Tell me I dont need a M35a2c...

[DeathBlade556]

Well remember the last time I wanted a M35a2? well I'm looking at a M35a2c model this time. Over near somerset.
I hope I get it this time, always get outbid at the last minute. And I have the crane for it already
Though practically I do need a large truck to move equipment and my skidsteer soon and I need many more tons of gravel for my drive way at my house and property(175ish tons)
2 tons of gravel at a time is sketchy with both my trailer and TJ though the 5.9 doesn't seem to mind, the short wheel base on the other hand....
Now I just need to sell my rabbit truck as much fun as it is to make room for deuce, and this is where you tell me I dont need it. Though I guess I really do I borrow my buddies box truck to much.

[joshs1ofakindxj]

For what you just described, I think I would rather have a cheap dump truck just under CDL numbers. Unloading all that gravel without a dump will suuuuuuck.

[DeathBlade556]

I thought about a cheap dump, but the bed would be too short and hard to load pallets and etc onto, the cargo deuce has the folding bedsides.
For the gravel I have a skid steer to unload with I mean I'm already going to have to use it to move the gravely where I need it anyway.
Also this M35 looks very nice(from the pictures) and from talking to there shop mechanic very good condition other than the lift pump only need to get painted OD green once more to remove the fire engine red.

[joshs1ofakindxj]

The fuel pump in the tank is a common failure point. I think someone has figured out an over the counter solution. Sometimes it is a simple as a ground issue. The wiring definitely knocked mine out once. Unless you're running heavier waste oil, you should be able to start the truck without it. If not then you probably have a leak in the fuel system.

Rusty spots are typically the bed side bottoms, cab floor edges, and around the fenders so check those.

You will want the FDC (fuel density compensator) to be bypassed if it isn't already.

Was it ever upgraded to dual circuit brakes or is it still single circuit? That's really the scariest part about hauling with a deuce. Pop one brake hose and you've lost all brakes all over, and the emergency brake is a joke. Hell even losing air to the brake booster is terrifying from what I hear.

Has the exhaust been kept covered to keep rain out? If not, check the J-pipe for rust.

Does it have a winch? Cab heater? Soft or hard top? Spring seat? Air shift or sprag t-case? Just thing that add up.

Make sure the bushings on the control arms (dog bones) for the rear axles are in good condition. Replacing those is miserable. Check the front axle boots for tears.

You will have to make some kind of pusher for the skid steer to be able to reach all the gravel and push it off the bed. I don't think your bucket will have enough reach.

For towing, the frame rails are a width that work well with some readily available trailer hitches. You can find the hitch model on steel soldiers. You just have to drill holes to bolt it on. Or get a trailer that has a lunette for the pintle, but the height on a deuce hitch is up there.

You can convert your trailer lights to 24V bulbs or get fancy 12V/24V LED bulbs but that doesn't help with electric brakes. The ideal set up is the create a relay bank so you have a separate 12V trailer plug that has a direct feed from a brake controller and all the lights go from 24V to 12V through relays. This also requires on board 12V power source, either from a 12V alternator mounted on the motor or a fancy electrical gizmo thing that takes 12V from the batteries but keeps them loaded evenly.

I went the route of adding a 12V alternator to the motor (guy on steel soldiers sells an easy bracket) and running a third battery dedicated for 12V. Seemed to be the cheapest route if you have an extra battery laying around. 3 standard car batteries fit in the battery box if you don't use the pair of oversized (and not needed) military 12V batteries. 12V was also nice for running a radio. I made a wiring diagram for that set up that is available on steel soldiers somewhere.

[DeathBlade556]

The fuel pump in the tank is a common failure point. I think someone has figured out an over the counter solution. Sometimes it is a simple as a ground issue. The wiring definitely knocked mine out once. Unless you're running heavier waste oil, you should be able to start the truck without it. If not then you probably have a leak in the fuel system.

