ZOMBIE Ramcharger LIVES!!!

[tjblair]

§ 175.78. Chassis.


(a) Condition of chassis. All items on the chassis shall be in safe operating condition as described in § 175.80 (relating to inspection procedure).
(b) Vehicle frame. A vehicle frame shall be in solid condition.
(c) Motor mounts. Motor mounts may not be broken, cracked or missing.
(d) Flooring and floor beds. Flooring and floor beds shall be of a construction to support occupants and cargo which the vehicle is capable of carrying and may not have openings through which exhaust gases could enter passenger compartment.
(e) Bumpers. A vehicle specified under this subchapter shall be equipped with bumpers of a type used as original equipment, or a suitable replacement which is equal to or greater in strength than that provided by the vehicle manufacturer, securely attached to the chassis or frame. See 75 Pa.C.S. § 4536 (relating to bumpers).
(1) A bumper shall be of at least equivalent strength and mounting as the original equipment.
(2) No portion of a bumper may be broken, torn or protruding to create a hazard.
(3) A bumper may not extend beyond the body line or be longer than original equipment, whichever is greater.
(4) A wood plank bumper is permitted on a road service truck or wrecker if it is firmly attached to a regular bumper or equivalent steel backing.

(Editors Note: The effective date of subsection (e)(5) is postponed indefinitely, 29 Pa.B. 2460 (May 8, 1999). Until such time as this subsection is made effective, the regulation shall continue to provide:
(5) Some part of a horizontal bumper bar on passenger vehicles shall fall within 16—20 inches above ground level.
(6) Some part of a horizontal bumper bar on a multipurpose passenger vehicle and light truck shall fall within 16—30 inches above ground level.
See 26 Pa.B. 4230 (August 31, 1996).)
(5) Bumper height. Bumper height shall be as follows:
(i) Some part of the main horizontal bumper bar, exclusive of any bumper guards, on passenger vehicles and light trucks shall fall within 16 inches aboveground level and may not exceed the following limits:

	Maximum Height
Vehicle Class	Front Bumper (or Frame if any of the conditions in subparagraph (ii) apply)	Rear Bumper (or Frame if any of the conditions in subparagraph (ii) apply)
Passenger cars	22 inches	22 inches
Trucks and multipurpose passenger Vehicles
5,000 lbs. or less GVWR	24 inches	26 inches
5,001 lbs.—7,000 lbs. GVWR	27 inches	29 inches
7,001 lbs.—9,000 lbs. GVWR	28 inches	30 inches
9,001 lbs.—11,000 lbs. GVWR	30 inches	30 inches

(ii) The front and rear height measurements shall be made to the bottom edge of the foremost portion of the frame rail, or to the original mounting brackets, whichever is lower, if one of the following apply:
(A) The bumper height, relative to the frame rail, has been altered.
(B) The vehicle was not originally equipped with a front or rear bumper.
(C) A supplemental bumper has been added. (D) The manufacturer’s specified bumper has been replaced with a bumper not identical to the manufacturer’s specified bumper.

[RalphDogg]

cool truck, would love to see that monster in person.

[RalphDogg]

Is that a Pete cab over the the back round of the photo?

[The_War_Wagon]

cool truck, would love to see that monster in person.

Could be! Jimmy owns a Pete (has his CDL), and does work on the big rigs. He's even built custom conversion busses as well.

[The_War_Wagon]

Advance Auto has an on-line promotion that ends today, if you want to take advantage of it. Buy < $100 of stuff on-line (which you can still pick up IN-store, if you like), and save 15% - AND - get a $50 off coupon for your NEXT purchase, which will arrive by e-mail after Jan.1.

I bought a new battery for the R/C yesterday and saved $16 with this promotion. They also carry replacement pistons for the rear liftgate, @ $28 and change each. So a pair would be around $57 and change, but after my coupon arrives, they'll be $7 and change after the first of the year!

