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Thread: Cav with wheel stuck on.....

  1. #1
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    Cav with wheel stuck on.....

    Anyone ever hear of not being able to get a wheel off a chevy cav? My buddy was trying to change his tire last night because it was flat but it is stuck on there and he can't get it off but it still will spin. Any ideas on what might be happening here? My guess is that it somehow rusted on because nothing appears bent. What are your thoughts?

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    Steel wheels? Probably rust. I thnink the tool you need is called a "BFH"
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    Less posting, more wheeling! joshs1ofakindxj's Avatar
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    If it wasn't flat you could do what someone I know did: Loosen the lug nuts a hair and drive around a parking lot till it comes loose.

    Other than that, hammers and pry bars.

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    I had one get stuck on an Olds, big hammer. Make sure the car is supported well your gonna hit it hard.
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    happens a lot...a work most of our trucks are hub centric wheels with aluminum rims on steel hubs. The two different metals cause corrosion that makes the rims stick. Support the vehicle well and then use a large hammer to strike the tire (not the rim). Be careful as there will be some bounce but after a few hits it should shake itself loose.

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    Haha yep corrosion is the culprit.

    About a year and a half ago one of my roommates gets a call from one of his friends that has the same problem. Five minutes later the other roommate and I roll out of a lifted one ton at this kids place. The kid looks like he couldn't lift the 4 way to get the lugs off. My roommate gives the tire a swift kick (damn near knocks the car off the scissor jack) and off it comes. Says: "Welp that outta do ya" and gets back in the truck. Look on the kids face was priceless.

    End of random story

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    PghOffRoad Forum Addict! wozz's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by joshs1ofakindxj View Post
    If it wasn't flat you could do what someone I know did: Loosen the lug nuts a hair and drive around a parking lot till it comes loose.

    Other than that, hammers and pry bars.
    Meh its only flat on the bottom

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    Smart phone, dumb Wrecker! Wrecker's Avatar
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    A kick. A long board against the back of the rim. Loosen lugs and drive a little. Have do done all the above when I ran road service. Dead Blow is also a good choice.
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    x2 on the bfh
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    Quote Originally Posted by fmlyof4whlrs View Post
    happens a lot...a work most of our trucks are hub centric wheels with aluminum rims on steel hubs. The two different metals cause corrosion that makes the rims stick. Support the vehicle well and then use a large hammer to strike the tire (not the rim). Be careful as there will be some bounce but after a few hits it should shake itself loose.
    I don't see how hitting a flat tire with a hammer is going to do anything. Tire will just absorb the blow
    03 Cummins 6 speed pulls around my 84 chev 1 ton on 44"s. 427BBC, 5.13's and detroits. Shortened 28". Some day I'll finish it
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    I think he meant when the tires still had air in it. I've had to do it on my old chevy, even my dodge does it where you have to smack the wheel a few times to get it to pop off.
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    yeah an inflated tire works better, not sure if he can put some air in it or not from a portable air tank. Just didn't think it would be wise to go ape on a rim and ruin it.

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    Use a heavy soft faced hammer and beat on the rim from the inside. Put one lug on loosely so it doesn't go flying off. If you don't have a soft faced hammer. Hold a chunk of 2x4 against the wheel and beat on that. 5-10# sledge works best. Hitting the tire can work but the tire absorbs the force. And if the tire is flat will get you nowhere.
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    I had a bunch of issues getting my wife's tires off to change the brakes.

    First tire, I left the lugnuts loose and let the jack down. Once the weight of the vehicle came down on the tire, it popped off.

    Other side, I drove it all over the parking lot at our apt complex and didn't pop out. My buddy brought over a bigass plastic deadblow hammer. Jacked it up, left one lugnut loosely on, crawled underneath and gave it a couple blows with the hammer from the inside. Came right off.

    I needed to get the tire off a couple weeks later and I still needed the deadblow hammer to get it off -- which baffled me because it was the middle of the summer and I knew the rust wouldn't have been THAT bad in the short timeframe. Turns out that the center of the wheel is a slight "press" fit around the hub when the lugnuts get tightened.
    [URL="http://www.pgh-offroad.com/forum/showthread.php?t=7670"][/URL]

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    Smart phone, dumb Wrecker! Wrecker's Avatar
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    Those "press fit" ones will get worse with age. The rim will have some scale. That makes it worse. Take a piece of emory cloth and clean it a little. Some anit-seize will help greatly.
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    How about what is way worse are Honda CRV front brake rotors. They're such a tight fit on the hub that rust turns into into an almost interference fit. I've layed on my side swinging a big sledge hammer at those for hours to knock them off. What a pain in the ass that was. Luckily the girl that was paying me to change all her brakes paid me well for it. I ALMOST miss working on people's cars for beer money when I had spare time for that shit.

