August 2013: New title for the crew cab build, starting on the bottom of page 6.
August 2014: Building it just as a bobbed deuce, no time for all that sheet metal work to make it a crew cab, I just want to drive it again!
October 2014: Bobbed deuce is on the road!
April 2016: Sold to a guy in Texas!
Original post: OK, re-starting my M35A2 build with direction and progress! Honestly, I just need to write this junk out and document it for my own reference and sanity. Also, I'm sure the rest of you are planning on buying army trucks so follow along!
The bring home thread... http://pgh-offroad.com/forum/showthr...ery-1954-M35A2
EXHAUST
-Changed the stack to a flapper that came with the truck
-There are several options for adding a muffler but I went the quick, easy, and cheap way with this pretty much bolt on set-up that fits behind the stock heat shield and eliminated the need for ear protection:
Jeggs: Moroso 94052 muffler $50
Napa: Two 3.5" muffler clamps $8, exhaust pipe connector 41893 $15
Note: Krylon Ultra Flat spray paint turns primer red on exhaust stack parts after awhile. Apparently Jeggs has a high temp OD green spray paint. 500 F BBQ paint flakes off after awhile. 2000 F black exhaust manifold paint seems to be holding on. And now it's back to heated and rusted. I guess it looks more natural this way.
COMFORT
-I made some brackets and installed two front seats from a 1999 Nissan Maxima I had in the cab to replace the very basic military seats. I'm using the original military lap belts. I feel closer to the steering wheel than I would like, but I'm MUCH more comfortable. Added Real Tree seat covers from Walmart.
-Using RTV and foam strips I sealed every hole in the cab I could find. This also helped with the noise in the cab and should keep it warmer.
-I had a shifter boot laying around that fit the transfer case lever nicely. Now I have to find one for the transmission. Penn View equipment near Blairsville had a giant $12 shifter boot that fit the transmission perfect.
-I'm going to put the adhesive backed window foam around the windshields next to keep cold air and rain out.
-I found some plastic cup holder piece at Walmart, intended to be shoved between seats. I bolted it to the back wall of the cab. I think I'll try bolting it to the side of the passenger seat so I don't dislocate my shoulder changing the song on my ipod.
-Thinking about a floor mat and sound deadening material on the fire wall.
-New fire extinguisher is screwed down to the transmission tunnel next to the transmission shifter.
-Cambria glass in Johnstown will make new windshield glass for $28 each. Glass dimensions are 26-7/8" x 16-5/8". Use black silicone RTV to put it in the old frame.
RAIN
-Junked the original military wipers for some Anco Civilian parts that bolt on (sold when I upgraded to electrics):
Arms: Anco 41-01
Blades: Anco 31-13
4 blades and 2 arms were $46 shipped from Rockauto.com.
-I took apart the air wipers, cleaned them, and re-lubed with a silicon spray (petroleum based is bad for the o-rings in them) but I'm still not happy with the air wipers so an electric conversion could be in the future, like these: http://thejeephut.com/index.php?main...384#googlebase
-I traded a fiberglass top for a complete M35A3 electric wiper set-up. Those were easy to install and wire. I can't use the Anco arms and blades anymore though.
SNOW
-NOS arctic grill cover was included with the truck. I put that on and haven't needed to close the front flap on it yet. The truck seems to be running at the same temperature once it warms it, regardless of the weather, but I haven't had it out in a hardcore PA winter yet!
-Also included with the truck was a 110V electric heater which threaded into a hole in the water pump. From that location I've read the water that is heated circulates naturally. It was a pain installing. I had to weld a pipe to the pipe plug that was in the hole to get it out.
TIRES
-9.00x20 NDTs on this truck for the foreseeable future. Four super single 395's on deuce rims are now in the plans.
BRAKES
-DOT 5 pushed out and replaced with DOT 3 using home made pressure bleeder (see link below)
-Ordered from pegasusautoracing.com is a set-up to install a remote brake fluid reservoir under the hood or in the cab:
3557 - remote reservoir mounting brack with o-ring
3558 - medium reservoir tank
3559 - filter screen for medium or large reservoir
3564 - threaded cap for reservoir
3575 - remote reservoir brake hose (5 ft priced per foot)
3577 - clamp for reservoir
$54 shipped for the above. Only thing missing are the 1/8" NPT threads to adapt the brake hose to the air vent on the master cylinder cap.
M35A2 specific installation instructions here: http://www.roscommonequipmentcenter....notes/nn17.pdf
Small sprayer bottles are $10 or so at Lowe's. Don't pump more than 6-8 times. I blew out my master cylinder seals. Once I took it out, I could see it needed honed and rebuilt anyways. I got the rebuild kit here: http://www.eriksmilitarysurplus.com/macyrekitfor2.html
I mounted my reservoir just behind e-brake on the back of the cab wall. Now I can see it every time I get in the truck and check it while on the fly.
My "long" style air pack (brake booster) needs rebuilt, so for now I replaced it with a non-rebuildable "short" style air pack. I also need to order a rebuild for my spare master cylinder so it is ready to go if needed.
