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Thread: I broke the WJ...

  1. #26
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    What did you switch?
    98 Dodge Ram 1500
    2003 Jeep WJ 4” lift, 32” BFG Mud Terrains
    89 Suzuki Sidekick (long tube header, sawzaw lift kit, 31’s, lots of rust and FOR SALE!)
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  2. #27
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    Swapped both yolks and put in a double Cardan propeller shaft. Mine was a rezeppa joint on both ends, so I had to replace both yolks. I think I got mine from Rusty's. I won't lie, it sucks to convert it over. I'll see if I can find the procedure.

  3. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by Keith View Post
    do you know if they are the right length/spline?
    there not compatible, i'd run the part store replacements. we have 35's on our wj, it see's blue trails when it's running lol. and the autozone cv's seem to be doing just fine with the quadra drive 2
    Last edited by tow hook; 01-12-2018 at 08:15 AM.
    57 3b, 98 xj, 02 wj, an a go kart with boost

  4. #29
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    With the front end pretty much fixed (for now) I think I will plan my upgrades for the rear Dana35 first. It looks like a Dana44A can be had from a junk yard for around $200 and I should be able to get the correct gear ratio with a shitty limited slip. Looks like pretty much a bolt in swap but I don’t know about the rear drive shaft... With the front drive shaft being the culprit for my issues, I just stuck a stock replacement in there to get me through winter when I can get a shiny new Tom Woods unit installed. I’m happy to hear that everything in the front diff still looks like new and now thanks to the R&D that was put into it she has new gear oil. The sad thing is that I have a Ruff Stuff dif cover for it that I could have put on had I remembered to bring it...
    98 Dodge Ram 1500
    2003 Jeep WJ 4” lift, 32” BFG Mud Terrains
    89 Suzuki Sidekick (long tube header, sawzaw lift kit, 31’s, lots of rust and FOR SALE!)
    2017 Suzuki DRZ400S
    1973 Bultaco Matador SD250

  5. #30
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    Careful with those 44A rears. They come with a whole different set of problems. They're not really designed for off-road. Too many issues with that aluminum housing for me.

  6. #31
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    https://www.ironrockoffroad.com/prod...-swap-kit.html Plus a 8.8 might be the way to go.

  7. #32
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    I know the d44a has its weak points but I don’t have a big budget to work with, I’m a piss poor fabricator and don’t have much in the way of tools/place to work/time. I figured with the d44a I can get the correct gearing with a limited slip for less than the cost of a lunchbox locker for the d35. My plan was to buy it, put on a skid plate and run it. The jeeps primarily purpose is a Dd but I want enough strengthening in the driveline to hold up to some weekend wheeling.
    98 Dodge Ram 1500
    2003 Jeep WJ 4” lift, 32” BFG Mud Terrains
    89 Suzuki Sidekick (long tube header, sawzaw lift kit, 31’s, lots of rust and FOR SALE!)
    2017 Suzuki DRZ400S
    1973 Bultaco Matador SD250

  8. #33
    Right Wing Extremist! DMG's Avatar
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    I don’t think the 44A is much if any improvement over the WJ D35.

  9. #34
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    You don’t think the Dana44A is an improvement over the Dana35? I know that the aluminum housing is suspect but the rest of the thing is a beefy version of the d44. The only thing I can think of that the dana35 would win on is the c clip setup in the d44 vs the d35 semi float. My plan is for a good easy bolt in swap in my driveway with added skid plate and maybe some trusses depending on if it looks like I need it. The 8.8 is a great option as well but then I have to figure something out for how to install it and then the wheel bolt pattern is wrong too... After all of that is it really that much better than the d44a with some trusses and skids? This jeep is mainly to drive to and from work and play in the woods once in a while. The only reason for the swap is because I want either a lsd or a locker and refuse to put any $ into a dana35.
    Last edited by Keith; 01-14-2018 at 12:11 PM. Reason: I’m stupid
    98 Dodge Ram 1500
    2003 Jeep WJ 4” lift, 32” BFG Mud Terrains
    89 Suzuki Sidekick (long tube header, sawzaw lift kit, 31’s, lots of rust and FOR SALE!)
    2017 Suzuki DRZ400S
    1973 Bultaco Matador SD250

  10. #35
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    I understand the budget constraint issue. I guess the question is what you're willing to save up for. I would say the 8.8 is significantly better than a Dana 44A. They're cheaper than many other options, but do require some effort. As for the bolt difference, you could use wheel spacers or swap the axle shafts. You could also go the ECGS route. Those are 100% bolt in, but cost a little more up front. Of course, if you can really get a 44A under your WJ for $200, then the cost difference would let you swap it out for another 44A if it were ever to break, and still be less than an 8.8. I guess the toughest part is going to be trussing the 44A to minimize the weakness of the center diff housing.

