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Thread: Drive Shaft Builder Parts

  1. #1
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    Drive Shaft Builder Parts

    I need a front driveshaft. 1350 with a long slip for shackle reversal. I've been looking around at options but there doesn't appear to be many with this size u-joint. This will be a non CV shaft.

    Has anyone ordered anything from here:

    http://www.driveshaftsuperstore.com/...and_spline.htm
    Heat the hole freeze the shaft

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    Heat the hole freeze the shaft

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    Ha that's a good thread. Tom give Mark at Greensburg Machine and Driveline a call. I can stop out and pick the stuff up if you need me too. I need to talk to him anyway.
    97 XJ Clayton Longarms 35s locked etc.
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    Tom Woods can make you one, no problem.
    Something catchy goes here.

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    Thanks guys. Thinking of expanding on my cheapass..ness and building a square one. I don't foresee any speed in my future and I know a few guys that run them with success.

    That said, it would be nice to have one built and not have to worry about my booty fab failing me.
    Heat the hole freeze the shaft

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    Having done the square DS, it's damned annoying after one day. The other to try would be Ron at Powertrain Industries. They're damned good and are a bigger shop than TW. You can buy the materials from him and weld away. Don't forget to consider the diameter, tube thickness, and length of the DS. They all matter.
    Something catchy goes here.

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by dan58 View Post
    Having done the square DS, it's damned annoying after one day. The other to try would be Ron at Powertrain Industries. They're damned good and are a bigger shop than TW. You can buy the materials from him and weld away. Don't forget to consider the diameter, tube thickness, and length of the DS. They all matter.
    I read that experience a lot too. My luck that's what I'd get. I'm going to call around and see what buying the parts will run me. Might just buy one too and be done with it. Thanks.
    Heat the hole freeze the shaft

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    tatton will build you one. mine with double carden and 1310's was like 200 bucks shipped. 1350s will be a little more. but it shouldn't be bad.

    edit: non cv will be even less
    taking unsafe rigs to a whole other level

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    Quote Originally Posted by 2002wranglerX View Post
    tatton will build you one. mine with double carden and 1310's was like 200 bucks shipped. 1350s will be a little more. but it shouldn't be bad.

    edit: non cv will be even less
    I remember you telling me about them a while back. They're definately on the list. Carolina driveline too. I liked them a lot but they I think they're a little limited.
    Heat the hole freeze the shaft

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    Called TW. He wanted $399 for the driveshaft plus $95 for a 26 spline 1350 yoke for the d300. He said they only work with two lengths for slip...8" @349 and 20" @399.

    I'm just putting this here for me and for anyone wondering about price.


    He also said a lot of the GM 60's run a 1310 yoke. I always assumed it was 1350 so now I need to go measure. Does anyone see a problem running a 1310 with my setup? I am undergeared at the axles. 4.56 with 39.5's.

    I'm also on the stock output in the d300 so maybe a 1310 would be the way to go anyway.

    I honestly think I should go 1350 regardless and upgrage teh tcase as things break.
    Last edited by Deadman 94 xj; 02-28-2014 at 02:48 PM.
    Heat the hole freeze the shaft

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    that seems expensive. he's gotten a little big for his britches. especially with the issues people have with his shafts.
    taking unsafe rigs to a whole other level

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    I honest avoided him in the past only because everyone always said he's the best. I agree...that's counter productive...lol.

    I think most shops are going up in $$. High Angle quoted me 895 for my rear driveshaft. I would've just sold the jeep.

    I need to go measure. I'm all over the place with this as of right now because I don't know what angle I'll be running up front yet. Gotta measure. If its too steep, my options might be limited to a 1410 yoke because they can take a bit more angle. I'm trying to stay with a non CV shaft up front...
    Heat the hole freeze the shaft

  13. #13
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    i ran 1310 joints on the front and 1310/1330 hybrid on the back of my TJ. only ever broke one.
    taking unsafe rigs to a whole other level

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    That's good to know. Thanks. I can also run a 1350 shaft and use 1310/1350 conversion joints at both ends...at least until I need to upgrade yokes/outputs later on. But if everyone is runing 1310's I'm not sure why I'd bother.

    I think I read that joint angles vary as follows:

    1310 -30*
    1330 & 1350 -20*
    1410 -37*


    Oh well, enough brainstorming. Time to crawl under the jeep.
    Heat the hole freeze the shaft

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    I have two square tube drive shafts from a giant bat-wing brush hog I scrapped. I saved them because they're really heavy, decent length, and I thought I would use them on a jeep build. Not so much now. Let me know if you're interested in them. You could probably adapt yokes to the round ends already on them and cut the square tubes to the length you need pretty easily, and if you're running lock out hubs you don't have to listen to it when you don't want to.

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    I got new shafts from CarolinaDrivline when I re-did everything on my XJ. There prices were a little under TW and Point Spring(4wd hardware shafts) and they knew exactly what to make from the info I gave them - no hassle or long explinations. Shipping was fast and customer service was top notch. I'd definitely do business with them again.

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    I ran 1310s for years. Never broke one. It's a pretty good chance that your 60 has one too. That alone will really drop the price. The big cost is the long slip spline.

    Another thought...go to tractor supply and get a PTO shaft. LONG slip and heavier duty than anything you'll find.
    Something catchy goes here.

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    ^ Those PTO Shafts don't hold up very well in a driveshaft application. They are triangular shaped and i've seen them get beat out just using them for what they are built for. Waste of money. Tom call Mark for the parts you want and see how much that is, or how much for him to just build the shaft, you may be pleasantly surprised.
    97 XJ Clayton Longarms 35s locked etc.
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  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by joshs1ofakindxj View Post
    I have two square tube drive shafts from a giant bat-wing brush hog I scrapped. I saved them because they're really heavy, decent length, and I thought I would use them on a jeep build. Not so much now. Let me know if you're interested in them. You could probably adapt yokes to the round ends already on them and cut the square tubes to the length you need pretty easily, and if you're running lock out hubs you don't have to listen to it when you don't want to.
    Thanks Josh. I'm not sure what I'm going to do yet but I appreciate the offer.
    Heat the hole freeze the shaft

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    Quote Originally Posted by ridgerunner97 View Post
    ^ Those PTO Shafts don't hold up very well in a driveshaft application. They are triangular shaped and i've seen them get beat out just using them for what they are built for. Waste of money. Tom call Mark for the parts you want and see how much that is, or how much for him to just build the shaft, you may be pleasantly surprised.
    Negative, ghostrider. I'm talking the splined versions. They are a coarse 13-spline. I had one for close to 4 years. They have 24" of slip. Heavier duty than anything you'll find automotive. Hells cheaper too.
    Something catchy goes here.

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