Budget XJ long arm plan

[HeepH8erTy]

So, I wanna go longarms and I'm wondering what the best and cheapest way to go about it is. I know you can pick two of the 3: fastest, best, cheapest... I'll take the second two. Things that I know I want for sure:

-Radius arms
-Fixed poly bushings axle side of lower arms
-adjustable JJ, ballistic, or heim on subframe side (I'll pick the exact joint later on... not worrying about that right now)
-new transfer case cross member that incorporates my upper link mounts and some protection for the bottom of the t-case
-re-use my factory axle mounts

Things that I am wondering about...

-Anyone have a set of radius arms laying around from a TJ / XJ / ZJ or something?

-If I go to buy (or copy another design and make my own) a new cross member with link mounts already in it... who makes the best one?

-Right now I have a 1" t-case drop. Eventually I'll do a SYE, but for now, shouldn't be a problem if I keep that 1" spacer in for the new cross member, then remove it when I do the sye...correct?

-When I make the new lower arm... can I leave the truck sitting on its tires at ride height, and remove the lower arms. Then, with my new cross member in place, just make the arms long enough to connect the two ends? I plan to just have the frame side of the arm be adjustable

-For the upper links, how do I know how long they should be? Does it matter that much how far back its mounted on the link? Or is it fine if I look at some other kits and mount it in generally the same spot?

Like I said, I'm just starting to plan this out and see if I'm really going to do it or not... I'm not buying anything right now. Eventually I would like be running 35's with a 44 in the front and locked 8.8 in the back. I would like to keep the jeep driveable, for the most part, while Its getting to that point. So i'd like to do stuff slowly in steps. I figure starting with those long arms would a be a good next step and wouldn't interfere with the rest of what I want to do (plate frame, rect. steel rocker/sliders, axles, locker in the back, discs in the back, skid plates, bumpers).

Thoughts?

[PatF10]

yea the long arm will help you crawl over the parking blocks at work

[HeepH8erTy]

I was hoping it would mainly keep the trees from smashing into me. Them things piss me off

[XJchris98]

I was hoping it would mainly keep the trees from smashing into me. Them things piss me off

Stop trying to show off for the ladies and you'd be suprised at how well the tree's, magically move out of the way for you on the trail!!

[joe_and_jeep]

Short arms! 4" lift with 40s.

[joshs1ofakindxj]

Ya, my short arms, 4.5" lift, and 33"s make me happy.

[Krod]

Buy chris' old long arms we just took off. Have us build you a new crossmember...

Or just buy the entire jeep so he can finally build a LJ

[XJchris98]

I have to say PK's TJ was a very, very tempting buy to pass on...

But then again I dont think I could build just another 1-ton TJ, like e-v-e-r-y-o-n-e else.....

[PatF10]

what about a 1 ton yj?

[XJchris98]

what about a 1 ton yj?

We all know how that ends...








...still sitting in a garage 4yrs later

[HeepH8erTy]

Hahaha yupp, last time I saw that thing I was drag racing it I think... the worlds slowest drag race lol

Chris, you sellin your radius arms? I would possibly be down to take em off your hands if you're gettin rid of em

And yea yea, I know I dont need long arms....



but guess what, its my stupid jeep sooo....

[XJchris98]

I didnt really think of selling them, but might be able to work something out to help fund my shock purchase


Basically I just copied Claytons design (2"x2"x.25"wall) only with different joint/bushing options and a completely different frame mount. The arms are setup to use Ballistic's poly bushing on the axle side and their forged joint on the frame side. The upper links use a 3/4" heim on the lower link side.

For the frame mount, I already had TNT's belly skid, so I just built the link mounts off of that. I had the skidplate before they came out with their high clearance long arm design, but I actually like the lower mounted 2x2 arms better. You loose a little clearance, but id rather drag the links over something than the oil pan/exhaust/etc.



I'm re-using the forged joints on my new arms, but the 1.25" squre inserts are already burned in along with the DOM sleeve for the poly bushings. I have brand new bushing inserts for the DOM sleeve as well as new 3/4" RuffStuff Heims. I think I might even have a few bushings you could use for the upper link mounts at the axle. If your serious about doing this, keep an eye out for sales at RuffStuff or Ballistic. No reason to pay full price when it usually goes on sale every other month or so.

[muddeprived]

You could do what I did and buy RC's long arm upgrade kit and add in the currie joints x 4. I haven't had a single issue with it in almost two years.

[HeepH8erTy]

I didnt really think of selling them, but might be able to work something out to help fund my shock purchase


Basically I just copied Claytons design (2"x2"x.25"wall) only with different joint/bushing options and a completely different frame mount. The arms are setup to use Ballistic's poly bushing on the axle side and their forged joint on the frame side. The upper links use a 3/4" heim on the lower link side.

For the frame mount, I already had TNT's belly skid, so I just built the link mounts off of that. I had the skidplate before they came out with their high clearance long arm design, but I actually like the lower mounted 2x2 arms better. You loose a little clearance, but id rather drag the links over something than the oil pan/exhaust/etc.

I'm re-using the forged joints on my new arms, but the 1.25" squre inserts are already burned in along with the DOM sleeve for the poly bushings. I have brand new bushing inserts for the DOM sleeve as well as new 3/4" RuffStuff Heims. I think I might even have a few bushings you could use for the upper link mounts at the axle. If your serious about doing this, keep an eye out for sales at RuffStuff or Ballistic. No reason to pay full price when it usually goes on sale every other month or so.

