Hahaha
Well, the rest of the parts finally came in. I now have everything to complete my front suspension, with the exception of shocks and bumpstops.
Got a little work done on the LCA's today. They will consist of 2" x 2" x 1/4" wall square HREW tube, 2 5/8" x 2 5/8" DOM sleeved poly bushings at the axle end, and 2 5/8" forged Currie Johnny Joints with 1 1/4" x 12 TPI studs.
The goods:
Incorporated a little skid with the design. The bottom edge will be wrapped up tight with the sleeve once I start welding them shut after mock-up:
I'm locking myself in the garage this weekend. How much I get done during the days will depend on how much boozin I do at night, but I hope to get the crossmember on, and the links finished up. Possibly even get the new high clearance link mounts and coil buckets fabbed up and installed on the front axle. More updates/pix as shit gets done.
Let me know if you need someone to hold things in place while you tack and what not this weekend, it's a wrenching weekend for me too and I'm close! I'm putting the Sammy's 2" coils on the back of the Buggy for the summer to fix that flex issue, they're lighter springs.
wife beater didnt make it last sat .did it? or did i some how miss it?
-Olive Drab '92 YJ 2.5L 4 cyl. 5" of Lift on 31s
-Red 95' Ford Mustang 3.8L V6
[URL]http://www.facebook.com/s.php?init=q&q=Josh%20Smith&ref=ts&sid=08224d5b5a2d538d53383c6dc50e92aa&n=-1&o=4&hash=386f3c35d984fbab966f16b2e50c02a4&sf=p&s=40#/profile.php?id=1715834776&ref=profile[/URL]
PM from [B]Gibson[/B]:
" **** off you donkey fistting pedofile "
looking good steve. glad to see everything is coming together nicely.
[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]
[SIZE=1]Buying a hooker for the conversation is like buying a porn film for its plot.[/SIZE]
[SIZE=1]'06 Silver Rubicon[/SIZE]
-Olive Drab '92 YJ 2.5L 4 cyl. 5" of Lift on 31s
-Red 95' Ford Mustang 3.8L V6
[URL]http://www.facebook.com/s.php?init=q&q=Josh%20Smith&ref=ts&sid=08224d5b5a2d538d53383c6dc50e92aa&n=-1&o=4&hash=386f3c35d984fbab966f16b2e50c02a4&sf=p&s=40#/profile.php?id=1715834776&ref=profile[/URL]
PM from [B]Gibson[/B]:
" **** off you donkey fistting pedofile "
Nobody wanted to booze tonight, so I bought me a case of Blue Moon and some ice, and headed to the shop. 5 beers down, and a few things done, some of which turned out to be phuck ups.
Parked the HP30 and threw the LCA's on, just to see how they worked out. The length hasn't been set yet, because the crossmember needs to be fabbed up, but I wanted to get a general idea, and have it mocked up for reference.
Did a little work on the JJ end of the UCA's to get them started. I had to use round tube adapters, because noone seems to make a square tube adapter to fit in 1 1/2" x 3/16" tube. I knocked the corners off the tube, creating an octagon like end. It gave me somewhere to put somewhat of a plug/tack weld to keep the adapters from ever having a change to rotate within the square tube. Slipped them in w/ lots of anti-seize on the threads of a bolt and burned them in place. Turned out rather well.
I also made up the link mounts that will attach to the LCA for the UCA. Damn, I love the plasma cutter more every time I use it. Unfortunately, after mock up, they are not tall enough. I didn't take in to consideration the fact that they sit diagonal on the LCA, and the corner of the tube hits the JJ. No big deal to make up some new ones in the morning. Consider it practice!
I really like your idea for the diagonal cuts on the 1 1/2 tube with the round adapter. I may have to borrow that idea. The "skid" idea for the bushing is pretty slick as well. Can't wait to see this beast up and running, alot of solid ideas in this.
02 Wrangler - Cut stretched and getting 1tons
Companies that have treated me well
[URL="http://www.4wd.com"]www.4wd.com[/URL]
[URL="http://www.completeoffroad.com"]www.completeoffroad.com[/URL]
[URL="http://www.currieenterprises.com/"]www.currieenterprises.com[/URL]
[URL="http://www.northridge4x4.com"]www.northridge4x4.com[/URL]
[URL="http://www.polyperformance.com/"]www.polyperformance.com[/URL]
[U][COLOR=#0066cc][URL="http://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com"]www.ruffstuffspecialties.com[/URL][/COLOR][/U]
[URL="http://www.tuffyproducts.com"]www.tuffyproducts.com[/URL]
[URL="http://www.ballisticfabrication.com/"][COLOR=#ffcc00]http://www.ballisticfabrication.com/[/COLOR][/URL]
[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]
Wow that looks good dude...I can't wait to see that thing rolling through the woods.
00 Cherokee Sport
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/__l_l_,\____\,___
l_---l_l__l---[ ]llllll[ ]
_.(o)_)__(o)_)--o-)_)
Looking like progress to me!
You can still salvage those UCA arm mounts....make a "longer" set (2) for the inside of the arms and use the ones you show in the picture as your "outside" set. Save yourself 1/2 the steel, and maybe re-use the leftover pieces (2) as your mounts to the crossmember. They could easily be reworked to fit there and you would only have to make 2 more.
Women have clothes and shoes....we get welding and tools!....and the women!
Whats leaking on the axle?? lol
Looks like some good progress though! How are they in comparison to Claytons arms? The look about the same from the pictures, but what about the size of the stock and the rod ends themselves?
If I ever went to LA's, it would be Claytons...but I liked how those turned out! Kinda makes me want to go do some fab...... ::
I couldn't think of anything better to do w/ the tube adapters. I'm pleased with how it turned out! I stole the skid idea from Mudforblood!