  11. #36
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    The gears and diff are bigger on the 44a than the 35 but the housing distorts and supposedly doesn’t take being dragged over rocks well. If you are off-roading the Jeep I am not sure which is better.

  12. #37
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    You can get a truss and skid for under $200. Add a HD diff cover for good measure and the D44a housing is 'fixed'. The axle is a lot better than it's reputation. However, aftermarket support is indeed very limited. ARB is the only selectable locker for it.
    '02 WJ, 4" lift, 35s, 242HD, Ox locker, trussed Super30 front, plenty of leaks ... it's a Jeep thing.

  13. #38
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    Quote Originally Posted by J.M. View Post
    You can get a truss and skid for under $200. Add a HD diff cover for good measure and the D44a housing is 'fixed'. The axle is a lot better than it's reputation. However, aftermarket support is indeed very limited. ARB is the only selectable locker for it.
    That’s pretty much what I thought, it comes with the correct gears and a limited slip so when you figure that cost into an 8.8, the cheap swap idea just turned into $1200... I am far from being an expert on axles so I’m just getting a good idea of what the options are
    98 Dodge Ram 1500
    2003 Jeep WJ 4” lift, 32” BFG Mud Terrains
    89 Suzuki Sidekick (long tube header, sawzaw lift kit, 31’s, lots of rust and FOR SALE!)
    2017 Suzuki DRZ400S
    1973 Bultaco Matador SD250

  14. #39
    Less posting, more wheeling! joshs1ofakindxj's Avatar
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    I have zero confidence in a factory limited slip, especially used, doing anything for you offroad so I would rather source an open dif and install a lunchbox locker. I can't say how well a D44A likes an aussie locker though.

    FYI you can't put an lunchbox locker in a limited slip carrier at a later time and swapping factory carriers may require nothing or if the backlash is off you will have to reshim the carrier and check the pattern, etc. You can install aussie locker easily in your driveway with hand tools.

    I ran an aussie in an XJ factory dana 44 for a long time without issue and I had a friend in college running an aussie in a D44A and I don't recall him having any issues, but we didn't wheel a whole lot in college.
    Last edited by joshs1ofakindxj; 01-15-2018 at 05:03 PM.
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  15. #40
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    Quote Originally Posted by Keith View Post
    That’s pretty much what I thought, it comes with the correct gears and a limited slip so when you figure that cost into an 8.8, the cheap swap idea just turned into $1200... I am far from being an expert on axles so I’m just getting a good idea of what the options are
    The 8.8 was available in 3.73 and 4.10. With a limited slip from the factory. I forgot that the WJ was 5/5, though.

  16. #41
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    Quote Originally Posted by Keith View Post
    That’s pretty much what I thought, it comes with the correct gears and a limited slip so when you figure that cost into an 8.8, the cheap swap idea just turned into $1200... I am far from being an expert on axles so I’m just getting a good idea of what the options are
    If you're planning on welding on your own truss to the 44A, then an 8.8 wouldn't be that much different in price. Pre-made brackets/perches are $250, and for about $100 more you can have a truss added. So if you go the 44A route, you're looking at $200 for the axle, $200 for the truss/skid, and another $125 for a HD Diff Cover. So now that cheap axle swap is starting to get a bit more expensive. And all of this is excluding the fact you might run into issues with the 44A housing already being distorted. Which will cause the bearings to fail prematurely and require a full rebuild.

  17. #42
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    Quote Originally Posted by AngusGT View Post
    If you're planning on welding on your own truss to the 44A, then an 8.8 wouldn't be that much different in price. Pre-made brackets/perches are $250, and for about $100 more you can have a truss added. So if you go the 44A route, you're looking at $200 for the axle, $200 for the truss/skid, and another $125 for a HD Diff Cover. So now that cheap axle swap is starting to get a bit more expensive. And all of this is excluding the fact you might run into issues with the 44A housing already being distorted. Which will cause the bearings to fail prematurely and require a full rebuild.
    What vehicle is the best option for a 8.8 swap? Explorer? Ranger? I don’t want to get into a bunch of custom fab work, I’m doing this in my driveway with basic hand tools... I have a shitty welder and have access to a good welder at work but that’s not something I can count on being able to use for long periods of time.
    98 Dodge Ram 1500
    2003 Jeep WJ 4” lift, 32” BFG Mud Terrains
    89 Suzuki Sidekick (long tube header, sawzaw lift kit, 31’s, lots of rust and FOR SALE!)
    2017 Suzuki DRZ400S
    1973 Bultaco Matador SD250

  18. #43
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    Quote Originally Posted by Keith View Post
    What vehicle is the best option for a 8.8 swap? Explorer? Ranger? I don’t want to get into a bunch of custom fab work, I’m doing this in my driveway with basic hand tools... I have a shitty welder and have access to a good welder at work but that’s not something I can count on being able to use for long periods of time.
    Explorer. You get 31 spline shafts and disc brakes. The Ranger 8.8 is closer to 65"WMS and dont typically have disc brakes. If you go the 8.8 route, you actually want to look for one w/o the limited slip. An aussie/lockrite locker isnt all that much money and way better than the factory LS. You cant simply remove the factory LS and add a locker, the carriers are different.

