Looks like a good truck you got there!
Tires look good. Keep an eye on the fronts for wear. I was getting excessive wear so I adjusted the toe in to spec., replaced the shocks with the NAPA # I got from Steelsoldiers, and I ran higher pressure in the fronts, I think 70 PSI.
I also highly recommend the electric wiper conversion.
Sweet looking ride!
Never blame the beer. It's only there to lend a hand.
Oh, there are many plans for the truck but in no real order here it goes.
OD green monstaliner.
LED lights
electric wipers with windshield washer fluid
power steering from a c30 truck and hydroboost brakes
Install a tractor cab heater
Mount that knuckle boom crane I have, I'm debating whether to mount it in the bed and keep the bed 12' or cut the bed down to 10' and mount it between the bed and the cab. that 2ft would be enough to mount my lincoln engine welder back there as well, this is going to mainly a work truck, well a farmish innawoods property maintenance truck work anyway or maybe instead of dual rear axles I'll bob it when I cut down the stock bed at 10ft with a single axle it should still hold 2.5 tons easy.
upgrade the compressor for a better OBA supply and add more tanks.
Snorkel
pyrometer
Radio / internal comms
Maybe AC but atleast a fan
zombie lights.
11.00-20 G177's
Last edited by DeathBlade556; 02-06-2019 at 01:02 AM.
[I]"Its not a bondfire unless you can see if from space"[/I]\
TJ now with the power of a 5.2L vs 2.5L get same gas mileage....crap.
Sounds like you have some cool plans for this rig, I’m hoping to see a good build thread on it. I love the look of these trucks bobbed, but will be an awesome truck regardless of which direction you go!
Bobbing my truck and going to an M105 bed and single rear axle was probably the worst decision I made with that truck. Same speed, same acceleration, but with reduced bed space. I would not recommend it.
But it looks cool!...Originally Posted by joshs1ofakindxj
I would be using the stock bed to not have the wheel wells of the m105, I would just cut it down 24" to make room between the cab and bed for my crane and welder, so I would be keeping the same length and dropping axle, that rockwell weighs 650lbs plus 4 tire/wheels at 165 each(660) so that a decrease of 1310lbs no including the springs which I'll factor our for the weight of the crane ~300lbs (its a small one) and I have 502lbs for my welder, so it I could not cut into my gvwr too much and it its 12000 or less and I see alot of bobbed dueces are 10,500-11500 even with 395 tires. I can still run 5000lbs and still keep it class 6 for registration so only $383 per year
plus I wouldn't need to worry about spacing and rubbing when I go to bigger tires.
So it would be more like this or this than your typical bobbed deuce, just imagine a small knuckle boom and welder right behind the cab.
Last edited by DeathBlade556; 02-07-2019 at 11:45 AM.
[I]"Its not a bondfire unless you can see if from space"[/I]\
TJ now with the power of a 5.2L vs 2.5L get same gas mileage....crap.
That thing is awesome!
That does look like the right way to bob a deuce.
Yep, I like how it looks with the longer bed and single axle rear. They made a XM381 which was a single rear axle deuce, and its offroad capacity was still 5000lbs, and the current LMTV is a 2.5 ton with a single rear and similar wheel base.
now I would use a axle worth of braking but it a rear axle, the front does most of it. So I've been looking at the disc brake mods with ford F550 rotor and calipers for the front, and leaving the read drum.
I should be getting the spider clip for the IP tomorrow and I picked up the Oring this morning so hopefully I'll have here running sunday.
Though I was debating a second ago if I need to cut down the bed. I was looking at the knuckle boom, and I'm thinking I can cut down the base to just as large as the pivot unit (18"x16")and mount the motor/pump unit under the bed where the spare goes. Then make a subframe from some 3 or 4 inch c channel under the bed that will tie into the frame and a single post hydraulic drop leg, right under the pivot of the boom. If I did that I would still have enough room for the welder right next to it if I make a arm brace to park the arm over the welder when its retracted. And I would make a similar under bed mount for the welder so I could haul it off with the crane, in case a compressor/welder falls into my lap.
It would save me from having to make a bunch of welds on the bed. And it would make the welder easier to move etc. Now if I did this what corner of the bed do you think I should mount the boom on driver or passenger?
