Originally Posted by ezman
You have to heat the cast iron up with a torch. Then weld it with nickel rods
You have to heat the cast iron up with a torch. Then weld it with nickel rods
When in doubt, put the hammer down
Torch preheat is almost a must...wouldn't go over about 1200* though. I've done a few cast welds using Lincoln Electric Ferroweld, and Softweld 99Ni. We learned about this for a few hours when I took welding classes.
Edit: Also, don't let it cool rapidly. It will almost certainly crack if you try and quench it with water. If you can get the bottom of the diff. in some sand that would work perfect.
Last edited by MF Steve!; 02-01-2008 at 11:11 PM.
If I wanted to hear from an ass, I'd fuckin fart.
'01 Silverado 2500HD crew, D.D./tow pig.
'86 Jeep MJ longbed 2wd SLOWLY evolving to '99 4wd <--FOR SALE
I've always just welded cast steel with high amperage 7018 rods with out any issues
No preheat, no post heat, no special cooling in anyway (just let it sit in the warm garage or warm weather & cool normally)
ANd everything I've ever welded has held up great
One fella on our board that build NP205 doublers for fullsize mud trucks hacks the output off the NP205, welds on a plate with 7018 rod, lets it crack, then goes over the welds again & has never had a problem
I know its far from right, but has always worked great (I think thats how YZEater did his shaved 14 bolt too)
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If you break it, then it needed upgraded anyway!
Control arms done and painted ..I notched the end for the bushing ,welded that and then strapped it with 1/4 ..The ends got drilled for grease fittings
Shock mounts are on the lowers due to the 3in front streach
Inner C cut off ,did i mention what a bitch this was ...It felt like i was grinding for a year ..Once you think the weld is ground off enough keep grinding ..If you keep hitting it with a hammer as you grind you`ll see a faint line develop all the way around ..Then find you biggest hammer and wack that sucker that your pissed at it ..After it came off i needed a nap ..LOL No really i cleaned it up with a 40g flapper disc so it would slide back on easier ..
I rotated the Cs to 7 degrees and then tacked them in place with 4 small welds ..
Those CA are sick! The pics don't do them justice.
Keep up the good work.
Thanks man ,
I Got the frame brackets cleaned off and ready to tack in the links mounts today ..Now i`ll cycle the axle and check for clearance or binding ..and onto tackbar fab and shit
This build keeps gettn better and better
'79 CJ7, rebuilt 258, HEI, T5 World Class, D300 Low max 4:1, Flat Belly, Narrowed D44 w/ true trac & diff gaurd, Widetrack AMC20 w/ superior shafts, Detroit locker & crane diff cover, 4" skyjacker lift, 2" BL, TJ flares, 35" tires, York OBA, YJ tub conversion, 6 pt. cage, F250 front shock towers
4.0 Head and TBI on the way
nice jack stands... i've got the same ones...
looks good man...
"When your god gives you lemons... you find a new god!"
few more shots making some progress but its slow due to weather ..i shouldnt have sold my garage so soon ,i forgot how bad it sucks to wrench in the driveway ..
Everything cycles fine without binding and is tacked in place
test fit the shaved 5:13s in the housing and see i still have some more clearance so i decided to shave the housing some more .
getting closer maybe shave another 1/8 off and it`ll be good ...damn this sucks
just wondering why you mounted your shocks with the bolt parallel to the axle instead of perpindicular...
looking good man...
"When your god gives you lemons... you find a new god!"
I agree, thats gonna cause binding and premature bushing wear.
1980 CJ-7 304 TH400 BW1339
1999 TJ Sport 4.0 32RH NP231
2001 XJ Sport 4.0 AW4 NP231
cause i over looked when i welded it up ,guess i was in a hurry ..it will get changed around eventually before finally assembely
I agree, thats gonna cause binding and premature bushing wear.
it actually doesnt bind as tested but will most likley eat bushings ..either way it will get changed
Looks great man!
If I wanted to hear from an ass, I'd fuckin fart.
'01 Silverado 2500HD crew, D.D./tow pig.
'86 Jeep MJ longbed 2wd SLOWLY evolving to '99 4wd <--FOR SALE
Make sure you do it before you flex it out: the eyes tear off of shocks when you screw up and mount them wrong, ask me how I know!cause i over looked when i welded it up ,guess i was in a hurry ..it will get changed around eventually before finally assembely
Noice
You sure are being anal about the diff clearance though, I mean dude-an 1/8 on an inch
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If you break it, then it needed upgraded anyway!
another 1/8 means around 1/4 total ..once the 1/2 plate is welded to the bottom i`ll be around 2 -3/4 gain in GC ..might be anal sure ,but i am only doing it onceNoice
You sure are being anal about the diff clearance though, I mean dude-an 1/8 on an inch
The 14bolt is shaved and plated ..turned out pretty nice ..heres whats going down with the diff cover ..i bought a 14b kit from Dan at ruff stuff ..it comes 2 pieces the bolt flange then the cover ...i`ll modify the flange to fit the new housing then welder up ..yeah seems simple ..
i also got the rear spring hangers tacked in and the leafs hanging in the rear ..looks like a ton of streach and the gas tank is for sure in the way ..guess i gotta order a fuel cell ..i might have to move the front spring mounts forward a bit i think its going to be longer than planed for if i dont ..
alot of parts came in so i`ll be making progress this weekend and maybe get it on some roller wheels ..i also have to hit the parts store for balls and stupid stu ..pics will be up later ...
looking real good man.
[CENTER]90 JEEP YJ, 3 1/2 lift, [/CENTER]
[CENTER]31x10.50x15 mudders, Snorkel, [/CENTER]
[CENTER]OBA setup, [/CENTER]
[CENTER]Front rock crawler bumper[/CENTER]
Looks good, nice shock mounts.
Everything looks good.
Custom Jeep MJ Buggy, HP60, FF14 Bolt, 5.3L LM7, NP241 on 40s
I'm really watching this build, I'm headed for almost the exact same stretch up front but with a D60. Are you going hysteer arms? and are you moving the steering box up/forward or working from stock location?
In the rear how much stretch are you going for? And are you gonna keep it street legal with the fuelcell outside the cab? I really like the shave on the ring idea and the plating of the poly bushings.
yes i`ll be using highsteer , the steering box will be moving forward also and clocked flat ..i was shooting for around 5 inches in the rear but i think i have more right now ..i might have to change a few things ..fuel cell will be behind the rear seat and boxed in ..
What leafs are you using in the rear, have any pictures of that setup?
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