NP241-D: Slipyoke eliminator, or...???

[The_War_Wagon]

OK... gonna double cardon the rear drive shaft, where it comes OUT of the NP241 t-case on the Ramcharger, and I need some confirmation on the CV flange, needed to mount it to the NP241.

What I FIRST need though, is a slipyoke eliminator, no? Like THIS?

http://www.driveshaftsuperstore.com/drive_shaft_SYE.htm

This is a fully splined 1 7/8 inch seal surface diameter slip yoke only. You can bolt this one on after drilling and tapping a hole at the end of the output shaft.



Any slip yoke transfer case can have an SYE made for it. This includes Dodges, Fords, Chevys,.. As long as it is a slip yoke, it can be eliminated.

Size of CV needed on the SYE Yoke
FOR 208 SYE COMPLETE KIT CLICK HEREThis flange is 32 spline and is installed just like the yoke. This is a universal flange that has Ford(3" square hole pattern-treaded), Chevy (3" square hole pattern-no tread), Toyota( 2 3/8 square by 2 11/16 CV hole pattern, and the large hole pattern for Suzuki.


Large universal flange style 2.0 pilot SYE -- $185.00
Large universalflange style 2.688 pilot SYE -- $185.00

I'm going nuts trying to figure this stuff out!

[RedRaider]

here's how that works. You pull your driveshaft out of the tcase, you drill/tap a hole in the tcase tailhousing, for a set screw. You insert the flange shaft that you have pictured, put the set screw in to keep it from sliding out. That flange you have pictured is already drilled for the 2&11/16 cv (double cardan) housing, which means you can bolt your double cardan driveshaft to the new tcase flange/sye. Since you take the slip out of the tcase, you have to put it back in your driveshaft. Your original driveshaft won't have a slip section on it, so you can't cut it down and reuse it, you'll have to build/buy one. To figure out your driveshaft, use a driveshaft calculator like this one, http://www.dennysdriveshaft.com/app/...iagrams/f.html. Keep in mind if you're having a driveshaft built, and just want the double cardan and don't need the sye, you can have one built with the original style slip yoke and double cardan

[The_War_Wagon]

Keep in mind if you're having a driveshaft built, and just want the double cardan and don't need the sye, you can have one built with the original style slip yoke and double cardan

I DID look at Denny's this morning for some ideas - and the Ford CV cardon flange. I DON'T think I'll need a new driveshaft, as Hank at Pittsburgh Driveshaft is building my double cardon. I did find a slip yoke eliminator setup elsewhere though, that should solve ALL my problems... except DMG's problems. HE'LL hafta install it.

[The_War_Wagon]

It ain't cheap, but it SHOULD do the job! http://www.jbconversions.com/product..._j_std_sye.php

This one specifically. Part #16-1204-1966 -- $425.00 (w/1350 Rear Output Flange)

[RedRaider]

If your driveshaft doesn't have a slip in it and you do a sye, you will definitely need a new driveshaft. Measure the distance between tcase flange and pinion yoke on axle at full suspension compression and then again at full extension. The difference between these lengths is the amount of slip you need.

The jb conversion sye kit is a better kit imo. It replaces the tail section on the tcase with a shorter fixed yoke/flange, allowing more driveshaft length available for a slip section. The driveshaft superstore sye looks like it might pull out of the tcase unless the piece they give has step machined in for the set screw.

[The_War_Wagon]

It's a factory driveshaft - it HAS the slip. And I'm going JB conversion as well.

[DMG]

You already basically have a SYE. If anything, you need a double cardan at the transfer case end.

[The_War_Wagon]

You already basically have a SYE. If anything, you need a double cardan at the transfer case end.

I talked to Hank yesterday - showed him the JB Conversion unit, and the Ford 1350 CV yoke that I'd like to go with. He's gonna build me a new driveshaft while we're at it - we've just got to measure the distance between the flat, and the center of the U-joint at the differential, to get the length right.

On the BRIGHT side, disassembling my transfer case, means more money for you!