They did say it had a fuel issue, probably the lift pump from talking to them, I'm going to bring a 24v external pump, and some slow blow fuses incase its something simple.

The Rusty spots are typically the bed side bottoms, cab floor edges, and around the fenders so check those.

You will want the FDC (fuel density compensator) to be bypassed if it isn't already.

Was it ever upgraded to dual circuit brakes or is it still single circuit? That's really the scariest part about hauling with a deuce. Pop one brake hose and you've lost all brakes all over, and the emergency brake is a joke. Hell even losing air to the brake booster is terrifying from what I hear.

Has the exhaust been kept covered to keep rain out? If not, check the J-pipe for rust.

Does it have a winch? Cab heater? Soft or hard top? Spring seat? Air shift or sprag t-case? Just thing that add up.

Its been indoor for a while looks like they took care of it. Saw no rust in the pictures, it might be a airforce m35a2c so dual circuit brakes, here is to hoping. And looks like a air shift, but back pictues of inside so maybe not. (could be another switch of some kind)

No winch, but hard top.

Make sure the bushings on the control arms (dog bones) for the rear axles are in good condition. Replacing those is miserable. Check the front axle boots for tears.

You will have to make some kind of pusher for the skid steer to be able to reach all the gravel and push it off the bed. I don't think your bucket will have enough reach.

For towing, the frame rails are a width that work well with some readily available trailer hitches. You can find the hitch model on steel soldiers. You just have to drill holes to bolt it on. Or get a trailer that has a lunette for the pintle, but the height on a deuce hitch is up there.

I was going to get the skid steer up to the property and dig out the edge of this hill and dig in some logs to make a loading dock to drive on/off the bed.
Instead of 2wheel balancing self loading hijinks or making some beefy ramps. If I every leave the skid steer up there its the last time I'll see it.
The neighbors stole a 53' dry van that we were using as a shed, the rear had sunk into the ground so you couldn't even see the air brakes and they got it out of there and down the trail.

You can convert your trailer lights to 24V bulbs or get fancy 12V/24V LED bulbs but that doesn't help with electric brakes. The ideal set up is the create a relay bank so you have a separate 12V trailer plug that has a direct feed from a brake controller and all the lights go from 24V to 12V through relays. This also requires on board 12V power source, either from a 12V alternator mounted on the motor or a fancy electrical gizmo thing that takes 12V from the batteries but keeps them loaded evenly.

I went the route of adding a 12V alternator to the motor (guy on steel soldiers sells an easy bracket) and running a third battery dedicated for 12V. Seemed to be the cheapest route if you have an extra battery laying around. 3 standard car batteries fit in the battery box if you don't use the pair of oversized (and not needed) military 12V batteries. 12V was also nice for running a radio. I made a wiring diagram for that set up that is available on steel soldiers somewhere.

I was planning on a add on 12v system thought I might just run a DC/DC buck converter instead of a extra alternator for the time being to run small 12v gear. CB/FRS, chargers, etc

[DeathBlade556]

Well got a M35a2c!
$4100 was more than I wanted to spend, but its closer than any others than I've seen recently.

Here is the great picture from the listing....

[ridgerunner97]

Add an electric over hydraulic scissor lift dump kit to the bed and quit working like a slave mule. Your very handy, quick easy made into a dump truck happy day. What department had that truck up there?

[DeathBlade556]

Add an electric over hydraulic scissor lift dump kit to the bed and quit working like a slave mule. Your very handy, quick easy made into a dump truck happy day. What department had that truck up there?

I do have a large hydraulic clyinder I was going to use to build a dump trailer some time ago, might be good for this.

Forestry service depot in Windber

[joshs1ofakindxj]

Congrats! Don't forget to bring ear protection for the ride home!

If you're pushing material against the front of the bed with a skid steer the bed edge behind the cab, plan on adding some reinforcement up there. They get pushed forward and bent up pretty easily, especially on a drop side bed which has little reinforcement.

[Keith]

Damn that thing looks fun! Congrats on the new purchase!