[joshs1ofakindxj]

Advance Auto has an on-line promotion that ends today, if you want to take advantage of it. Buy < $100 of stuff on-line (which you can still pick up IN-store, if you like), and save 15% - AND - get a $50 off coupon for your NEXT purchase, which will arrive by e-mail after Jan.1.

Just to clarify that is $50 off of your next purchase of $100 or more.

They pretty much run that deal year round now, with it resetting at the end of every month.

That works out to be a 32.5% discount on your total minimum purchase of $200, which is better than an employee discount of 20%.

[The_War_Wagon]

Just to clarify that is $50 off of your next purchase of $100 or more.

They pretty much run that deal year round now, with it resetting at the end of every month.

That works out to be a 32.5% discount on your total minimum purchase of $200, which is better than an employee discount of 20%.

I'll hafta go back and read the fine print on that...


That's OK - R/C needs a cold air intake while I'm at it!

[The_War_Wagon]

... when it comes home again, it should be under it's OWN power!


Rollback came up to get it last night.




Tossed the glasspacks in on the passenger side! Magnaflow 2 1/4's.




I took #1 son with me, to follow it to the shop.









Following it there!





Thankfully, the shop is only 1 mile from home! My buddy is the Asst. Mgr. there, and is going to do much of the work himself.






Awww yeahhhhhhhhhh... it's the [size=18pt]BIG ONE [/size] alright!




We got it there a little after 7pm - the Mgr. was still in, so we pushed it over there after we got it off the truck. #3 son has his Pinewood Derby tomorrow @ 11:30am - I'm gonna swing by around 10:30am and shoot the breeze with my buddy about how to proceed.

I suspect it'll be there for a couple of months even; brake & fuel lines hafta be done first, then the exhaust system needs to be rebuilt. Once that's done, we've gotta drain everything, tune it up, add new brakes and wheel studs, flush and fill the radiator, change the water pump, all the hoses and serpentine belt. At that point, it MIGHT pass inspection. After the tax refund arrives, it's new alternator, starter, ignition, fuel pump, & other miscellany replacement time (replace everything on the engine that ISN'T internal!). New ring & pinion sets, B&M Transpack, and winch go on as well. Then it goes back over to Jimmy's for undercoating, and maybe a few other undercarriage details.

With any LUCK... everything BUT the engine teardown/rebuild will be done by July... and I can catch the engine next spring... HOPEFULLY...

[The_War_Wagon]

Since some shiitebag TRIED to steal a wheel off of it in the lot (they found 2 lug nuts missing off the left front this morning - the thief either got spooked, or gave up. Since the temperature last night was 5, and the windchill -15, I hope he got frostbite, his fingers fell off, & THAT'S why he quit! ), they rolled it into the garage this morning. I've got locking lug nuts for the wheels, so we still have plenty o' nuts to go around. It's going to REMAIN locked in the garage from now on, until it's finished.

Nonetheless, it's my mechanic's day off, but he rolled in early this morning, to give it the cursory once-over, once they got it on the lift. He immediately called me at 8:15am. In a word it's, "not good."

FRAME is fine, but ALL the lines underneath it are shot - including the transmission lines. Not a problem, since I was wanting to install a transmission cooler anyways - it was going to NEED new lines. Driveline angles are good, but we probably need to re-do the rear shocks and how they're mounted. Since the radiator HAS to be pulled for some of the work we're wanting to do, looks like we'll go the new radiator route, too.

True duals are going to be a hootenanny to install, as there's an EGR box on the driver's side that needs to be relocated, so that has to be fabricated - hope there's room enough to make a crossover/H-pipe!

I'm meeting up with him again tomorrow morning and bringing a notebook, as we try and figure out what all needs to be done/replaced. If anyone has a recommendation for BEEFIER rotors for a Dana 44 axle, I'm all ears. Recommendations on a good master cylinder are ALSO appreciated.

Anyone know how difficult putting disc brakes on the rear of this thing would be? Does it help appreciably, especially running 35's/36's? Is it worth the cost?

