"Fixing" a 14 bolt Gov-Lok

[gonecheenin]

Muahahahahahahahahahhahahaha
(This thread is actually about welding up a worn out 14b bolt Gov-Lok diff solid for trail use)
The Bee-lazer lighter & trimmed for the trail



Hey, wheres the diff?



Oh there it is





Hmm, got Gov-Lok










stuff I no longer needed removed from the way of the welding rods





In this next part, I already know I can't weld for crap so I don't want to hear it :098:

Bought Half done, I mig'd the teeth edges together & arc'd the corners with 1/8" 6011 rod then I'm filling it all in with 1/8" 6013 rod




Think thats hot?






Done till it cools then onto grinding & fitting

[UPJ Wheeler]

Wow, I thought those gov locks had a pretty good rep. with new clutches. I guess just not as good as the good 'ol zapper, lol. Nice pics BTW.

How does the pinion come out of the housing with the snub bearing support in the way? Just wondern'

[gonecheenin]

Wow, I thought those gov locks had a pretty good rep. with new clutches. I guess just not as good as the good 'ol zapper, lol. Nice pics BTW.

They work pretty decent most of the time but they have major issues for severe use (Plus this one was just plain worn completely out & for a pure trail rig I wouldn't have rebuilt it even if it had only cost me $20)

for severe use;

1) They are very impressive when working correctly, but still never lock up completely (specially on crazy obsticals)
2) They tend to allow a little wheel spin before the lock up which is really tough on driveline components!
3) Since they tend to allow wheel spin before engaging you also usually end up having problems staying on line through an obstical (on my pure trail rig constant & reliable tration is the absolute most important thing)

How does the pinion come out of the housing with the snub bearing support in the way? Just wondern'

Just comes out, ring gear never touchs the support

[andrew2516]

Looks good , I always wanted to do that but can't yet because mine is still a street jeep

[gonecheenin]

Looks good , I always wanted to do that but can't yet because mine is still a street jeep

I did that with a street & trail K20 on 37" MT's I had once

Held up fine, but street driving with a welded up diff & highly tractive tires kinda sucked a bit (wasn't horrible, but it took alot more steering effort to go anywhere but straight, and on top of that you HAD to keep the air in your rear tires even for even going straight to not be a pain in the arse)

For heavy street use, lockers for me from now on

[jeepxj3]

Looks good , I always wanted to do that but can't yet because mine is still a street jeep

dont be a b!tch, do it!! Who cares if it sounds like your doing burn outs around bends!

[gonecheenin]

Who cares if it sounds like your doing burn outs around bends!

Thats the cool part anyway

[OverkillZJ]

Home made spool

[gonecheenin]

got it all reinstalled & it works perfectly!

(no pics of the install since you all seen the good portion of the mods & everything else was simply a little fitment grinding & putting a diif back in like normal)
True rear traction kicks ass!


I also installed the EMS diff ring & cut off the bottom of the diff for a smooth housing which eliminated the very bottom bolt at the same time, but with the 1/4" thikc diff ring the cover seems to have sealed even with that bolt missing without any issues!!

I still have to do a little fine tuning with the grinder & build some diff cover protection off of the ring (which will help strenghen' the trimmed ring as well as protecting the cover from hits by rocks), but all in all it worked Sweeeeet (last night we were out & the diff never felt like it even hit anything!)

[YZEATER]

that should be standard procedure on a 14 bolt.

[jeepxj3]

Timmay over on Jeepin is running a 14 bolt under his XJ and hacked the bottom bolt off his 14 bolt, no issues at all. Ill find ya a pic.

[YZEATER]

are you going to move the shock hangers too? they hang down pretty low.

jeepxj3- i cut the bottom off, and then welded a plate to my 14 bolt.

[jeepxj3]

are you going to move the shock hangers too? they hang down pretty low.

jeepxj3- i cut the bottom off, and then welded a plate to my 14 bolt.

like the whole bottom was gone? Or a shave job like cheenin did?

[gonecheenin]

He actually chopped the housing apart & welded in a thick plate

are you going to move the shock hangers too? they hang down pretty low.

Not at this point, their not very low at all IMHO & this thing wasn't built for pure performance anyway (if I was building for pure performance I wouldn't have used a 500lb rear axle to begin with )

I'm just trying to "keep it simple stupid" for now, later on when I do the S-10 cab I may triangulate the rear shocks for flex & at that point I'll have to move the shock mounts by default

[YZEATER]

just less stuff to get hung up on and drag thru the mud. being that i moved the shocks i didn't need the stock hangers anyways. with that axle, won;t have to worry about it behind the diesel. but i see your gonna get rid of that too.

[gonecheenin]

with that axle, won;t have to worry about it behind the diesel. but i see your gonna get rid of that too.

I honestly love the diesel, but the fact of the matter is that light is very important for max capability

I lightened this blazer up majorly compared to a fully dressed one & allthough I could very much feel the difference in performance on the trail it still drives & wheels like a portly fawker

and the S-10 ext cab i wanna use isn't as light as it could be (std cab would be much lighter of course) but since I want the extra interior room I need to try & make up that weight in some other way

I'm actually searching for aluminum heads & headers for the 4.3 just to see if I can reasonably shave any extra weight off of the rig there.


I am completely confident the 12 bolt would have survived just fine behind even the diesel, but since it would have cost me money & time to regear it & install a different axle thats why the 14 bolt ended up being used in my "keep it simple stupid" rig.