I'm liking the sound of that. I am serious about wanting them if you do get rid of em. If you are, when would you be? I wasn't really planning on starting to gather parts yet... but who knows... I'm not very good at passing up good deals lol

You could do what I did and buy RC's long arm upgrade kit and add in the currie joints x 4. I haven't had a single issue with it in almost two years.

I'll hafta look into joints and do a little research before I get the joints. Is there any particular reason why you went with Currie joints over, say, ballistic's?

I think this is starting to look pretty good if I can get those arms off Chris. I will either just need to make a cross member or buy one. I'm thinking that buying one may be my best bet so the jeep doesnt have to be down while I'm making the cross member. Can anyone recommend JUST a cross member for a 4-link (aka uca mounts built in) that is sweet? I'm looking at different kits and separate cross members, but don't know whats the best to get. I'm really liking the clayton cross member, but it doesnt have any t-case protection... I guess I could always add something in there tho.

I think I may just pile up parts for now (joints, arms cross member), then when I get them all, its just going to be swapping out parts.

Here is another thought... I'm probably going to have to get new longer shocks ey? Is there a way for me to figure out what I will need beforehand? Or am I just gonna hafta get the arms in and measure?

And Lucke, what are you doing for bump stops up front? just kept with the stockers? Did the 33's make enough contact at full stuff with your inner fender that you needed the bumps to prevent that?

[XJchris98]

I have no problem getting rid of the arms, I just wasnt that worried about posting them for sale right away since they dont take up that much space. They got pulled with the 30 and have been sitting in the 'parts' pile ever since. They're not going anywhere, so you dont have to worry about jumping on it right away lol.


The Currie joints are nice, but if I remember correctly they're more money than the Ballistic Joints and they aren't adjustable for wear. The Ballistic joints use a threaded washer to pre-load the joint whereas the Currie joints use a snap ring. Someone with more experience with the Currie joints could tell you more though...

Are you wanting to do Radius arms or a true 4-link? If your wanting radius arms, Clayton, TnT, Rustys, & Rough Country all make cross-members with the lower link mounts. BDS and Full-Traction make a true '4-link' long-arm setup for the XJ's, but I think you have to run a stupid amount of lift to clear the arms. For what you want though, I think the Radius arm's would be the cheapest/easiest/most functional option. As far as transfer case protection, TnT(Treks) is your best bang for the buck. Either get the skid plate made for their long-arm's or just their regular one and make your own mounts. I think Clayton now offers a transfer case skid plate for their cross members, but I could be mistaken. Either way, it wouldnt be that hard to add a little metal on to protect the transfer case if you go that route.

You will definitely need longer shocks lol. Ideally, you should measure because you won't know how much compression/droop you'll get with your current springs/etc and the longer links. You can estimate for what you 'want' to have, but its better to actually put everything together and measure. You can always run around on the street for a few days with shorter shocks until you can find the right size ones. I do however just so happen to have a set of Bilstein 5100's that came off my Jeep I could include with those long-arms that might work for what you need. (along with a set of 5.5" RE coil springs)

I used the stock upper bump stop and added hockey pucks on the lower side. I just welded on a fully threaded rod to the coil bucket and stacked the hockey-pucks accordingly. It wasnt the best way to bump stop, but it got me through the college wheeling that we did (or lack there of) lol. The bumps were mostly there to keep the shock from bottoming out. To get the droop I wanted, I had to limit the up-travel to keep the shock from bottoming out. I think there's some pictures floating around of us at the gravel pits right after I got the long-arms on that show how my 33's stuffed in the fender's.

[muddeprived]

I'm liking the sound of that. I am serious about wanting them if you do get rid of em. If you are, when would you be? I wasn't really planning on starting to gather parts yet... but who knows... I'm not very good at passing up good deals lol



I'll hafta look into joints and do a little research before I get the joints. Is there any particular reason why you went with Currie joints over, say, ballistic's?

I think this is starting to look pretty good if I can get those arms off Chris. I will either just need to make a cross member or buy one. I'm thinking that buying one may be my best bet so the jeep doesnt have to be down while I'm making the cross member. Can anyone recommend JUST a cross member for a 4-link (aka uca mounts built in) that is sweet? I'm looking at different kits and separate cross members, but don't know whats the best to get. I'm really liking the clayton cross member, but it doesnt have any t-case protection... I guess I could always add something in there tho.

I think I may just pile up parts for now (joints, arms cross member), then when I get them all, its just going to be swapping out parts.

Here is another thought... I'm probably going to have to get new longer shocks ey? Is there a way for me to figure out what I will need beforehand? Or am I just gonna hafta get the arms in and measure?

And Lucke, what are you doing for bump stops up front? just kept with the stockers? Did the 33's make enough contact at full stuff with your inner fender that you needed the bumps to prevent that?

I went with Currie cuz they are the best and they had the exact sizes to fit RC's arms.


I would put the arms on and then cycle the suspension to measure what length shock you need.

If you can, take XJChris98's 5100's cuz they ride awesomely. I have them with crappy RC springs and my jeep is a dream to drive.

[XJchris98]

FYI; Ballistic is having a 20% off Sale. Ends Today...

[Barillms]

For the front Y link style radius arms are cheapest & easiest to build.
Prob have roughly $150-175 in the project if you know how to build it yourself.

Poly bushings at the ends. 3/4" heim at the Y
Two brackets to weld to the frame rail or crossmember.
Grade 8 bolts & lock nuts. Done

I can do it for you for $400.
But I'd need a down payment & your Jeep for roughly 4-5 days.