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Thread: Anyone else think this is a bad idea

  1. #1
    Moderator Powerguy37's Avatar
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    Anyone else think this is a bad idea

    I had to swap out the fuel sending unit in the gas tank on the Xterra. Nissan used 6 very small , weak bolts to hold it in place. it bolts to the top of the tank. I broke 3 of the 6 bolts off flush with the top of the tank.

    Of course now it leaks around the seal. The only way to fix it is to try and drill them out. I'm not to keen on drilling on the gas tank. I'm thinking spark, fumes, gas go boom. The area is also very thin. Less than 1/2 inch thick so there's no oops room if I drill to far.

    If I don't do this, I need to buy a used or new tank and replace the damn thing. New is $250+, used $100 give or take plus 4 hours of labor to change the damn thing because the X is a rust bucket.

    So, should I drill or not???
    Never blame the beer. It's only there to lend a hand.

  2. #2
    fill the tank as full as possible use a good cutting lube and you will be fine. I've done it more than once on some dsm's hardest part is replacing the drilled out bolts,I used half circles with welded on bolts of the closest size of the factory to replace them

  3. #3
    Drill.

    Trick I used to gas-weld a neighbors gas tank on his Amc Hornet, yes it works, no I didn't explode.

    1. Empty your gas tank as much as possible.

    2. Find a innertube or other flexible connection to put from your fill neck hole to the exhaust pipe on another vehicle.

    3. Start said vehicle and allow to run until the exhaust fumes are coming out of the sending unit hole (about 5 minutes at idle.) This method replaces all gasoline fumes with Carbon monoxide/dioxide emissions that don't burn. (counting on the providing vehicle not running rich)

    4. Drill away.
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  4. #4
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    Couldn't you just blast Co2 from a power tank into it to accomplish the same thing?
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  5. #5
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    Id run the C02 into it and also, coat that drill bit in grease it will hold any shavings very well.
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  6. #6
    Less posting, more wheeling! notmYJ's Avatar
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    I have used welding gas (75/25) would work too. The goal is to fill the tank with an inert gas so that there is no "boom".
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  7. #7
    Moderator Powerguy37's Avatar
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    Thanks guys for the tips. Its almost full of gas right now so I need to drive it a bit. Should not take long at 12 mpg.
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  8. #8
    PghOffRoad Forum Addict! wozz's Avatar
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    before welding on a tank I would wash it out with water and soap then fill with inert gas.

    Then I would probably try and light it from a safe distance just to be sure. You could use one of those model rocket igniters etc.

  9. #9
    Moderator Powerguy37's Avatar
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    Heedfully no welding is needed. Just need to drill out three bolts that are in less than a 1/4 inch.
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  10. #10
    www.RalphsOffRoad.com RalphDogg's Avatar
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    ... yikes how much is a fuel cell or aftermarket tank? i remember a company made plastic samurai tanks for next to nothing. can you upgrade your tank?

  11. #11
    Moderator Powerguy37's Avatar
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    I did a quick search last night and could not find an aftermarket tank for the X. That was my first thought too, a plastic tank to replace the steel one.
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  12. #12
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    It is surprising to me that nissan used a steel tank in that to begin with!
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  13. #13
    Moderator Powerguy37's Avatar
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    I think in 05 they changed to plastic. This is my second tank. The first one rusted out on the bottom and started leaking.
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  14. #14
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    Could run a few self tappers in there to sure things up instead of drilling. Sure your going to end up with sum shaving in the tank but the sock filter should catch those. If for some reason they get past that your inline fuel filter will get them.
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  15. #15
    Quote Originally Posted by tjblair View Post
    Couldn't you just blast Co2 from a power tank into it to accomplish the same thing?
    Yes, but I did that in 1983 when there were no power tanks. Ha.

    Any Co2 source would work.
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  16. #16
    Moderator Powerguy37's Avatar
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    That's an idea but they would have to be real short. I don't want to punch into the tank and then have it leak from there too. The ones now do not go all the way into the tank.
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  17. #17
    Previously "TurboTJ"
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    I have seen a few people braze a metal tank shut with torch set while in the car by just using the idea of having the tank full.. little ballsey for me.
    It is the gasoline fumes that explode not the fuel.

    What size screw/bolt were they? Can you use a TIMESERT or Heilicoil? or perhaps a nutsert after drilling oversize?


    Cheap and easy.. to reduce the risk of explosion but not eliminate it... fill it full full full and introduce air movement (ventaliation) to not allow fumes to build up.

    Nearly fool proof drop the tank, empty the fuel into an approved contianer using a transfer pump. Fill the tank with either inert gas or water. Yes I said water. Now with water or inert gas being pumped into the tank (via bottle and regulator) will displace any remaining fumes. Drill and torch with realitive ease. If you have the tank out and you finshed the repairs install the sender and test it outside of the vehicle with water for leaks. Disassemble, wipe out with oil absorbant wipes or diapers.. yes diaper but make sure they are clean ones!

    Once mostly dry get a few cans of brake clean and hose everything off with brake clean the ETOH in the brake clean will displace and remove the water. Put on a resporator and glasses blow everything out and then install as usual and change the filter if there is an external one.

  18. #18
    Moderator Powerguy37's Avatar
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    I found a used tank for $75 I'm going to pick up Wednesday. But I think I may try the self tapping screws and just coat them and the hole with some sealant and run them all they way through the tank. If it still leaks, I can just replace it with the sued one.
    Never blame the beer. It's only there to lend a hand.

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