If I mount it passenger I have to get some longer hydraulic hoses, I need to get new hoses for the arm anyway so not that much of a problem.
But if I mount if driver side I would have the controlls right under the arm so sketchy if I'm lifting things, well unless a six spool, 3 position solenoid valve bank falls into my lap, then I'll make a remote control box.
Last edited by DeathBlade556; 02-08-2019 at 08:10 PM.
[I]"Its not a bondfire unless you can see if from space"[/I]\
TJ now with the power of a 5.2L vs 2.5L get same gas mileage....crap.
Ya, being under the lift at the controls isn't an option. Mount them under the driver door inside the tool box. Then you will be off to the side of a lift.
Ya mounting them under the boom is a bad idea, but I don't know if I could mount them in the box, and still use the boom to load equipment, Id be hoping in and out of the bed. to disconnect the boom, and man handle the part/etc into place
I might try to make a remove control box. Now to find some solenoids.
Only going to need a bank of six or seven 3 position 4 way solenoids, no that wont be expensive.... not at all.....
Why do a start projects!?!?!......
Last edited by DeathBlade556; 02-09-2019 at 11:07 AM.
[I]"Its not a bondfire unless you can see if from space"[/I]\
TJ now with the power of a 5.2L vs 2.5L get same gas mileage....crap.
I guess ideal mounting would be on the crane up in the bed so you're standing next to it when working. Either way, you're going to be jumping up and down to hook and unhook your pick.
Look at any truck set up with a knuckleboom. Do yourself a favor, cut the bed down, mount the boom behind the cab. It gives you most capacity at all points of reach. Also, if you've never worked out of a truck with a welding deck behind the cab, again best thing in the world. Chop the bed down, leave it a tandem, focus energy on other things. My .02 cents from being in the field service world and wrenching on different junk, with different trucks, and different people, welding decK and crane behind cab. Controls definately go behind cab in a toolbox, either side. If this was a truck on the road alot, the controls go on the curb side of the truck stay out of traffic. Your application, doesn't really matter.
97 XJ Clayton Longarms 35s locked etc.
94 YJ MTO
98 5.9 ZJ Limited alllll original
02 Cummins 6spd HO Studs, Sticks, Box, Pump...
I'm really liking the long bed bobber setup, I wouldn't be doing this for a while, so I have time to get some front M35 springs and a another set of 6 deuce rims for the 11.00-20's
As for the bed I've measured everything this morning, boom, bed, etc and If I center mount it I wont have room for my welder unless I cut down even more bed, so its going to have to be bed corner mount.
I only have 133" of arm and extension if I center mount it on the frame I'll be able to get to either side of truck by 88" which would be nice but wont have room for the welder unless I loose more of the bed so about 8 foot from 12 feet, and for my tools I'll need atleast 10feet
If I mount it driver corner mount it I'll have a 125" driver swing which will get me to almost of whole bed and a good reach to the driver side and a 50" swing over the first third of the passenger side.
Well from screwing around with the boom this morning I'm going to need some new valves and hoses one it froze solid and I ripped a hose when I tripped moving my jumping jack tamper. (if you want to know what the best gas powered construction tool to drop on yourself while running is, its not a tamper, I'll continue experimentation and let you know)
So I'm going the solenoid route. I can mount them on the arm and will only need to run the P/T lines from the powerpack vs everything. Also I'm going to go to a electric pump instead of the gas powered unit that is on the power pack right now.
The 'new' engine I have will need a funky mount its a good deal larger than the Tecumseh that was on there, I'm guessing the tecumseh was 5-8hp and this B&S is 12.5. I have horrible luck with small gas engines. Any time I need one to run it doesn't, if it was a wisconsin VH4 it wouldn't be a problem below zero? not a problem, actually had a hard time making it not run. (Seems the alternator will back feed the coil even if the power switch is off once you hit the alternator switch have to pull the coil wire) but B&S vertical shaft? pull that cord till my arms fall off!
I'll always have battery juice. I have a 12/24 solar panels that will trickle the system, so I'll ways have some kind of juice as long as that silly plasma ball keeps glowing.
If the sun stops shining we will all have bigger problems.
