Engine Oil

[jeepboy95]

Got a question its time to change my oil Engine has about 3000miles on it
its a 4.0l what oil do you guys recomend.

[limegreentj]

i use full synthetic mobil one.....good stuff, and they claim you can drive 15 thousand miles between changes

[XJchris98]

Mobil Clean 5000 here.

So far im really happy with it. I try to still change it around the 3k mark, but I have let it go to about 4k and it came out goldish in color. For not being a synthetic, its pretty good.

[joshs1ofakindxj]

once a year

[mudb8]

I'm not a fan of the synthetic stuff here...
when the oil is change at 3000 miles the advantages are little and the cost is high...I've seen the dyno's and charts and...ect.

straight 30wt of your choice....

when the oil looks clean for over 3000 miles thats telling me that the detergent isn't doing its job at keeping the engine clean and free of deposits.

I have run synthetics in the diesel at 15,000 mile intevals, the oil presure has never been the same since,
older engines tend to develop leaks also from the thinner lubricant..

[jimmyc751]

I'm not a fan of the synthetic stuff here...
when the oil is change at 3000 miles the advantages are little and the cost is high...I've seen the dyno's and charts and...ect.

straight 30wt of your choice....

when the oil looks clean for over 3000 miles thats telling me that the detergent isn't doing its job at keeping the engine clean and free of deposits.

I have run synthetics in the diesel at 15,000 mile intevals, the oil presure has never been the same since,
older engines tend to develop leaks also from the thinner lubricant..

x2

[mudb8]

I will however use it in the gear boxes and t-cases...non detergent,
not in the engine though...

[XJchris98]

when the oil looks clean for over 3000 miles thats telling me that the detergent isn't doing its job at keeping the engine clean and free of deposits.

Im not saying it comes out golden crisp and clear, but its not as black and dirty as some oil i've seen come out after the same number of miles.



I agree about synthetic though. Plus, in the rare case you have to get oil in a pinch, its alot easier to find dino oil than synthetic.

[Bill]

I have always used good ol' Castrol.

[MF Steve!]

Castrate.

[cjw94xk]

whatever your owners manual says... I am a strong believer in every 3k.

[andrew2516]

oil

[rodeo's-r-us]

ROYAL PURPLE, make no mistake that synthetic is better! Dyno tests have shown with no other engine mods just changing to this oil will increce your HP! Less friction= more power.

[steveg0690]

Sorry guys, I'm a pennzoil man myself. That't the only oil that when you tear down a 100,000m engine that has been running it, it still looks like new inside. You can tell it was taken care of. Change it every 3000-6000m depending on the type of driving you under go.

[joshs1ofakindxj]

oil

710

[stillersfan]

i like adding lucas with mine wether its synthetic or straight... i do run synthetic on my 87 due to the mileage and only run regular 30 on my honda but i guess its mostly a preference thing.

[DMG]

I'm not a fan of the synthetic stuff here...
when the oil is change at 3000 miles the advantages are little and the cost is high...I've seen the dyno's and charts and...ect.

straight 30wt of your choice....

when the oil looks clean for over 3000 miles thats telling me that the detergent isn't doing its job at keeping the engine clean and free of deposits.

I have run synthetics in the diesel at 15,000 mile intevals, the oil presure has never been the same since,
older engines tend to develop leaks also from the thinner lubricant..

Sorry but this is wrong.

Use the correct weight multiweight oil specified by your vehicles manufacturer. After it gets 50k-100k miles on it you can go a little thicker to make up for wear. Good luck getting anything covered under factory warranty if you use the wrong oil. The wrong oil will SERIOUSLY cause problems for motors with variable valve timing or oil actuated cam chain tensioners.

The reason detergent oils come out clean is that they have pretty mild detergents that don't take all the crud out of a motor at once. You have to use them regularly and you wouldn't want all the crud loosened up at once, it could plug your oil passages and oil pump pickup.

Synthetics are not neccesarily thinner (Mobil 1 is). Under a microscope, oil looks like ball bearings. Synthetic is modified to make the ball bearings a more uniform size and more round.

Any modern oil with the proper API rating (or newer) for your vehicle in the correct weight should be fine. Change it and the filter at 5,000 miles.

In most of my vehicles I run Mobil 1 or Castrol 10w30 and a factory oil filter with a 5k interval but any good oil/filter will work.

[DMG]

Sorry guys, I'm a pennzoil man myself. That't the only oil that when you tear down a 100,000m engine that has been running it, it still looks like new inside. You can tell it was taken care of. Change it every 3000-6000m depending on the type of driving you under go.

