back in teh day, when i used to drive sports cars, on teh bigger cars we would run subframe braces for the unibody.
They really stiffened things up.
back in teh day, when i used to drive sports cars, on teh bigger cars we would run subframe braces for the unibody.
They really stiffened things up.
taking unsafe rigs to a whole other level
even though the rear hatch is fiberglass on his model, it does add to the overall structrual support to the vehicle. And yes I have flexed my old red XJ out back in when I was in college on a big ice pile, I kept my back pack in the back, and when I went to open the hatch to grab it I couldnt close it because the body was twisted so much.
Im not saying that its not a good idea, but you may want to rethink your direction on this...
1980 CJ-7 304 TH400 BW1339
1999 TJ Sport 4.0 32RH NP231
2001 XJ Sport 4.0 AW4 NP231
put a brace behind the seats and some kinda harness. yes I know a roll cage would be better but who needs doors and a roof. My tj evens says that the doors and roof won't protect me incase of a rollover. It's on a sticker right there above the windshield.
UPDATE!!!
Finally I can get back to working on it...
Put the 33" TSLs on it the other night and it looks badass.
So far today...
-changed oil (went to oversized filter)
-fixed leaking heater lines
-fixed the no-spark problem (CPS wasn't grounding)
-ripped out the dana 30
I'm going to truss the dana 30 and make control arm mount skids. At first I was just going to replace the leaking seals but I figured what the hell, might as well pull the axle and add some beef to it since it will probably last longer than the jeep.
Also need to
-finish rewiring the CPS
-relocate the brake line mounts lower
-fab a rear driveshaft
-fab a tie rod
-fab a t-case skid
I'm also debating on putting in some F150 coils and dodge dakota leafs I have for more lift but I'll have to wait and see about that.
Who knows what else will pop up...
Last edited by joshs1ofakindxj; 06-04-2008 at 11:10 PM.
I realize I'm quoting an old post, but...
Look at the picture's of Dave's YJ (notmyj) in the Memorial Day Pictures thread.
He was sitting stationary on the waterfall when the undercut gave way. He didn't have the option of "just don't roll it". The rock ledge that was under his tires decided it didn't want to be there anymore.
Short of Matt @ the SHBC car show, I don't personally know anyone that intends on flopping their junk.
Last edited by LordAthens; 05-31-2008 at 06:07 PM. Reason: Fat fingers, bad spelling
-Brandon
99 TJ
"Well, you have to know these things when you're a king, you know."
lol.. Yeah This is so true! I tried to open my hatch to get a drink out of the cooler to find out my hatch didn't open till I had the jeep back on the trailer lol.. Solution to that was Remove the rear glass in the hatch and reach in
Josh I rigged up some d hooks on my unibody in the rear like you have done with regular hooks and to be honest with ya I laughed and thought they would be worthless but I have been swamped and Yanked out with them normous times with out any issues!
And if your looking for cheap suspension parts I got a ton of them laying around.. 3 inch coils.. shocks.. 6 inch leafs...
Now my main question for you is Why? Why you building another jeep to do the same job you built you 89 for? Paying for double the lockers.. Weaker rear axle.. etc etc? I know your like me just like to play but I ve been wondering
93xj - best $200 dollars I ever spent
91Xj - 33inch TSL's - Some Lift -- Trailer Queen- sold
87xj - 33's 5 inch lift toy - sold
99xj - 31's 4 inch lift to nice to beat so I sold it
01xj - offroad bumpers lift n tires soon
Any chance you could unbolt the d-hooks and see if the holes got any bigger or any signs of stress are shown on the unibody? Just curious as to why you did that in the first place when you thought they were going to be worthless? Were any of the "normous" pulls at an angle?
Last edited by SirFuego; 06-01-2008 at 12:30 PM.
[URL="http://www.pgh-offroad.com/forum/showthread.php?t=7670"][/URL]
Some of the pulls was around a 45 degree angle with success.. Im not saying these are bullet proof but I am just impressed they actaully held up! Only reason I mounted them like I did was because I was planning oon going to a meet on here and I didn't want to come out and get stuck with out no tow points so I slapped some d Rings on for that day
93xj - best $200 dollars I ever spent
91Xj - 33inch TSL's - Some Lift -- Trailer Queen- sold
87xj - 33's 5 inch lift toy - sold
99xj - 31's 4 inch lift to nice to beat so I sold it
01xj - offroad bumpers lift n tires soon
93xj - best $200 dollars I ever spent
91Xj - 33inch TSL's - Some Lift -- Trailer Queen- sold
87xj - 33's 5 inch lift toy - sold
99xj - 31's 4 inch lift to nice to beat so I sold it
01xj - offroad bumpers lift n tires soon
Well its just getting out of hand. Wheeling this jeep without a care for the the jeep was the main reason but its just been evolving into something more fun than my red Cherokee since the doors are off and the fenders are trimmed and all, so why not. I'm not doing lockers or axle upgrades this year (except maybe swapping in an 8.25) and for all the more I do, its plenty of jeep for now. Full widths and lockers are further down the road, even though I might be getting a 77 Ford HP D44 soon.