Now I have a few options for power units, I have a barnes pump/tank unit I got from Matt's garage sale before he moved, that has sat on my work bench since I got it.
(How many years ago was that 6? 10?)
I have a valex pump only unit this one is higher pressure, but would need a tank, which I have a 5 gallon reservoir in my shed. I already have these, so no cost really but/
Down side is there both 12v and I would need to run a 12v power system I'm already going to need 12v some some accessories, and I have a 120A single wire 10SI alternator I got it for my skidsteer, that was physically too big. But it would fit on the deuce engine easy.
Or I see a 24V monarch pump/tank unit with some D03 solenoids on ebay, for cheap, I would still need some extra batteries, so there isn't much of a price/weight difference but I could get away with less voltage conversion and small wire gauge. And I wouldn't need to run a dedicated 12V I could use a 24/12v dc-dc power convertor with a small buffer battery to provide 12V all my chargers (gps,phone, vhf radio, uv5r charger) my LED lights are already 12/24 dual voltage. And I have a 24V power inverter already from a firetruck I can use.
Decisions, decisions...
[I]"Its not a bondfire unless you can see if from space"[/I]\
TJ now with the power of a 5.2L vs 2.5L get same gas mileage....crap.
And I got it running!
Got home from work and found the package from ambac if you ever need parts for injector pumps call these guys.
Down side the package was ripped open but I found the clip on the stairs up to my porch hurrah!
When I got down to the truck it was already 18:00 but by 20:00 it was running great, till I found out about the poor mans security system somebody put in.
If the engine runs more than 2 minutes the horns go off, air, electric, and including the hidden air horn under the dash!
After unplugging every horn and sitting with at test lamp I back traced it to a timer relay tucked way up under the dash it tied into to the start switch or starter solenoid somewhere.
If I turn on the power nothing but as soon as you tap the start button the timer starts 2 minutes later, horns.
Its bunch of knotted wiring fun so I'll deal with it this weekend during the day.
I think I honked my neighbors out enough tonight.
[I]"Its not a bondfire unless you can see if from space"[/I]\
TJ now with the power of a 5.2L vs 2.5L get same gas mileage....crap.
That alarm is bizarre haha.
JUst add a second 12V system with alternator already. Get the TMAmerica bracket and ta cheap Chevy alternator. Find my wiring diagram on SS and go!
Thinking about in again I'm going to add a 12v system but for the hydraulic got the 24v pump, it was cheap enough($100) and came with a set of solenoid valves and I'll add two more batteries well 3 actually one more for the 12v system.
My SF97 came in the mail today finally! it was postmarked Jan 31th! How it took that long to come from the GSA office in philly I dont know
But its here now. Time to work on the jeep since the transmission up and stopped working on the way home from work today. So I'll go to AAA next week
Last edited by DeathBlade556; 02-14-2019 at 09:30 PM.
[I]"Its not a bondfire unless you can see if from space"[/I]\
TJ now with the power of a 5.2L vs 2.5L get same gas mileage....crap.
Glad to hear it's running! I've read about several guys on steelsoldiers that had that same issue with the clip. There is a thread where someone is trying to make a new one slightly thicker and heat treated to help avoid the issue, if you're interested in following along: heavier-duty-hydraulic-head-button-retaining-clips
That alarm is weird! I assume there had to be a switch of some sort to turn it off, so anyone who wasn't a thief could drive it. Not even worth trying to figure it out before ripping it all out though.
90 YJ with some stuff..
66 M35A2
Yep a lot of problems with that button clip thats why I ordered 3.I saw that thread on the heavy duty clips, he's still awhile away from producing them. If this clip fails any time soon I'll machine a retainer out of 4140 with set screws I should just enough room for a machined bucket retainer with a .065 thick bottom and side walls and not make contact with any rotating surfaces.
I found the switch! it was the map reading light! they replaced the lamp with a ground down bolt glued into the cap and rewired the socket so you turned it out a few turns and it cut power to the relay module. I'm putting my EGT gauge there so not a loss.
[I]"Its not a bondfire unless you can see if from space"[/I]\
TJ now with the power of a 5.2L vs 2.5L get same gas mileage....crap.
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