ya steve gets around just fine on that thing. I do'nt know how he does it!Originally Posted by MF Steve!
ya steve gets around just fine on that thing. I do'nt know how he does it!
taking unsafe rigs to a whole other level
i'm a fan of santa cruz...
if you've been a hard tail junky then i'd stick with the hard tails... it's a totally different animal with the full suspension...
i always liked the chameleon...
"When your god gives you lemons... you find a new god!"
Yea, sorry, but good help is hard to find. I have been in the bike industry for about 15 years so I'd like to think I know what I am talking about. Unfortunately, as a manager I can't help every customer that walks in the door. We have had a few people who don't know what the they are doing when it come to small parts. Learn who to talk to and ask for them (ahem, Jake or my self (Jason)) if you have a technical problem. I firmly believe the Mechanics we have are the best in the city though.
The people you speak of I believe we have gotten rid of and they have since move on to the Trek store in east liberty. I believe the crew we have now is much more knowledgeable than we have had in the past. Just like any place you have to get to know the people who know what they are talking about.
Back on Topic. If you want to stay in the $1000 price range then do a Fisher Cobia. If you want the parts you are talking about you will be spending between $3000 and $7000 for a bike (a little over your budget). Oh and don't buy a Y bike, that is like buying a leaf sprung, drum braked sports car and hoping to auto cross it.
I think the 2008 x-caliber is the best buy in a hard tail 29er. At a little over 2k the 2008 Trek Fuel EX8 is one of the best Full squish bikes out there right now at that price.
Lastly, I try to keep the lowest prices in town on bikes, I price shop everyone in town in order to stay competitive and I will match any one on their prices.
Oh I forgot to mention, don't build your own, you get a package deal when you buy complete.
cool man, i always heard good things about you guys, i must have just had bad luck with the salespeople i got!
i have to say X2 for the cobia for the $.
In case anyone cares, here's a pic of mine and kim's setup.
mine: 06 Gary fisher Paragon
Juicy 7 hydrolic brakes
X9 components
Carbon bars
CK headset
ritchey stem
maxxis ignitor rear, IRC mythos front (have a bunch of different tires though)
100 mm travel Reba
Moab niterider HID headlamp
Kim's: 07 Tassajar GS Disc
taking unsafe rigs to a whole other level
getting the mtn bike bug again!!! Scoped out a few bikes this weekend, and came across a decent K2, anyone have any expierence with these?
I know, I still need to price some other bikes first, but can anyone give me a clue if this is a decent bike or not? I have been out of the whole MTN Bike loop for quite a few years now, its all greek to me.
I use to compete with an aluminum Schwinn Homegrown, and loved it until I grew out of the frame and into a JeepNow I need to get back on the bike and start riding, im getting too fat!!!!
OOps, I forgot to give details on the bike...
http://www.k2bikes.com/index.php?bra...&show=Expanded
FRAME - 4" TRAVEL FULL SUSPENSION, 6061 AL, REFLEX MOUNTAIN TUBING, FOR DISC BRAKES
REAR SHOCK - SR SUNTOUR EPICON DA, AIR SPRING & REBOUND ADJUST
FORK - ROCK SHOX DART 2, 100mm TRAVEL, WITH TURNKEY LOCKOUT
FRONT DERAILLEUR - SRAM X5
REAR DERAILLEUR - SRAM X5
SHIFTERS - SRAM X-5 TRIGGER
FREE WHEEL CASSETTE - SRAM PG-950 9 SPEED CASSETTE, 11-34T
CRANKSET - FSA DYNA DRIVE FOR POWERDRIVE BB
BOTTOM BRACKET - FSA BB-8420ST POWERDRIVE
CHAIN - KMC Z9000 WITH REUSABLE LINK
RIM - WTB SX24 DOUBLEWALL
TIRES - WTB MOTORAPTOR COMP, 26 X 2.14"
BRAKES - TEKTRO HYDRAULIC DISC BRAKES, 160/160mm ROTORS
BRAKE LEVERS - TEKTRO HYDRAULIC, STANDARD REACH
HEADSET - 1 1/8" THREADLESS, ZERO STACK
STEM - K2 BIKE FIT SYSTEM BY NVO, MELT-FORGED AL
HANDLEBAR - ALUMINUM RISER BAR
GRIPS - WTB DUAL-COMPOUND TRAIL
SEAT CLAMP - ALLOY, WITH QR
SEAT POST - 6061-T6 AL, 2D FORGED HEAD, WITH MICRO-ADJUST
SADDLE - WTB SPEED V SPORT SE
PEDALS - ALUMINUM MTB PLATFORM
RINGS - 22/32/42
FRONT HUB - ALLOY DISC, WITH QR
REAR HUB - ALLOY CASSETTE DISC, WITH QR
SPOKES - 14 GA STAINLESS WITH BRASS NIPPLES
Last edited by jeepxj3; 03-24-2008 at 02:52 PM.
1980 CJ-7 304 TH400 BW1339
1999 TJ Sport 4.0 32RH NP231
2001 XJ Sport 4.0 AW4 NP231
I'm going to fix my old Raleigh M60 (nothing compared to todays bikes) - just to see if it's something I could get back into again...