He's THINKING it can be made road-worthy, and pass inspection, for around $4k, including parts & labor. I remain skeptical - even though he's going to do me some favors on the labor price especially. If I get it done for under $6k, I'll be amazed.

This is going to be a l-o-n-g-t-e-r-m project - if it's rolling before June, that TOO, will be amazing. More pictures and updates to follow in the meantime...

[ridgerunner97]

Stock rotors, stock pads, stock drums, stock shoes....your looking too hard into this shit and looks like you could have got the same results for much less dude. It's an early 90's ramcharger on 36's. My dad had an 86, they don't stop or turn good period, it's an old school leaf sprung solid axle truck. It's not a modern vehicle that your accustomed too. Save your money. Good stock style brakes are all you need. Forget the duals they are a pain on those trucks single 2.5in or 3in is all you need/want save your money...catching the trend? LOL

[Super Scout]

I am a minimalist, "obviously" but for 4-6k I would want to know exactly what I am getting. That seems like an awful lot of money for what you described and looking at the pics the thing doenst look that bad. What else does it need besides lines and brakes. I have never been in agreement of the "well is old replace it" or "its been sitting for a while replace it" mentality. I just wonder what it really needs. Truck is looking good tho.

[The_War_Wagon]

Stock rotors, stock pads, stock drums, stock shoes....your looking too hard into this shit and looks like you could have got the same results for much less dude. It's an early 90's ramcharger on 36's. My dad had an 86, they don't stop or turn good period, it's an old school leaf sprung solid axle truck. It's not a modern vehicle that your accustomed too. Save your money. Good stock style brakes are all you need. Forget the duals they are a pain on those trucks single 2.5in or 3in is all you need/want save your money...catching the trend? LOL

I don't expect it to handle like a Viper when done - I do want the BEEFIEST brakes/rotors/calipers I can reasonably put under it though. I'm still IN the city - we gotta TRAVEL a bit, to get to some off-road. Navigating the up & down (especially the DOWN!) of the South Hills is still a necessity in this thing, even if it isn't a daily driver. Besides, I'm OLD. Stopping is a lot more important at my age, than going!

I am a minimalist, "obviously" but for 4-6k I would want to know exactly what I am getting. That seems like an awful lot of money for what you described and looking at the pics the thing doenst look that bad. What else does it need besides lines and brakes. I have never been in agreement of the "well is old replace it" or "its been sitting for a while replace it" mentality. I just wonder what it really needs. Truck is looking good tho.

We're just eyeballing everything at this point, and thinking worst case scenario (replacing EVERYTHING but the frame, axles, & engine block), plus labor. Things we KNOW hafta go at this point;

- Fuel, brake, transmission lines
- Starter, fuel pump (in-tank solenoid), water pump, radiatior, & alternator
- All belts, hoses, filters & fluids must be changed
- Ring & pinion swap
- Transpak, and possibly a shift kit
- Tuneup
- Wheel studs, hubs, master cylinder, drums (if we keep the standard rear brakes) and beefier rotors and calipers up front.
- New exhaust (cats & glasspacks are already bought & paid for though)

There appears to be a problem with the rear shock mounts, vis-a-vis the driveline angle of the axle, so there's some more welding that has to be done. We've no IDEA what we're going to find when we drop the tank skid, and look at the tank. We're also assuming the engine internals are PERFECT, and need nothing other than to be boiled out with Sea Foam, and an oil change. A mild cam improvement, new lifters, and new cyliner heads at a minimum are in the works for NEXT spring, assuming everything still works perfectly in the engine right now.

The lift was Skyjacker's COMPLETE 4 1/2" system, with new drag links, bushings, and such. We still hafta go through the steering components, and HOPE those are all still good to go.

There is no fast or easy way to go through this - the truck sat for the better part of 7 years, so a LOT needs to be gone over - a lot ALREADY needs to be replaced. I sure don't wanna be down past Nemacolin out in the woods somewhere, and need a tow OUT, and a tow BACK, to civilization in this monster! We're going to take our time, be thorough, and do it right.