  19. #44
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    My $0.02:
    I have a factory LS in my 8.8 and I have no problems with it at all. It has tons more traction compared to an open diff. If you're being cost effective, the limited slip will probably be cheaper to get into than buying open diff and putting a locker in it. Plus the weak link in the 8.8 is the carrier (and the c-clips). So if you're looking to go locker, it's better to go with a carrier based locker (like ARB) as opposed to a lunchbox locker. And really, you're not going to blow up the carrier (or the c-clips) on a DD with a little mild wheeling.

  20. #45
    Less posting, more wheeling! joshs1ofakindxj's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by AngusGT View Post
    My $0.02:
    So if you're looking to go locker, it's better to go with a carrier based locker (like ARB) as opposed to a lunchbox locker. And really, you're not going to blow up the carrier (or the c-clips) on a DD with a little mild wheeling.
    Aussie locker for a D44A: $320, free install in your driveway
    ARB locker for D44A: $940, plus $225 for a bearing/seal/shim master install kit, plus the $200-$300 to pay someone to install it

    So that's an easy decision for me. Once you get used to driving with a lunchbox locker in the back it's a non-issue.
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  21. #46
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    Quote Originally Posted by AngusGT View Post
    If you're planning on welding on your own truss to the 44A, then an 8.8 wouldn't be that much different in price. Pre-made brackets/perches are $250, and for about $100 more you can have a truss added. So if you go the 44A route, you're looking at $200 for the axle, $200 for the truss/skid, and another $125 for a HD Diff Cover. So now that cheap axle swap is starting to get a bit more expensive. And all of this is excluding the fact you might run into issues with the 44A housing already being distorted. Which will cause the bearings to fail prematurely and require a full rebuild.
    I think you forgot to include the cost of a new driveshaft needed to hook up the 8.8. You also don't need the HD diff cover if you have a truss and skid. So that cost goes into both setups if so desired. If you look around you can also find D44a's for less than $200. Heck, I paid $400 for a freshly rebuild one (new master install kit, new limited slip, new seals) with 4.56 gears in it. Swapping the 35 for a D44a takes 2-3 hours. Welding and mods are optional and can be done later. Can't beat that in my book. If you swap axles, make it worth the effort and setup wontons to run 40s
    '02 WJ, 4" lift, 35s, 242HD, Ox locker, trussed Super30 front, plenty of leaks ... it's a Jeep thing.

  22. #47
    Less posting, more wheeling! joshs1ofakindxj's Avatar
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    Pffft, if you're doing wontons might as well do rockwells and 54's. Sheesh.

    Slippery slope!
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  23. #48
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    Quote Originally Posted by J.M. View Post
    I think you forgot to include the cost of a new driveshaft needed to hook up the 8.8. You also don't need the HD diff cover if you have a truss and skid. So that cost goes into both setups if so desired. If you look around you can also find D44a's for less than $200. Heck, I paid $400 for a freshly rebuild one (new master install kit, new limited slip, new seals) with 4.56 gears in it. Swapping the 35 for a D44a takes 2-3 hours. Welding and mods are optional and can be done later. Can't beat that in my book. If you swap axles, make it worth the effort and setup wontons to run 40s
    No new driveshaft needed. You have two options to adapt a 1310/1330 u-joint to the 8.8. Either a $38 adapter flange or swap to a traditional yoke for $~100.

  24. #49
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    Daily driver WJ on Rockwell’s... I’m in!!! I should just Lincoln lock them to save $ too!
    98 Dodge Ram 1500
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    89 Suzuki Sidekick (long tube header, sawzaw lift kit, 31’s, lots of rust and FOR SALE!)
    2017 Suzuki DRZ400S
    1973 Bultaco Matador SD250

  25. #50
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    Quote Originally Posted by joshs1ofakindxj View Post
    Aussie locker for a D44A: $320, free install in your driveway
    ARB locker for D44A: $940, plus $225 for a bearing/seal/shim master install kit, plus the $200-$300 to pay someone to install it

    So that's an easy decision for me. Once you get used to driving with a lunchbox locker in the back it's a non-issue.
    I think you missed the point of my post. The limited slip works just fine, especially when you're on a budget. Why incur the additional cost of a locker? And if you're going to install a locker later on, save up and get a carrier based locker like an ARB. The limited slip will provide plenty of traction for a DD who occasionally does some mild wheeling.

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