I have an 02 overland and my front d30 pinion seal is leaking...BAD... Does anyone have any knowledge on changing this seal? Id like to get it fixed but never messed with ring and pinion. Id supply beers and grub if anyone would be willing to help me out. let me know. weekends are best. Thanks.
2002 Overland. Skyjacker bb with Kolak's UC HD springs, Rustys Shocks, RC Disco's and SS. Pro Comp RockCrawler Wheels, 265/75/16 Cooper Discoverer STT's Halfed Bumper painted black with 100w fog lights, HID's. Rola roof rack. Hitch mounted spare tire carrier under construction
zip the nut off, you might need a puller to get the pinion yoke off. but pull that, use a flat screwdriver to get the old seal off, tap new one in, put yoke back on, zip nut down.
Boom done
taking unsafe rigs to a whole other level
Don't over tighten, or you will take out the pinion bearings. D30 uses a crush sleeve.
2000tj on D60's, custom long arms, 3link front, four link rear both locked with a 231/300 doubler twin sticked, Full Hydro steering, on 38 in boggers
dont use a impact to retighten
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I do. I just turn it down and when it zips down and stops you're done. Just don't sit there impacting away lol
taking unsafe rigs to a whole other level
i count the threads before removing the nut then mark the position of the nut to the pinion, zip off the nut, pull seal, replace seal put the nut back to however many threads tight, then tighten the nut a tad more so the lines don't match up. You do more then that you can over tighten the crush sleeve.
i know you CAN crush a crush sleeve with an impact, but whenever i've tried to do it while doing a gear install, my husky impact gun and my 110 psi air compressor wouldn't even get close to crushing it...
That being said, when i did it at jtech with 180 psi and a good IR gun.. no problem...
with my little gun, I just zip it till it stops...
taking unsafe rigs to a whole other level
Thanks for all the input guys. Im willing to attempt cause thats the only way you learn. Id like to have someone there whos done it before too you know..
2002 Overland. Skyjacker bb with Kolak's UC HD springs, Rustys Shocks, RC Disco's and SS. Pro Comp RockCrawler Wheels, 265/75/16 Cooper Discoverer STT's Halfed Bumper painted black with 100w fog lights, HID's. Rola roof rack. Hitch mounted spare tire carrier under construction
I did the "mark the nut" method way back when I was a noob at fixing jeeps. It was for my TJ. I marked the nut and threads, removed nut, replaced seal, re-installed nut to the same spot, and the axle didn't have any leaks or issues the next 3 years....till i bent it. LOL There is a way of getting the torque specs of the nut but I don't feel like digging it up.
well the torq is something like 100-250lbs on the nut but you really have to measure it by rotational torque if you want to get picky.
IIRC its 14-18 inlbs of preload.
Last edited by tjblair; 01-08-2011 at 08:11 AM.
2000tj on D60's, custom long arms, 3link front, four link rear both locked with a 231/300 doubler twin sticked, Full Hydro steering, on 38 in boggers
I've always gunned it on as well, just don't stay on it. Zip it on, locktight the nut (they're designed to be used once and oblong because of this.).
Originally Posted by tjblair
Measure how many inch lbs it take to spin the pinion and re tighten to the same......i think this is how i understood it needed done also
i don't think he's planning on pulling the carrier to measure this though.
taking unsafe rigs to a whole other level
true^
2000tj on D60's, custom long arms, 3link front, four link rear both locked with a 231/300 doubler twin sticked, Full Hydro steering, on 38 in boggers
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