All hoses and wheel cylinders will be replaced in the near future.
FUEL/PERFORMANCE
-I purchased another M35A2 50 gal fuel tank. I removed the pioneer tool rack and spare tire mount from the driver side and mounted it identical to the stock tank on the passenger side.
I plumbed the original pump in the spare tank to pump directly over and dump in the top of the main tank, and connected the vent lines. I put a switch on the dash to send power to the secondary tank's fuel pump.
Power is sent to the fuel gauge, then to the fuel tank level sending unit, which is a variable resistance to ground. I used an On-Off-On switch so that power from the gauge goes to the "Off" tab on the switch. When thrown one way, the switch sends power to one sending unit on one tank and tells me the level. When thrown to the other "On" it reads the level of the other tank.
Note: The parking brake cable needs to be disconnected from the lever in the cab, re-routed over the frame, and then reconnected to the lever in the cab.
-Ordered and installed this 24V pyrometer: http://www.auberins.com/index.php?ma...roducts_id=230
I set the high limit alarm at 1150F. At 1200F things got soft and at 1300-1400F the aluminum piston will start to melt and exit through the exhaust into the turbo and ruin the turbo.
I installed the probe in the manifold just above the turbo, in the rear portion of the collector, where EGT is reported to be highest.
The exhaust gasket manifold to turbo gasket and the 2 turbo oil line gaskets were available at the local CAT dealer:
1S-4295 Exhaust Manifold to Turbo Gasket $6.99
1S-4810 Turbo Oil Drain Gasket $0.89
1S-6595 Turbo Oil Feed Gasket $0.80
I also replaced the turbo drain hose. It is a 1" ID silicone hose rated for high temp oil. A hose rated for coolant won't last long there. I found a common 4" long Cummins replacement that just barely works: Cummins #3818267 - Cost about $20 at Penn View Equipment and they had them in stock.
-Installed Sunpro boost/vacuum gauge from Advance Auto Parts in the 1/8" NPT unused port in the intake just after the turbo and I'm showing 7psi max.
-I installed a Sunpro oil pressure guage from Advance Auto parts in the 1/8" NPT vent port in the top of the secondary fuel filter housing. The glass in this gauge cracked in a week.
Fuel pressure reading with clean filters is: 20 - 80 psi depending on RPM
Fuel pressure reading with filters needing changed is: ?
That port in the secondary fuel filter housing is a vent for purging air from the fuel system after changing filters so using a "T" fitting it can still be used as a vent.
-Napa #41373 is a 90 deg 4" ID/OD exhaust elbow which bolts on and turns the intake mushroom up to keep rain water out and it looks cool too. $30 at Napa.
OTHER FLUIDS
-Coolant filter installed:
Filter base - http://www.fleetfilter.com/filter/wi...ses/24019.html
Filter - http://www.fleetfilter.com/mm5/merch...Category_Code=
I used about 8' of 5/8 heater hose, 2 "T" connectors, and wrapped the hoses to the heater and filter with pipe insulation from Lowe's.
-I have drawings now to make spin on oil filter adapters. Anti-drain back is incorporated in the filters so oil pressure is instant on start up. Currently 10-15 seconds is required to build oil pressure after sitting.
-Walmart brand 80w90 GL-5 gear oil and Coastal/Advance Auto Parts brand gear oil are MT-1 approved for use with yellow metals so they are good to go in the deuce.
-A lot of people recommend SAE40 motor oil in the Spicer transmission per Spicer documents. I have tried it and have not noticed easier shifting, possibly rougher, so I switched back to gear oil.
TOOLS AND SPARE PARTS
-Belts are dirt cheap at $3 each from Summit:
Compressor belt - Dayco 200-17510DR - Dayco Belts & Pulleys - Overview - SummitRacing.com
Alternator belt (2 required) - Dayco 200-17470DR - Dayco Belts & Pulleys - Overview - SummitRacing.com
Compressor Belt Napa # 25-9510, Good Year # 17511, Gates # 9510
Alternator Belt (2 needed) Napa # 25-9470
-Fuel Filters:
Primary fuel filter on passenger front frame - NAPA 3511 or Wix 33511
Secondary fuel filters on motor - NAPA 3512 or Wix 33512 - 2 required
O-ring Gasket for the Primary Fuel Filter - NAPA 5131
O-ring Gasket for the Secondary Fuel Filter - NAPA 5070
Secondary Filter 3512 comes with 2 gaskets.
1 is the 5095 which is 4.031 O.D., 3.468 I.D., .093 Thick.
1 is the 5133 which is 3.663 O.D., 3.437 I.D., .125 Thick.
This can be used in place of the 5131 which is 3.587 O.D., 3.317 I.D., .125 Thick.
They will interchange in the filter housing. That is only .076 difference.
Every time you change fuel filters you get 2 of these 5133 gaskets with the 3512 filter.