Thanks, hopefully soon!
Tried that. Didn't work out. Offsetting the height between the two would make for misalignment. I'm trying to keep everything in a neutral position to allow for full motion. Made all new ones 3/4" taller and they're perfecto.
Who cares what's leaking on the axle! No really though, I can't tell you how many times it pissed fluid out of the breather fitting and hose. I rolled it upside down countless times.
The arms are very similar to Clayton's. You can't get much better, IMO. I used much larger bushings on the axle end LCA.
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- 2 5/8" x 2 5/8" PolyPerformance greasable poly bushings (surprisingly flexy) with DOM sleeves at axle end LCA, 9/16" grade 8 hardware w/ crimplock nuts.
- 2 5/8" forged Currie Johnny Joints with 1 1/4" x 12 TPI stud, at crossmember end with 9/16" grade 8 hardware w/ crimplock nuts.
- LCA's are made of 2" x 2" x 1/4" wall HREW, seam side up.
- 2" forged Currie Johnny Joints with 3/4" x 16 TPI stud, on UCA at LCA end, with 7/16" grade 8 hardware w/ crimplock nuts.
- Open end at axle on UCA, using stock rubber busings (for now) and 7/16" grade 8 hardwarea w/ crimplock nuts.
- UCA's are made of 1 1/2" x 1 1/2" x 3/16" wall HREW, seam side up.
Every time I look at the HP30, I dislike it more and more. I was going to add new coil buckets and high clearance brackets. Changed my mind. I see 3/4 tons coming soon. Not wasting my time re-gearing or trussing...alloy shafts, or hub conversion...it's inevidable, this thing will end up barely, or not "street legal."
I got the links all fabbed up and tacked together. Uppers are at 15" center to center right now, and the lower length has yet to be determinded. Finished cutting the uni-shit off the MJ and now I'm plagued with figuring out how I want to plate the rails. I wanted to just get TNT frame stiffeners, but they will not fit the MJ. The crossmember is also giving me trouble, but I will have everything figured out for tomorrow. Phuck this shit for now, GO PENS.
im sure you could make a set of 3/4 tons fit and still look semi streetable... Bushwackers? (as much as I dont like them, they would get you as close as your gonna get)
1980 CJ-7 304 TH400 BW1339
1999 TJ Sport 4.0 32RH NP231
2001 XJ Sport 4.0 AW4 NP231
you could also run waggy axles. Only problem is the front will be LP44
1980 CJ-7 304 TH400 BW1339
1999 TJ Sport 4.0 32RH NP231
2001 XJ Sport 4.0 AW4 NP231
yeah I wouldnt either, I think a bronco axle setup is gonna be your best bet, and like I said before the front end can be adaped to 8 lug real easy with some Chevy outters. As for the rear, you will probably need to go disk and buy some 9in axles that are 8 lug. (should be cheap) 9in are pretty common, and rear axle shafts are cheap. Give a call to AlloyUSA, when your ready and see what they can come up with.
1980 CJ-7 304 TH400 BW1339
1999 TJ Sport 4.0 32RH NP231
2001 XJ Sport 4.0 AW4 NP231
Hey Steve, did you save your rear tails from the partz XJ?
1980 CJ-7 304 TH400 BW1339
1999 TJ Sport 4.0 32RH NP231
2001 XJ Sport 4.0 AW4 NP231
Yeah, I have them. I'm probably just gonna use LED's.
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Made lots more headway today. Did a little math, some trial and error, and got the crossmember made up. Also cut the lower arms to length, and got some really good ideas on the skid.
Didn't have any way to bend 1/4" plate for the open end on the UCA's, so I cut 1/2 way through w/ a cutoff wheel, and bent it with some heat. Then, put a nice bead down the outside corners.
That crossmember looks beef compared to the stock one. Why did you cut the front of it right up on the corner though? Looks like you could left a little there for some extra strength and not had any clearence issues, Although it may just be from the pics angle.
What kind of uni-bit/step-bit are you using and what speed? those holes look pretty smooth. I picked up a cheap HF set last time I was there have yet to take them outta the packaging though.
02 Wrangler - Cut stretched and getting 1tons
Companies that have treated me well
[URL="http://www.4wd.com"]www.4wd.com[/URL]
[URL="http://www.completeoffroad.com"]www.completeoffroad.com[/URL]
[URL="http://www.currieenterprises.com/"]www.currieenterprises.com[/URL]
[URL="http://www.northridge4x4.com"]www.northridge4x4.com[/URL]
[URL="http://www.polyperformance.com/"]www.polyperformance.com[/URL]
[U][COLOR=#0066cc][URL="http://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com"]www.ruffstuffspecialties.com[/URL][/COLOR][/U]
[URL="http://www.tuffyproducts.com"]www.tuffyproducts.com[/URL]
[URL="http://www.ballisticfabrication.com/"][COLOR=#ffcc00]http://www.ballisticfabrication.com/[/COLOR][/URL]
[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]
I didn't want to risk any clearance issues, especially considering the jam-nut is right at the edge of the crossmember. I kinda designed the crossmember around the Clayton's style, but without the removeable center section. The whole skid will be welded to the crossmember, and have flanges down both sides to attach to the uni-rails.
I am using an Irwin Uni-Bit. It's over a year old, and gets pretty regular usage, both in the shop, and at work. It sees my DeWALT 18v cordless, along with the drill press in the shop, so speed varies. I drilled those link mounts using the drill press, around 800rpm. Unfortunately, you have to drill from both sides on 1/4" plate, but the plus side is the nice little chamfered edge you can put on the hole to make for easy bolt entrance.
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