The red Cherokee will start getting wheeled again when I move up to Rochester in the fall cause I can't take the green Cherokee up there with me.
My original question about unbolting them was serious. Just because it has held up to four months of wheeling and getting pulled out numerous times doesn't convince me in the least that it's a "good" or "safe" idea. My concern is that each pull is putting too much stress on the mounting points thus causing it to eventually fail.
My main concern is that your justification and support for doing it might lead other people to do the same thing in order to save a few bucks.
I will admit that I have not seen "proof" that such a set up will fail (and I hope I never do, because flying tow points are never a good thing), so that is why I am asking for pictures. Something like tow points, in my mind, should be "bulletproof". Safety and responsibility should be the utmost concerns for any four wheeler, so I hope you can appreciate my concern for safety in this case.
Sorry for the hijack.
Last edited by SirFuego; 06-03-2008 at 01:24 PM.
[URL="http://www.pgh-offroad.com/forum/showthread.php?t=7670"][/URL]
To be honest I never really thought about flying tow points.. and misleading,, Basically now that you got me thinking about it ill pull them off and check them out and get pics.. Can't tell you when exactly and most likely reinforce them because i love them where they are for Hauling and retrieving!
Another Idea I got from the russians was to use a chain to hang from each d ring and pull from the center to use the equal amount of tension on each side..
93xj - best $200 dollars I ever spent
91Xj - 33inch TSL's - Some Lift -- Trailer Queen- sold
87xj - 33's 5 inch lift toy - sold
99xj - 31's 4 inch lift to nice to beat so I sold it
01xj - offroad bumpers lift n tires soon
next yourgoing to say that you use only straps with metal hooks.
recovery is serious business. secure recovery points, no chains and no metal hooks are best.
yes, people use chains, but i won't be around to see it.
people do, do what you are talking about with tree savers. i woud be ok with that.
I know if you came to a trail ride and I was there...I wouldn't pull you out with tow points like that...it wouldn't be worth risking my own life. Stock, OEM tow hook brackets do not just bolt into 2 holes and they do use nut strips(stock even makes me nervous!).
Either way I'm not trying to be a dick but this site is here to help fellow wheelers be safe and avoid bad publicity for the 4x4 community.
Buy tow hooks, or a bumper.
Heres the stocker...
00 Cherokee Sport
__________
/__l_l_,\____\,___
l_---l_l__l---[ ]llllll[ ]
_.(o)_)__(o)_)--o-)_)
I spent alot of time on my Grands bumpers for exactly that reason
Which is why they are tied into the uni-body in 12 points with grade 8 hardware & sandwich plates
_________________________________________________________________________
If you break it, then it needed upgraded anyway!
Ok, since this past weekend...
Dana 30
-simple 2"x3/8" strap truss across the top of the axle
-fabricated 1/8" LCA mount skids
-extended shock mounts 3" and trimmed for LCA flex
-new seals
-new driver side u-joint
-ford fullsize bronco coils and 1.75" spacers
-painted the cover a lovely shade of green
also
-relocated front brake line brackets lower so I don't need longer brake lines
-fabricated a heavy duty rear driveshaft using the factory ends and sch40 pipe over them (about 1/4" thick)
-fabricated a heavy duty tie rod by straightening the OEM rod and then clamping it between two pieces of 1"x1"x1/4" angle and then welding it all up to make a square tie rod
-swapped in a drag link that wasn't bent
-picking up some used JK shocks tomorrow
still need to
-fabricate a simple front bumper with solid tow points
-fabricate track bar bracket brace and maybe relocate axle mount
I'm thinking Dana 35 will need
-simple truss
-dodge dakota AAL with 3 degree shims
OR swap in a Chrysler 8.25 rear axle if I can find one with 3.07 gears and lincoln lock it.
check dawsons junkyard in heman pa 724 283 6000
99'tj 5'' locked cocked and ready to rock...on 35's---sold
05 rubicon soon to come
[I]You're keyboard must be different from mine... I have [B]F1[/B], [B]F2[/B], etc. I don't see an [B]FU[/B] key...[/I]
We cannot defend freedom abroad by deserting it at home.
Thanks!
Today I got the axle in and it looks like I might need Wrangler brake lines in the front for the lift. O well...
Pictures coming soon...
where you get the axle from
99'tj 5'' locked cocked and ready to rock...on 35's---sold
05 rubicon soon to come
[I]You're keyboard must be different from mine... I have [B]F1[/B], [B]F2[/B], etc. I don't see an [B]FU[/B] key...[/I]
We cannot defend freedom abroad by deserting it at home.
There are currently 1 users browsing this thread. (0 members and 1 guests)