Woody's has the 5131 for .31 cents each and has 151 of them in stock. 1/08/12
-Oil Filters:
NAPA 1133 or Wix 51133 - 2 required
O-Ring Gasket for the Oil Filters - NAPA 5119
-I have the luberfiner part numbers for the oil and fuel filters if anyone wants them also.
-Best price on bud sockets to remove the duals is from Amazon. I carry that, a normal 1-1/2" socket, 3/4" drive Harbor Freight breaker bar, 4' piece of cheater pipe, and a 8" 3/4 drive extension to change a flat. Military issue was a fancy torque multiplying wrench but I don't have one.
-Picked up a Harbor Freight 20 ton bottle jack and some short pieces of oak cribbing for the tool box.
-I have 75' of air hose on board. The previous owner replaced the emergency trailer air hook-up with a 1/4" quick coupler and there is also one installed under the dash on the passenger side so I have plenty of places to get air for tires and tools. I would like to mount a dedicated air hose reel under the bed on one side.
-I got new seals for the glad hand air couplers from a Pilot truck stop.
-I'm considering adding a 20mm ammo can above one of the fuel tanks for more tool storage.
-Lower radiator hose is a Napa 7423, Dayco 70689, or Carquest/Gates 20611
LIGHTS
-I made some simple mounts for cheap side marker lights for the truck. Two red at the rear, two amber at the front of the bed behind the cab, and two amber at the front of the truck. All are tucked under so they're not very noticeable from anywhere other than the side.
-I have 5 amber lights for the top front of the cab to add and 3 red lights for the rear center of the bed to add yet.
24 volt 464 bulbs to replace the 12v 194 bulbs were cheapest in bulk from ebay.
-License plate light is done. Also uses a 464 bulb. Got it at Advance Auto parts.
-I bolted some old fog lights for reverse lights to the back of the truck under the bed. Napa had 24v H3 bulbs. They're just wired to a switch on the dash.
-Stock bulbs (Napa should have these):
Running light: 623
Dash: 1829 (1873 or 1860 are brighter)
Turn signal: 1683
Blackout lights: 1251
MISC
-The extra long cargo cover that I got in a trade is for an extended bed M36A2. ABC custom canvas in Finleyville, PA shortened it for me for $40 + tax. I sold it to a guy in Arizona and purchased a 3 color vinyl cover at the Aberdeen swamp meet. I was able to repaint it with spray paint and repair some seams with 3M Emblem Adhesive that bonds anything it seems. Sold.
-Ditched the white stars and numbering for a camo paint scheme suing Rustoleum flat brown, walmart cheap-o flat black, and krylon flat green camo spray paints.
-Air shift transfercase rebuild is still in process. I also realized I can build a spare from parts in the sprag case, but for that to happen I would need to finish the one I'm building now. Rebuild and install complete.
-On the driver side I cut a small hole and put in a vending machine, barrel key type cam lock that engages a slot in the bottom of the cab at the door seal when the door is closed to lock the driver door. It has a metal weather cover that flips over it. I got it at Sporey's locksmith in Johnstown. I also installed a keyed ignition switch and still use the steering wheel chain. Switched to the keyed door handles for door security available on SS.
- I stopped at a TA travel center and went to the parts counter of the garage and they had 2 air tank drain valves with pull chords for $7.69 a piece. Quite a few dollars cheaper than the military surplus kits that are $18 plus shipping and do the same thing. Now I won't have to go under the truck to drain the water from the air tanks. I originally wanted to get the $40 automatic drain valves but they have freezing issues.
TA Part Number 517130
Manufacturer Part Number 12105UNI
-My heater smelled like death so I replaced the old, rotting, stinky 4" rubber hoses with new, shiny, aluminum flexible dryer duct work from Lowe's.
-Bed crane has been installed. Removed
-I have eight 1" eye bolts for the deuce bed for securing things. 4 are installed in the corners, 4 more big holes to drill.
-Radiator Cap Napa # 703-1422
-Thermostat Multi-fuel Napa # 358-180
-Air Filter Napa # 2837
12V Stuff
-12v alternator mounting kit from TM America on Steel Soldiers for $60.95. You can then bolt on a Delco 10SI 12v alternator. One belt from the generator stays the same. A longer belt is added that uses all of the generator routing points but also drive the 12V alternator. The part number for the alternator is 7127 and the numbers on the belt are 84550, 6855, 4L55, and l4550, but pretty much any 55 inch long 1/2 inch belt will work.
-Summit racing has 24V relays for integrating the 12V and 24V circuits
-Amazon has a marine cig light plugs. 2 are mounted in my dash.
-Best Buy has universal radio mounting housings for under the dash back in their install area for $20. I painted one OD and hung it on the ceiling of the cab. I'm really happy with how it turned out. I bought the cheapest radio that Advanced Auto had for $40. Some Dual thing with no CD, just radio and MP3 player input. I got some 6x9 boxes on craigslist and some Kicker DS 3 way 6x9s from a guy and mounted those between the seats.
-I'm using a 4' fiberglass black CB antenna as a CB and AM/FM antenna using a firestik splitter.
-Still need to find a CB.
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Originally Posted by oros35