[DeathBlade556]

Congrats! Don't forget to bring ear protection for the ride home!

If you're pushing material against the front of the bed with a skid steer the bed edge behind the cab, plan on adding some reinforcement up there. They get pushed forward and bent up pretty easily, especially on a drop side bed which has little reinforcement.

I active ear prop I have got a set of comtac 2 and bose triport tacticals I'll have to rig up a vic analog for.

I'm debating should I have it hauled dont want to have a break down on the way bay, and then have to have it hauled anyway.
Anybody know any local towing/hauling companies? I a few on steelsoilders PM'ed my but none have gotten back to me.

[joshs1ofakindxj]

Drive it!

I rode a motorcycle to Syracuse, NY, loaded it in the back of the M35A2 I bought, and drove it home on the seller's word it was roadworthy. Who dares, wins!

[DeathBlade556]

Drive it!

I rode a motorcycle to Syracuse, NY, loaded it in the back of the M35A2 I bought, and drove it home on the seller's word it was roadworthy. Who dares, wins!

From talking with the mechanic its filters or lift pump fuse. So I could get it started and driving, But still dont want to chance it. Talked to the point of contact and I have to tow it off site anyway. Then I have to deal this the SF97 and penndot to get the title, that is going to be fun.

[Keith]

From talking with the mechanic its filters or lift pump fuse. So I could get it started and driving, But still dont want to chance it. Talked to the point of contact and I have to tow it off site anyway. Then I have to deal this the SF97 and penndot to get the title, that is going to be fun.

I can only imagine how fun the penndot portion is going to be...
Congrats on the new truck!

[joshs1ofakindxj]

Ya let us know how that goes.

[oros35]

Welcome to the club!

I've never had problems with SF-97 and getting titles. I've done almost a dozen of them. Just have to pick a good notary. They have to process the paperwork by hand, send it in. Electronic forms will cause nothing but problems so make sure they don't try. When I walk in my notary gives me a look and asks 'What Now' cause I've always got something abnormal. But they always get it right on the first try.

I drove my Deuce from Columbus, they had it running and said don't stall it, batteries are dead. After 4 hours driving, made it home and shut it off. batteries were so dead it was like they weren't even there!
Drove an M813 5 ton home from Indianapolis. Same thing, our first stop was Napa for some batteries just in case. That was a pretty wild ride home.
And the last one was an M923 5 ton from Delaware. All the way down the turnpike this time of year! That one didn't have any issues but damn is that a big truck when your used to a deuce!

[DeathBlade556]

Anybody know some hauling/towing companies? I called around around for some quote and the lowest was McGann at $1100

[XJchris98]

Could try giving Magill's a call. They're out of Pitcarin, but would likely travel wherever. No idea what they would charge, but they haul stuff for us on occasion when we're in a bind. They have a really nice line-up of trucks/equipment...although I feel they end up with a new truck after every load they move for us lol.

There's always the U-Ship option as well. I've known people to use the U-Ship site to find a driver/company, then work out a deal on the side to avoid the U-Ship fee's/etc.

[Keith]

I have a buddy with a big trailer that would handle that if he’s interested. Where is it at and where does it need to go?

[Keith]

Also how big is it and what’s that thing weigh? I think he can put 11k on his trailer

[joshs1ofakindxj]

That truck weighs 13,000 lbs empty.

[Keith]

How far you need to move it?

[DeathBlade556]

About 100 miles.

[ridgerunner97]

McGann and Chester are good but they are pricy. Look for local heavy equipment contractors, also give Lander's on Rt. 30 in Irwin a call. They can move just about anything and have good equipment.

[DeathBlade556]

McGann and Chester are good but they are pricy. Look for local heavy equipment contractors, also give Lander's on Rt. 30 in Irwin a call. They can move just about anything and have good equipment.

I've gotten a few more leads, McGann was the $1100 and they were the cheapest of the first 5 I called.