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    Quote Originally Posted by joshs1ofakindxj View Post
    How about what is way worse are Honda CRV front brake rotors. They're such a tight fit on the hub that rust turns into into an almost interference fit. I've layed on my side swinging a big sledge hammer at those for hours to knock them off. What a pain in the ass that was. Luckily the girl that was paying me to change all her brakes paid me well for it. I ALMOST miss working on people's cars for beer money when I had spare time for that shit.
    you sure you took the screws out? lol

    and yeah just jack it up and kick the sumbitch with your heel hard as you can, itll come off. i have a deadblow at work i use almost exclusively for getting wheels off, rotors and drums sometimes too.

    if you use a steel hammer try not to hit the actual rim, if its on there good youll destroy the rim before the wheel comes off
    96 xj rust
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    Tell him to put down his purse and put on his big girl panties.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Sloth_Fratelli View Post
    you sure you took the screws out? lol

    and yeah just jack it up and kick the sumbitch with your heel hard as you can, itll come off. i have a deadblow at work i use almost exclusively for getting wheels off, rotors and drums sometimes too.

    if you use a steel hammer try not to hit the actual rim, if its on there good youll destroy the rim before the wheel comes off
    Those screws are the biggest pain in the butt in the world. I broke an impact driver trying to get some out. If it was my car I would have just drilled them out.
    Last edited by wozz; 11-19-2011 at 12:34 AM.

  20. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sloth_Fratelli View Post
    you sure you took the screws out? lol
    I don't waste time trying to remove the screws. I just drill them out as soon as I take the wheel off.

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    a 10 lb hammer swung like steriod-pumped Mark Mcquire will take any rust-stuck wheel off. (hit da wheel, not the tire)

    But a rotor is another story. I tried it and cracked the rotor in half, and it was STILL stuck on the hub.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Wrecker View Post
    Those "press fit" ones will get worse with age. The rim will have some scale. That makes it worse. Take a piece of emory cloth and clean it a little. Some anit-seize will help greatly.
    We are getting rid of her car next year. I'm hoping that the next tire rotation is the last time I have to take off the wheels.

    Quote Originally Posted by joshs1ofakindxj View Post
    How about what is way worse are Honda CRV front brake rotors. They're such a tight fit on the hub that rust turns into into an almost interference fit. I've layed on my side swinging a big sledge hammer at those for hours to knock them off. What a pain in the ass that was. Luckily the girl that was paying me to change all her brakes paid me well for it. I ALMOST miss working on people's cars for beer money when I had spare time for that shit.
    If there is one good thing about Sarah's Vibe (which is basically a Toyota Matrix) it's that her rear drums had threaded holes in them designed so that you could use a couple bolts to pop them off. I was NOT looking forward to taking off her rear drums and got giddy like a schoolgirl when I saw those threaded holes that made my life infinitely easier.
    [URL="http://www.pgh-offroad.com/forum/showthread.php?t=7670"][/URL]

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    Quote Originally Posted by wozz View Post
    Those screws are the biggest pain in the butt in the world. I broke an impact driver trying to get some out. If it was my car I would have just drilled them out.
    haha the HF driver with the orange handle? i took 3 screws out with mine before it broke while the matco guy was at my shop. needless to say i wasnt without one for long lol
    96 xj rust
    some old chevy rust
    some motorsickles

    and a dirtymax



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  24. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sloth_Fratelli View Post
    haha the HF driver with the orange handle? i took 3 screws out with mine before it broke while the matco guy was at my shop. needless to say i wasnt without one for long lol
    No this one was actually from one of the auto parts stores. I think auto zone but am not sure.

  25. #25
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    performance tool isnt far behind HF. unless you have access to a snappy/matco guy id go lisle ftw (can get em at sears)
    96 xj rust
    some old chevy rust
    some motorsickles

    and a dirtymax



    "If i diddnt have bad luck, i wouldnt have any luck at all"

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