I would do tha, but the old schwinn is just too small for me anymore.... It was an awesome SUPER light bike, but I want a full suspension bike, not trying to kill my back.
1980 CJ-7 304 TH400 BW1339
1999 TJ Sport 4.0 32RH NP231
2001 XJ Sport 4.0 AW4 NP231
the season is upon us! i will be hitting hte trails hard starting in mid April....we should get a group together. i know a few of you are into this. lets get it togther!
thanks for reseructing (sp) this post jason!
'88 4 Runner
'94 ZJ
'05 Saab 93 Turbo
'09 Nissan Ultima
'10 Liberty Limited
No problem, Hows Texas?
1980 CJ-7 304 TH400 BW1339
1999 TJ Sport 4.0 32RH NP231
2001 XJ Sport 4.0 AW4 NP231
I dunno Jason, that is a lot of bike...similar to mine. Keep in mind that you're exerting a lot more to compensate for the rear suspension. I don't mind the rear suspension on mine...just something to consider.
If I wanted to hear from an ass, I'd fuckin fart.
'01 Silverado 2500HD crew, D.D./tow pig.
'86 Jeep MJ longbed 2wd SLOWLY evolving to '99 4wd <--FOR SALE
Get a 29er hard tail.
I am guessing that bike is around the 1000-1200$ mark by the level of parts it has on it. For that money you will get a much nicer hard tail and it will last you much longer. If you start riding hard you will wear out that K2 pretty quick. If you want a full suspension you have to spend at least 1700$+ to get one that will hold up to some decent riding. I could go on for a long time on all the parts on that bike that will give you a headache in a year or two or six months when they begin to show signs of wear.
You are exactly right. Rear suspension is nice but you have to spend more to get it.
Ill take some of your advice into concideration, but I dont have that great of a back, thats one of the reasons I want to shy from a hardtrail. Hardtails are nice, I use to ride a Schwinn homegrown, and it was a decent bike, but I really want to get into some down hill action and full suspension would be setup alot nicer for this.
1980 CJ-7 304 TH400 BW1339
1999 TJ Sport 4.0 32RH NP231
2001 XJ Sport 4.0 AW4 NP231
i'm not a huge K2 fan . . . . i dunno, they just don't do it for me.
as far as full sus. as long as you're in the 3" range (travel) you should be fine for XC.
go on www.mtbr.com and read the reviews on the bikes. also make sure to read the "expert" reviews on them as well.
some bikes are more suited to different terrain.
and don't go by the price tag. you can take a mongoose, and toss some good parts on it, and have it cost 3,000 bucks, but you still have the mongoose geometry.
taking unsafe rigs to a whole other level
i'm a big fan of niner bikes . . . .
taking unsafe rigs to a whole other level
If you are looking to do some down hill then this is totally the wrong bike for you. The first thing you will break is that single bolt seatpost, second you will blow the rear shock out followed by the fork. The XC geometry will want to pitch you over the bars constantly.
[spam]
Look at a Cannondale prophet, I will have to check on the pricing but I think I should be able to get you a Prophet 6 for slightly more than that K2. While the Prophet is not a DH bike it is made for more aggressive riding and will much easier to ride fast downhill. Also keep in mind I can do 12 months 0% financing on anything. So the few more dollars you are spending can be financed and paid off over the course of a year.
Sorry about the spam.
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soft tails are where its at in my opinion... if you get a decent rear shock you won't even notice it...
shit... i'm 230lbs and with the fox dhx 5.0 i can climb like my old hard tail... i don't know anything about that rear shock... but if you are over 170lbs and/or ride hard not too many air shocks out there that can handle that...
what type of riding are you going to be doing... xc... free ride/all mtn... commuting... if you are going to do all mtn stuff... you want a full suspension bike... like i said earlier... i'm a big fan santa cruz...
"When your god gives you lemons... you find a new god!"
All Mountain is what im looking for, little bit of everything.
1980 CJ-7 304 TH400 BW1339
1999 TJ Sport 4.0 32RH NP231
2001 XJ Sport 4.0 AW4 NP231
how much do you weigh... and how tall are you...
i'd check out mtbr.com and check out all the components... they have a wide array of reviews on almost everything for mtn bikes... if you are going to do trails with log rides or anything of the sort you will want a bash guard...
"When your god gives you lemons... you find a new god!"
im 5'7 weigh about 170. I allready checked out the site, its pretty overwelming to say the least.
1980 CJ-7 304 TH400 BW1339
1999 TJ Sport 4.0 32RH NP231
2001 XJ Sport 4.0 AW4 NP231
I am not a big fan of MTBR, it seems like most of the people on there are 12year old punks. There is a lot of misinformation on that site. If you take everything on the site with a grain of salt you can pick up some good info. You are right it is very overwhelming.
true true...
with your build you'd be fine with a small to med. xc frame and any decent air shock...
nowadays most decent shocks are tuned to not have pedal bob...
"When your god gives you lemons... you find a new god!"
...... .... .. ......
I'm still fine tuning my morse code skills but I think I just about got the whole message.
BTW I have no input on those pedal powered doohickys. If it doesn't have a motor it's not for me.
"Hi" Jeff!
I used to know Morse, now I don't know anything but bad ****ing english!
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