 View Post
    As a competitor, I can tell you that these are NOT going to cut it for competition. No way, no how. For trail riding, they are just overpriced for what they do. They are middle of the ground. They don't do anything well enough to spend the money on them. A regular old poly bump will work great for trail riding. These will not cut it for racing. When you can buy a real bump (FOA) for 300 a pair, why go with these?
    I agree with Dan on this one. for about $100 more you can get a better bump stop if you are looking for good bumps. I would think if you where going to limit your up travel to 3" the air bump would be the best way to go. just buy the 3" bumps and set them up. as far as trail riding goes I really don't see the need for either of them. I am running a cheap set of urethane bumps in the front and rear of my junk and they are working fine for what I do. the biggest problem I had was getting them mounted properly so that they would last and not be torn off.

  15. #15
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    How much travel do those Daystar bumps allow for? I know my ZJ is somewhere around 3-4" of uptravel and it was mentioned that a customer's rig was built for 3.5". It seems that you would be riding on these bumps at ride height. Now, the instructions themselves say that the bumpstops are good for about 5000 cycles.

    However, this is a question, because I don't know the answer, but...if you are riding on the bumps at ride height, you are going to be (partially) cycling them in basically every foot you traverse off-road. Even on road, you are partially cycling them every time you hit a bump. Now the question is -- how many cycles, on average, would the bumps see after a single trail ride? What about an hour drive on the beautiful roads PennDot maintains?

    5000 cycles sounds like a lot, but if you are riding on the bumps at ride height, I really don't know if 5000 really is a lot...

    Now take something like a desert rig that has like 8+" of uptravel, you would only be hitting the progressive bumps on harder hits -- which would cycle the bumps less.

    Don't get me wrong -- I love the idea of these, but I'm still undecided on the cost utility. If I find that I need to replace these bumpstops just as frequently as regular poly bumpstops -- is the ride they offer that much better to justify the cost? I really don't know. It's an honest question and I'm not trying to stir up any shit. I'd love to try them, but $180/pair + bump can holders isn't really something I'd be willing spend money on until I hear more about them.

    I'd be very curious for a 6 month update on these bumps. Does the customer's rig get wheeled or driven frequently?
    Last edited by SirFuego; 09-28-2010 at 02:11 PM.
    [URL="http://www.pgh-offroad.com/forum/showthread.php?t=7670"][/URL]

  16. #16
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    unless you only wanted 4" of uptravel, you wouldnt be riding on them constantly. the way i would set them up is figure out where you wanted your axle to stop, and set the bump so that it is fully compressed at that point. you may not be riding on them at all times if you have more than 4" of uptravel
    F T W

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    And this is the beauty of air bumps. You fill them once. You can play with them to adjust how stiff they are just by adding or removing N2. They also come in 2" travel size as well. There is no limit on the number of cycles. They also come with mounting cans.

    If you are having problems with poly or rubber bumps crapping out, then you have mounting problem. It's not the bumpstop's fault.
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    I guess I worded that bad Im trying to get it so that there is 3.5 of up travel before it hits the bump. I am still messing around with these because the boss is out of town and I have been running the store upstairs and wrenching downstairs But I do not intend on riding to bumps all the time. they should have about 4in of travel if they ever compress the whole way. these are really stiff and would take one hell of a hit to compress them the whole way.(not that it couldn't be done) As I said I am still tinkering with them but I may put in the spacer to stop them at 3in travel, depending on how much room I have.
    Last edited by tjblair; 09-28-2010 at 05:28 PM.
    2000tj on D60's, custom long arms, 3link front, four link rear both locked with a 231/300 doubler twin sticked, Full Hydro steering, on 38 in boggers

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    Anything less than 8" of uptravel, you need to limit them to two inches. I had mine at 4, and it is night and day down to 2. FWIW, I have 5" uptravel in front, 6" rear. A rockcrawler shouldn't have nearly that much. Maybe 3 tops from ride height to full compression.
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  20. #20
    Less posting, more wheeling! gonecheenin's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by dan58 View Post
    Maybe 3 tops from ride height to full compression.


    3-4" of up travel has always been the rule of thumb I've used, just enough for a good ride at a vigorous clip or violent hit on an obstical.
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  21. #21
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    Thanks for the advice guys. Hopefully I can get back on it today in between phone calls and customers.
    2000tj on D60's, custom long arms, 3link front, four link rear both locked with a 231/300 doubler twin sticked, Full Hydro steering, on 38 in boggers

  22. #22
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    Here ya go. 37s on stock springs, with a 2" puck in the front. Pure rock crawler. No go fast. 96" WB and crawls anything. I think he is sitting at 2-3" uptravel.

    Something catchy goes here.

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