[ridgerunner97]

You can do it right and not get boned out of 6k bucks....Just saying. I like how its sitting right now hope you get it where you want it to be.

[Super Scout]

Ahh ok, lol for some reason I thought this thing was moving lol.

[The_War_Wagon]

Ahh ok, lol for some reason I thought this thing was moving lol.

I wish.

MOST people get the internals squared away, and do the bodywork/paint last. I dumb-lucked into getting it done the other way around. Looks like a MILLION bucks... but it's just a big paperweight at this point...

[The_War_Wagon]

MORE shop pics!







Lockout hubs are on!




New master cylinder, booster, drums, and brakes lines - incluidng the e-brake - are done!










Box o' fuel line tubing, from In-Line tube (stainless! ) - it's now installed.




Tank - with new pump/sender installed - old one laying beside it.




Tank skid. I took it home, scrubbed on it with a steel brush outside in the warm sun and 36 degree temperatures... for about a half-hour. It WASN'T going to be pretty or neat, but I figured scrubbing SOME rust off (about a pound's worth!) and covering it with some Krylon rustoleum, was better than just sticking it back up there rusty and flaking.

Here's the inside - freshly/sorta scrubbed (next to my Jerry can, which I'm going to have painted to match the truck paint scheme! )




And here's the INSIDE, covered in one can's worth of FDE tan!



And yes, I DID paint it inside the craft room of the Sunday School building at my church - thanks for asking! :P The room has more heat than my garage!
I covered the other half in some sort of Krylon burnt orange Primer late this afternoon. Pics to follow when the fumes subside...

New transmission lines - CRAPPY pic...



New CAD system and radiator to be ordered this weekend... she's GETTIN' there...

[2002wranglerX]

What's the idea behind 8 shocks?

[DMG]

Duh. 8>4.

Looks like it will be ready for the trail, soon.

[Matt9589]

nice! just read threw the entire thread! I like what I see!

[The_War_Wagon]

Looks like it will be ready for the trail, soon.

No. It'll be ready to drive over to YOUR shop next!

[The_War_Wagon]

Just to make you wait a bit longer , here's my rust-COLORED tank skid, back in place! Rust-colored PRIMER, ON a Ramcharger... why does it seem so fitting?









The brakes are done, the fuel lines are done, and like any good artist, my mechanic took some 'creative liberties' - adding chrome tips to the exhaust (and going with 2 1/4" pipe was the WAY to go!!! They're snaked all through there, with dual cats and dual glasspacks!!!). I was happy with plain pipe, but it adds a nice touch.
















It's NOT my best camera, but it IS the one I can do video with! THAT will be important, in just a minute!


Now keep in mind, the oil was LAST changed right after I got it - in late '06. Lord only knows when the last time it got tuned up. Now we've done NOTHING under the hood so far. Other than change the fuel filter, the pump and the sender unit back in the tank, the engine is UN-touched, for 6+ years...


I THINK... I might've gotten LUCKY... or BLESSED...




Take a watch, and a listen. Chris, my mechanic on the underside so far, is in the video, as well as my oldest co-pilot.




http://s212.photobucket.com/albums/c...psfe1e2fa3.mp4




Can't WAIT to hear what she sounds like after a thorough flushing, with new plugs, wires, coil, distributor, tune-up, coolers, K&N air filter, and assorted other goodies!

[2002wranglerX]

Looks good.

[YZEATER]

i do believe your front axle shims are in wrong. they are usually put in the front to help the front driveshaft angle.

[tjblair]

i do believe your front axle shims are in wrong. they are usually put in the front to help the front driveshaft angle.

Good eye. Yea those look to be I backassward.

[joshs1ofakindxj]

I can't really think of a situation that would call for the front axle shims being inserted that way, with the thick part towards the rear, tilting the pinion down.