If you have to tear down an engine with only 100k...:icon_fU:

[Seismik]

My old 351M in my '78 leaked like a stuck pig, until I started using Mobil One. Sealed her pretty good, still leaks a little, but nothing like it used to. I used to buy oil by the case to keep in the truck, just to keep her topped off.

We are now a synthetic household (except in Jay's diesel). Everything else we drive gets Mobil One (and three of our vehicles are 4.0L Jeeps). I took one to 250K (100K miles with a knock in the motor) before it finally went. The three we have now are all pretty high mileage and still running strong.

[mudb8]

thats almost as good as the guy saying he went from 8mpg to 16mpg from using grafitte wheel bearings, dyno's do not produce real world results in a controlled environment with a fan blowing hurricane force winds through the radiator...synthet6ics obviously have advantages but lets get real and use regular service intervals.

there's nothing scientific about maintenance

who actually keeps thier daily drivers longer than it takes to pay them off anyhow? it makes no sense to spend all that extra coin for the next owners benifit..it may even get crashed..so then wheres the gain?

then there's the 4x4 crowd playin in mud and water...so ya just blew all that money cause ya gotta drain it out to get rid of the contaminents.

enviornmental conditions such as extreme heat or cold, heavy towing and racing, dictate the correct wieght of oil that needs to be used...manufacturer recomended ratings are for normal and emmisions conditions that fit the needs of some motorists...I use 30wt delo because it fits the bill for my usage....hmm I just ran out of smart alec comments...maybe more later!

[gilly95]

agip with a little lucas stabilizer

[gonecheenin]

thats almost as good as the guy saying he went from 8mpg to 16mpg from using grafitte wheel bearings, dyno's do not produce real world results in a controlled environment with a fan blowing hurricane force winds through the radiator...synthet6ics obviously have advantages but lets get real and use regular service intervals.

there's nothing scientific about maintenance

who actually keeps thier daily drivers longer than it takes to pay them off anyhow? it makes no sense to spend all that extra coin for the next owners benifit..it may even get crashed..so then wheres the gain?

then there's the 4x4 crowd playin in mud and water...so ya just blew all that money cause ya gotta drain it out to get rid of the contaminents.

enviornmental conditions such as extreme heat or cold, heavy towing and racing, dictate the correct wieght of oil that needs to be used...manufacturer recomended ratings are for normal and emmisions conditions that fit the needs of some motorists...I use 30wt delo because it fits the bill for my usage....hmm I just ran out of smart alec comments...maybe more later!

First off spanky, theres no 100 mpg water carb involved here, that old 351M stopping leaking/using anywhere near as much oil once we switched to 15w50 Mobil 1 full synthetic
We changed nothing else, and about 3-5000 miles after switching to synthetic Mobil 1 15w50 it went from using a quart of oil per tank of gas to using a quart of oil per 2000 miles, so you explain it.

The reason we switched to synthetic however had nothing to do with that, I switched it to synthetic because that old engine had a bad main bearing knock (like most of those old modifieds) that required heavy weight 20w50 oil & a quart or two of Lucas to get it to quiet down.

But in winter that thick mixture kept the engine from building oil pressure for WAY to long of a period of time during cold start up (take conventional 10w40 & full synthetic 10w40, stick them in the freezer overnight, then the next morning shake them & tell me theres no difference there smart guy) so the synthetic was our solution to that.
Plus that old engine would flicker the oil pressure light at hot idle in gear with 20w50 conventional oil + Lucas, but with the 15w50 synthetic that light never showed up again.


Second, Seismik & I do use regular service intervals, We use synthetics for the superior viscosity stability & protection, not to make up for being lazy. However if we do run into a situation where the oil can't be changed right at 3000 miles, its nice to know that you have a margin of error available where the additives in convetional oil would have already broke down.


Third, new vehicles are a waste of money, everything we buy is already a used vehicle & since people like you have already did the bare minimum of maintence, the synthetic oil helps slow down any further wear in that engine/driveline's already shorter life


I hate mud & water, I avoid that high school style wheeling anytime I can (however if I was into it & was changing fluids that often, I would probably use conventional fluids also)

As for straight 30 in a modern vehicle, are you freakin' serious??????????????
Christ even my Grandfather got over that ole' wives tale!




And here is the kicker, you remember that viscosity stability at all temperatures I mentioned?
Well I even taught an old dog mechanic a new trick with that one on an S10 he was going to junk because it would shut off when hot due to low oil pressure (dual function oil pressure switch shuts the fuel pump down in the case of low oil pressure). After a very long arguement I convinced him to try 15w50 full synthetic in that 250,000 mile 4.3, and HOLY COW it stopped shutting down when hot????????????????????????????????????????????
Hmm, must have been graphite wheel bearings he installed at the same time or something




Anyway, if you don't believe in synthetics thats fine, I could care less honestly.
But theres no way I'm not gonna try to stop you from polluting others minds with your old fashioned "rotary phones are safer" mentality.

[Seismik]

who actually keeps thier daily drivers longer than it takes to pay them off anyhow?

Hmmm.....then I guess according to you, I should have sold it the day I bought it, since I paid cash for mine.

First off spanky, theres no 100 mpg water carb involved here, that old 351M stopping leaking/using anywhere near as much oil once we switched to 15w50 Mobil 1 full synthetic
We changed nothing else, and about 3-5000 miles after switching to synthetic Mobil 1 15w50 it went from using a quart of oil per tank of gas to using a quart of oil per 2000 miles, so you explain it.

The reason we switched to synthetic however had nothing to do with that, I switched it to synthetic because that old engine had a bad main bearing knock (like most of those old modifieds) that required heavy weight 20w50 oil & a quart or two of Lucas to get it to quiet down.

But in winter that thick mixture kept the engine from building oil pressure for WAY to long of a period of time during cold start up (take conventional 10w40 & full synthetic 10w40, stick them in the freezer overnight, then the next morning shake them & tell me theres no difference there smart guy) so the synthetic was our solution to that.
Plus that old engine would flicker the oil pressure light at hot idle in gear with 20w50 conventional oil + Lucas, but with the 15w50 synthetic that light never showed up again.


Second, Seismik & I do use regular service intervals, We use synthetics for the superior viscosity stability & protection, not to make up for being lazy. However if we do run into a situation where the oil can't be changed right at 3000 miles, its nice to know that you have a margin of error available where the additives in convetional oil would have already broke down.


Third, new vehicles are a waste of money, everything we buy is already a used vehicle & since people like you have already did the bare minimum of maintence, the synthetic oil helps slow down any further wear in that engine/driveline's already shorter life


I hate mud & water, I avoid that high school style wheeling anytime I can (however if I was into it & was changing fluids that often, I would probably use conventional fluids also)

As for straight 30 in a modern vehicle, are you freakin' serious??????????????
Christ even my Grandfather got over that ole' wives tale!




And here is the kicker, you remember that viscosity stability at all temperatures I mentioned?
Well I even taught an old dog mechanic a new trick with that one on an S10 he was going to junk because it would shut off when hot due to low oil pressure (dual function oil pressure switch shuts the fuel pump down in the case of low oil pressure). After a very long arguement I convinced him to try 15w50 full synthetic in that 250,000 mile 4.3, and HOLY COW it stopped shutting down when hot????????????????????????????????????????????
Hmm, must have been graphite wheel bearings he installed at the same time or something




Anyway, if you don't believe in synthetics thats fine, I could care less honestly.
But theres no way I'm not gonna try to stop you from polluting others minds with your old fashioned "rotary phones are safer" mentality.

Yeah, what he said.

[DMG]

thats almost as good as the guy saying he went from 8mpg to 16mpg from using grafitte wheel bearings, dyno's do not produce real world results in a controlled environment with a fan blowing hurricane force winds through the radiator...synthet6ics obviously have advantages but lets get real and use regular service intervals.

there's nothing scientific about maintenance

who actually keeps thier daily drivers longer than it takes to pay them off anyhow? it makes no sense to spend all that extra coin for the next owners benifit..it may even get crashed..so then wheres the gain?

then there's the 4x4 crowd playin in mud and water...so ya just blew all that money cause ya gotta drain it out to get rid of the contaminents.

enviornmental conditions such as extreme heat or cold, heavy towing and racing, dictate the correct wieght of oil that needs to be used...manufacturer recomended ratings are for normal and emmisions conditions that fit the needs of some motorists...I use 30wt delo because it fits the bill for my usage....hmm I just ran out of smart alec comments...maybe more later!

You are kidding right? If not, please do not give advice that will void peoples warranties or damage their vehicles on this forum.

BTW, my 4runner was my daily driver for years and has 230k hard miles on it. Buying a new car as soon as your old one is paid off is a waste of money.

[dan58]

I always ran Mobil 1 in my 4.0. With the 360, it gets changed so often that I run conventional with a quart of Lucas to keep the rockers happy when I'm way off camber.

The only TRUE way to know your oil change intervals is to have the oil analyzed by a lab. For $20, Blackstone Labs will analyze your oil and tell you what your change intervals should be. My intervals on the Cummins are 6800 miles.